„OSTON 

AGUIDEBOOK 

BY EDWIN M* BACON 



NATIONAL 
EDUCATIONAL 
ASSOCIATION 

1903 



GINN & COMPANY 




liook ■ /?J^3_ 



j'ki:si:NTi:i) ijy 



O 



■^ 



jz 



BOSTON 
A GUIDE BOOK 



By EDWIN M.' BACON 



Prepared for the Convention of the National Educational 

Association, July 6-io, 1903, under the Direction of 

Edwin D. Mead, Frank Foxcroft, and George 

P. Morris, the Committee on Guide 

Books appointed by the Local 

Executive Committee 







GINN & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS 

29 BEACON STREET, BOSTON 

C^e 9lt|)cntnim press 

1903 



Copyright, 1903 
By Ginn & Company 



GINN y-CoMPANY 

CtifTlttaianiraPpfis 




BQSrdNlNeWYoRICCHKXX) 

lC)NDONfSANFRANCISC3 

An^NlA-DMiAS 

OOUJMBUS 



ALL RIGHTS KESEKVED 



Gift 
Miss Frances S.Hay 
juty 18,1931 



F73 

• 5 



(Tf- 



CONTENTS 



Introductory 


V 


The Way about Town . . 


V 


Principal Hotels of Boston 


viii 


Theaters in Boston . . . 


ix 


Convenient Churches in Boston 


ix 


I. Modern Boston . . . 


I 


Historical Sketch . . . 


I 


Boston Proper .... 


2 


I. The Central District 


4 


2. The North End . . 


54 


3. The Charlestown District 


6^ 


4. The West End . . 


68 


5. The Back Bay . . . 


74 


6. The South End . . 


92 


7. The Outlying Districts 


94 


East Boston . . . 


94 


South Boston . . . 


95 


Roxbury District . 


95 


West Roxbury Distric 


96 


Dorchester District 


07 


Brighton District . 


97 


n. The Metropolitan Regio 


N 98 


Cambridge and Harvard . 


98 


Brookline 


109 


The Newtons and Weston 


. 116 


Newton and Wellesley 


119 


Natick and Needham . . 


12^ 


The Southern Newtons . 


124 


Waltham 


126 


Watertown 


. 128 


Milton and the Blue Hills 


ic;o 


Quincy 


• IS4 


Dedham 


• IS7 


Winthrop and Revere 


139 



Page 

Chelsea 142 

Somerville, Medford, and 

Maiden 143 

Winchester 145 

HI. Public Parks 146 

Boston City System . . . 146 

Metropolitan System . . . 148 

IV. Day Trips from Bostcin 152 

Lexington and Concord . . 152 

The North Shore . . . . 159 

Lynn 159 

Nahant 159 

Saugus 159 

Marblehead 160 

Salem 160 

Salem Itinerary . . . 161 

Peabody 161 

Danvers 161 

Beverly 161 

Gloucester 161 

Rockport 161 

The South Shore .... 167 

Hingham 167 

Cohasset 167 

Scituate 167 

Marsh field 168 

Duxbury 168 

Kingston 168 

Plymouth 1(18 

V. Excursions and Tours . 171 

VI. Important Points oe 

Interest 175 

Index 177 



PUBLISHERS' NOTE 



The chief merit of any guide is that it brings the history of its subject 
to the present moment. Such has been the intent in the preparation 
of this Uttle book. It is something more than a guide book to Boston : 
it is an historical itinerary, a progress from past to present. Its scope 
embraces, besides the municipality of Boston proper, the various com- 
munities which are comprehended in the term "Greater Boston"; his- 
torical places and literary shrines beyond these Umits, as Salem, 
Plymouth, and Concord; the North Shore and the South Shore of 
Massachusetts Bay. Care has been taken to provide the visitor with 
every possible aid to the convenient and comfortable exploration of 
the territory treated. Diagrams and trip maps are scattered through 
the pages ; the typographical arrangement, with the use of varied types 
to emphasize places, points, and objects, is designed to make the mate- 
rial available for quick reference ; the text is profusely illustrated ; and 
at the back of the book are a series of plate maps, printed in colors to 
render them the more distinct in detail. In the mechanical execution 
the publishers have endeavored to present a tasteful book, in shape and 
appearance convenient and attractive. It is intended in all respects to 
be the standard Boston Guide Book. 

Among the distinctive and superior features of this guide are the 
following : 

1. The material is original and has been obtained by reference to 
original sources and documents. For this reason this guide is espe- 
cially authoritative and trustworthy. 

2. The eight pages of color maps at the back of the book, and the 
numerous diagram maps inserted in the text, provide unusually adequate 
map material, at once convenient and exhaustive. Those who are 
accustomed to spread out in the wind the large folder maps commonly 
to be found in guide books of this character will doubtless appreciate 
the superiority of these small sectional maps and diagrams. 

3. In other respects the guide is made most convenient. A helpful 
table of contents, the logical arrangement of the material, the running 
titles, and above all a complete alphabetical index, attain this end to an 
admirable degree. Strangers will find the section entitled " The Way 
About Town " (pp. v to viii) particularly valuable. 



INTRODUCTORY 



THE WAY ABOUr TOWN 




' The stranger visiting Boston for the first time will 
find the city's reputation of being exceedingly intricate 
and tortuous to be deserved. But he may quickly 
"orient" himself and get a general idea of the direc- 
tions of the streets and of the ways of reaching desired 
points, if he will grasp at the outset three important 
facts, as follows : 

I. The well-worn term "The Hub" applies to down- 
town Boston in no mere fanciful sense. Roughly, the 
streets of this confusing district form a sort of wheel. The hub of the wheel, 
however, is not one fixed point, for the streets radiate from several squares 
lying between the State House on Beacon Hill and the Old State House on 
State Street. Plates II and III at the back of the book will show at a glance 
tliat the figure of the wheel applies with sufficient exactness to warrant its use. 
In fact the stranger will save himself many steps and much time by ascertaining 
at once the names and directions of a few main thoroughfares, among them 
State Street, Milk Street, Washington Street, Tremont Street, Beacon Street, 
Summer Street, Hanover Street, and Atlantic Avenue. 




II. The Back Bay District is arranged chiefly in the form of a rectangle, 

its eastern border united to the Central District described above at the Public 
Garden. The accompanying diagram indicates its general form, and points out 



VI THE \VAY ABOUT TOWN 

tlie principal connections with down-town Boston. For details of the Back Bay 
District, see Plate I at the back of the book. 

III. There are in Boston several important points of arrival or departure 
in which all routes center. The visitor cannot go far astray if he makes him- 
self familiar with these few landmarks. The most essential are the following; 

Copley Square. Through this square, Boylston Street, running nearly east 
and west, is the thoroughfare for trolley cars : cast-boioid^ passing through 
the Subway, to connections with the elevated trains (at Boylston Street or Park 
Street stations) for Charlestown and all the northern suburbs, as well as to the 
North Station, and (by Atlantic Avenue circuit) the various ferries, steamer 
wharves (for harbor and coastwise points), and the South Station; also east- 
bound cars which, avoiding the Subway, run to the West End and to Atlantic 
Avenue and the South Station through the business district ; and jvesi-bouiid, to 
Brookline, Brighton, Newton, Natick, Cambridge, Somerville (Spring Hill), 
ArHngton, Watertown, and Waltham. Huntington Avenue, diverging to the 
southwest from Boylston Street at this square, is the artery for cars to Dorches- 
ter, Jamaica Plain, Forest Hills, Milton, Neponset, and Quincy, as well as an 
alternative route for some of the other suburbs reached by Boylston Street. 
Trinity Place, to the south of the square, leads direct to the New York Central 
Trinity Place station (one block), where all outgoing trains stop, and at Hunt- 
ington Avenue and Irvington Street (one block southwest of the square) is the 
Huntington Avenue station of the same line, where all inward-bound trains stop. 
Dartmouth Street leads to the Back Bay station of the New York, New Haven 
& Hartford Railroad (one block south of the square), the stopping place for all 
trains in both directions. 

In or about Copley Square are grouped many important buildings, institutions, 
churches, and hotels. 

The Intersection of Washington, Summer, and Winter Streets, in the 
middle of the down-town business quarter. Y'ashington Street is not only the 
great artery of retail traffic but it is the main highway of travel north and 
south through the older part of the city. Winter Street is but one block long 
and connects with Tremont Street at the Park Street station of the Subway ; 
Summer Street is practically a continuation of it eastward to the South Station 
and Ihs water. 

On Washington Street south-bound surface cars may be taken for Charlestown, 
East Boston and Chelsea Ferries, East Cambridge, the North Station, and the 
West End. South-bound cars for South Boston, Dorchester, Milton, Neponset, 
and various sections of the Roxbury and West Roxbury districts may be taken 
either at the corner or just below on Summer Street. (The railway company's 
starter on the corner will give all information needed.) 

From this center it is but two blocks on Washington Street, north, to the Old 
South Meetinghouse ; two blocks farther to the Old State House, at the head of 
State Street. It is in proximity to the theater quarter and is near a nest of 
hotels. 

Park Street, also in the down-town business quarter. Here are the cen- 
tral stations of the Subway at the head of the Common. At the head of the 
short street (a single block in length) is the State House; at its foot is the 



THE WAY ABOUT TOWN 



Vll 



thoroughfare of Tremont Street, running south and north, from which cross 
streets at irregular intervals lead easterly to various parts of the general business 
districts. 

ScoUay Square, at the junction of Tremont and Court streets, Cornhill, 
and Tremont Row. A central point from which the northern parts of the city 
are reached. Here cars for the North Station and the northern suburbs are 
taken in the Subway. Surface cars cross the northern end of the square and 
pass down Hanover Street, some bound for the North Station, others for ferries. 
State Street is a block east of this square. 

The North Station, Causeway Street. This is occupied by the several 
divisions of the Boston & Maine Railroad system, whence trains are taken for 
all points north, east, and west. 

The South Station, Dewey 
Square. Occupied by the New 
York, New Haven & Hartford 
and the New York Central rail- 
roads, whence trains are taken 
for the south and west. 

General Information. Time 
tables and details of routes 
of the many and various 
trolley lines in the city, and 
connections with other lines, 
are issued by the Boston 
Elevated Railway Company. 
The several railroad com- 
panies also furnish elaborate 
information in illustrated 

folders and other forms as , ^ 

to points of interest in New 

England along their lines reached from Boston. These can be obtained 
by the visitor at the down-town railroad offices. At the railroad stations 
are Information Bureaus, at which the stranger should freely apply for 
any directions desired. When about the city or on street cars similar 
application may be made with confidence to policemen and conductors. 
The politeness of these officers is proverbial. 




^,m 



Viil HOTELS 



PRINCIPAL HOTELS OF BOSTON i 

Adams House, 553 Washington, near Boylston Street, En. plan. Rooms, ^1.50 

to $4 ; with bath, $^2.50 to ;?;5. 
American House, Hanover, near Elm Street, Eu. Rooms, ^1.50; for two 

parsons in one room, ^2. 
Bellevue, Beacon, near Somerset Street, Eu. Rooms, ^1.50 upward; with 

teth, S3 upward. 
Berkeley, Boylston and Berkeley streets, Am. and Eu. Am., Sj-50- Eu., 

rooms, $1.^,0 upward. 
Boston T.wern, Washington, near Bromfield Street, Eu. Rooms, $1 upward. 
Brunswick, Boylston and Clarendon streets, Am. and Eu. Am., ^4 upward; 

Eu., rooms, $1.50 upward. 
Castle Square, Tremont and Chandler streets, Eu, Rooms, ^i upward. 
Cecil, Washington, near Boylston Street, Eu. Rooms, ^i upward. 
Clarendon, Tremont, near Clarendon Street, Eu. Rooms, $>i upward. 
Clark's, Washington, near Boylston Street, Eu. Rooms, $>i upward. 
Copley Square, Huntington Avenue and Exeter Street, Eu. Rooms, Si 

upward. 
Crawford House, Court and Brattle streets, Eu. Rooms, Si- For two per- 
sons in one room, $2. 
Essex, Dewey Square, Eu. Rooms, Si-5o upward. 
Langham, Washington and Worcester streets. Am. and Eu. Am., S2 upward; 

Eu., rooms. Si upward. 
Lenox, Boylston and Exeter streets, Eu. Rooms, Si-So upward. 
Norfolk House, Eliot Square, Roxbury District, Am. S2.50 upward. 
Nottingham, Huntington Avenue and Blagden Street, Eu. Rooms, Si 

upward. 
Oxford, Huntington Avenue, opposite Exeter Street, Am. and Eu. Am,, S2. 50 

upward; Eu., rooms. Si upward. 
Parker House, School and Tremont streets, Eu. Rooms, Si-5o upward. 
Plaza, Columbus Avenue and Holyoke Street, Eu. Rooms, Si- For two 

persons in one room. Si -50. 
Quincy House, Brattla Street and Brattle Square, Am. and Eu. Am., S3 

upward; Eu., Si upward. 
Revere House, Bowdoin Square, Eu. Rooms, Si upward. 
Reynolds, Boylston, near Washington Street, Eu. Rooms, Si upward; with 

bath, S2 upward. 
Savoy, Washington, near Essex Street, Eu. Rooms and bath. Si -So upward. 
Somerset, Commonwealth Avenue and Charlesgate East, Eu. Rooms, S2.50 

upward. 
Thorndike, Boylston and Church streets, Eu. Rooms, Si upward. 
TouRAiNE, Boylston and Tremont streets, Eu. Rooms, S3 to $6 single; S4 to 

$S double. 
United States Hotel, Beach, Lincoln, and Kingston streets. Am. and Eu. 

Am., S2.50 upward; Eu., rooms, Si- 
Vendome, 270 Commonwealth Avenue, corner of Dartmouth Street, Am. Ss 

upward, 
Victoria, Newbury and Dartmouth streets, Eu. Rooms, S2 upward. 
Westminster, Trinity Place, just out of Copley Square, Eu. Rooms, Si-5o 

upward. 
Young's Hotel, Court Street and Court Square, Eu. Rooms, Si. 50 upward. 



Eu., European plan; Am., American plan. 



CON VKNI ENT CHURCH KS 



THEATERS IN BOSTON 



Boston Theater, Washington, near West Street. 

BowDOiN Square, Court, near Chardon Street. 

Castle Square, Tremont and Chandler streets. 

Colonial, Boylston, near Tremont Street. 

Columbia, Washington and Motte streets. 

Grand Opera House, Washington, south of Dover Street. 

HoLLis Street, Holhs, between Washington and Tremont streets. 

Keith's, Washington, near West Street; entrance also on Tremont Street. 

Majestic, Tremont, near Boylston Street. 

Music Hall, Winter Street and Hamilton Place. 

Park, Washington, near Boylston Street. 

Tremont, Tremont, near Mason Street. 

The historic Boston Museum closed finally on the evening of June i, 1903, 
after a long career identified with many prominent actors. 

A new theater, to be called the Globe, is nearly completed on Washington 
Street, near Kneeland, and will open in September, 1903. 

There are also in Boston a number of theaters devoted to vaudeville and 
burlesque, duly advertised in the daily papers. 



CONVENIENT CHURCHES 

Arlington Street Church, Congregational Unitarian, Arlington, corner of 

Boylston Street, Back Bay. 
Barnard Memorial, Congregational Unitarian, 10 Warrenton Street 
Berkeley Temple, Congregational Trinitarian, Berkeley Street, corner of 

Warren Avenue, South End. 
Boston Society of the New Jerusalem Church, New Church (Sweden- 

borgian), 136 Bowdoin Street, West End. 
Bromfield Street Methodist Episcopal Church, Bromfield Street. 
Bulfinch Place Church, Congregational Unitarian, Bulfinch Place, West 

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Roman Catholic, Washington, corner of 
Maiden Street, South End. ^ xt i 

Central Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Berkeley, corner of Newbury 
Street, Back Bay. ^ , xr , 

Christ Church, Protestant Episcopal, Salem Street, North End. 

Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Roman Cathohc, 1545 Ire- 
mont Street, Roxbury District. 

Church of the Advent. Protestant Episcopal, 30 Brimmer Street. 

Church of the Disciples, Congregational Unitarian, ^^ est Brookline, cor- 
ner of Warren Avenue, South End. ^ , ,. ou 

Church of the Holy Trinity (German), Roman Catholic, 140 Shawmut 
Avenue, South End. ,, , ,. ,t • \ 

Church of the Immaculate Conception, Roman Cathohc, Harrison Ave- 
nue, corner of East Concord Street, South End. 

Church of the Messiah, Protestant Episcopal, St. Stephen, corner ot 
Gainsborough Street, Back Bay. r a^ ^ 

Clarendon Street Church, Baptist, Clarendon, corner of Montgomery 
Street, South End. i, , i, 

Emmanuel Church, Protestant Episcopal, 15 Newbury Street, Back Bay. 



CONVENIENT CHURCHES 



Every Day (The) Church, Universalist, 397 Shawmut Avenue, South End. 
First Baptist Church, Clarendon Street, corner of Commonwealth Avenue, 

Back Bay. 
First Church, Methodist Episcopal, Temple Street, West End. 
First Church in Boston, Congregational Unitarian, Marlborough, corner 

of Berkeley Street, Back Bay. 
First Church of Christ, Scientist, Falmouth, corner of Norway Street, 

Back Bay. 
First Parish in Dorchester, Congregational Unitarian, Meetinghouse Hill, 

Dorchester District. 
First Presbyterian Church, Berkeley Street, corner of Columbus Avenue, 

South End. 
First Religious Society, Congregational Unitarian, Eliot Square, Rox- 

bury District. 
First Spiritual Temple, Spiritualist, Newbury, corner of Exeter Street, 

Back Bay. 
Friends' Meeting House, 210 Townsend Street, Roxbury District. 
King's Chapel, Congregational Unitarian, Tremont, corner of School Street. 
Mt. Vernon Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Beacon, corner of Massa- 
chusetts Avenue, Back Bay. 
Notre Dame des Victoires (French), Roman Catholic, 25 Isabella Street, 

South End. 
Ohabei Sholom, Jewish, 11 Union Park Street, South End. 
Old South Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Dartmouth, corner of Boyl- 

ston Street, Back Bay. 
Park Street Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Tremont, corner of Park 

Street. 
Parker Memorial, Congregational Unitarian, 11 Appleton Street, South End. 
People's Temple, Methodist Episcopal, Columbus Avenue, corner of Berkeley 

Street, South End. 
Ruggles Street Baptist Church, 163 Ruggles Street, Roxbury District. 
St. John the Evangelist, Protestant Episcopal, Bowdoin Street, West End. 
St. Leonard's of Port Morris (Italian), Roman Catholic, Prince Street, 

North End. 
St. Paul's Church, Protestant Episcopal, 136 Tremont Street. 
Second Church, Congregational Unitarian, Copley Square, Back Bay. 
Second Univers.a.list Church, Columbus Avenue, corner of Clarendon 

Street, South End. 
Shawmut Church, Congregational Trinitarian, Tremont, corner of West 

Brookline Street, South End. 
South Congregational Church, Congregational Unitarian, Newbury, cor- 
ner of Exeter Street, Back Bay. 
Tabernacle Baptist Church, Bowdoin Square, West End. 
Temple Adath Israel, Jewish, Columbus Avenue, corner of Northampton 

Street. 
Tremont Street Methodist Episcopal Church, Tremont, corner of 

West Concord Street, South End. 
Tremont Temple, Baptist, 82 Tremont Street. 
Trinity Church, Protestant Episcopal. Copley Square, Back Bay. 
Union Church, Congregational Trinitarian, 485 Columbus Avenue, South End. 
Warren Avenue Church, Baptist, Warren Avenue, corner of West Canton 

Street. 



BOSTON: A GUIDE BOOK 



I. MODERN BOSTON 



HISTORICAL SKETCH 




a 



HE town of Boston was founded in 1630 by English 
colonists sent out by the " Governor and Company of 
the Massachusetts Bay in New England," under the 
lead of John Winthrop, the second governor of the Bay 
Colony, who arrived at Salem in June of that year 
with the charter of 1629. It originated in an order 
passed by the Court of Assistants sitting in the " Gov- 
ernor's House" in Charlestown, on the opposite side of 
the Charles River, first selected as their place of settle- 
ment. This order was adopted September 17 (7 O. S.), 
and established three towns at once by the simple 
dictum, " that Trimountane shalbe called Boston ; Mat- 
tapan, Dorchester; & ye towne vpon Charles Ryver, Waterton." " Tri- 
mountane " consisted of a peninsula with three hills, the highest (the 
(5TfS pi'^sent Beacon Hill), as seen from Charlestown, presenting three distinct 
^^ peaks. Hence this name, given it by the colonists from Endicott's com- 

pany at Salem, who had preceded the Winthrop colonists in the Charles- 
town settlement. The Indian name was '' Shawmutt," or " Shaumut," 
which signified, according to some authorities, '* Living Waters," but according 
to others, " Where there is going by boat," or " Near the neck." The name of 
Boston was selected in recognition of the chief men of the company, who had 
come from Boston in England, and particularly Isaac Johnson, " the greatest 
furtherer of the Colony," who died at Charlestown on the day of the naming. 
The peninsula was chosen for the chief settlement primarily because of its 
springs, the colonists at Charlestown suffering disastrously from the use of brack- 
ish water. The Rev. William Blaxton, the pioneer white settler on the penin- 
sula (coming about 1625), then living alone in his cottage on the highest hill 
slope, " came and acquainted the governor of an excellent spring there, withal 
inviting him and soliciting him thither." 

The three-hilled peninsula originally contained only about 783 acres, cut 
into by deep coves, estuaries, inlets, and creeks. It faced the harbor, at the west 
end of Massachusetts Bay, into which empty the Charles and Mystic rivers. It 
was paar-shaped, a little more than a mile wide at its broadest, and less than 
three miles long, the stem, or neck, connecting it with the mainland (at what 
became Roxbury) a mile in length, and so low and narrow that parts were not 

I 



2 BOSTON J^ROPER 

infrequently overflowed by the tides. By the reclamation of the broad marshes 
and Hats from time to time, and the filling of the great coves, the original area 
of 783 acres has been expanded to 1801 acres; and where it was the narrowest 
it is now the widest. Additional territory has been acquired by the development 
of East Boston and South Boston, and by the annexation of adjoining cities 
and towns. Thus the area of the city has become more than thirty times as 
large as that of the peninsula on which the town was built. Its bounds now 

embrace 27,251 acres, or 42.6 square 
miles. Its extreme length, from north 
to south, is eleven miles, and its ex- 
treme breadth, from east to west, nine 
miles. While the Colonial town was 
confined to the little peninsula, its 
jurisdiction at first extended over a 
large territory, which embraced the 
present cities and towns of Chelsea 
and Revere on the north, and Brook- 
line, Quincy, Braintree, and Ran- 
dolph on the west and south. So 
there was quite a respectable "Greater 
Boston" in those old first days. The 
metropolitan proportions continued 
till 1640, and were not entirely reduced 
to the limits of the peninsula and 
certain harbor islands till 1739. 

East Boston is comprised in two 
harbor islands: Noddle's Island, 
which was "layd to Boston" in 1637, 
and Breed's (earlier Hog) Island, 
annexed in 1635. South Boston was 
formerly Dorchester Neck, a part of 
the town of Dorchester, annexed in 
1804. The city of Roxbury (named as a tovm October 8, 1630) was annexed 
in 1868; the town of Dorchester (named in 1630 in the order naming Boston), 
in 1870; and in 1874 the city of Charlestown (founded as a town July 4, 1629), 
the town of Brighton (incorporated 1807), and the town of West Roxbury 
(incorporated 1851) were by one act added. These annexed municipalities 
retain their names with the term "District" added to each. Boston remained 
under town government, with a board of selectmen, till 1822. It was incorpo- 
rated a city, February 23 of that year, after several ineffectual attempts to change 
the system. 



1: 


\^r^" ^-^/?-eo/2 


Wk ^ \\ J 


^v- 




W L D M 


l\ 


bostonJ 1 

gj^ BOSTON / ^ ' 

1:7 /■ ., 


^ 1 


w 






NEW-Wir BOSTON ' 

F 




/ii 



Ui.u ANU New 1><i>T(in 



BOSTON PROPER 

The term "Boston Proper" i.s customarily used to designate the 
original city exclusive of the annexed parts ; but for the purposes 
of this Guide we comprehend in the term the entire municipality, as 



SECTIONS OF THE CITY 3 

distinguished from the alHed cities and towns, closely identified with it 
in business and social relations, but yet independent political corpora- 
tions. Together with the municipality these allied cities and towns 
constitute what is colloquially known as Greater Boston. This metro- 
politan community is officially recognized at present only in two state 
departments : the Metropolitan Parks and the consolidated Metropoli- 
tan Water and Sewerage Departments ; and in part in the Boston Postal 
District established by the Post Office Department. Of these several 
districts the Metropolitan Parks District is the largest, comprising Bos- 
ton and thirty-eight cities and towns within a radius of twelve miles 
from the City Hall, having a combined population of 1,168,950 (cen- 
sus, 1900). The Metropolitan Water District includes seventeen cities 
and towns ; the Metropolitan Sewerage District, twenty-four ; and the 
Boston Postal District, ten. The " Boston Basin," how^ever, is regarded 
as constituting the true bounds of " Greater Boston." This includes a 
territory of some fifteen miles in width, lying between the bay on the east, 
the range of Blue Hills on the south, and the ridges of the WeUington 
Hills sweeping from Waltham on the w^est around toward Cape Ann on 
the north. It now embraces thirty-six cities and towns, with a popula- 
tion (1900) of 1,164,171. The population of Boston alone is 560,892. 

The present city is divided by custom long established into several 
distinct sections. These are : 

The Central District or General Business Quarter 

The North End 

The West End 

The South End 

The Back Bay Quarter 

The Brighton District, on the west side 

The Roxbury District, on the south 

The West Roxbury District, on the southwest 

The Dorchester District, on the southeast 

The Charlestown District, on the north 

East Boston on its two islands, on the northeast 

South Boston projecting into the harbor, on the east 

The Business Quarters now occupy not only the Central District, but 
extend over most of the North End, parts of the West End and of 
the South End, and penetrate even the Back Bay Quarter, laid out in 
comparatively modern times (1860-1886), where the bay had been, as 
the fairest residential quarter of the city and the place for its finest 
architectural monuments. 



BOSTON PROPER 



I. The Central District 







-'i 



The Central District (see Plates II and III) 
is of first interest to the visitor, for here are 
most of the older historic landmarks. This 
small quarter of the present city, together with 
the North End, embraces that part of the 
original peninsula to which the historic town — 
Colonial, Provincial, and Revolutionary Boston 
— was practically confined. The town 
of 1630 was begun along the irregular 
water front, the principal houses being 
placed round about the upper part of 
what is now State Street, modern Bos- 
ton's financial center, and on or near 
the neighboring Dock Square, back of 
the present Faneuil Hall, where was the 
first Town Dock, occupying nearly all of 
the present North Market Street, in the 
" Great Cove." The square originally 
at the head of State Street (first Market, 
then King Street), in the middle of which 
now stands the Old State House, was the first center of town life. At 
about this point, accordingly, our explorations naturally begin. 

State Street Square and the Old State House. Our starting place is 
the present State-Street Square, which the Old State House faces. 
This itself is one of the most notable historic spots in Boston. For 
the first quarter-century of Colony life the entire square, including the 
space occupied by the Old State House, was the public marketstead. 
Thursday was market day, — the day also of the "Thursday Lecture" 
by the ministers. Early (1648) semiannual fairs here, in June and 
October, were instituted, each holding a market for two or three days. 
Here were first inflicted the drastic punishments of offenders against 
the rigorous laws, and here unorthodox literature was burned. 

The Stocks, the Whipping Post, and the Pillory were earliest placed 
here. When the town was a half-century old a Cage, for the confine- 
ment and exposure of violators of the rigid Sunday laws, was added to 
these penal instruments. In the Revolutionary period the Stocks stood 
near the northeast corner of the Old State House, with the Whipping 
Post hard by ; while the Pillory when used was set in the middle of the 
square between the present Congress Street (first Leverett's Lane) on 
the south side and Exchange Street (first Shrimpton's Lane, later Royal 



STATE STRP:ET S(,)UARK 5 

Exchange Lane) on the north. The Whipping Post hngered here till 
the opening of the nineteenth century. 

This square continued to be the gathering place of the populace from 
the Colonial through the Province period on occasion of momentous 
events. It was the rendezvous of the people in the " bloodless revolu- 
tion " of April, 1689, when the government of Andros was overthrown. 
In the Stamp Act excitement of 1765 a stamp fixed upon a pole was 
solemnly brought here by a representative of the " Sons of Liberty " 
and fastened into the town Stocks, after which it was publicly burned 
by the "executioner.'*' On the evening of March 5, 1770, the so-called 
Boston Massacre, the fatal collision between the populace and the sol- 
diery, occurred here, the site being indicated by a tablet on the building 
at the Exchange Street corner, northwest. 

On the south side of the original marketstead, by the present Devon- 
shire Street (first Pudding Lane), where now is the modern Brazer's 
Building (27 State Street), was the first meetinghouse, a rude structure 
of mud walls and thatched roof. This also served through its existence 
of eight years for Colonial purposes, as the carved inscription above the 
entrance of Brazer's Building relates : 

Site of the First Meetinghouse in Boston, built a.d. 1632. 
Preachers: John Wilson, John Eliot, John Cotton. 
Used before 1640 for town meetings and for 
sessions of the General Court of the Colony. 

At the upper end of this side of the marketstead, extending to Wash- 
ington Street (first The High Street), were the house and garden lot of 
Captain Robert Keayne, charter member and first commander of the first 
"Military Company of the Massachusetts" (founded 1637, chartered 
163S), from which developed the still flourishing "Ancient and Honor- 
able Artillery Company," the oldest military organization in the country. 
A century later, on the Washington Street corner, was Daniel Henchman's 
bookshop, in which Henry Knox, afterward the Revolutionary general 
and W^ashington's friend, learned his trade and ultimately succeeded to 
the business. When the British regulars were quartered on the town, 
in 1 768-1 770, the Main Guardhouse was on this side, directly opposite 
the south door of the Old State House, with the two fieldpieces pointed 
toward this entrance. 

On the w^est side of the marketstead, — the present Washington 
Street, — nearly opposite Captain Keayne's lot, was the second meet- 
inghouse, built in 1640, the site now" occupied by the Rogers Building 
(209 Washington Street). This was used for all civic puiposes, as well 
as religious, through eighteen years. 



CENTRAL DISTRICT 
It stood till ,;„, when it was destroyed in the "Great Fir." n^. ■ , 

Meetinghouse" „.,,ic\ .e,nai„ed fo^allst a ^ntury '" '""'' "'" "" ^ ""^ 

dens. His name was perpetuated in 
tt^i/son s Lane, which was cut through 
his garden plot in 1640, and which i, 
turn was absorbed in the widened 
Devonshire Street. 

Looking again across to the south 
side, we see the site of Governor Win- 
throp's first house, covered by the ex- 
pansive Exchange Building (53) n 
stood on or close to the ground occu- 
pied l)y the entrance hall of the build- 
ing- 

This was the governor's town house for ' 
thirteen years from the settlement. Thence i 
he removed to his last Boston home, the j 

Meetinghouse. The A'rsi Genem/ rTTZ ^^'''^" '^''^'^ "'-^* *« *'^^ O'd South t 
in America, October 10 x to " C.^--/-the incipient Legislature - ever held 

e.ns were .hen called r.lirdft \ ' k"^"'""'^' " °'-^'™'-^'' ^ '- 
"f-CJrapes- door, the lion ^,d 'u' '"""' ''''°"' ""= "unch. 

and .signs of To i'es ,L h H K ''"'"°"' *'"' °'^" ""'•''™'' °f ™>='l'y 

wue burned nalea ^onfi^e"'""'"" °' '""^P-^--- '" J-y. .776, 




DooKWAv, Exchange Bni 



STATE STREET SQUARE 



The Bunch-of-G rapes was a famous tavern of its time. In 1750 Captain 
^""rancis Goelet, from England, on a commercial visit to the town, recorded in 
lis diary that it was " noted for the best punch house in Boston, resorted to by 
nost of the gent" merch's and masters vessels." After the British evacuation, 
vhen Washington spent ten days in Boston, he and his officers were entertained 
lere at an " elegant dinner " as part of the official ceremonies of the occasion, 
rhe tavern was especially distinguished as the place where in March, 1786, the 
froup of Continental army officers, 
mder the inspiration of General Rufus 
Putnam of Rutland (cousin of General 
srael Putnam), organized the Ohio 
Zompany which settled Ohio, begin- 
ling at Marietta. 

State Street, when King Street, 
practically ended at Kilby Street on 
he south side and Merchants Row on 
;:he north, till the reclamation of the 
(iats beyond, high-water mark being 
■)riginally at these points. " Mackerel 
:Lane" was a narrow passage by the 
r.hore till after the " Great Fire of 1 760," 
vhich destroyed much property in the 
ncinity. Then it was widened and 
lamed Kilby Street in recognition of 
;he generous aid which the sufferers 
Dy the fire had received from Chris- 
:opher Kilby, a wealthy Boston mer- 
:hant, long resident in London as the 
igent for the town and colony, but 
hen living in New York. 

Nearly opposite the Bunch-of- 
Grapes, at about the present No. 

56, stood the British Coffee House, where the British officers principally 
resorted. It was here in 1769 that James Otis was assaulted by John 
Robinson, one of the royal commissioners of customs, upon whom the 
fiery orator had passed some severe strictures, and thus through a deep 
:ut on his head this brilliant intellect was shattered. 

At the east corner of Exchange Street was the Royal Customhouse, 
where the attack upon its sentinel by the little mob of men and boys, 
with a fusillade of street snow and ice, and taunting shouts, led to the 
Massacre of 1770. The opposite, or west, corner was occupied by the 
Royal Exchange Tavern, dating from the early eighteenth century, another 
resort of the British officers stationed in town. It was here in 1727 that 
occurred the altercation which resulted in the First Duel fought in 
Boston (on the Common), when Benjamin Woodbridge was killed by 




Old State Hou 



8 



CENTRAL DISTRICT 



Henry Phillips, both young men well connected with the " gentry " of 
the town, the latter related by marriage to Peter Faneuil, the giver 
of Faneuil Hall. Woodbridge's grave is in the Cranary Burying Ground, 
and can be seen close by the sidewalk fence. 

It was this grave which inspired those tender passages in the " Autocrat of 
the Breakfast Table" describing " My First Walk with the Schoolmistress." 

The Old State House dates from 174S. Its outer walls, however, are 
older, being those of its predecessor, the second Town and Province 
House, built in 1712-1713. That house was destroyed by fire, all but 
these walls, in 1747, sharing very nearly the fate of its predecessor, the 
first Town House and colonial building, which went down in the " Great 
Fire" of 171 1 with the second meetinghouse and neighboring buildings 
and dwellings. It occupies the identical site in the middle of the market- 
stead chosen for the first Town House in 1657. It has served as Town 

House, Court House, 
Province Court House, 
State House, and City 
Hall. As the Province 
Court House, identified 
with the succession of 
p r e r e V o 1 u t i o n a r y 
events in Boston, it has 
a special distinction 
among the historical 
buildings of the coun- 
try. After its abandon- 
ment for civic uses it 
suffered many vicissi- 
tudes and indignities, being ruthlessly refashioned, made over, and 
patched for business purposes, that the city which owns it might wrest 
the largest possible rentals from it; and in the year 1881 its removal 
was seriously threatened, to make way for street improvements. Then, 
through the well-directed efforts of a number of worthy citizens, its 
preservation was secured, and in 1882 the historic structure was restored 
to much the appearance which it bore in Provincial days. 

In both exterior and interior the original architecture is in large part 
reproduced. The balcony of the second story has the window of twisted 
crown glass, out of which have looked all the later royal governors of 
the Province and the early governors of the Commonwealth. The win- 
dows of the upper stories are modeled upon the small-paned windows 
of Colonial days. Within, the main halls have the same floor and 




Council Chamber, Old State House 



OLD STATE IIOUSK 




ceilings, and on three sides the same walls that they had in 1748. The 
eastern room on the second floor, with its outlook down State Street, 
was the Council Chamber, where the royal governors and the council 
sat. The western room was the Court Chamber. Between the two 
was the Hall of the Representatives. The King's arms, which were in 
the Council Chamber before the Revolution, were removed by Loyalists 
and sent to St. John, New Brunswick, where they now decorate a church. 
The carved and gilded arms of the Colony (handiwork of a Boston arti- 
san, Moses Deshon), displayed above 
the door of the Representatives Hall 
after i 750, disappeared with the Revo- ■ ' " '""" 

lution. The Wooden Codfish, "emblem 
of the staple of commodities of the 
Colony and the Province," which 
hung from the ceiling of this chamber 
through much of the Province period, 
is reproduced in the more artistic 
figure (embellished by Walter M. 
Brackett, the master painter of fish 
and game) that now hangs in the 
Representatives Hall of the present 
State House. 

The restored rooms above the base- 
ment are open for public exhibition, 
with the rare collection of antiquities 
relating to the early history of the 
Colony and Province, as well as the 
State and the Town, brought together 
by the Bostonian Society, to Avhose 

control these rooms passed, through lease by the city, upon the resto- 
ration of the building. The collection embraces a rich variety of 
interesting relics : historical manuscripts and papers ; quaint paintings, 
engravings, and prints ; numerous portraits of old worthies ; and many 
photographs illustrating Boston in various periods. In the Council 
Chamber is the old table formerly used by the royal governors and 
councillors. 




Franklin Press, Old State House 



The Bostonian Society, established here, was incorporated in iSSi "to pro- 
mote the study of the history of Boston, and the preservation of its antiquities"; 
and in it was merged the Antiquarian Club, organized in 1879 especially for the 
promotion of historical research, whose members had been most influential in the 
campaign for the preservation of this building. It has rendered excellent service 
in the identification of historic sites and in verifying liistorical records. 



lo DOWN STATE STREET 

Deep down below the basement of the building is now the State 
Street station of the East Boston Subway, or tunnel for electric cars, 
which runs directly under the historic structure to Scollay Square, 
where it is to join the older Boston Subway. 

The first Town House, completed in 1659, was provided for by the will of 
Captain Kcaync, the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company's chief founder 
(the longest will on record, comprising 15S folio pages in the testator's own 
hand, though disposing of only ^4000). Captain Keayne left ;i^30o for the pur- 
pose, and to this sum was added ^100 more, raised by subscription among the 
townspeople, paid largely in provisions, merchandise, and labor. It was a small 
"comely building" of wood, set upon twenty pillars, overhanging the pillars 
" three feet all around," and topped by two tall slender turrets. The place 
inclosed by the pillars was a free public market, and an exchange, or " walk for 
the merchants." 

It contained the beginnings of the /irst public library in America, 
for which provision was made in Captain Keayne's will. Portions of this 
library were saved from the fire of 171 1 which destroyed the building; but 
these probably perished later in the burning of the second Town and Province 
House. 

The second house, of brick, completed in 1713, also had an open public 
exchange on the street floor. Surrounding it were thriving booksellers' shops, 
observing which Daniel Neal, visiting the town in 1719, was moved to remark 
that " the Knowledge of Letters flourishes more here than in all the other Eng- 
lish plantations put together ; for in the city of New York there is but one book- 
seller's shop, and in the Plantations of Virginia, Maryland, Carolina, Barbadoes, 
and the Islands, none at all." So, it appears, thus early Boston was the " liter- 
ary center " of the country, a fact calculated to bring almost as great satisfaction 
to the complacent Bostonian as that later-day saying in the "Autocrat" (in 
which this stamp of Bostonian declines to recognize any satire), tliat "Boston 
State-House is the hub of the solar system." 

Down State Street. Following State Street to its end, we shall come 
upon Long Wharf (originally Boston Pier, dating from 1710), where the 
formal landings of the royal governors were made, the main landing 
place of the British soldiers when they came, and the departing place 
at the P2vacuation. At that time it was a long, narrow pier, extending 
out beyond the other wharves, the tide ebbing and flowing beneath the 
stores that lined it. Atla^itic Avenue, the water-front thoroughfare 
that now crosses it, and on which the elevated railway runs, follows 
generally the line of the ancient Barricado, an early harbor defense 
erected in 1673 between the north and south outer points of the " Great 
Cove." It connected the North Battery, where is now Battery Wharf, 
and the South Battery, or " Boston Sconce," at the present Rowe's 
Wharf, where the steamer for Nantasket is taken. It was provided 



FANEUIL HALL AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD 



with openings to allow vessels to pass inside, and so came to be 
generally called the " Out Wharves." Its line is so designated on 
the early maps. 

In the short walk down State Street are passed in succession on 
either side of the way notable modern structures that have almost 
entirely replaced the varied architecture of different periods, which 
before gave this street a peculiar distinction and a certain picturesque- 
ness that is now wanting. The Exchange Building takes the place of 
the first Merchants' Exchange, a dignified building in its day (1842- 
1890), covering a very small part of the ground over which the pres- 
ent structure spreads. The Board of Trade Building, at the east corner 
of Broad Street, is, perhaps, the most attractive in design of the newer 
architecture. At the India Street corner, its massive granite-pillared 
front facing that street, is the United States Custom House (dating from 
1847), in marked contrast with its 
younger neighbors. This occupied 
several years in building, and the 
transportation of the heavy granite 
columns, each weighing about 
forty-two tons, which surround it 
on all sides, was a great feat for 
the time. Its site was the head 
of Long Wharf, and the bowsprits 
of vessels lying there, stretching 
across the street, almost touched 
its eastern side. 

On India Street, a few rods south 
of this specimen of a past architecture, is the modern Chamber of Com- 
merce (built in 1902), also of granite. Viewed from a distance, its 
rounded front, with turreted dormer windows and conical tower, has 
a unique appearance. Opposite it opens Custom House Street, only a 
block in length, where is still standing the Old Custom House, built in 
1810, in which Bancroft, the historian, served as collector of the port 
in 1 838-1 841, and which was the "darksome dungeon" where Haw- 
thorne spent his two years as a customs officer, first as a measurer of 
salt and coal, then as a weigher and ganger. 

Faneuil Hall and its Neighborhood. From lower State Street we can 
pass to Faneuil Hall by way of Commercial Street and the long granite 
Quincy Market House, — the central piece of the great work of the first 
Mayor Josiah Quincy, in 1 82 5-1 826, in the construction of six new 
streets over a sw^eep of flats and docks, — or we may go direct from the 
Old State House through Exchange Street, a walk of a few minutes. 




Custom Hoi'se 



FANEUIL HALL AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD 



Faneuil Hall as now seen is the " Cradle of Liberty " of the Revolu- 
tionary period doubled in width and a story higher. The enlargement 
was made in 1805, under the superintendence of Charles Bulfinch, the 
pioneer Boston architect of enduring fame, whose most characteristic 
work we shall see in the " Bulfinch Front " of the present State House. 
The hall was built in 1 762-1 763, upon the brick walls of the first 
Faneuil Hall, Peter Faneuil's gift to the town in 1742, which was 
consumed, except its walls, in a fire in January, 1762. Bulfinch, in his 
work of 1S05, introduced the galleries resting on Doric columns, and 
the platform with its extended front, with various interior embellish- 
ments. In 1S98 the entire building was reconstructed with fireproof 

material on the original plan, 
iron, steel, and stone being sub- 
stituted for wood and combus- 
tible material. 

Of the fine collection of por- 
traits on the walls many are 
copies, the originals having been 
placed in the Museum of Fine 
Arts for safe-keeping. The great 
historical painting at the back of 
the platform, "Webster's Reply 
to Hayne," by G. P. A. Healy, 
contains one hundred and thirty 
portraits of senators and other 
men of distinction at that time. 
The scene is the old Senate 
Chamber, now the apartment 
of the United States Supreme 
Court. The canvas measures 
sixteen by thirty feet. The por- 
trait of Peter Faneuil, on one 
side of this painting, is a copy 
by Colonel Henry Sargent, from a smaller portrait in the Art Museum, 
and was given to the city by Samuel Parkman, grandfather of the his- 
torian Parkman. It takes the place of a full-length portrait executed 
by order of the town in 1 744, as a " testimony of respect " to the 
donor of the hall, which disappeared, and was probably destroyed, at 
the siege of Boston, — the fate also of portraits of George II, Colonel 
Isaac Barre, and Field Marshal Conway, the last two solicited by the 
town in gratitude for their defense of Americans on the floor of Parlia- 
ment. The full-length Washington, on the other side of the great 




Faneuil Hai.l 



ANCIENT AND HONORABLE ARTILLERV COMl'ANV 13 

painting, is a Gilbert Stuart. It, also, was presented to the town by 
Samuel Parkman, in 1806. Of the portraits elsewhere hung, those of 
Warren, Hancock, Samuel Adams, John Adams, and John Quincy 
Adams are all Copleys. The General Harry Knox and the Commo- 
dore Preble are credited to Stuart. The Abraham Lincoln and Rufus 
Choate are by Ames. The "war governor," John A. Andrew, is by 
William M. Hunt. The others — Robert Treat Paine, Caleb Strong, 
Edward Everett, Admiral Winslow, Wendell Phillips, and Anson Bur- 
lingame — are by various American painters. The ornamental clock 
in the face of the gallery over the main entrance was a gift of Boston 
school children in 1850. The gilded spread eagle was originally on the 
fa9ade of the United States Bank which, erected in 1798, preceded 
the first Merchants' Exchange on State Street. The gilded grass- 
hopper on the cupola of the building, serving as a weather vane, is the 
reconstructed, or rejuvenated, original one of 1742, fashioned from 
sheet copper by the "cunning artificer," "Deacon" Shem Drowne, 
immortalized by Hawthorne in " Drowne's Wooden Image." 

The floors above the public hall have been occupied by the Ancient 
and Honorable Artillery Company for many years. Its armory is a rich 
museum of relics of Colonial, Provincial, and Revolutionary times, 
and is hospitably open to appreciative inspection. Among the treas- 
ured memorials here are the various banners cf the company, the 
oldest being that carried in 1663. Eighteen silk flags reproduce colo- 
nial colors and their various successors. In the London room are 
mementos of the visit of a section of the company to England in the 
summer of 1896, as guests of the Honourable Artillery Company of 
London. On the walls of the main hall are portraits of one hundred 
and fourteen captains of the company. On the street floor of the 
building is the market, which has continued from its establishment 
with the first Faneuil Hall in 1742. John Smibert, the Scotch painter, 
long resident and celebrated in Boston from 1729, was the architect of 
the first building. 

Faneuil Hall was instituted primarily as a market liouse, the inclusion of a 
public town hall in the scheme being an afterthought of the donor. Peter 
Faneuil's offer to provide a suitable building at his own expense upon condition 
only that the town should legalize and maintain it, was at a time of controversy 
over the town market houses then existing. Three had been set up seven years 
before, one close to this site, in Dock Square : one at the North End, in North 
Square ; the third at the then South End, by the south corner of the present 
Boylston and Washington streets. The Dock Square market was the principal 
one, and this had recently been demolished by a mob " disguised as clergymen." 
The contention was over the market system. One faction demanded a return to 



14 FAXEUIL HALL AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD 

the method of service at the home of the townspeople, as before the setting up 
of these market houses ; the others insisted upon the fixed market-house system. 
So high did the feehng run that Faneuil's gift was accepted by the town by the 
narrow margin of seven votes. 

The building was completed in September, 1742. It was only one hundred 
feet in length and forty feet wide. But it was of brick, and substantial. The 
hall, calculated to hold only one thousand persons, was pronounced in the vote 
of the first town meeting held in it as " spacious and beautiful." In the same 
vote it was named Faneuil Hall, " to be at all times hereafter called and known 
by that name," in testimony of the town's gratitude to its giver and to perpetu- 
ate his memory. Then his full-length portrait was ordered for the hall ; and a 
year and a half later the Faneuil arms, "elegantly carved and gilt" by Moses 
Deshon, the same who later carved the Colony seal for the Town House (see 
p. 9), was added at the town's expense. 

The first public gathering in the hall, other than a town meeting, was, sin- 
gularly, to commemorate Faneuil, he having died suddenly, March 3, 1743, 
but a few months after the completion of the building. On this occasion the 
eulogist was John Lovell, master of the Latin School, who in the subsequent 
prerevolutionary controversies was a Loyalist, and at the Evacuation went off to 
Halifax. The Faneuils who succeeded Peter, his nephews, were also Loyalists, 
and left the country with the Evacuation. 

The second Faneuil Hall, embraced in the present structure, was built by the 
town, and the building fund was largely obtained through a lottery authorized by 
the General Court. The first public meeting in this hall was on March 14, 1763, 
when the patriot James Otis was the orator, and by him the hall was dedicated 
to the " Cause of Liberty." Then followed those town meetings of the Revolu- 
tionary period, debating the question of "justifiable resistance," from which the 
hall derived its sobriquet of the "Cradle of American Liberty." In 1766 on 
the news of the Stamp Act repeal the hall was illuminated. In 1768 one of the 
British regiments was quartered here for some weeks. In 1772 the Boston Com- 
mittee of Correspondence, "to state the rights of the colonists" to the world, 
was established here, on that motion of Samuel Adams Avhich Bancroft says 
"contained the whole Revolution." In 1773 the "Little Senate," composed 
of the committees of the several towns, began their conferences with the 
"ever-vigilant" Boston committee, in the selectmen's room. During the siege 
the hall was transformed into a playhouse, under the patronage of a society 
of British officers and Tory ladies, when soldiers were the actors, and a 
local farce, " The Blockade of Boston," by General Burgoyne, was the chief 
attraction. 

Since the Revolution the hall has been the popular meeting place of citizens 
on important and grave occasions, and a host of national leaders, orators, and 
agitators have spoken from its historic rostrum. In 1S25 Webster delivered here 
his memorable eulogy on Adams and Jefferson, in the presence of President 
John Quincy Adams and an audience of exceptional character. Here in 1837 
Wendell Pliillips made his first antislavery speech; in 1845 Charles Sumner first 
publicly appeared in this cause; in 1S46 the antislavery Vigilance Committee 
was formed at a meeting to denounce the return of a fugitive slave; in 1854 the 



HANCOCK TAVERN 



preconcerted signal was given, at a crowded meeting to protest against the 
rendition of Anthony Burns, for the bold but fruitless move on the Court House 
(see p. 19) to effect the escape of this fugitive slave. 

Faneuil Hall is protected by a provision of the city charter forbidding its sale 
or lease. It is never let for money, but is opened to the people upon the request 
of a certain number of citizens, who must agree to comply with the prescribed 
regulations. 

Faneuil Hall occupies made land close to the head of the Old 
Town Dock. The streets around the sides and back of the building 
constitute Faneuil Hall Square. From the south side of this square 
opens Corn Court, which runs in irregular form to Merchants Row. 
Herein was the Corn Market of Colonial times. A landmark of a 
later day, which remained till the present year, was an old inn 
long known as Hancock Tavern. While not so ancient as it was 
assumed to be, nor occupying, as 
alleged, the site of the first tavern 
in the town, it was an interesting 
landmark with rich associations. 
It became the Hancock Tavern when 
John Hancock was made the first 
governor of the Commonwealth, and 
the swing sign displaying his roughly 
painted portrait is still preserved. 
At other periods it was the Brazier 
Inn, kept by Madam Brazier, niece 
of Provincial Lieutenant Governor 
Spencer Phipps (1733), who made 
a specialty of a noonday punch for 
its patrons. In this tavern lodged 
Talleyrand, when exiled from France, 
during his stay in Boston in 1795; 

also, two years later, Louis Philippe; and, in 1796, the exiled 
French priest, John Cheverus, who afterward became the first Roman 
Catholic bishop of Boston. A modern office building is to occupy 
its site. 

East of Corn Court, near the east end of Faneuil Hall, also on land 
reclaimed from the Town Dock, was John Hancock's Store, where he 
advertised for sale " English and India goods, also choice Newcastle 
Coals and Irish Butter, Cheap for Cash." West of Corn Court opens 
Change Alley (incongruously designated as "avenue"), a quaint, narrow 
foot passage to State Street, one of the earliest ways established in 
the town. It was sometime Flagg Alley, from being laid out with flag 




The Auams Statlk 



i6 CORNIIILL AND ABOUT SCOLLAY SQUARE 

stones. Until the erection of the great financial buildings that now 
largely wall it in, the alley was picturesque with bustling little shops. 

On the west side of Faneuil Hall Square the triangle, covered with 
low, old buildings, marks the head of the ancient Town Dock. 

Old Dock Square makes into modern Adams Square (opened in 1S79), 
near the middle of which stands the bronze statue of Samuel Adams, 
by Anne Whitney. This is a counterpart of the statue of the revolu- 
tionary leader in the Capitol at Washington. It portrays him as he is 
supposed to have appeared when before Lieutenant Governor Hutchin- 
son and the council, in the Council Chamber of the Old State House, 
as chairman of the committee of the town meeting the day after the 
Boston Massacre of 1770, and at the moment that, having delivered 
the people's demand for the instant removal of the British soldiers 
from the town, he stood with a resolute look awaiting Hutchinson's 
reply. 

The principal architectural feature of this open space is the stone 
Adams Square Station of the Subway. 

Cornhill and about Scollay Square. From the west side of Adams 
Square we pass into Cornhill, early in its day a place of bookshops, 
and still occupied by several booksellers at long-established stands. 
It is the second Cornhill, the first having been the part of the present 
Washington Street between old Dock Square and School Street. Wash- 
ington Street originally ended at Dock Square north of the present 
Cornhill, and its extension to Haymarket Square (1872), where it now 
ends, greatly changed this part of the town and obliterated various 
landmarks. A little north of the present opening of Cornhill, lost in 
the Washington Street extension, was the site of the dwelling of Ben- 
jamin Edes, where, on the afternoon preceding the Boston Tea Party of 
December 16, 1773, a number of the leaders in that affair met and 
partook of punch from the punch bowl now possessed by the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society. 

This Cornhill dates from 181 6, and was first called Cheapside, after 
the London fashion. Then for a while it was Market Street, being a 
new way to Faneuil Hall Market. From its northerly end was once an 
archway leading to Brattle Street and old Dock Square, which also 
disappeared in the extension of Washington Street. Midway, at its 
curve toward Court Street, where it ends, it is crossed by Franklni 
Ai'enne (another short passageway, or alley, with this ambitious title), 
at the Court Street end of which was Edes & Gill's printing ofiice, the 
principal rendezvous of the Tea-Party men, in a back room of which a 
number of them assumed their disguise. This was on the westerly 
corner of the "avenue," then Dasset Alley, and Court, then Queen, 



BRATTLE SQUARE CHURCH 17 

Street. Earlier, on the east corner, was the printing office of Benjamin 
Franklin's brother James, where the boy P'ya)ikliii learned the printer's 
trade as his brother's apprentice, and composed those ballads on " The 
Lighthouse Tragedy" and on "Teach" (or " Blackbeard "), the pirate, 
which he peddled about the streets with a success that "flattered" 
his "vanity," though they were "wretched stuff," as he confesses in 
his Autobiography. Here James Franklin issued his New Eni^land 
Ccmrant, the second newspaper that appeared in America, which 
Franklin managed during the month in which his brother was impris- 
oned for printing an article offensive to the Assembly, and himself 
" made bold to give our rulers some rubs in it " ; and which, after 
James's release inhibited from publishing, was issued for a while 
under Benjamin's name. 

The north end of Franklin Avenue, from Cornhill by a short flight of 
steps, is at Brattle Street, a short distance above the site of Murray's 
Barracks, on the opposite side, where were quartered the Twenty- 
Ninth, the regiment of the British force of 1 768-1 770 most obnoxious 
to the " Bostoneers," and w^here the fracas began that culminated in 
the Boston Massacre. The Quincy House, nearer the avenue's end, 
covers the site of \.\\q first Quaker meetiiighoiise, built in 1697, the first 
brick meetinghouse in the town. Opposite the side of the Quincy 
House, facing Brattle Square, stood till 1871 the Brattle Square 
Church, which after the Revolution bore on its front a memento of 
the Siege, in the shape of a cannon ball, thrown there by an Amer- 
ican battery at Cambridge on the night of the EvacuSt-tion. This was 
the meetinghouse alluded to in Holmes's " A Rhymed Lesson," 

. . . that, mindful of the hour 
When Howe's artillery shook its half-built tower, 
Wears on its bosom, as a bride might do, 
The iron breastpin which the 'Rebels' threw. 

A model of the church as it thus appeared is in the rooms of the 
Massachusetts Historical Society, where also the cannon ball is pre- 
served. The quoins of the structure, of Connecticut stone, were placed 
inside the tower of its successor on Commonwealth Avenue, Back Bay, 
now the church of the First Baptist Society. Though new, and " the 
pride of the town " at the time of the Revolution, having been conse- 
crated in 1773, it was utilized as barracks for the British soldiers; and 
only the fact that the removal of the pillars which embellished its inte- 
rior would have endangered the structure, prevented its use during the 
Siege as a military riding school, hke the Old South Meetinghouse 
(see p. 51). It was the church that Hancock, Bowdoin, and Warren 



CORNIIILL AND ABOUT SCOLLAY SQUARE 



attended. Warren's house, from 1764, was near by on Hanover Street, 
the site now covered by the American House. 

At the head of Cornhill, in front of old Scollay Si/uare, stands the 
bronze statue of John Winthrop, removed from its original site to make 
way for the Scollay Square Station of the Subway. It is well worth a 

few moments' study, though 
the constant traffic of the 
busy thoroughfare makes its 
near neighborhood somewhat 
perilous. The Colonial gov- 
ernor, clad in the picturesque 
costume of the period, is rep- 
resented as stepping from 
a gang board to the shore. 
In his right hand he holds 
the charter of the Colony by 
its great seal ; in his left the 
Bible. Behind the figure 
appears the base of a newly 
hewn forest tree, with a rope 
attached, significant of the 
fastening of a boat. The 
statue is the work of Richard 
S. Greenough and a copy of 
the marble one in the Capitol 
at Washington, with altera- 
tions made by the artist in 
the model to adapt it for 
casting in bronze. It was 
cast in Rome. It was placed 
in 1880, on the 250th anni- 
versary of the settlement of 
Boston. 
About where the Scollay Square Station stands, or a little north of 
its site, was the first Free Writing School, set up in 1 683-1 684. This 
w^as the second school in the town, the first being on School Street, as 
we shall presently see. It continued in use till after the Revolution 
(or about 1793), latterly known as the Central Reading and Writing 
School. 

Looking down Court Street eastward, we have in near view the 
somber-pillared front of the Old Court House, dating from 1836. It was 
designed by Solomoii Willard, the architect of Bunker Hill Momiment. 




CotJRT Street 



COLONIAL PRISON 



Its exterior is of Quincy granite. The ponderous fluted columns 
(originally eight in all, there having been a row on the rear as well 
as in front) weigh each twenty-five tons. The first two were brought 
over the roads from Quincy by sixty-five yoke of oxen and ten 
horses, making a great street show. This building was the center 
of the exciting scenes attending the fugitive slave cases in 1851 and 
1854. 

Here occurred first, in February, 185 1, the rescue of Shedrack, who had been 
confined in the United States court room awaiting action upon a process for his 
rendition. Six weeks later came the Thomas 
Sims affair, when, to prevent the rescue of this 
slave, the building was guarded and surrounded 
with chains breast high, under which the judges 
and all others having business within were 
obliged to stoop to reach the doors. Finally, 
in May, 1854, occurred the Anthony Burns riot, 
on the evening of the 26th, with the failure of 
the rescue planned by a number of the anti- 
slavery "Vigilance Committee," when, in the 
assault made at the entrance on the east side 
of the building, one of the marshal's deputies 
was killed. It was after this affair that indict- 
ments were brought against Theodore Parker, 
Wendell Phillips, Thomas Wentworth Higgin- 
son, and several others, for "obstructing the 
process of the United States." For their 
defense a formidable array of counsel appeared 
here, but the indictment was quashed. 

On this same spot was the Colonial 
prison, its outer walls of stone three feet 
thick, with unglazed iron-barred windows, 
stout oaken doors covered with iron, hard 

cells, and gloomy passages, where were incarcerated the Quakers and, 
later, victims of the witchcraft delusion. Here also, after the over- 
throw of Andros in 1689, Ratcliffe, the rector of the first Episcopal 
church, which Andros so fostered (see King's Chapel, p. 24), was 
confined with his leading parishioners for nine months, till sent to 
England by royal command. Another distinguished prisoner here, 
in 1699, was the piratical Captain Kidd. It was this prison that 
Hawthorne fancifully describes in "The Scarlet Letter." The prison 
was first placed here in 1642, and gave to the street the name of Prison 
Lane, which it bore through the seventeenth century. Then it became 
Queen Street, and Court Street after the Revolution. 




The Winthrop Statu: 



20 TKEMONT STREET 

Looking westward up Cotirt Street to the upper side, called Tremont 
Row, we may imagine the site of Governor John Endicott's house, where 
he lived after his removal from Salem to Boston, and where, in 
1 66 1, Samuel Shattuck, bearing the order of the King releasing the 
imprisoned Quakers, had audience with him, — the event upon which 
Whittier's " The King's Missive " is founded. This house is variously 
placed by local authorities on Tremont Row, between Tremont Street 
and Howard Street, but the best evidence appears to point to a situ- 
ation toward the Howard Street end. 

Tremont Street and King's Chapel. Now we take Tremont Street. 
From the west side, at its beginning, opens the short way up to Pein- 
herton Square, at the head of which we see the fa9ade of the present 
County Court House (built 1887-1893). This is a long granite structure 
in the German Renaissance style of architecture, designed by George A. 
Clough. Its plan is on the system of open courtyards : four are in the 
area of the general block. It covers 65,300 feet of land. The feature 
of the interior is the great hall, broad and lofty, a flight of steps ascend- 
ing to it from the front entrance, and other flights ascending from it to 
the rear exit on Somerset Street. Upon the faces of the cornices in the 
vestibule at the main entrance are statuesque bas-reliefs of Law, Justice, 
Wisdom, Innocence, and Guilt. On one side of the hall is the bronze 
statue of Rufus Choate, the great lawyer of his day. This is by Daniel 
C. P>ench. It was placed in 189S. It was a gift to the city, provided 
for in the will of a Boston public-school master. The donor was some- 
time master of the Dwight School for boys, and afterward principal 
of the Everett School for girls. 

Pemberton Square marks the second highest peak of Beacon Hill. 
This peak at first received the name of Cotton Hill, from the Rev. John 
Cotton, the early minister of the First Church, whose house was on its 
slope facing Tremont Street. The Cotton estate originally spread over 
this peak, extending back across Somerset Street to about the middle 
of Ashburton Place in the rear of the Court House. 

The peak rose originally in irregular heights, the loftiest bluff being 
at the southerly end of Pemberton Square, or on the west side of 
Tremont Street about opposite the gate of King's Chapel Burying 
Ground. Against its slopes were early favorite places for house sites. 

John Cotton's house was set up in 1633, soon after his arrival in the 
Griffin. It stood a little south of the entrance to Pemberton Square. 
Next above, or adjoining it, was Sir Harry Vane's house. This was built 
by the young statesman a few months after his arrival (October, 1635), 
he having at first been the minister's guest. It was Vane's home when 
he was governor of the Colony in 1636-1637. Later the Cotton house 



KING'S ClIAPKL liURVINC; (iROLM) 



came into possession of John Hull, the "mint master," who made the 
pine-tree shilUngs, the first New England money. In course of time 
it fell to Chief Justice Samuel Sewall (one of the witchcraft judges at 
Salem in 1692), the diarist of early Boston, through his marriage with 
the "mint master's" daughter Hannah, whose wedding dowry, tradition 
tells, was her weight in the pine-tree shilUngs. 

About where the Suffolk Savings Bank building stands, but farther 
back from the street, was Richard Bellingham's stone house, in which he 
lived through his several terms as governor and till his death in 1672. 
He was dwelUng here 
when, in 1641, he scan- 
dalized his brethren by 
the manner of his mar- 
riage to Penelope Pel- 
ham, his second wife, 
without " publishing " 
the marriage intention, 
and especially by per- 
forming the marriage 
ceremony himself, being 
a magistrate, as Win- 
throp relates in pictur- 
esque detail in his 
journal. 

In the next century 
the grand Faneuil man- 
sion and terraced 

, , Old Boston MisErM 

gardens were here. 

This was the estate that Peter Faneuil inherited in 1737 and was 
occupying when he built Faneuil Hall. It was maintained in all its 
elegance by its several owners till some years after the Revolution. 
At that time it was confiscated, its owner being a Royalist, — William 
Vassal, uncle of the Colonel John Vassal who built the Cambridge 
mansion now treasured as the Longfellow house. Pearly in the nine- 
teenth century it was joined to the Gardner Greene estate, the finest 
in the town. 




The peak was finally cut down in the tliirties, and Peniberton Square was 
then laid out through the Greene estate as a place of genteel residences in 
blocks, which character it sustained till the late sixties. 



On the east side the Boston Museum, now razed to make way for a 
modern business structure, long stood the oldest playhouse of the city. 



22 KING'S ClIATKL I5URVING GROUND 

For more than half a century it was a famiUar landmark. At first 
the museum proper, with its halls of marvelous curiosities, was the 
chief feature of the institution, the performances being subordinate 
to these attractions, and the theater being called " the lecture hall," to 
quiet the consciences of its patrons, who shied from the openly pro- 
claimed playhouse. William Warren, the " prince of comedians," as 
Bostonians delighted in calling him, was identified with the Museum for 
forty years. Here Edwin Booth made his first appearance on any stage. 

From King's Chapel to Park Street Church. King's Chapel Burying 
Ground, adjoining the old stone church, is very nearly as ancient as the 
town of Boston. The exact date of its establishment is not known, 
but it w^as probably soon after the beginning of the settlement, for this 
record appears in Winthrop's journal: " Capt. Welden, a hopeful young 
gent, & an experienced soldier, dyed at Charlestowne of a consumption, 
and was buryed at Boston wth a military funeral." And Dudley wrote 
that the young man was " buryed as a souldier with three volleys of 
shott." The earliest interment of record here was that of Governor 
Winthrop in 1649. It is believed that his third wife, Margaret Winthrop, 
who followed him to New England the year after he came out and who 
died two years before him, was also buried here. 

In the same tomb are the ashes of other distinguished Winthrops, — 
the Massachusetts governor's eldest son and grandsons : John Win- 
throp, Jr., the governor of the Connecticut Colony, who died in 1676, 
and John Jr.'s two sons, Fitz John Winthrop, governor of the United 
Colonies of Connecticut (died 1707), and Wait Still Winthrop, chief 
justice of Massachusetts and sometime major general of the forces of 
the Colony (died 171 7). A second Winthrop tomb contains the dust 
of Professor John Winthrop of Harvard College, the friend of Franklin 
and correspondent of John Adams (died in 1779). 

The first Winthrop tomb is seen not far from the middle of the 
ground. Beside it is the tomb of Elder Thomas Oliver of the First 
Church, which subsequently became the property of the church ; and 
close to this a horizontal tablet informs that " here lyes intombed the 
bodyes of ye famous reverend and learned pastors of the First Church 
of Christ in Boston, viz:" John Cotton, aged 67 years, died 1652; John 
Davenport, 72 years, died 1670; John Oxenbridge, aged 66 years, died 
1674; and Thomas Bridge, aged 58 years, died 1715. Near by are 
the modest gravestones of Sarah, " the widow of the beloved John 
Cotton and excellent Richard Mather," and of Elizabeth, widow of 
John Davenport. 

In the middle of the ground is the marble monument to Colonel 
Thomas Dawes, a leading Boston mechanic of his day, who died in 



KING'S CHAPEL 23 

1809, and near it the tomb of Governor John Leverett. A few steps 
distant is that of the Boston branch of the Plymouth Colony Winslow 
family. Here are the ashes of John Winslow, brother of Governor 
Edward Winslow, with those of the former's wife, who was Mary Chilton, 
one of the Mayflower passengers, heroine of the popular but apoc- 
ryphal tale of the first woman to spring ashore from the Pilgrim ship. 
In a cluster of ancient tombs are those of Jacob Sheafe, an opulent 
merchant of Colony times, in which was afterward buried the Rev. 
Thomas Thacher, first pastor of the Old South Church (died 1678), 
who married Sheafe's widow; and of Thomas Brattle (died 1683), said 
probably to have been the wealthiest merchant of his day, whose son 
Thomas became a treasurer and benefactor of Harvard College. A 
tomb of especial interest in this quarter is the Benjamin Church 
tomb, for herein were deposited the remains of Lady Andros, the wife 
of Governor Andros, who died in February, 1688, and of whose funeral 
in the nighttime from the Old South Meetinghouse Sewall gives a 
quaint account in his diary. Other tombs of note are those of Major 
Thomas Savage, one of the commanders in King Philip's War, and 
Judge Oliver Wendell, grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes. 

Many of the old tombstones here have been shifted from their proper 
places and made to serve as edge stones along the paths beyond the 
principal gateway. This vandalism was the performance years ago of 
a superintendent of burials who was possessed with an evil " eye for 
symmetry." 

King's Chapel in part occupies the upper end of this burying ground, 
which extended originally to School Street, the land having been taken 
by Governor Andros in 1688 for the first Episcopal church, no Puritan 
landholder being found who would sell for such a purpose. This 
building dates from 1754 and is the second King's Chapel on the spot. 
Its aspect has been little changed, beyond the enrichment of the interior, 
from Province days. The low solid edifice of dark stone, with its heavy 
square tower surrounded by wooden Ionic columns, stands as it appeared 
when it was the official church of the royal governors. The stone of 
which it is constructed came from Quincy (then Braintree), where it was 
taken from the surface, there being then no quarries. It was built so 
as to inclose the first chapel, in Wrhich services were held for the greater 
part of the time consumed in the slow work, — about five years. Peter 
Harrison, an Englishman who came out in 1729 in the train of Dean 
Berkeley to have part in the dean's projected but never established 
university, was the architect. His model w^as the familiar English 
church of the eighteenth century; so the visitor sees in the fashion 
of the interior, its rows of columns supporting the ceiling, the antique 



24 KING'S CHAPEL 

pulpit and reading desk, the mural tablets and the sculptured monu- 
ments that line the ^valls, a pleasant likeness to an old London church. 
Memorials of the first chapel are preserved in the chancel. The com- 
munion table of 1688 is still in use. Several of the mural tablets are 
of the Provincial period. On the organ are in their ancient places the 
gilt miters and crown, which were removed at the Revolution and 
deposited in a place of safety. Among the tablets on the northei-n 
wall is one to the memory of Oliver Wendell Holmes. This was placed 
in the autumn of 1895. •^'"'^ inscription was composed by President 
Eliot of Harvard University. 

At the Evacuation the venerable rector, Mr. Caner, fled with the Loyalists of 
his parish, taking off with him to Halifax the church registers, plate, and vest- 
ments, but most of tliese were in later years 
_,_.--''^'^.<^'?fe^-. restored. 

j^s-' .. The last Loyalist service before the Evacua- 

"' = "^ tion was on the preceding Sunday. In less than 

;'; ^ a month after the Evacuation the chapel was 

u ^j, reopened for the obsequies of General Joseph 

''"■" \^ Warren, who fell at Bunker Hill, and on 

j^-. - that occasion the orator, Perez 

,--:5:^ffJ|?;«?;r-^_^ Morton, advocated independ- 

. _'^ --:""-- ^ ,,' ence. For more than two years 

■^''•.f '^ ^i?^ ■/,... - . ,- ■'-'■... thereafter the chapel was closed. 
^ V,?. ■■ ,' f^{ ■p, I " - ! .y ' ii t' •• ' Then it was opened to the Old 
-''* ! , -' r ' " „ South congregation, and it was 

■; ' ,. ^^ 'I used by tlie latter for nearly 

'* "^ five years, when their meeting- 

King's Chai'ei house was restored. In 1782 

the remnant of the society 
renewed their services with the Rev. James I'reeman as "reader." In 1787 
Mr. Freeman was ordained as rector, and at that time this first Episcopal church 
in New England became the first Unitarian church. A bust of Mr. Freeman is 
among the mural monuments. 

The original King's Chapel of 1688 was a small wooden structure, built at a 
cost of ;^284 16 J-, contributed by parsons throughout the Colony, with subscrip- 
tions from Andros and other English officers. For more than two years before 
its erection the Episcopal congregation had joint occupancy of the Old South 
Church with its proper owners, by order of Governor Andros against their 
earnest and constant protest. The church organization was formed in 1686, 
under the aggressive leadership of Edward Randolph, with the Rev. Roljert Rat- 
cliffe as rector, who had come from England commissioned to establish the 
Church of England in the Colony. The use of any of the Congregational meet- 
inghouses being denied them, the projectors of the church founded it in the 
" library room " of the Town House. This was their place of meeting till 
Andros ordered the Old South opened to them. When Andros was overthrown 



»^- ■<-! 



I 



T RE MONT TEMPLE 25 

the rector and his leading parishioners were imprisoned till their return to Eng- 
land (see p. 19). The remnant of the congregation resumed services in the 
chapel, which was finished a few months after Andros's departure. 

In 1 7 ID the chapel was enlarged to twice its size. Then the exterior was 
embellished with a tower surmounted by a tall mast half-way up which was a 
large gilt crown and at the top a weathercock. Within the enlarged chapel the 
governor's pew, raised on a dais higher by two steps than the others, hung with 
crimson curtains and surmounted by the royal crown, was opposite the pulpit, 
which itself stood on the north side at about the center. Near the governor's 
pew was another reserved for officers of the British army and navy. Displayed 
along the walls and suspended from the pillars were the escutcheons and coats of 
arms of the king, Sir Edmund Andros, Governors Dudley, Shute, Burnet, Belcher, 
and Shirley, and other persons of distinction. At the east end was " the altar 
piece, whereon was the Glory painted, the Ten Commandments, the Lord's 
Prayer, the Creed, and some texts of Scripture." The communion plate was a 
royal gift. 

Less than a block beyond King's Chapel, on the opposite side of 
Tremont Street, we come to the Granary Burying Ground, established 
only about thirty^ears after the Chapel Burying Ground (in 1660), and 
of greater historic interest, perhaps, because of the more numerous 
memorials here. 

On the short walk from the Chapel we pass the site of the birthplace 
of Edward E. Hale, covered by the upper part of the Parker House. This 
hotel also covers, on its School Street side, the site of the home of Oliver 
Wendell, the maternal grandfather of Oliver Wendell Holmes, for whom 
he was named. On Bosworth Street, the first passage opening from 
Tremont Street, opposite the burying ground, — a courtlike street end- 
ing with stone steps which lead down to a more ancient cross street, — 
was Doctor Holmes's home for eighteen years from 1841, the "house at 
the left hand next the farther corner," which he describes in "The 
Autocrat." 

The Tremont Temple, next above the Parker House, is the building 
of the Union Temple (Baptist) Church, founded in 1839, a free church 
from its beginning. It is the fourth temple on this site, each of the 
previous ones having been destroyed by fire. The first one was a 
theater remodeled in 1S43. The playhouse was the Tremont 
Theater, first opened in 1835, one of the most interesting of its 
class and time. 

It was here that Charlotte Cushman made her debut, in April. 1835 : that 
Fanny Kemble first appeared before a Boston audience ; that operas were first 
produced in Boston. 

In the large public hall of the second Tremont Temple Charles Dickens gave 
his readings during his last visit to America, in 1868. 



26 



GRANARY BURYING GROUND 



The large Tremont Building opposite occupies the site of the Tre- 
mont House, a famous inn through its career of more than sixty years 
from 1829, of which Dickens wrote, "it has more galleries, colon- 
nades, piazzas, and passages than I can remember, or the reader would 
believe." Preceding the inn, fine mansion houses with gardens were 
here, one of them being the estate of Thomas Haiidasyd Perkins, a 
genuine "soUd man of Boston," a benefactor of the Boston Athenaeum 
and of other Boston institutions. 

On the gates of the Granary Burying Ground, 
set in their high ivy-mantled stone frame, are 
tablets inscribed with the names of many of the 
notables buried here. They include governors of 
various periods, — Richard BelUngham, William 
Dummer, James Bowdoin, Increase Sumner, 
James Sullivan, and Christopher Gore ; signers 
of the Declaration of Independence, — John 
Hancock, Samuel Adams, and Robert Treat 
Paine ; ministers, — John Bajjy (of the First 
Church), Samuel Willard (of the Old South 
Church), Jeremy Belknap (founder of the Massa- 
chusetts Historical Society), and John Lathrop 
(of the Second Church); Chief Justice Samuel 
Sewall ; Peter Faneuil ; Paul Revere ; Josiah 
Franklin and wife, parents of Benjamin Franklin ; 
Thomas Cushing, lieutenant 
governor, 1 780-1 788; John 
Phillips, first mayor of Bos- 
ton, and father of Wendell 
Phillips; and the victims of 
the Boston Massacre of 1770. 
Besides these, others of 
like distinction are entombed 
here, among them James 
Otis; the Rev. Thomas Prince, 
the learned annalist; the Rev. 
Pierre Daille, minister of the 
French cluuch formed by 
the Huguenots who came to 
Boston after the revocation 
of the Edict of Nantes; 
Edward Rawson, secretary of 
the Colony; Josiah Willard, Graxakv Burying Ground 





GRANARY BURVlNCi GROUND 



27 



secretary of the Province; and John Hull, the "mint master" of 1652. 
General Joseph Warren's tomb was here (the Minot tomb, adjoining 
that of Hancock) from after the obsequies in King's Chapel in 1776 
till 1825. Then his remains were removed to the Warren tomb under 
St. Paul's Church. In 1855 they were again removed, being finally 
deposited in the family vault in Forest Hills Cemetery, Roxbury Dis- 
trict. Wendell Phillips (died 1884) was also temporarily buried here, 
beside the tomb of his father, at the right of the entrance gate. After 
the death of his widow> two years later, his remains were removed to 
Milton and placed by her side. 

The most conspicuous monuments here, all in view from the side- 
walk, are the bowlders marking the tombs of Samuel Adams and 
James Otis, the former near the fence, north of the entrance gate, 
the latter, also near the fence, south of the gate; the monument to 
Benjamin Franklin's parents, in the middle of the yard; and the John 
Hancock monument, in the southwestern corner. The inscriptions on 
the Adams and Otis bowlders give these records 

Here lies buried 

Samuel Adams 

Signer of- the Declaration of Independence 

Governor of this Commonwealth 

A leader of men and an ardent patriot 

Born 1722 Died 1803 ^ 




Here lies buried 

James Otis 

Orator and Patriot of the Revolution 

Famous for his argument 

against Writs of Assistance 

Born 1725 Died 1783 



^^\ 



m 4f, , 



)tr^ 



5i^(% ^If.iWfe^ S' .vi/^ 






Adams's grave is in the Checkley tomb, which adjoins the sidewalk ; 
Otis's is in the Cunningham tomb, bearing now the name of George 
Longley. The bowlders were placed by the Massachusetts Society of 
the Sons of the Revolution in 1898, as the inscriptions show. 

The epitaph on the Franklin monument was composed by Franklin, 
and first appeared on a marble stone which he caused to be placed here. 
The granite obelisk was provided by a number of citizens in 1827, when 
the stone had become decayed, and the inscription was reproduced on 
the bronze tablet set in its face : 




CRANAKN' lil'RVIXC (IKOUND 

Josiah Franklin 

and 

Abiah his wife, 

lie here interred. 

They lived lovingly together in wedlock 

fifty-five years. 

Without any estate, or any gainful employment, 

By constant labor and industry, 

with God's blessing. 
They maintained a large family 

comfortably, 

and brought up thirteen children 

and seven grandchildren 

reputably. 

From this instance, reader, 

Be encouraged to diligence in thy calling 

And distrust not Providence. 

He was a pious and prudent man ; 

She, a discreet and virtuous woman. 

Their youngest son. 

In filial regard to their memory 

Places this stone 

J. F. born 1655, died 1744, /F-tat 8g. 

A. F. born 1667, died 1752, 85. 

The Hancock monument is a steel shaft, erected in 1895 close by the 
Hancock tomb, set against the wall of one of the buildings which back 
on the yard. It is simply inscribed: 

Obsta Principiis 
This memorial erected 
A.D. MDCCCXCV. By the Com- 
monwealth of Massachv- 
setts to mark the grave of 
John Hancock. 

Nearby the Hancock tomb is a dilapidated slate slab with the inscrip- 
tion, "Frank, servant of John Hancock Esq'r, lies interred here, who 
died 23d Jan'ry 1771, aetat 38." 

The graves of the victims of the Boston Massacre are unmarked. For- 
merly a beautiful larch tree grew over the spot. It is said to be twenty feet 
back from the sidewalk fence and sixty feet south of the Tremont Building. 

The grave of Benjamin Woodbridge, the young victim of the duel 
on the Common in 1728, is midway between the gate and Park Street 
Church, near the fence. The inscription on the upright stone informs 
us that he was "a son of the Honourable Dudley Woodbridge Esq'r," 
and " dec'd July ye 3d, in ye 20th year of his age." 



PARK STREET CHURCH 



29 




Hancock Monument, 
Gkanary Burying Ground 



One stone that many seek here, and some have seemed to identify, 

is not to be found, if we are to accept the word of an authoritative 

antiquary. This is the tablet marking the 

grave of " Mother Goose." According to 

the late William H. Whitmore, who, in his 

" Genesis of a Boston Myth," marshaled strong 

evidence to sustain his assertion, " Mother 

Goose " was not Elizabeth Vergoose, the 

worthy seventeenth-century matron, as has 

been alleged ; nor w^as " Mother Goose " a 

name that originated in Boston. 

In this yard, as in King's Chapel Burying 

Ground, many of the old stones were years ago 

ruthlessly shifted from the graves to which 

they belonged, which caused the remark of 

Dr. Holmes that "Epitaphs were never famous 

for truth, but the old reproach of 'Here lies'' 

never had such a wholesale illustration as 

in these outraged burial places, where the 

stone does lie above and the bones do not 

lie beneath." 

Park Street Church, with its graceful spire, picturesquely finishing the 

corner of Tremont and Park streets, dates from 1808. It is the best 

example remaining in the city of the early nineteenth-century ecclesias- 

i tical aichitecture. It was designed by an English 

^ '^ aichitect, Peter Banner, but the Ionic and Corin- 

\ |> thian capitals of the steeple were the 

'' 1 ' work of the Bostonian Solomon Willard. 

_^ ^ -' \ It was the first Trinitarian church estab- 

lished after the invasion of Unitarianism in 
the Puritan churches, and the fervor with 
which the unadulterated orthodox doctrine 
was preached by its earlier ministers made its 
pulpit famous, and led the unrighteous to 
bestow upon the point which it faces the title 
of " Brimstone Corner." Its history is notable. 
It is marked as the place in which " America " 
was first publicly sung. The hymn was written 
by the Rev. Samuel F. Smith to fit some music 
for Dr. Lowell Mason, music master of Boston, 
and was given for the first time at a children's 
4 1S32. Here on a preceding 4th of July (1829), 
W ilham I lo\d G irrison tlicn not yet twenty-four years old. gave his first public 




J! 



A#*: 



celebrition here on Jul> 



30 



'ARK STREET CHURCH 



address in Boston against slavery. In 1849 Charles Sumner gave his great 
address on " The War System of Nations," at the annual convention of the 
American Peace Society, which that year began to hold its sessions here. This 
remained the Peace Society's regular place of meet- y 

ing for a long period. The patriotic sermons of "^ 

the Civil War preached here by Dr. A. L. Stone 





Pakk Street Church 

(minister of the church from 1849 to 1866) have 
been called "a part of Boston history." 



1 1 ^ ')l 



l-^' I 






~"KlhW^ 



;iv 







This church occupies the site of the town 
granary, a grain house (first set up on the 
Common, opposite, in 1737) from which grain 
was sold to the needy by the town's agents. 
It was from its proximity to the granary that 
the old burying ground got its name. 

Looking up Haniilton Place, opposite Park 
Street Church, we see the side of the old 
Music Hall, now a theater. 
This is a building of pleasant 
memories. It was erected in 
1852, projected chiefly by the 
Harvard Musical Association, 
then the representative of 
classical orchestral music in Boston. Nearly thirty years later (1881) the 
Boston Symphony Orchestra began its career here, under the generous 
patronage of Henry L. Iligginson. Once the hall had in its "great 



* 



BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SU KKOUNDINGS 31 

organ" one of the largest and finest instruments in the world, but this 
was permitted to be sold and removed at a time when the hall was 
undergoing alterations. For some years, during the latter part of his life, 
Music Hall was Theodore Parke)-'' s pulpit ; and at a later period that of 
W. IL H. Murray, after he had been a pastor of Park Street Church. 

Boston Common and its surroundings. Situated in the heart of the 
city, the Common is unique among municipal public grounds. Its 
existence and preservation are due to the wise forethought of the first 
settlers of the town. 



Its integrity rests primarily on a town order passed in 1640, reserving it as 
open ground, or common field. This was strengthened by a clause in the city 
charter forbidding its 
sale or lease. Subse- 
quent acts prohibit the 
laying out of any high- 
way or street railway 
upon or through it, or 
the taking of any part 
of it for widening or 
altering any street, with- 
out the consent of the 
citizens. 




Beacon Street Mall 



It dates actually 
from 1634, four years 
after the settlement 

of the town, when it was laid out as " a place for a trayning field " and for 
" the feeding of cattell." A training field in part it has remained to the 
present day, and cattle did not cease to graze on it till the thirties of the 
nineteenth century. Originally it was larger than it is now, extending 
to the Tremont Building on Tremont and Beacon streets in one direc- 
tion, and across Tremont Street to West and Mason streets in another. 
The taking from the north end for the Granary Burying Ground in 1660 
was its earhest curtailment. On the west side, where is now Charles 
Street, it at first met the Back Bay, the waters of which came up to 
this line. Its present extent is 48f acres, exclusive of the old burying 
ground on part of its south or Boylston Street side. Its surface has 
been much made over, but without obliterating altogether its old-time 
contour. The broad tree-Uned malls which traverse it display the taste 
and large-mindedness of the later town and earlier city fathers. Many 
majestic elms which once embellished the place have been destroyed by 
time and changes. The building of the Subway beneath the Tremont 
Street mall removed the oldest row and some of the finest of them; 



BOSTON COMxMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 



but there yet remain numerous stalwart specimens, with other varieties 
of trees, shading and beautifying the several paths. 

Of the monuments here the Army and Navy Monument, the granite 
Doric column of which reaches above the trees, is most conspicuous. 
This occupies the highest elevation in the inclosure, the point where 
the British artillery were stationed during 
the Siege. It is the work of Martin Mil- 
more, and was erected in 1S77. The statues 
on the projecting pedestals of the plinth 
represent the Soldier, the Sailor, the Muse 
of History, and Peace. The bas-reliefs 
between them depict The Departure of 
the Regiment, The Sanitary Commission, 
The Achievements of the Navy, and The 
Return from the War and Surrender of 
the Battle Flags to the Governor. The 
figures on these bas-reliefs are mostly por- 
traits of soldiers or citizens prominent in 
the Civil War period. The sculptured 
figures at the base of the shaft typify 
the North, South, East, and West. The 
crowning statue represents the " Genius of 
America." The monument bears this 
inscription, written by President Eliot of 
Harvard University: To the men of Boston 
who died for their country on land and sea 
in the war which kept the Union whole, 
destroyed slavery and maintained the Con- 
stitution, the grateful city has built this 
monument that their example may speak to 
coming generations. 
At the foot of this hill, on the east side, stood the " Great Elm " 
till its fall in a windstorm in 1876, supposed to have been old when the 
town was settled, the scene of executions in early Colony days, — 
perhaps that of Anne Hibbens for "witchcraft " in 1656, a limb of the 
tree serving for gallows. An iron tablet marks the spot, and in its place 
is another elm grown from a shoot of it. Not far from the " Great 
Elm" the Quakers were executed. Beneath its branches it is sup- 
posed that the fatal duel in which young Woodbridge was slain (see 
p. 7) took place. 

Near by lies the historic " Frog Pond," so called, as the town wits 
have it, because it was never known to harbor a frog. The real frog 




.Sold 



I'ARADK OROLNI) ^^ 

pond was the Horse or Cow Pond, a shallow pool where the cows 
slaked their thirst or cooled their legs, which lay in the lowlands about 
the present band stand. The present pond is the survivor of three 
marshy bogs originally within the Common. It was the scene of the 
formal introduction of the public water system in 1848, for which cele- 
bration James Russell Lowell wrote his Ode on Water. 

West of the Frog Pond lies the Parade Ground, which represents, in 
small compass, the original training field of the Colonial trainbands. It 
has been the chief mustering place in war times from Provincial to 
modern days. In 1775, when the Common was the British camp, the 
force for Bunker Hill was arrayed here before crossing the river to 
Charlestown. In the preceding April the detachment that moved on 
Lexington and Concord started from near it, taking boats on the bay. 
Now it is the place where the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Com- 




Frog Pond 

pany with great gravity go through their annual time-honored evolu- 
tions, and the boys of the school regiments have their clever May 
trainings. 

The granite shaft with its bronze figure of " Revolution," commemo- 
rating the Boston Massacre of 1770, popularly called the Crispus 
Attacks Monument, stands in the green facing Lafayette Mall on the 
Tremont Street side. It is by Robert Kraus, and was erected by the 
State in 1888. The bas-relief on the base reproduces a crude contem- 
porary picture of the scene published in London together with the 
" Short Narrative " authorized by the town. The inscriptions are these 
words of John Adams and Webster: 

On that night the foundation of American 
Independence was laid. JOHN ADAMS. 

From that moment we may date the sever- 
ance of the British Empire. DANIEL WEBSTER. 

The names of the victims are inscribed on the shaft. 



34 BOSTON COMMON AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 

The promenade of Lafayette Mall is the finishing feature of the 
Subway work on this side of the Common. It extends over the Subway 
between Park and Boylston streets, and at Boylston Street joins a 
narrower walk which follows the Subway course on that side to Charles 
Street, passing by the picturesque old Central Burying Ground (estab- 
lished 1756) which has among its graves those of Gilbert Stuart, the 
painter, and M. Julien, the restaurateur, whose fame as the introducer 
of Julien soup survived him. While these w'alks lack the fringes 
of noble English elms which characterized the earlier malls here, 
especially the Tremont Street mall which once had three magnificent 
rows, they have attractions in the bordering masses of other trees and 
in their openness to the spacious street-ways free from street-car tracks. 

Being in the heart of things Lafayette Mall is an animated thorough- 
fare. Close by is the principal theater quarter of the city. On the 
opposite side of the way are Keith's Theater (fronting on Washington 
Street, next east of Tremont) and the Tremont Theater (near the site 
of the second playhouse built in Boston, — the Haymarket of 1796). 
On Washington Street (with its rear entrance near the West Street 
corner of Tremont) is the Boston Theater, and a little way above this 
the Park Theater. On Tremont Street again, just above Boylston 
Street, is the Majestic Theater. On Hollis Street, off Tremont, is the 
Holhs Street Theater (its house including the brick walls of the third 
Hollis Street Church dating from 1808, the pulpit of John Pierpont 
and Thomas Starr King, and the successor of the earlier Hollis Street 
Church of Mather Byles, the " Tory, wit, and scholar," used, neverthe- 
less, by the British for barracks during the Siege). On Boylston Street, 
opposite the Boylston Street walk, is the Colonial Theater (on the site 
of the first Boston Public Library building). 

In the same neighborhood is a notable group of hotels, including 
the Touraine on the southeast corner of Tremont and Boylston streets 
(occupying the site of the mansion house of President John Quincy 
Adams, birthplace of Charles Francis Adams, Sr.) and the Adams 
House on Washington Street (covering the site of the eighteenth- 
century Lamb Tavern, an early stagecoach starting place). A little 
above the latter, opposite the opening of Boylston Street, is a revo- 
lutionary landmark, the site of the Liberty Tree, the rallying place of 
the Sons of Liberty in the prerevolutionary period, where the effigies 
were hung in the Stamp Act excitement. The business building that 
now covers the spot displays on its front an old tablet with a repre- 
sentation of a tree and beneath these lines : 

Sons of Liberty, 1766 
Independence of their country, 1776. 



BOSTON SUBWAY 



35 



The adjacent hotel, popularly known as "Brigham's," stands in place 
of the Liberty Tree Tavern, where the Liberty men refreshed them- 
selves after their meetings at the tree. " Brigham's" was originally the 
Lafayette Hotel, erected to mark the historical spot in season for the 
great welcome to Lafayette on the Frenchman's memorable last visit to 
the country in 1824; and so was named in his honor. It was in com- 
memoration of this visit, very much later, — three quarters of a century 
afterward, — that Lafayette Mall received its name. 

The selection is based on a pretty incident of that visit. On the reception 
day the school children were lined up along Tremont Street mall, and, as 
Lafayette was passing in the procession, they cast bouquets in his path so that 
he walked upon a carpet of natural flowers. 

Midway up Boylston Street between Washington and Tremont 
streets is the building of the Young Men's Christian Union (instituted 
1 851) with its stone clock tower. 
On the Tremont Street corner 
facing the Lafayette Mall is the 
white granite Masonic Temple (the 
second on this site, built in 1898- 
1899), headquarters of the Grand 
Lodge of Massachusetts, and 
housing thirteen lodges. 

Occupying the streets east of the 
mall is the heart of the retail shop- 
ping quarter. Below the Temple 
Place corner, hedged in by busy 
stores, is St. Paul's Church, the 
fourth Episcopal church in Boston, 
dating from 1820, a Grecian-like 

temple of gray granite, the hexastyle porticoes of Potomac sandstone. 
Solomon Willard carved the Ionic capitals ; Alexander Parris designed 
the whole. The pediment is bare, the original design of a bas-relief of 
Paul preaching at Athens never having been carried out. It was in 
one of the tombs beneath this church that General Joseph Warren's 
remains rested for thirty years after their second removal. In another 
tomb Prescott the historian w^as buried. 

At the head of the Park Street mall are the Park Street entrance 
and exit stations of the Boston Subway. The upper west side building 
is the entrance for south-bound surface cars and south-bound elevated 
trains ; the upper east building, an exit only ; the lower east building, 
both entrance and exit for north-bound elevated trains ; and the lower 




Inside 



36 



BOSTON SUBWAY 



west building, entrance and exit for south-bound cars. Above the stair- 
ways of the Park Street entrance a bronze tablet, placed in commemora- 
tion of the initial opening of the Subway in 1897, gives the following 
data : This Siibtvay authorized by the Legislatures of i8gj and 18^4. 
Noil. Auithan Matthews, Jr., Mayor of the City of Boston. Built by the 
Boston lyansit Cojumission. Howard Ada?ns Carson, chief engineer. 

Begun at the Public Gar- 
den, 28 March, i8gj, was 
opened to this point for 
public travel i September ^ 
i8gy. The work was com- 
pleted throughout and 
the entire Subway opened 
September 3, 1898. Its 
length is about one and 
two thirds miles. Its 
course is shown by the 
accompanying map. 

The surface cars com- 
ing from the west and 
south enter at the Pub- 
lic Garden and make the 
loop at the Park Street 
Station, whence they re- 
turn and emerge at the 
Public Garden. Those 
coming from the north 
and east use that part 
of the Subway between 
Scollay Square and the 
North Station on Cause- 
way Street. The elevated 
trains enter and leave at the ends at Pleasant Street and Causeway 
Street. The elevated system was initiated in 1900. The course of 
the line is indicated on the map on the opposite page. 



/x / 


/ 




\/ \ 




w — 


North Union Sta.S 


^^^Y^H4YMARKE.T SiJ. 


> 


SCOLLAY 59.^^ 

State HouseJ*^ 




^-^^^^^'^f 


D 

Post Office 


.^^^'^^^^ ^p^ARKST. 




\ Common W 




\ — ifc^BOYLSTON ST. 




BorLsro'^ •>'■ m^ SouthUnion Sta.| 


f 


1 1 


1 





Subway Route 



The .Subway is owned by the city and leased to the Boston Elevated Railway 
Company for a term of years, at an annual compensation of 4% per cent of the 
net cost of the work. The number of cars passing around the Park Street loop 
during the busy hour is 245. About 28,000,000 passengers are annually handled 
at the Park Street Station. 

The construction of an additional system of tunnels and subways, four tracked, 
for elevated and surface-car use, was autliorized by legislative act in 1902, 



SHAW MONUMENT 



subsequently accepted by tlie people. This is to extend under Washington 
Street from its junction with Broadway, which leads to South Boston, and to 
connect with the East Boston Tunnel and the existing Subway. 

At the head of the lieacon Street mall, opposite the State House, is 
the Colonel Robert Gould Shaw Memorial, facing Beacon Street, between 
two majestic elms, the most imposing piece of outdoor sculpture in the 
city. Colonel Shaw was the commander of the Fifty-fourth Regiment 
of Massachusetts Infantry, com- 
posed of colored troops, in the 
Civil W'ar, and was killed at the 
head of his command while lead- 
mg the assault on Fort W^agner, 
monu- 
olored 



NORTH UNION STA 

HAVMARKET Sfl '& 

SCOLIAY S*^ 
Slate House O /^ 



^Public 
^^"'"'>PIEASANT ©ST 



July 1 8, 1863 ; and the 
ment commemorates the 
soldiers in that event as well as 
their leader. It consists of a 
statue of Colonel Shaw mounted, 
with his men pressing close beside 
him, in high relief upon a large 
bronze tablet. The sculptor was 
Augustus St. Gaudens, and the 
architect of the elaborate stone 
frame was Charles F. McKim. 
The inscriptions are unusually 
extensive and interesting, includ- 
ing verses of James Russell I^owell 
and Emerson and a memorial by 
President Eliot. • 

The monument was erected and 
dedicated in 1S97. Its cost was met 
from a fund raised by voluntary 
subscriptions. 

On the opposite side of Beacon 
Street, just below Hancock 

Avenue, — the walk along the west side of the State House grounds, 
— is the site of a long-cherished landmark, the removal of which 
occasioned regrets that grow keener as time advances. This was the 
mansion house of John Hancock. The site is marked by a modest 
bronze tablet set in the low iron fence in front of the brownstone 
building, the present publishing house of Messrs. Ginn & Company, 
which now occupies the spot : 



CHARLESTOVi'N 





' NO. HAMPTON ST 

KC'XBtURY ©nSTo 



Elevated Railway R( 



38 



JOHN HANCOCK HOUSE 



Here stood the residence of 

John Hancock, 
a prominent and patriotic 
Merchant of Boston, the first 
Signer of the Declaration of 
American Independence, and 
First Governor of Massachusetts, 
under the State Constitution. 



At the time of its demolition the mansion, besides being of exceptional 
historic value, was a rare type of our provincial domestic architecture, 
and was well fitted by situation and character for preservation as the 

official dwelling of the 
governors of the Com- 
monwealth, as was 
proposed some years 
before. The main struc- 
ture was then nearly as 
in Governor Hancock's 
day, when it was called 
the " seat of his Excel- 
lency the Governor," 
and it contained much 
of the furnishings and 
appointments of his 
time, with the family 
portraits by Copley and 
Smibert. A measure for 
its purchase by the state 
for the governor's house was reported to the Legislature in 1859 by an 
influential committee; but the project failed. At length, in February, 
1863, the land which it occupied was sold. For a while thereafter it 
served as a museum of historical relics, and then, a scheme for its 
removal and reerection elsewhere failing, it was pulled down. Souvenirs 
of it were eagerly sought as it fell. The knocker on the front door was 
given to Dr. Holmes, who placed it on the door of the " old gambrel- 
roofed house " in Cambridge, where it remained till that also was 
demolished. The flight of stone steps which led up to the entrance are 
now in service on I^inebank, Jamaica Park. The purchasers of the 
land, J. M. Beebe and Gardner Brewer, two leading Boston merchants, 
erected the present stately double house here for their occupancy. 
Messrs. Ginn & Company became estabUshed in No. 29 in 1901, and 
their business offices fully occupy the spacious interior. 




Shaw Monument 



JOHN HANCOCK HOUSK 



39 



The old mansion was of Quincy granite obtained from the surface, as in the 
case of King's Chapel, squared and well hammered. The principal features of 
the facade were the broad front door at the head of a flight of stone steps, gar- 
nished with pillars and an ornamental door head ; and the ornamented central 
window over it. The high gambrel roof with dormer windows showed a carved 
balcony railing inclosing its upper portion. The interior comprised a nobly 
paneled hall, having a broad staircase with carved and twisted balusters, which 
divided the house in the middle and extended through on both stories from 
front to rear. On the landing, part way up the staircase, was a circular-headed 
window looking out upon the garden, with a broad and capacious window seat. 
On the entrance floor, at the right of the hall, was the great dining-room, seven- 
teen by twenty-five feet, also elaborately paneled from floor to ceiling. Until the 
widening of Beacon Street the house stood well back from the street on ground 
elevated above it. The approach was then through a " neat garden bordered 
with small trees " and shrubbery. The mansion then, also, had two large wings, 
one on the east side containing a great 
ballroom, the other on the west side 
appropriated to the kitchen and other 
domestic offices. Beyond the west 
wing was the coach house, and adjoin- 
ing that the stable. 

Behind the mansion were the gar- 
dens and fruit-tree nurseries, extend- 
ing up the side of the then existing 
peak of Beacon Hill where the State 
House Annex stands. The mansion 
with the estate came to John Hancock 
in 1777, upon the death of Lydia 
Hancock, widow of his uncle, Thomas Jo™ Hancock 1 
Hancock, who built the house. The 

estate then included the territory occupied by the State House, and extended 
along Beacon Street to Joy Street. During the Siege Lord Percy occupied the 
mansion for some time. 

Let us now step back to the opposite side of Beacon Street a 
moment and take a sweeping survey of the fine line of Beacon Street 
houses down the hill. Standing by the Joy Street steps to the Com- 
mon, which lead to the head of Holmes's " Long Path " (the mall running 
southward across the Common's length to Boylston Street, — the scene 
of the crisis in the " Autocrat's " courtship of the schoolmistress), we 
have the best point of view. Looking westward at the lower corner 
of Walnut Street, the next opening below^ Joy Street, we see the 
house in which Wendell Phillips was born. Lower down is the Somerset 
Club, — the stone double-swell-front house with its mantle of ivy, — 
close to the site of the house in which John Singleton Copley lived 
when he was painting his remarkable Boston portraits. Still farther 




1737-1863 



40 



ST ATI-: IK) LSI' 



down, below the next side opening, we catch a ghmpse of the 
painted brick " .swell" of the Prescott house (No. 55), the home of the 
historian William II. I'rescott through the last fourteen years of 
his life. 

From the State House to the Old South. The front of the State 
House, with its terraced lawn, occupies the cow pasture of the Han- 
cock estate, comprising about two acres, which the town purchased of 
John Hancock's heirs for four thousand dollars and conveyed to the 
Commonwealth. This is the historic " Bulfinch Front," designed by 
Charles Bulfinch and erected in 1 795-1 797. It alone constituted the 

Massachusetts State 
House for more than 
half a century. Then 
a new part, extend- 
ing back upon Mt. 
Vernon Street, was 
added (1853-1856), 
which came to be 
called the " Bryant 
Addition," from its 
principal architect, 
J. G. F. Bryant; and 
finally the "State 
House Annex " was 
erected (i 889-1 895; 
Charles E. Brigham, 
architect), extending 
back from the Bryant 
Addition, with the 
archway over Mt. 
Vernon Street, to 
Derne Street, in ex- 
terior design and 
ornamentation harmonizing with the Bulfinch Front. Standing on the 
highest point of land in the city proper, the yellow dome of the Bulfinch 
Front (the " Gilded Dome " since 1874, when gilt w^as first applied to it) 
is a familiar landmark in every direction by day, while at night, lighted 
up by encircling rows of electric lights, it is a glistening beacon visible 
for many miles. 

Till 181 1 the main peak of Beacon Hill rose directly behind the 
Bulfinch Front, a grassy cone-shaped mound about as high as the 
dome. On its broad, flat summit the Beacon was set up as early as 




DORIC HALL 41 

1634, from which the name of the entire hill came, it having earlier 
been called Gentry Hill, from a lookout established here. 

The Beacon was to warn the country on occasions of danger. It consisted of 
an iron skillet filled with combustibles for firing, suspended from an iron crane 
at the top of a high mast, with treenails in it for its ascent. This and its suc- 
cessors stood for more than a century and a half, but it never seems to have been 
fired for alarm. During the Siege the British pulled the Beacon down and erected 
a fort in its stead. It was reerected after tlie Evacuation and stood till 1789, when 
it was blown down in a gale. 

After the Revolution the first Independence monument in the country 
was set up on this sightly peak (1790-1791), — a plain Doric column of 
brick covered with stucco, on a base of stone, and topped with a gilded 
wooden eagle supporting the American arms, — the work of Bulfinch, 
now reproduced in stone and standing in the State House Park on the 
east side of the long building. When the peak was cut down (in 181 1- 
1823, its earth going principally to fill the North Cove which became 
the Mill Pond) this monument was destroyed, only the inscribed tablets 
and the eagle being reserved. The tablets are inserted in the base of 
the present monument. A wooden effigy of the eagle is now over the 
President's chair in the Senate Chamber. 

The main approach to the State House, up the long sweep of broad 
stone steps from Beacon Street, leads to the spacious porch from 
which opens Doric Hall, the main hall of the Eulfinch Front. The 
bronze statues on the terrace lawn are : on the right as we ascend, 
Daniel Webster, by Hiram Powers, erected in 1859 by the Webster 
Memorial Committee ; on the left, Horace Mann, by Emma Stebbins, 
erected in 1865, a gift from school children and teachers of the state, 
who gave the fund for its execution in recognition of Horace Mann's 
service in developing the system of popular education in Massachusetts. 

In Doric Hall we see the statue of Washington in marble, by Sir Fran- 
cis Chantrey, given to the state in 1827 by the Washington Monument 
Association ; and the marble statue of John A. Andrew, the " war gov- 
ernor," by Thomas Ball, erected in 1871, the cost being met from a 
surplus of ^10,000 remaining from the fund subscribed for the statue 
of Edward Everett in the Public Garden. Set in a side wall near 
these statues are two memorials of the Washington family, — fac- 
similes of the tombstones of the ancestors of Washington, from the 
parish church of Brington, Northamptonshire, England, given to the 
state by Charles Sumner in 1861, to whom they were presented by Earl 
Spencer. Against the walls on either side of the Washington statue 
are tablets to the memory of Charles Bulfinch, and commemoratmg 
the "preservation and renewal of the Massachusetts State House." 



42 STATE HOUSE 

On the side walls are portraits of sixteen governors of Massachusetts. 
Four brass cannon are placed against the wall, two of them consecrat- 
ing the names of Major John Euttrick and Captain Isaac Davis, heroes 
of the fight at Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775, ^^^ other two, cannon 
captured in the War of 181 2. 

From Doric Hall we enter the passageway leading into the "Grand 
Staircase Hall," and from the latter pass into "Memorial Hall," the 
crowning feature of this floor. In the passageway a large bronze case 
contains the colors carried by Massachusetts soldiers in the Spanish 
War and returned to the custody of the Commonwealth. They were 
deposited here July 31, 1901. The skylight in the ceiling here, it will 
be observed, is decorated with a representation of Liberty surrounded 
by the names of various republics. 

The Grand Staircase Hall is an effective piece of marble work. The 
great painting on the north wall represents " James Otis Making his 
Famous Argument Against the Writs of Assistance in the Old Town 
House in Boston, in February, 1761." The scene is the Council 
Chamber of the Old State House. The painter was Robert Reid. The 
staircases here are of Pavonazzo marble. The right-hand flight leads to 
the Senate Chamber and rooms ; the left side to the Executive Depart- 
ment. The balcony formed by the third-floor corridor is surmounted 
by twelve Ionic columns. Its windows at the south are emblematic of 
Commerce, Education, Fisheries, and Agriculture. At the head of the 
stairs are the seal of the colony, 1628-1684, and the seal of the state 
carved in marble. 

The marble Memorial Hall in circular form rises to a dome with bronze 
cornice environed by the eagles of the Republic, the crest of the Com- 
monwealth appearing above, in cathedral glass, surrounded by the seals 
of the other twelve original states. The gallery is supported by six- 
teen pillars of Sienna marble. The four niches with glass fronts 
contain the battle flags carried by the Massachusetts Volunteers in 
the Civil War, and in each niche is a framed extract from the address 
of Governor Andrew upon receiving them (all but a few which were 
returned later) on Forefathers' Day, December 22, 1865. In other 
arched recesses are busts of Massachusetts governors. The large 
paintings on the walls are : north wall, " The Pilgrims on the A/ay- 
Jiower"; south wall, "John Eliot Preaching to the Indians," — both by 
Henry Oliver Walker; west wall, "Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775"; 
east wall, " The Return of the Colors to the Custody of the Common- 
wealth, December 22, 1865," — both by Edward Simmons. 

Beyond Memorial Hall the main staircase leads to the floor upori 
which is Representatives Hall. This chamber is finished in white 



STATE LIBRARY 



43 



mahogany, with paneled walls. The coved ceiling is embellished with 
frescoes by the artist Frank Hill Smith. Upon the frieze are names 
of fifty-one noted men of Massachusetts. The historic codfish is sus- 
pended opposite the Speaker's desk between the two central columns. 
Opposite Representatives Hall, on the east side, are the rooms of the 
Secretary of the Commonwealth, in which are to be seen precious docu- 
ments encased in asbestos boxes, — the Colony Charter of 1628, the 
Province Charter of 1692, the Explanatory Charter of George II, and 
the original Constitution of the Commonwealth, with an attested copy 
made in 1894, the original having become in part illegible. In the 
archives, on the fourth floor, belonging to this department are, with 
much other valuable historical material, the military records of the 
Narragansett War, of 
the French and Indian 
Wars, and the muster 
and pay rolls of the 
Revolution, the original 
depositions and exam- 
inations of persons 
accused of witchcraft, 
and manuscript papers 
of the Revolution. 

In the State Library, 
at the north end of the 
building, is to be seen 
in a glass-covered case 
the famous Bradford 
Manuscript, the " His- 
tory of Plimoth Plantation " by Governor William Bradford, popularly 
but erroneously called the Log of the Mayflower. This is the volume 
which after various adventures found lodgment in the Library of the 
Bishop of London's Palace at Fulham, and was returned to the Com- 
monwealth by the Bishop of London through the efforts of Senator 
Hoar of Massachusetts and the Hon. Thomas F. Bayard, ambassa- 
dor at the Court of St. James. It was received in behalf of the Com- 
monwealth by Governor W'olcott, May 26, 1897. The State Library 
contains 110,000 volumes. 

The Executive Department and the quarters of the Senate are in 
the Bulfinch Front. The Council Chamber, fashioned in the Corinthian 
order, has the old ornamentations designed by Bulfinch. In the Go7'er- 
nor's Rooms are several portraits of note. In the Senate Chamber, occu- 
pying niches, are busts of Washington, Frankhn, Lafayette, Lincoln, and 



ifflrf 


k 


- 




iilHilil| 


% 


r 


""■'"'^ - • -=.-• ...^ 


ZT*^^ 


: 


^3 



State House 



44 STATE HOUSE PARK 

distinguished Massachusetts men. The gilded eagle above the Presi- 
dent's chair, with the national and State flags, holds in its beak a large 
scroll inscribed, " God Save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts." In 
the Senate Receptio7i Room are numerous interesting relics. Among 
them are the first king's arms captured from the British, at Lexington, 
on the 19th of April, 1775, and the fowling piece used that morning by 
Captain John Parker, the commander of the minutemen there, — both 
gifts to the State from his distinguished grandson, Theodore Parker, 
the preacher and reformer. There are also a Hessian hat, sword, gun, 
and drum captured at the battle of Bennington, August 16, 1777, which 
were presented to the State by Brigadier General John Stark. On the 
walls are portraits of twenty-two governors, including an original portrait 
of John Winthrop. 

The State House Park, on the east side of the long building, is a spread- 
ing lawn fringed with young trees, shrubs, and flowers, space for which 
was obtained by discontinuing two or three fine old streets and remov- 
ing the well-favored dwellings that faced upon them. Beneath a con- 
siderable part of it are great coal bunkers for the large supply of coal 
required for the State House. The reproduced Biilfiiich Monument in 
stone occupies as near as may be the position of the original one. It 
is an exact copy of that in dimensions, and the eagle at its top follows 
the original drawing of Bulfinch's bird. The inscription on the bronze 
tablet in the base gives this concise chapter of history : In 16^4 the 
General Court caused a Beacon to be placed on the top of this hill. In 
lygo a brick and stone monument designed by Charles Bill finch replaced 
the BeacoJi, but was retnoved in 1811 when the hill was cut dozvn. It is 
flow reproduced in stone by the Bufiker Hill Monument Association. i8g8. 
The old tablets of the Bulfinch monument are set higher in the base. 

The statue in the lawn near by is that of Major General Charles 
Devens (United States Marshal, United States Attorney-General, and 
Justice of the Supreme Judicial Court of Massachusetts). It is by 
Olin L. Warner, and was erected by the State in 1898. The equestrian 
statue on the Beacon Street side of the park, set in the broad walk, 
is of Major General Joseph Hooker, by Daniel C. French. This was 
erected during the present year. 

We reenter Beacon Street by the arched way from this walk, opposite 
the head of Park Street. Down Park Street we see, facing the Common, 
a line of buildings, mostly dwellings reconstructed for business purposes, 
several of which are interesting landmarks. The upper one at the 
Beacon Street corner was, in part (that part fronting on l^ark Street, a 
portion of the old iron-railed entrance steps remaining), the home of 
George Ticknor, the historian (" History of Spanish Literature "). The 



]UtAC()?s STRKI-: r 



45 



larger building below is the house of the Union Club, established (1865) 
during the Civil War, primarily as a i)olitical club in support of the 
Union cause. Edward Everett was its first president. It occupies 
in part the residence of Abbott Lawrence, a foremost Boston mer- 
chant in his time. Farther down, at No. 4, is the publishing house 
of Houghton, Mifflin & Co., occupying the old Qui/icy mansion /loicse, 
the winter home of the elder Josiah Quincy (whose statue we shall 
presently see) through the last seven years of his long, eventful, and 
useful life of nearly ninety-two years. Near the end of the short line, 
No. 2 was the last Boston 
home of the kistoruiJt ATotley, 
just prior to his appointment 
as United States minister to 
England in 1869. 

Now turning our steps 
down Beacon Street east- 
ward, we pass in close 
neighborhood the Unitarian 
Building, at the corner of 
Bowdoin Street; directly 
opposite, the Congregational 
House ; and next to this the 
Boston Atheneeum. 

The Unitarian Building, a low, Moorish-like structure of brownstone 
(built 1 885-1 886), is the headquarters of the American Unitarian Asso- 
ciation, and the general denominational house, where are the offices of 
various organizations, national, state, and local. Cha.nning Hall here, 
and neighboring rooms, are embellished with portraits and busts of 
Unitarian leaders. The Congregational House, a building of stone and 
brick, ornamented with sculptured, tablets (built 1897-1898), is the head- 
quarters of the Congregational Trinitarian denomination. The emblem- 
atic sculptures on the facade represent respectively, from east to 
west : Law, depicting the Signing of the Compact in the cabin of the 
Mayflower^ November 21, 1620; Religion, the observance of Sunday 
on Clark's Island on the day before the landing at Plymouth ; Educa- 
tion, the act of the General Court of Massachusetts passed October 28, 
1636, appropriating money for a " schoole or colledge" ; and Philan- 
thropy, the preaching of the apostle Eliot to the Indians at Waban's 
wigwam on old Nonantum Hill, Newton, October, 1646. In this 
building are established the Congregational Library and the Missionary 
Library of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 
with the remarkable Pratt Collection, in the Bible Room, embracing 




46 



BOSTON ATIIENyliUM 



Hebrew rolls, various editions of the Scriptures, palm books, biblical 
and other charts, relics, and antiquities. The head offices of the 
American Board are here. Pilgrim Hall is in the rear from the main 
entrance. 

The Boston Athenaeum, presenting a classic front of brown freestone, 
in marked contrast with its lofty neighbors, dates from 1849. The 
literary institution for which it was erected dates back to 1807. This 
had its origin in the Monthly Anthology, a magazine first published 
in 1803, of which the Rev. William Emerson, 
father of Ralph Waldo Emerson, was the prin- 
cipal editor. The persons who became interested 
in that "journal of polite literature" — a remark- 
able set of cultivated young men — formed the 
"Anthology Club," and collected a library, which 

^_ was incoq^orated in 1807 as the Boston Athe- 

-l^glnP^n^> ^ nasum. Quarters were first found in Congress 
l^i^ ^TFi.— ~ Street, then in a Pearl Street mansion house 

^— « - presented to the institution (1821), and later this 

building was built by the coi-poration. For many 
years the Athenxum had in connection with its 
library a valuable art gallery, but the best paint- 
ings of its collection have been transferred to 
the Museum of Fine Arts, Back Bay. It now 
possesses over 200,000 volumes, many of them 
rare; a large collection of Braun photographs 
and art works ; files of early newspapers ; the 
Bemis collection of works on international law, 
including state papers, etc., for the increase of 
which there is a substantial fund ; one of the very best sets of United 
States documents in the country ; the best collection in existence of 
books published in the South during the Civil War ; and a large part 
of George Washington's private library, with many works relating to 
the first President. The Stuart portrait of Washington now at the 
Art Museum is owned by the Athenaeum. 




-.K 



^ 






The Atheneeum became early a center of the new literary and artistic life which 
was to make Boston famous in Emerson's time. From it came, more or less 
directly, the old and scholarly North A}>icricaii Rcvic7v ; and most of tlie literary 
societies and libraries of to-day in Boston owe their origin entirely or in part to 
the influence of the Athenajum and its founders. The institution is managed by 
trustees elected by its 1049 shareholders, known as " proprietors." The income 
is derived from invested funds and from an annual assessment upon each share 
in use. Some famous men of New England have been among the proprietors of 



BOSTON UNIVERSITY 



47 



the Athenaeum, including Daniel Webster, Charles Sumner, Holmes, Parkman, 
and Prescott. William F. Poole, who originated Poole's Index, was at one time 
its librarian. Arthur Theodore Lyman is the present president, and Charles 
Knowles Bolton is the librarian. 

The stout old-fashioned granite building below the bend of Beacon 
Street, at the lower comer of Somerset Street, is the Old Congrega- 
tional House ^ preceding the present one. It was originally a double 
mansion house, built soon after the War of 1812, and a costly affair 
for its day. 

In Somerset Street, a few steps from the corner, is Jacob Sleeper 
Hall, the general building of Boston University (chartered 1869, for 
both sexes). In this building are established the School of Liberal 
Arts, which constitutes the academic department, and the School of 
All Sciences. Near by, on Ashbnrton Place, opening from Somerset 
Street, is the School of Law. Within a ten-minute walk is the School 
of Theology, at 72 Mt. Vernon Street, West End. The other depart- 
ment of the university, the School of Medicine, is at the South End, 
on East Concord Street, adjacent to the Massachusetts Homeopathic 
Hospital. Next to Jacob Sleeper Hall are the rooms of the Twentieth 
Century Club, w^hich concerns itself with many reforms, social, govern- 
mental, and philanthropic. Farther dow^n this street, at No. 18, is the 
house of the New England Historic Genealogical Society (founded 1844, 
incorporated 1845). Here is a valuable library of more than 50,000 
volumes and over 100,000 pamphlets, comprising the best known col- 
lection of genealogical works, biographies, and histories, American and 
English. From fifty to two hundred visitors, students in genealogy 
and compilers, make daily use of this extensive collection. The 
society also possesses numerous rare manuscripts and historical relics. 
It publishes the "New England Historical and Genealogical Register" 
(established 1847). 

John Ward Dean was for a long period the librarian of this society. The 
present president is the Hon. James Phinney Baxter, of Portland, Maine ; the 
present secretary, George A. Gordon ; the librarian, William P. Greenlaw ; and 
the editor of publications, Henry E. Woods. 

On Beacon Street again, the modem office building occupying the 
comer of Tremont Place covers the site of a row of pleasant houses 
which slowly changed from dwellings to business places. The comer 
one was the sometime home of Nathan Hale, where Ed^vard Everett 
Hale passed his boyhood when he was attending the Latin School. 
The end one in the row was latterly the publishing house of Ginn 
&= Cojnpany, from which they removed to the Hancock-house site, 
29 Beacon Street. 



48 



FIRST SCHOOLIIOUSE 



Crossing crowded Tremont Street we enter more crowded School 
Street, one of the most traveled and one of the shortest thoroughfares 
in the city. Just below King's Chapel we are at the site of the first 
schoolhouse of the first public school, which is continued in the present 
Public Latin School, now at the South End (Warren Avenue, Dartmouth 
and Montgomery streets). A bronze tablet set on the first stone post 
of the fence in front of the City Hall is inscribed with its story : On 
this spot stood the First House erected for the use of the Boston Public Latin 
School. This school has been constantly fnaintained since it was estab- 
lished by the following vote of 
the tozvn : At a meeting upon 
public notice it was generally 
agreed that our brother Phile- 
mon Po7'viont shall be en- 
treated to become schoolmaster 
for the teaching and mirtJir- 
ing of children with us. April 

This schoolhouse stood 
where the chancel and pulpit 
of King's Chapel are now. It 

gave the street its name. 

It was built in 1645 (previous 
to which the school was held in 
the master's house), and remained 
on this spot for upward of a cen- . 
tury. Then in 1748 another build- 
ing was erected on the opposite 
side where is now the Parker 
House. Tlie present is the fifth 
building of the school. In the long roll of Latin School pupils appear the names 
of Franklin, Hancock, Samuel Adam5, and Robert Treat Paine; Cotton IMather, 
Henry Ward Beecher, James Freeman Clarke, Edward Everett Hale, and Phillips 
Urooks; Ralph Waldo Emerson, John Lothrop Motley, and Francis Parkman ; 
Presidents Leverett, Langdon, Everett, and Eliot of Harvard University; Charles 
Francis Adams, Sr., Charles Sumner, and William M. Evarts. 




Boston City Hall 



The heavy granite City Hall (l)uill 1S62-1S65), of elaborate design, 
calls only for a passing glance. It succeeded a Bulfinch building on 
the same site, — a Court House (predecessor of the present "Old Court 
House "), refitted for a City Hall. The bronze statues in the yard are 
more interesting. That of Benjamin Franklin was the first portrait 
statue set up in Boston (1S56). It is the work of Richard Creenough. 



CITY HALL 



49 



^ he fund for its erection was raised by popular subscription. The four 
bronze medallions in the sunken panels of the pedestal represent as 
many periods in Franklin's career. 

The other statue, of Josiah Quijicy, is by Thomas liall, and was 
placed in 1S79. ^^ represents the elder Quincy as he ai)peared in mid- 
dle life when mayor of Boston. The base is a block of Quincy granite. 
A marble statue by William 
W. Story, in Memorial Hall 
at Cambridge, represents 
Quincy in later life, or when 
president of the college. 

We may stop a moment at 
the building next beyond the 
foot passage by the side of 
the City Hall (another court 
dignified with the term of 
avenue), and observe the in- 
scribed fi)'e-back set in its vesti- 
bule wall. The inscription 
relates that on this site from 
1 785 to 181 5 was the dwelling 
of Dr. John Warren (brother 
of Joseph Warren, killed at 
Bunker Hill), who was the 
first professor of anatomy 
and surgery in Harvard Uni- 
versity. The fire-back came 

, , T , Old C( 

from the old house. 

At the end of School Street the ancient building long known as the 
"Old Corner Bookstore" lingers a weathered old relic of the past in 
one of the busiest quarters, although the booksellers have finally left 
it. It dates from 171 2. It has been a book stand since 1828. Its 
interest lies particularly in its literary associations, for in what is regarded 
now as the golden age of Boston literary activity — about the middle 
and third quarter of the nineteenth century — it was the chief literary 
lounge and calling place of the city. This was especially the character- 
istic of the "Old Corner" during the long years of its occupancy by 
Ticknor & Fields and their immediate successors. 

The " Curtained Corner" of James T. Fields in the back part of the old book- 
shop has been much discoursed upon. George William Curtis in the " Easy 
Chair" called it " the exchange of wit, the Rialto of current good things, the hub 
of the hub. It was a very remarkable group of men, — ipdeed it was the first 




50 



OLD SOUTH MEETINGHOUSE 



group of really great American authors which familiarly frequented the corner 
as guests of Fields." 



Previous to this building there was here the Hutchinson Homestead, 
,here lived that colonial dame, Anne Hutchinson, strong of mind and 
keen of wit, one of John Cotton's old Boston-in- 
England parishioners, who became the central figure 
in the violent antinomian controversy which tore the 
Colony in 1637-1638, and who was finally banished 
for heresy. In her little home here she instituted the 
weekly gathering of women to discuss the Sunday 
sermon after the fashion of the men, and so she is 
credited with having set up the first woman's club in 
America. 

The Old South Building opposite, the monumental 
business structure of stone and steel spreading 
between Spring Lane and around the Old South 
Meetinghouse to Milk Street, covers near its south- 
east end the site of Winthrop's second mansion 
(where he died), which was afterward and until the 
Revolution the parsonage house of the Old South, 
and which the British demolished together with the 
shading row of butternut trees before it, using them 
for firewood during the Siege. The tall walls of the 
ornate building close against the plain brick meet- 
inghouse and reaching above its tower, dwarf the 
historic structure, but add to its uniqueness. When 
the tower porch is arched, as is proposed, for the 
sidewalk which is to be brought to the inner line 
of the widened street at that point, its appearance 
will further be improved. 

The Old South is now a loan museum of Revo- 
lutionary and other relics. Colonial furniture, and 
portraits, open to the public for a modest fee, which 
goes to meet the cost of its maintenance. The 
interior is restored as far as possible to the aspect which it bore in the 
prerevolutionary period, when it was the scene of those great town meet- 
ings, too large for the old Faneuil Hall, which "kindled the flame that 
fired the Revolution," and in commemoration of which the meeting- 
house came to be called the " Sanctuary of Freedom." The tablet 
on the tower, over which the Boston ivy spreads, is inscribed with 
these historic dates : 




Old South Church 



OLD SOUTH MEETINGHOUSE 51 

Old South 

Church gathered 1669 

First House built 1670 

This House erected 1729 

Desecrated by British troops 1775-6 

The preservation of the meetinghouse is directly due to the efforts 
of an organization of twenty-five Boston women, under the title of the 
" Old South Preservation Committee," formed in the centennial year 
of 1876, at a critical juncture, when its demolition was imminent 
through the sale of the property for mercantile purposes. Public 
interest was aroused, " preservation meetings " were held with lectures, 
addresses, and poems by Emerson, Henry Lee, Lowell, Holmes, and 
others ; and finally this organization succeeded — Mrs. Mary Hemenway 
contributing ^100,000 — in purchasing the estate subject to certain 
restrictions for ^430,000. It is now used for the Old South Lecttires 
to Young People, instituted by Mrs. Hemenway to promote among 
American youth a " more serious and intelligent attention to histor- 
ical studies, especially studies in American History," of which Edwin 
D. Mead is the director. 

The town meetings of greatest moment held here were those of June 14 and 
15, 1768, upon the matter of the impressment of Massachusetts men by the com- 
mander of his majesty's ship of war Romiicy ; the long afternoon and early 
evening meeting of March 6, 1770, the day after the Boston Massacre, which 
brought about the removal of the British regiments from the town ; and the anti- 
tea meetings between November 27 and December 16, 1773, culminating with the 
" Tea Party " and the emptying of the cargoes of the tea ships into the harbor. 
The series of orations commemorative of the Boston Massacre was delivered 
here, Dr. Joseph Warren, three months before he was killed it Bunker Hill, pro- 
nouncing the second one, upon which occasion he was introduced througlra window 
in the rear of the pulpit, the entrance doors and the aisles, and even the pulpit 
steps, being occupied by British soldiers and officers. During the Siege, when the 
meetinghouse was used as a riding school by Burgoyne's regiment of light dra- 
goons, the floor was cleared for their exercises, and cart loads of earth and gravel 
were spread over it. The pulpit, the pews, and all the inside structures except 
the sounding-board and the east galleries were taken out and most of them burned 
for fuel. One " beautiful carved pew," with silken furnishings, was carried off to 
a neighboring house and "made a hog stye" of. The east galleries were fitted 
for spectators, and in one of them was a refreshment bar. The south door was 
closed and a pole was fixed here over which the cavalry were taught to leap their 
horses at full speed. In the winter a stove was set up, in which were used for 
kindling many of the precious books and manuscripts of the Rev. Thomas 
Prince's New England Library, then deposited in the " steeple-room " of the 
tower. The manuscript of Bradford's "History of Plimoth " (see p. 43), and 
that of the third volume of Winthrop's Journal among them, were spared. In 



52 BENJAMIN FRANKLIN'S ElRTllPLACE 

this tower study the Rev. Jeremy Belknap, the historian and the recognized 
founder of the Massachusetts Historical Society, did much work. 

The meetinghouse which preceded this, a " little house of cedar," was the one 
which Andros obliged the regular church organization to share with the first 
Episcopal church (see p. 24). That, too, was the place where Judge Samuel 
Sewall in 1697 pubUshed his " confession of contrition " for his share as a witch- 
craft judge in the " blood-guiltiness " at Salem five years before. It was also the 
meetinghouse where Benjamin Franklin was baptized on the day of his birth, 
January 17 (6 O. S.), 1706. 

In the neighborhood of the Old South is the newspaper quarter, 
Neivspaper Kow, extending below the curve of Washington Street, 
northward. Near it, also on Washington Street and Bromfield Street, 
are popular bookshops. 

From the Old South to the " Tea Party " Site. At the Old South we 
turn into Milk Street, but before doing so we should identify the site 
of the Province House, the official residence of the royal governors, cele- 
brated in Hawthorne's " Legends of the Province House." This build- 
ing stood nearly opposite the meetinghouse, well back from Washington 
Street, above a handsome lawn ornamented by two noble oaks at the 
street front. A bit of its wall yet remains backing upon Province Court, 
which is reached from Washington Street by a foot passage. 

It was a stately house of brick, three stories, with gambrel roof, and a high 
cupola surmounted by a figure of an Indian with drawn bow and arrow, another 
specimen of the handiwork of " Deacon " Shem Drowne, maker of the grass- 
hopper on Faneuil Hall. The approach was by a high flight of stone steps 
leading to a portico, over which appeared the royal arms in deal and gilt. It 
long outlived the Province period. After the Revolution it served the Com- 
monwealth a while as the Government House, for the sittings of the governor 
and council, and for state offices. Thereafter it fell to commercial uses, and in 
its latter days it was a hall of negro minstrelsy. It finally passed, all but the bit 
of wall, in a fire in 1864. It was built originally for a dwelling by an opulent 
merchant, Peter Sergeant, in 1667. The Province bought it for a governor's 
house in 171 5. The Indian was preserved and is now in the collection of the 
Massachusetts Historical Society. 

Province Street and Province Court led to the rear grounds of the Province 
House. After the Revolution Province Street was for some time called the 
Governor's Alley. 

On A/ilk Street we pass the site of Benjamin Franklin's Birthplace, 
covered by the building No. 17, nearly opposite the side of the Old 
South, which bears on its front the legend " Birthplace of Franklin," 
with a bust of the philosopher. 

A little farther down, on the left, is the Federal Building, including 
the Post Office and the Federal courts, a gloomy pile of granite, chiefly 



FORT lllLL SgUAKK 



53 



mterestmg fm- its service in checking at this point the sweep of the 
Great tire of November 9-10, 1872, the gravest of all great Boston 
hies. In the wall at the Milk and Devonshire streets corner is a 
tablet commemorating that disaster, from which the city was quick 
to recover. It states that this fire, "beginning at the southea.sterly 
corner of Summer and Kingston Streets, extended over an area of sixty 
acres, destroyed within the business center of the city property to the 
value of more than sixty million dollars, and was arrested in its north- 
easterly progress at this point. The mutilated stones of this buildinL^ 
also record that event." 

Federal Street, next below Devonshire Street, southward, is one of 
the mam avenues to the South Statwn. It has two histortc sites 
covered by business buildings. These are at or about the western 
corners of Franklin Street, the first street crossing Federal. One 
(northwest corner) is the site of the Federal Street Theater, the first 
regular playhouse in Boston, designed by Bulfinch and erected in 
1794- The other is that of the Federal Street Church, the Boston 
pulpit of William Ellery Channing from 1803 till his death in 184-^ 

We continue two blocks farther down Milk Street to Pearl Street 
which opens from the lower end of Post Office Square, upon which 
the Federal Building fronts. Near the north side of this square is the 
site of the first office of the Liberator, the dingy little attic room where, 
in 1 83 1, William Lloyd Garrison began his most aggressive antislaveiy 
editorial work. The building stood on the northeast comer of Congress 
and Water streets until it was swept off in the fire of 1872. 

When Garrison was mobbed in 1835, and was given refuge in the Old State 
House then the City Hall, the Liberator office was on Washington Street in 
a building backing on Wilson's Lane, now Devonshire Street, where the attack 
upon him began. 

Turning into Pearl Street we follow it to its end at Atlantic Avenue, 
where is the " Tea Party" site. Along the way we cross High Street, 
and looking down this street eastward we see in the distance the 
poplar trees of Fort Hill Square, which marks the site of Fort Hill, one 
of the three original hills of Boston, which was leveled in 1 867-1872. 
The hill got its name from the fort which was erected on its summit in 
1632, the first fort on the peninsula. It was then at the eastern extrem- 
ity of the town, directly opposite the harbor. In the second fort here, 
built in 16S7, Andros took refuge at the time of the revolution which 
overthrew his government. 

The "Tea Party Wharf" was near the western line of the present 
Atlantic Avenue, close by Pearl Street. The tablet which we see on 



54 TlIK NORTH END 

the avenue front of the building occupying the northern corner of 
the two streets marks the site as nearly as possible. The inscription, 
beneath the model of a tea ship, tells the story of the party concisely: 

Here formerly stood 
GRIFFIN'S WHARF 
at which lay moored on Dec. i6, 1773, three 
British ships with cargoes of tea. To defeat 
King George's trivial but tyrannical tax 
of three pence a pound, about ninety 
citizens of Boston, partly disguised 
as Indians, boarded the ships, 
threw the cargoes, three hun- 
dred and forty-two chests 
in all, into the sea, 
and made the world 
ring with the patriotic 
exploit of the 
BOSTON TEA PARTY. 

'■^ No, ne'er -was mingled such a draught 
In palace^ hall, or arbor, 
As freemen brewed attd tyrants q2iaffed 
That night in Boston HarborP 

At this point we can take a surface car or, by walking to the next 
station northward, an elevated train, and ride to the North End for our 
exploration of that quarter. It is better, however, to take a south- 
bound car and return by way of Dewey Square (passing the South 
Station) and Summer Street to Washington Street, making our entry 
into the North End by the customary route from Scollay Square. 



2. The North End 

The North End (see Plate III), though now bereft of many of the 
landmarks that once gave it an antique flavor and a peculiar charm to 
seekers of things old and historic, is yet a quarter to which the much- 
•worn term "unique" may justly be applied. There still remain a few 
landmarks of great interest, and " historic sites " abound in this small 
and compact district. The first "court end" of the town, where the 
gentry had their fine mansions beside the many quaint humbler houses 
of the early Colonial period, it is now the foreign quarter of the city, 
with foreign signs in dingy shops and a swarming population of Rus- 
sians, Armenians, Israelites, Norwegians, Poles, Italians saluting our 
ears with a jargon of tongues. 



GREEN DRAGON TAVERN 



55 



We approach the North End by way of Hanover Street, which runs 
from Scollay Square to the Chelsea Ferry on the water front. 

At Union Street, the cross street next below Washmgton Street 
extension, we come to two historic sites of first importance. One is 
the site of the Green Dragon Tavern, the " headquarters of the Revo- 
kition." This stood on Union Street, a few steps off from the left side 
of Hanover Street. The spot is marked by a business building (No. 8i, 
left side), high up on the face of which is a stone effigy of the tavern 
sign, — a sheet-copper, green-painted repre- ,>^ 

sentation of a creature of forked tongue and ^ -, ^ ''CS*""- 
curled tail, which couched upon an iron crane 
projecting over the entrance door. The tavern 
existed from i6So or thereabouts, through 
Colonial, Provincial, and Republican days, till 
the twenties of the nineteenth centuiy, when 
the lane which bore its name was widened to 
form the present street. 



It was at the Green Dragon that the prerevo- 
liitionary leaders held their secret councils and 
formed their plans of campaign. Here the Tea 
Party originated. It was the rendezvous of the 
night patrol of Boston Mechanics, instituted to keep 
watch upon the British and Tory movements. It 
was the chief meeting place of the " North End 
Corcus," one of the three clubs composed of patriot ^'^^ 

leaders and followers, which added the word ^ 

" caucus " to our political nomenclature. It was also ths first Free Masons' hall, 
the pioneer St. Andrews Lodge having been organized here in 1752, and in 1769 
the first Grand Lodge of tlie Province, with Dr. Joseph Warren as Grand Master 
and Paul Revere a subordinate ofificer. 




The other site is that of Josiah Franklin's dwelling and chandlery shop, 
at "the sign of the Blue Ball," the boyhood home of Benjamin P'ranklin, 
where he worked for his father at candle-making and tended the 
shop. Near by was the "salt marsh " by the Mill Pond, on the edge of 
which he fished for minnows. The " Blue Ball " stood near the south- 
east comer of the junction of Union and Hanover streets. It held its 
place till the middle of the nineteenth century, when it was demolished 
in the widening of Hanover Street at this point. Its site is included in 
the street way. 

A stone's throw up Union Street (eastward) Marshall's Lane (now 
officially called street) opens from the left side, — one of the alleys or 
"short cuts" of old Boston, through which we must pass. It will bring 



56 "IJOSTOX STONE, 1737" 

us back to Hanover Street close to the cross street next l:)elow Union 
Street. 

As we enter Marshall's Lane from Union Street v.e cannot fail to 
notice the low-browed brick building of eighteenth-century fashion 
which occupies the upper comer of the lane and street. This is inter- 
esting as the place where Benjamin Thompson of IVobiirn, who became 
Sir Benjamin Thompson and then Count Rumford, was a clerk or 
apprentice in his youth in Hopestill Capen's shop, selling imported 
stuffs to the fashionable folk of the provincial town. At the outbreak 
of the Revolution the Massachusetts Spy, afterward of Worcester, was 
printed on the upper floor of this building. 

Soon our lane makes a junction with another, — Creek Lane, which 
originally led to the Mill Creek, where is now Blackstone Street, as 
Marshall's Lane first led to the Mill Bridge across the creek. Here we 
see set against the base of a building a rough piece of stone" with a 
spherical one on top of it marked "Boston Stone, 1737." -This is only 
the relic of a paint mill which a painter brought out from England 
about 1700 and used in his shop close by. Perhaps he was Tom Child 
by name, to whom Sewall alludes in his diary: " Nov. 10, 1706. This 
morning Tom Child the Painter died." The monument was set up 
here some time after the painter's day, in imitation of the London Stone, 
to serve as a direction for shops in the neighborhood. A similar guide 
post, called the Union Stone, stood for some years at the entrance of 
the lane by Hopestill Capen's shop. In the front of the building at 
the outlet of the lane, on Hanover Street, is a carved reproduction of 
the London Painters' Guild, which is said to have been the sign of the 
painter who used the " Boston Stone." 

Opposite this monument we see, in the worn old structure on the 
comer of Creek Lane, the office of Ebsnezer Hancock (brother of John 
Hancock), deputy paymaster general of the Continental army, where 
were deposited the funds in French crowns brought out by d'Estaing 
from America's ally, the king of France, which went to pay the arrears 
of the otficers of the Continental line. The block beyond, facing Creek 
Lane, is "Hancock Row," built for stores by John Hancock after the 
peace. 

Again on Hanover Street, we cross to the other side and enler Salem 
Street^ which starts off obliquely from Hanover Street and then runs 
parallel with it. Now we are fairly within the North End. It is a curious 
street, with strange denizens. In early Colony days it was fair Green 
Lane, upon which it was the dream of prospering Bostonians to live. 
At the corner of Stillman Street is the site of the first Baptist meeting- 
house, erected in 1679, ^'"^ ^^^ border of the open Mill Pond then on this 



IN AND AliOUT NORTH SnUARK 57 

side. This was the meetinghouse which was closed against the pro- 
scribed sect and its doors nailed up in 1680 by order of the court; 
when the undaunted society held their services in the meetinghouse 
yard. Its descendant is the present First Baptist Church on Common- 
wealth Avenue, Back Bay. Prince Street, intersecting Salem Street mid- 
way, presences more of the old-time aspect than other streets of the 
(juarter. This street (first in part Black Horse Lane) was the direct 
way from the North End to the Charlestown ferry (where is now the 
Charlestown Bridge), and after the battle of Bunker Hill numbers of 
the wounded British were brought here to houses which were turned 
into temporary hospitals. The most important of these emergency hos- 
pitals was a fine new house near the lower end of Prince Street at the 
comer of Lafayette Street. This remained until the end of the nine- 
teenth century, being occupied for some years by a grandson of one of 
the Boston Tea Party. Another on Prince Street, nearer Salem Street, 
IS the so-called Stoddard house, a narrow brick dwelling, still standing 
(No. 130). It is said that Major Pitcairn was brought to this house 
and died here from his wounds. On the westerly corner of Prince and 
Margaret streets is the house where long lived John Tileston, the school 
master, the rigid but beloved master for two thirds of a century of the 
oldest North End school, which became the Eliot School. 

In and about North Square. Taking Prince Street at the right we 
cross Hanover Street and enter North Square. This squalid trian- 
gular inclosure was the central point of the North End in its "elegant " 
days, when it was adorned with trees and dignified by neighboring 
mansions. It is now the heart of the Italian colony. At its outlet 
upon North Street is the one landmark here of historic value. This is 
the little low house of wood, hedged in by ambitious modem structures, 
marked as the home of Paul Revere. It was the versatile patriot's 
dwelling from about 1770 through the Revolution and until 1800, when, 
having prospered in his foundry, he bought a finer house on Charter 
Street near by and there spent the remainder of his days. This North 
Square house w^as old when Revere moved into it from his earlier home 
on North Street (then Fish Street). It was built soon after the great 
fire of 1676 in place of Increase Mather's house, the parsonage of the 
North Church, which went down with the meetinghouse in that 
disaster. 

It was in the upp?r windows of this North Square house that on the evening 
of the Boston Massacre Revere displayed those awful illustrated pictures 
which, we read, struck the assembly of spectators " with solemn silence," while 
"their countenances were covered with a melancholy gloom." And well might 
they have shuddered. In the middle window appeared a realistic view of the 



58 OLD NORTH CHURCH 

" massacre." In the north window was shown the " Genius of Liberty," a sitting 
figure holding aloft a liberty cap and trampling under foot a soldier hugging a 
serpent, the emblem of military tyranny. In the south window was an obelisk 
displaying the names of the five victims, in front of which was a bust of the boy 
Snider, killed a few days before the " massacre " in a struggle before a Tory shop 
which had been " marked " as one not to be patronized ; and behind the bust a 
shadowy, gory figure, with these lines beneath : 

Snider's pale ghost fresh bleeding stands 
And Vengeance for his death demands. 

Just below this house, at about the comer of North and Richmond 
streets, stood the Red Lion Inn of early Colony days, kept by Nicholas 
Upsall, befriender of the proscribed Quakers, — the " Upsall gray with 
his length of days" of the "King's Missive,'' — who suffered banish- 
ment and imprisonment for his friendly acts. On Richmond Street 
was the birthplace of Charlotte Cushman (bom 1816), whose name is 
perpetuated in the Cushman School near by. 

At the head of the square, on the north side, is the site of the Old 
North Church, which the British pulled down and used for firewood 
during the Siege. It stood between Garden Court and Moon streets. 
It w'as the second meetinghouse of the Second Church in Boston 
(instituted in 1649), built upon the ruins of the first one, bumed in the 
fire of 1676. It became popularly known as the Church of the Mathers, 
from Increase, Cotton, son of Increase, and Samuel, son of Cotton 
Mather, successively its ministers. In the prerevolutionary period /(?/?« 
Lathrop, a stanch patriot, was its minister, and it was the church which 
Revere attended. 

After the Revolution the lot upon which it had stood was set apart for the 
dwelling of Mr. Lathrop (who continued the minister till his death in 1816), 
and the society acquired the " New Brick Church " in the near neighborhood 
on Hanover vStreet, the successor of which was the Cockerel Church, so called 
from a copper weathercock which crowned its steeple — still another piece of 
"Deacon" Shem Drowne's clever work — and is now still doing service on the 
steeple of the Shepard Memorial Church in Cambridge. Mr. Lathrop's house 
on the old church lot was large and comfortable in appearance, with a row of 
poplars in the front yard, and on the Moon Street corner a weeping willow. 
These were all blown down in the destructive September gale of 18 15. 

The descendant of the Old North is the ivy-clad Second Church on 
Copley Square. Ralph Waldo Emerson was a minister of the Second 
Church from 1829 to 1832. 

In Garden Court Street stood the stately mansion of Governor Thomas 
Hutchinson (his birthplace), which was sacked and partly destroyed 
with much of its contents by the anti-Stamp-Act mob on the night of 



CHRIST CHURCH AND COPP'S HILL 59 

August 26, 1765. It was a house of generous proportions, built of 
brick, painted " stone color," and set in ample grounds, the garden 
extending on one side to Fleet Street and back to Hanover Street. 
The interior was rich in finish and adornments. It is well pictured, 
although with fanciful touches, in Lydia Maria Child's early his- 
torical romance, " The Rebels, A Tale of the Revolution," published 
in 1852. It was here that Hutchinson wrote his "History of 
Massachusetts." 

The first volume was published in 1764. When the house was pillaged the 
second volume lay in the rich library in manuscript almost ready for the press. 
It was thrown out with other precious books and papers, and " left lying in the 
street for several hours in a soaking rain." But most fortunately all but a few 
sheets were carefully collected and saved by the Rev. Andrew Eliot, minister of 
the " New North " Cinirch, living near by on Hanover Street, and the author 
was enabled to transcribe the whole and publish it two years later. 

Hutchinson and his family made their hurried escape from the house just 
before the mob reached it, finding refuge in neighboring dwellings. Hutchinson 
was first harbored in Samuel Mather's house on Moon Street, but was obliged to 
seek another refuge to avoid the threatening mob. 

Also occupying Garden Court Street with the Hutchinson house, and 
of similar elegance, was the Clark-Frankland mansion, so called from 
William Clark, a rich merchant who built it, and Si?- Harry Fratikland, 
who afterward lived in it. J. Fenimore Cooper pictured this house in 
" Lionel Lincoln," in his description of the residence of " Mrs. Lech- 
mere," which he placed on Tremont Street ; and Edwin L. Bynner por- 
trayed it in his novel of " Agnes Surriage." Both of these mansions 
lingered in picturesque decay till the thirties of the nineteenth century, 
when the Bell Alley entrance to the square was widened into Prince 
Street. 

During the Siege North Square was a military rendezvous with bar- 
racks for the soldiers, their officers occupying the comfortable dwellings 
about it. The building on the east side by Moon Street, now an Italian 
church, was originally '■'■Father Taylor's Bethel,'''' a sailors' church, built 
in the early part of the nineteenth century, long conducted by the Rev. 
Edward T. Taylor, one of nature's orators and a bom minister to 
seafaring men. 

Christ Church and Copp's Hill. Now we return to Salem Street, cross- 
ing Hanover Street and passing through North Bennet or Tileston Street, 
either of which will bring us close to Christ Church and Copp's Hill, 
the predominating historic features of the North End to-day. As we 
cross Hanover Street w^e should give a glance at a little low house 
crowded back from the street line (a second stoiy and roof above a 



6o 



CHRIST CHURCH 



projecting store) on the west side, just below North Bennet Street. 
This is a remnant of the house built in 1677 by Increase Mather after 
the fire in North Square. It was Dr. Mather's home till his death in 
1723. Afterward it was long occupied by the Rev. Andrew Eliot and 
his son, John Eliot, ministers successively of the 
New North Church. From these ministerial occu- 
pants it is called the Mather-Eliot house. On North 
Beniiet Street vi2L.s the first grammar school in the north 
part of the town, established in 17 13, and on Ti/eston 
Street (named for the old schoolmaster) was the first 
writing school in the North End, begun in 171 8. This 
street was at that time Love Lane, so called not from 
any sentimental characteristic that it possessed, but 
from a family by the name of Love who owned prop- 
erty about it. 

Christ Church is the oldest church edifice now 
standing in Boston, older by six years than the Old 
South, and by thirty years than King's Chapel. It 
was the second Episcopal church established in 
Boston. The comer stone was laid in April, 1723, 
when the Rev. Samuel Myles, then rector of King's 
Chapel, officiated, accompanied, says the record, "by 
the gentlemen of his congregation." The ceremony 
closed with the prayer, " May the gates of Hell never 
prevail against it." It was certainly built well to 
withstand the issaults of time. The stone side walls 
are two and a half feet thick, and the construction 
throughout is substantial. The brick tower is of four 
iloors. The first spire was described as the "most 
elegant in the town." That was blown down in a 
gale in October, 1805, but the present one, erected 
three years later, is said to be a faithful copy of it, 
])reserving its proportions and symmetry. This tower 
has additional interest in that it was made from a 
model by Btil finch. The tower chimes of eight 
bells, still the most melodious of any in the city, 
were first hung in 
esting inscription. 
The tablet on the tower front bears tl 
lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church April iS, 
/77J', warned the country of the 7fiarch of the British troops to Lexingtoii 
and Concord. 



Christ Chirch 
Salem Street 



744. Each bell has an inter- 
is familiar legend : The orik^inal 



CHRIST CIIUKCII 6i 

This tablet was set in 1S78, the statement it conveys being substan- 
tiated by several local historical authorities. Other recognized authori- 
ties, chief among them Richard Frothingham, the historian of the Siege 
of Boston, place these signal lantenis on the tower of the true Old 
North Church — the meetinghouse in North Square which the British 
destroyed. That Gage witnessed the battle of Bunker Hill from this 
tower is an undisputed statement. 

The interior of the church retains much of the old-time aspect. 
Among the mural ornaments is Houdon's bust of Washington, the first 
monumental effigy of Washington set up in the country. It was placed 
here only ten years after Washington's death. The figures of the cher- 
ubim in front of the organ and the brass chandeliers, destined originally 
for a Canadian convent, were given to the church in 1758 by the master 
of an English privateer, who captured them from a French ship on the 
high seas. An ancient "Vinegar Bible" and the old prayer books are 
still in use. The silver communion service includes several pieces bear- 
ing the royal arms, which were gifts from George II in 1733, at the 
instance of the royal Governor Belcher. The clock below the rail has 
been in place since 1 746. 

Beneath the tower are old tombs. In one of them Major Pitcairn 
was temporarily buried. Some years later, when his monument was 
erected in Westminster Abbey and his English relatives sent for his 
remains, a box said to contain them was duly forwarded, but the 
grewsome tale is told that the sexton was not sure of his identification. 
The church is open to visitors for inspection upon application to the 
sexton ; fee, twenty-five cents. 

A block above, at the comer of Salem and Sheafe streets, is the site 
of the home of Robert Newman. He was the sexton of Christ Church 
in 1775 ^vho, according to the tradition that its steeple was the place 
of the Revere signals, hung them out at the instance of John Puling, a 
warden of the church, and in Revere's confidence. At the time British 
officers were quartered in this house upon the Newman family. It 
stood until 1889. Near by, on Sheafe Street, was the birthplace of the 
Rev. Samuel F. Smith, author of " America." 

Up Hull Street, opening directly opposite Christ Church, a few steps 
bring us to the main gate of Copp's Hill Burying Ground, — a mob of 
youthful guides of both sexes and various nationalities pressing us along 
the way, rattling off with glib tongue the " features " of the region, and 
offering to show them, all and several, for a nickel. Hull Street per- 
petuates the name of John Hull, the maker of the pine-tree shillings. 
It was originally cut through Hull's pasture (iii 1701), and the land for 
it was given by his daughter Hannah and Judge Sewall, her husband, 



62 COPP'S HILL 

on the happy condition that it should retain this name "forever." Of 
the few old houses permitted to remain here, but one need engage our 
attention. This one is on the south side, distinguished from its neigh- 
bors in standing endwise to the street. It is the Galloupe, or Gallop, 
house, so called, dating from 1722, which Gage's staff made their head- 
quarters during the battle of Bunker Hill. The Gallops who occupied 
it through two generations were lineal descendants of Captain John 
Gallop, the earliest pilot in Boston Harbor, among the "first comers" 
of 1630, for whom Gallop's Island in the harbor is named. He also lived 
in the North End, " near the shore, where his boat could ride safely at 
anchor." 

In the Copp's Hill of to-day we see only a small remnant of the 
original eminence, the northernmost of the three hills of the penin- 
sula upon which Boston was planted. It now consists of an embank- 
ment left after cuttings of the hill, protected on its steepest sides by a 
high stone wall. At the time of the battle of Bunker Hill, when its 
summit was occupied by the British batteiy whose shot, under the 
direction of Burgoyne and Clinton, set Charlestown on fire, it termi- 
nated abruptly on the northwest side, opposite Charlestown, in a high 
cliff. 

This battery stood near the southwest corner of the burying ground on land 
afterward cut down. Perhaps its site was the same as that of the windmill of a 
century earlier, brought over from Cambridge and set up here in 1653, to "grind 
the settlers' corn," thereby giving the hill its first name of " Windmill Hill." It 
got its name of Copp's from William Copp, an industrious cobbler, one of the 
first settlers, who owned a house and lot on its southeast corner near Prince 
Street. 

The bulging ground, which now goes under the general name of 
Copp's Hill, really comprises four cemeteries of different periods : the 
North Burial Ground (established in 1660, the same year as the Granary 
Burying Ground); the Hull Street (1707); the New North (1809); and 
the Charter Street (1819). The oldest section is the northeasterly part 
of the inclosure. It is the largest of the historic buiying grounds of 
the city, and is especially cherished as a picturesque breathing place in 
a squalid quarter, as well as for its associations. 

Among the noted graves or tombs which we may find here are those 
of the Revs. Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather; of Nicholas Upsall, 
the persecuted friend of the Quakers ; Deacon Shem Drowne, the 
" cunning artificer " ; the Rev. Jesse Lee, early preacher of Methodism 
in Boston, his first church being the Common, where Whitefield had 
preached fifty years before ; the Rev. Francis W. P. Greenwood, rector 
of King's Chapel 1824-1843; and Edmund Hartt, the builder of the 



COPP'S HILL 63 

frigate Constitution. The tomb of the Mathers is near the Charter 
Street gate. A large memorial stone with bullet marks on its face 
attracts attention. It stands, as the inscription states, above the " stone 
grave ten feet deep," of " Capt. Daniel Malcom, mercht, who departed 
this life October 23d 1769 aged 44 years: a true Son of Liberty, a 
Friend to the Public, an Enemy of Oppression, and One of the foremost 
in opposing the Revenue Acts in America." This stone was a favorite 
target with the British soldiers quartered in the neighborhood during 
the Siege, and the bullet marks were made by them. Another stone, 
which stands toward the northwest angle of the ground, is also curiously 
marked. This commemorates "Capt Thomas Lake, aged 61 yeeres, an 
eminently faithful servant of God & one of a public spirit," who was 
" pei-fidiovsly slain by ye Indians at Kennibeck, Avgvst ye 14th 1676, 
& here interred the 13 of March following." A deep slit is across its 
face, into which the bullets taken from the captain's body were poured 
after being melted. The lead was long ago all chipped out by vandals. 
Captain Lake was a commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artil- 
lery Company in 1662 and 1674. Near the middle of the ground is the 
triple gravestone of George Worthylake, the first keeper of the Boston 
Light in the harbor, who, wuth his wife and daughter, was drowned 
while coming up to tow^i in his boat one day in 17 18; which mournful 
event inspired Franklin's boyhood ballad of " The Lighthouse Tragedy," 
printed and peddled by him about the streets (see p. 17). One of the 
most notable monuments is to the memory of Major Samuel Shaw, 
the Revolutionaiy soldier, ancestor of Robert Gould Shaw. There are 
a number of vaults bearing elaborately sculptured slabs and displaying 
heraldic devices. 

Here, as in the other old burying grounds, acts of vandalism have 
been committed in the past in the removal of several stones from their 
proper places ; while sacrilegious hands have changed the dates on some 
stones by transforming a 9 into a 2, as in 1620 for 1690, or 1625 for 
1695. Others have taken stones away and utilized them in the con- 
struction of chimneys or drains ; and two or three tombs have been 
desecrated by the substitution of other names for the rightful ones 
upon them, and by their use for others than the famihes to whom they 
belonged. A flagrant case is the treatment of the Hutchinson tomb, 
with its armorial bearings. Here were once deposited the remains of 
Elisha and Thomas Hutchinson, grandfather and father, respectively, 
of Governor Hutchinson. But they were long ago scattered, and on 
the tomb in place of Hutchinson was cut the name of Lewis. The 
long-time and devoted superintendent of the burying ground, the late 
Edward MacDonald, did much to restore it to its proper condition, and 



64 



COPP'S HILL TERRACES 



he succeeded in recovering twenty-two of the stones that had been 
taken from it. 

The stone showing the oldest date in the inclosure is to the memory 
of the grandchildren of William Copp, for whom this hill was named. 
It is near the Shaw Monument. That part of the ground near Snowhill 
Street was originally used for the burial of slaves or freed people. Near 
the Charter Street gate is the " Napoleon willow," grown from a slip 
brought from the tree by the grave of Napoleon at St. Helena. 

Copp's Hill Terraces, back of the burying ground, on Charter Street, 
extending down to Commercial Street, with the North End Park and 

Beach on the water 
front beyond, finish 
up rarely this fine 
open space. The 
terraces and the park 
are parts of the be- 
neficent Boston City 
Parks System. 

With a short stroll 
along Charter Street 
back to Hanover 
Street and across to 
the water front, our 
survey of the North 
End finishes. Charter 
Street got its name in 
1708 from the Prov- 
ince Charter of 1692. Before that the street was a lane, and the lane 
was associated with the Colony Charter, for it is said that that docu- 
ment was hidden during the troublous days of 1681 in the house of 
John Foster, which stood at the corner of this and Foster Lane (now 
Street). On the westerly corner of Charter and Salem streets Str 
lViliia>?i Phips, the first royal governor, built his brick mansion house 
when he became prosperous, thus fulfilling his dream, when a poor 
ship carpenter, of some day living on " the Green Lane of North Bos- 
ton." Where is now Revere Place, off Charter Street near Hanover, 
was Paul Revere's last home. On Foster Street was his foundry. 

Taking Battery Street from Hanover Street, we pass to Atlantic 
Avenue and North Battery Wharf, the site of the North Battery. 
Constitution Wharf, the next wharf north, marks the site of Hartt's 
shipbuilding yard where "Old Ironsides" was built; also the frigate 
lUuton. Lewis's Wharf, southward, opposite the foot of Fleet Street, 




ON, Causeway Street 



THE CHAKLKSTOWX DISTRICT 65 

marks in part (its north side) tlie site of Hancock's Wharf, upon which 
were Hancock's warehouses. 

On Atlantic Avenue we can take an elevated train at the IJattery 
Street station (or surface cars, if we prefer) and return to our starting 
jioint at Scollay Scpiare. 



3. The Charlestown District 

The trip to Charlestown naturally follows the exploration of the 
North End. If we start from the latter quarter, taking an elevated 
train north (Battery Street station), we change at the North Station 
station to a Sullivan Square train. If, however, we elect to go from 
the business quarters, we have a choice of various trolley lines besides 
the elevated : some in the Subway (from Scollay Square station), others 
on the surface, several of the latter passing through Adams Square. 
The Chelsea cars pass by the Navy Yard. 

The elevated tracks, and surface tracks under them, pass over the 
new Charlestown Bridge (completed in 1900; composed of steel and 
stone; 1900 feet long, including the approaches, and 100 feet wide; 
draw operated by electricity; cost $1,400,000; built by the city of 
Boston). Trolley lines also cross the Warren liridge. 

All the "features" of Charlestown can be included within the com- 
pass of a short walk. Chief of them, of course, is Bunker Hill Monument. 
This is only a block from the second station of the elevated line in the 
district, — Thompson Square (the first station being City Square, at the 
end of Charlestown Bridge), — and about a ten-minute walk from City 
Square. The United States Navy Yard (established in 1800), occupying 
" Moulton's Point," the spot where the British troops landed for the 
battle, is next in popular interest. The main gate is at the junction of 
Wapping and Water streets, and Water Street opens from City Square. 
The yard is open daily to visitors, admitted by passes which are to be 
obtained at the main gate. It is an inclosure of nearly ninety acres, 
attractively laid out, and with many interesting features. The marine 
museum and naval library occupy the oldest building in the grounds 
near the entrance gate. Another near-by point of interest is Winthrop 
Square (about a five-minute walk from City Square), the early Colonial 
training field, w^here are memorial tablets bearing the names of the 
Americans who fell in the battle of Bunker Hill ; also a Soldiers' Monu- 
ment (Civil War) by Martin Milmore, sculptor of the soldiers' monument 
on Boston Common. On Fhipps Street, off Main Street, west side, 
near Thompson Square station of the elevated line, is the ancient 



66 CHARLESTOWN DISTRICT 

burying ground in which is tlie monument to John Harvard, the first 
benefactor of Harvard College, designed by Solomon Willard and 
erected by graduates of the university in 1828. 

City Square and "Town Hill," which rises on its west side behind 
the Charlestown Branch of the Public Library (the City Hall when 
Charlestown w^as an independent city) are the parts in which the first 
settlement was made in 1629. The '■'■ Great House'''' of the governor, in 
which the Court of Assistants adopted the order giving Boston its name 
in 1630, stood on the w^est side of the square. The dwelling of the 
young minister, John Harvard, stood near the opening of Main Street, 
his lot extending back over the slope of " Town Hill." The '■'•spreading 
oak^"" beneath which the first church, which became the first church of 
Boston, was organized by Winthrop and his associates, was on the east- 
erly slope of this hill. The first ^'■palisadoed'" fort, set up in 1629 and 
lasting for more than haK a century, was on its summit. The first bury- 
ing ground, where it is supposed was the grave of Jo/m Harvard, all 
traces of which long ago disappeared, was near its foot, toward the 
northern end of the square. 

The present church on the hill, facing Harvard Street, is the lineal 
descendant of the first meetinghouse of the Charlestown Church, organ- 
ized in 1632. An earlier church, on the same spot, was from 1789 to 
1 82 1 the pulpit of Rev. Jedidiah Morse, author of the first geography of 
the United States, deserving of remembrance more especially as the 
father of Samuel F. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph and 
noted in art. When his distinguished son was bom, Mr. Morse was 
living temporarily in the house of a parishioner, Thomas Edes, the par- 
sonage near the church being in building. This house is still standing, 
worn and dingy now, but preserved as the birthplace of Morse. We 
may see it on Main Street, above the Thompson Square station, marked 
with a tablet: "Here was bom Samuel Finley Morse, 27 April 1791, 
inventor of the electric telegraph." The room was the front chamber 
of the second stoiy on the right of the entrance door. This house was 
the first dwelling erected after the buming of the town in the battle of 
Bunker Hill. 

Bunker Hill Monument is on Breed's Hill, where the battle was fought. 
Monument Avenue, from Main Street, leads to the principal entrance of 
the monument grounds. In the main path we are confronted with the 
spirited statue of Colonel William Prescott in bronze, representing the 
American commander repressing his impatient men, as the enemy 
advances up the hill, with the warning words : " Don't fire till I tell 
you ! Don't fire till you see the whites of their eyes ! " This statue is 
by William W. Story, and was erected by the Bunker Hill Monument 



BUNKKR IIILI, MONUMENT 



(>1 



Association in 1881. It is inscribed simply with Prescott's name 
and the date, "June 17, 1775." It stands on or close to the spot 
where Prescott stood at the opening of the battle when he gave the 
signal to fire by waving his sword; but the statue faces in a different 
direction. 

The obelisk occupies the southeast comer of the American redoubt, 
and its sides are parallel with those of that structure, which was about 
eight rods square. It is built in courses of granite, 
the stone coming from a quany in Quincy, whence 
it was carried to the shipping point by the first 
railroad laid in the country. It is thirty feet square 
at the base and two hundred and twenty feet high. 
Inside the shaft is a hollow cone, around which 
winds a spiral flight of stone steps, by which 
ascent is made to the top. Here is an observ- 
atory, seventeen feet high and eleven feet in 
diameter, with windows on each side. Before 
attempting the climb the visitor should consider 
the task. The steps number nearly three hundred, 
— to be exact, two hundred and ninety-five. There 
is reward, however, for the exertion when the 
summit is reached, in the magnificent view which 
it commands in every direction. 

The stone lodge at the base of the obelisk con- 
tains an interesting museum of memorials of the 
battle and a fine marble statue of General Joseph 
Warren by Henry Dexter (dedicated June 17, 
1857). The spot where Warren fell is marked by 
a low stone in the ground. 

The monument was begun in 1825, when the corner 
stone was formally laid by Lafayette, under the direction 
of the Massachusetts Grand Lodge of Masons, and 
Daniel Webster delivered the oration. It remained 
unfinished for nearly twenty years. Then, in 1840, 

largely through the efforts of American women, the required funds for its 
completion were raised. In July, 1842, the last stone was hoisted to its place, 
one of the workmen riding up on it and waving an American flag. Wlien it was 
finally laid in cement the event was announced by a national salute. The com- 
pleted structure was dedicated on the 17th of June, 1843, when Webster was 
again the orator, and President Tyler with members of his cabinet was present. 
In the great throng that gathered on this occasion were a few survivors of the 
battle. The sculptor Greenough devised the monument, and Solomon Willard 
was the architect who superintended its construction. 




Bt'NKER Hill 

MONIIMENT 



68 WEST END 

Bunker Hill lies to the northward of Breed's Hill, toward Charles- 
town Neck, where the Elevated line ends. Its summit, higher than 
Breed's Hill, is occupied by " Charlestown Heights," overlooking the 
Mystic River, one of the most attractive of the Boston City Parks 
System. On Walker Street, on this hill, a short street from Main up 
to Wall Street, is still standing the house where Thomas Ball, the 
sculptor, was born. 

4. The West End 

The West End (see Plate H) comprises that quarter of the city which 
lies west of the Common and between Beacon, Tremont, and Court 
streets, Bowdoin Square, Green Street and so northwest to the Charles 
River, and Charles Street to Beacon Street at the foot of the Common. 
It thus includes all of Beacon Hill. It is a fading quarter now, with a 
number of old Boston institutions, some mellow old streets, others in 
hopeless decay, and numerous landmarks, especially of literary Boston. 
In its better parts it retains more distinctly than any other quarter of 
the city the genuine Boston flavor. 

The most interesting part is the Beacon Hill section. We have seen 
its southern boundary in the fine line of Beacon Street architecture 
opposite the Common from the State House to Charles Street. Let 
us enter it, therefore, above Beacon Street, — from the State House 
Park through the archway to Mt. Vernon Street. 

Although " The Hill," as this was called in its proud days, par excel- 
lence^ is not the oldest part of the West End, it has been from its 
upbuilding the choicest, and accordingly its associations are the richest'. 
Up to the Revolution it was largely a region of fields and pastures. 
Until near the opening of the nineteenth century there were but two 
houses on the Beacon Street slope west of the Hancock mansion. The 
greater part of the territory below the Hancock holdings was the domain 
of John Singleton Copley, the painter (after his fortunate marriage), from 
about 1769 to 1795. '^^'^^ bounds of this "farm," as Copley called it, 
although it was chiefly pasture land, are indicated generally by the 
present Mt. Vernon and Pinckney streets on the north, Walnut Street on 
the east, the Common south, and the Charles River west. It included 
the homestead lot of the first European settler, William Blaxton, — he 
who was here before the Winthrop company, — with the " excellent 
spring" of which he "acquainted" the governor when he invited him 
hither. It was the acquisition of the Hancock pasture for the new 
State House, — the Bulfinch Front, — in 1795, ^^^^ gave the impulse to 
the development in this quarter. Then a " syndicate " purchased the 



HANCOCK, MT. VERNON, AND JOV STREETS 69 

Copley estate at a bargain (Copley was at that time living in England), 
and in the course of a few years these now old streets appeared, built 
up substantially, in place of the Copley pastures and adjoining proper- 
ties. A half-century after it was remarked that on " the Copley estate 
live, or have lived, a large proportion of those most distinguished among 
us for intellect and learning or for enterprise, wealth and public spirit." 

On Mt. Vernon Street from the archway we are passing through what 
were the Hancock gardens. Hancock Street, coming up the hillside at 
our right, is the oldest of the streets here. It originally ran by the side 
of the peak of Beacon Hill over to the Common. It was given the 
governor's name in 1788. Near its foot, on the east side, is the Sumner 
house (No. 20) in which Charles Sumner lived from 1830 to 1867. Along 
the same side, extending from Deme Street nearly up to Mt. Vernon 
Street, stood from 1849 to 18S4 the Beacon Hill Reservoir, a massive 
granite structure with lofty arches piercing its front walls, notable as 
a superior piece of architecture. Its service as a distributing reservoir 
closed some time before its removal, clearing the way for the State 
House Annex. 

Joy Street, the first to cross Mt. Vernon, is next to Hancock Street in 
age. It used to be Belknap Street, the principal way to the negro quar- 
ters on the north slope of the hill. Midway in its descent to Cambridge 
Street a dingy court opens. Smith by name, in which is a landmark of 
antislavery days. This is the brick meetinghouse erected for the first 
African church (built in 1806), now a Jewish synagogue, which was used 
for abolition meetings. It w^as after a meeting held here on the even- 
ing of December 3, i860, commemorating the execution of John Brown, 
that Wendell Phillips was assisted to his home, then on Essex Street, 
by a volunteer guard of forty young men with locked arms, pressed 
closely by a threatening mob. At the fairer end of this street, near 
Beacon Street, is the Diocesan House (i Joy Street), the headquarters 
of the Protestant Episcopal Church. Here are the oifices of various 
church organizations, the parlors of the Episcopal Church Association, 
the libraiy, and valuable archives. It is a commodious dwelling of a 
past style, remodeled, but preserving its original interior architecture. 

As we proceed along Mt. Vernon Street, which grows in old-fashioned 
stateliness as it advances over the hill, we come upon a succession of 
houses with an interesting past. No. 49, on the north side, was long 
the home of Lemuel Shaw, chief justice of the Massachusetts Supreme 
Judicial Court for thirty years ( 1 830-1 860). Its near neighbor (No. 53), 
now the house of the General Theological Library, was once the dwelling 
of a merchant of distinction. The lil^rary which has succeeded it is 
an unsectarian institution established since i860, for the puipose of 



yo WEST END 

"promoting religious and theological learning," having a collection of 
21,000 volumes and some 5,000 pamphlets. 

It is a special library of standard and current theological books, that term 
being used in its broad sense to cover works on sociology, philosophy, comparative 
religions, and archaeological research. Its books are free to all New England 
clergymen ; and beyond " Greater Boston " they are furnished through the local 
public libraries. The Rev. George A. Jackson is the librarian. 

The head of the stately row of houses beyond, set back thirty feet 
from the street (No. 57), was the town house of Charles Francis Adams, 
St., during the latter years of his life. The next one in this row (No. 
59), with its classic doorway, has an interesting present, it being the 
home of Thomas Bailey Aldrich, associated with his ripest work. No. 63, 
transformed into an apartment house, so, unhappily, breaking the sym- 
metry of the row, was formerly the home of Senator Henry Cabot Lodge, 
where some of his most notable historical writing was done. No. 79 
was the home of Horace Gray during his long service on the Supreme 
bench of the State as justice and chief justice, before he was made a 
justice of the United States Supreme Court. The last house of the 
row (No. 83) was the last Boston home of William Ellery Channing, 
whose study here was the " Mecca of all sorts and conditions of men." 

On the opposite side of the street the oniate brownstone houses with 
lofty entrances, now the Theological School of Boston University, were 
hospitable mansions erected in the fifties of the last century by the 
brothers John E. and Nathaniel Thayer, eminent merchants of their 
time and benefactors of Harvard University. No. 76, just below, was 
the home of Margaret Deland for a number of years, during the period 
marked by her " Philip and His Wife." No. 88, on the lower corner of 
little Willow Street (which connecting, nearly, with another little street 
across Chestnut Street provides a "short cut" to the Common), was 
once the home of Enoch Train, the projector of the line of fast clipper 
ships to Liverpool, fine craft which came into successful competition 
with the early ocean steamships. He was the father of Mrs. A. D. T. 
Whitney of Milton, the favorite writer of girls' stories. No. 92 was the 
home and studio of Anne Whitney during the years that she was model- 
ing some of her most notable statues, — the Samuel Adams (see p. 15) 
and the Leif Ericson (see p. 79) among them. 

Louisburg Sqimi-e, with its inclosed park of lofty trees and diminutive 
Italian marble statues of Aristides and Columbus at either end, sug- 
gestive of old London residential squares, connects Mt. Vernon with 
Pinckney Street, the latter with an air of shabby gentility yet borne with 
decorum. Blaxton's spring is believed to have been in the middle of 



PINCKNEY STREET 



7' 



this square. The pomt is disputed by local historians, the popular 
location being in Spring Lane, north of the Old South Meetinghouse ; 
but the evidence in support of the Louisburg Square situation is 
accepted as conclusive by most authorities. The matter, however, is 
not of moment, for the town was full of springs when Blaxton 
" solicited " Winthrop hither. 

Blaxton's orchard spread back up the hill slope toward this square. His 
homestead lot of six acres, reserved after his sale of the whole peninsula to the 
colonists for thirty pounds, occupied the northwesterly slope of the hill, bounded 
southerly toward the Common and westerly on Charles River, the water's edge 
then being at the present Charles Street. His cottage, with its rose garden, was 
on the hill slope toward the Common, between the present Spruce and Charles 
streets. He moored his boat on the river, presumably at a point which jutted out 
from the bluff in which the hill ended, on the Charles Street side. 

At ID Louisburg Square was the last Boston home of Louisa M. 
Alcott, where her remarkable father, A. Bronson Alcott, died (1888) in 
his eighty-ninth year ; her own death following the day of his funeral. 
No. 4 was the home of William D. Howells in the late seventies, when he 
was a Bostonian editing the At/antic. No. 20 is interesting as the house 
where Jenny Lind was married in 1852. 

On the upper corner of the square and Pinckney Street are the main 
house and the chapel of the Sisterhood of St. Margaret, Protestant 
Episcopal, where is St. Margaret's Hospital, one of the most worthy 
institutions of the city. The infirmaries occupy two additional houses 
on this square and a neighboring one on Mt. Vernon Street. 

Phickney Street extends from Joy Street to the river, with but one 
street crossing it. At the upper end was for forty years the home of 
Edwin P. Whipple, the essayist, the plain brick house, No. 11. Lower 
down, on the opposite side, the house No. 20 was the home of the 
Alcott family in the fifties of the last century, the scene of Louisa M. 
Alcott's early struggle in authorship mingled with domestic occupations. 
At No. 54, nearly opposite the opening of Anderson Street, was the 
early home of George S. Hillard, lawyer, editor, critic, and essayist, remem- 
bered especially through his " Hillard's Readers " of the mid-fifties. 
From this house Hawthorne in 1842 wrote his little note to the Rev. 
James Freeman Clarke requesting "the greatest favor which I can 
receive from any man," — the performance of the ceremony of his 
marriage to Sophia Peabody. Hillard lived for a much longer period 
at No. 62. On the lower slope of the street, below the square, at 
No. 84, was the first Boston home of Aldrich after his marriage, where 
Longfellow got the inspiration for " The Hanging of the Crane." The 
" Story of a Bad Boy" issued from this house. 



72 WEST END 

On Mt. Vernon Street again we may see just below West Cedar 
Street the first home of Margaret Deland in this quarter, — No. 112,— 
where some of her earUer books were written ; and nearly opposite, 
at No. 99, the home of John C. Ropes, in his day the authority on 
Napoleonic literature. 

By IVest Cedar Street we cross to Chestnut Street^ possessing in its 
entirety, perhaps, more of the old Boston flavor than the other streets 
of " The Hill." In the short block of West Cedar Street through 
which we pass, note should be taken on one side of the town house 
of Percival Lowell (No. 11), the astronomer and producer of notable 
books ; on the other side the house of Henry C. Merwin (No. 3), the 
essayist and literary authority on the American horse; and, at No. i, 
the home of the Harvard Musical Association, organized in 1837 "to 
promote the progress and knowledge of the best music," and from its 
establishment a leading factor in the development of musical culture 
in Boston. 

Up Chest)iut Street on one side and down on the other we shall 
pass a series of historic houses. No. 50, on the south side, was the 
town house of Francis Parkman, from 1864 until his death (1893) identi- 
fied with the most of his historical work in the preparation of his 
" France and England in North America." No. 43, nearly opposite, 
was for upw^ards of forty years the town house of Richard H. Dana, Sr., 
the poet; here he died (1896) at ninety-one. A little way above, the 
house presenting a side bay to the street (No. 29) was the sometime home 
of Edwin Booth, the actor. Higher up the street a group of three houses 
(Nos. 17, 15, and 13) arrest attention as examples of the best type of 
early nineteenth-century domestic architecture. The first was the long- 
time home of Cyrus A. Bartol, the "poet preacher" and essayist ; the sec- 
ond is the ancestral home of Dr. B. Joy Jeffries ; the third was for some 
years the home of Rev. John T. Sargent, the meeting place of the Radical 
Club, renowned in its day, which came after the Transcendental Club of 
wider fame. Mrs. Julia Ward Howe also lived some years in this house. 

On Walnut Street, where Chestnut Street ends, — or, more properly, 
begins, — was the historian Motley's boyhood home, in a pleasant house 
" looking down Chestnut Street," now replaced by a more modern 
dwelling. At 8 Walnut Street was Parkman's earlier house, from which 
he removed to 50 Chestnut Street. 

Returning now to the foot of the hill and taking Charles Street north- 
ward (once beautified by handsome trees, now all gone save one or tw'o 
worn remnants), we may pass the Charles Street houses once the homes 
of Dr. Holmes, James T. Fields, and T. B. Aldrich (Nos. 164, 148, and 131, 
respectively). On the way we should notice at the foot of Mt. Vernon 



CIIAKLESHANK 



73 



Street toward the river the Church of the Advent (Protestant Episcopal), 
a picturesque structure in the early English style of architecture, with 
stone tower and steeple. In the tower is a chime of bells. The church 
organization dates from 1844. 

The old literaiy homes of Charles Street are near together toward 
Cambridge Street. 

Holmes s life at No. 164 was between 1859 and 1871, covering the period of 
his " Professor at the Breakfast Table," " Elsie Venner," and " The Guardian 
Angel," his war poems and most noteworthy verses of occasion. Aldrich moved 
into No. 131 from the Pinckney Street house the year that Holmes moved from 
the street to 296 Beacon Street, He remained here for about ten years and 
then moved to the Mt. 
Vernon Street house. 
This Charles Street 
house is identified with 
his " Marjorie Daw," 
'' Prudence Palfrey," 
" The Queen of Sheba," 
and "The Stillwater 
Tragedy," and the 
beginning of his editor- 
ship of the Atlantic 
Monthly. Fields was 
the earliest of the three 
to come to Charles 
Street, and this re- 
mained his home until 
his death (1881). It is 
still maintained as the 
town home of Mrs. 

Annie Fields and Sarah Or>ic Jcwett. The library is one of the richest in 
authors' manuscripts. The complete manuscript of "The Scarlet Letter" 
is here. 

Across Cambridge Street is the Charlesbank, the pleasant park with 
trees and shrubs and shaded seats, along the riverfront of Charles Street, 
between the West Boston and Craigie bridges. It is especially designed 
for the poorer classes living in the neighborhood. Here are gymnasiums 
for both sexes, and playgrounds and sand courts for children. It is a 
part of the City Public Parks System. 

The successive institutions on the opposite side of the street are 
the County Jail, generally called the Charles Street Jail, the Massachu- 
setts Charitable Eye and Ear Infirmary (incorporated 1827), and the 
Massachusetts General Hospital (incorporated 181 1). The latter fronts 
on Blossom Street, and embraces a group of noble buildings. The 




74 HACK BAY 

oldest, or central building, with porticoes of Ionic columns and shapely 
dome, was designed by Bulfinch. In the old operating room the first 
successful operation upon a patient under the influence of ether was 
performed in October, 1856, by Dr. W. T. G. Morton. This event is 
commemorated by the Ether Mojiitment, so called, in the Public Garden. 
At Dr. Morton's grave in Mt. Auburn, Cambridge, is also a monu- 
ment. On North Grove Street., at one side of the hospital, is the first 
Harvard Medical School building (now occupied by the Dental School), 
the scene of the Parktnan murder in 1849, — the killing of Dr. George 
Parkman by Professor John W. Webster. Both were men of good 
social and professional standing, and the trial was one of the most 
celebrated in Boston. Webster was executed the following year. 

The only other object of interest in this older part of the West End 
is the West Church, at the corner of Cambridge and Lynde streets, now 
the West End Branch of the Public Librayy. The building dates from 
1806. Its predecessor was used for barracks during the Siege, and the 
steeple was taken down because it had been used in making signals to 
the Continental camp at Cambridge. The present building was long 
the pulpit of Charles Lozuell, the father of James Russell Lowell, and 
Cyrus A. Bartol. 

5. The Back Bay 

The Public Garden below the Common, between Beacon, Charles, 
Boylston, and Arlington streets, is the gateway to the Back Bay District 
(see Plates I and II), the modern "court end" of Boston. Common- 
wealth Avenue is its principal boulevard. Boylston Street to Copley 
Square, and Huntington Avenue beyond, are its southern bounds; 
Beacon Street and Charles River its northern bounds. Copley Square 
is its central point. Massachusetts Avenue is its great western cross 
thoroughfare. To this avenue the streets of the quarter — with the 
exception of Huntington Avenue, which begins at Copley Square — 
run parallel to or at right angles with Beacon Street on the Charles 
River side. The cross streets, beginning with Arlington Street, are 
named in alphabetical order, a trisyllable alternating with a disyllable 
word. Broad thoroughfares and imposing architecture characterize this 
cjuarter. The streets north of Boylston Street between Arlington 
Street and Massachusetts Avenue are free from car tracks. Common- 
wealth Avenue, with its tree-lined parkway, broken here and there by 
statues, is two hundred feet wide, or two hundred and twenty feet from 
house to house, between Arlington Street and Massachusetts Avenue. 
It extends beyond the original limits of the quarter, through the 



BACK BAY 



75 



Brighton District to the western boundary of the city at the Newton 
line. Huntington Avenue, with a middle green occupied by street-car 
tracks, is one hundred feet in width, or one hundred and twenty feet 
from house to house. It extends to the Krookline line. Massachu- 
setts Avenue comes into the quarter from the Dorchester District, 
where it begins at Edward Everett Square (so named from the birth- 
place of Edward Everett, which stood at this point) and, crossing Har- 
vard Bridge, continues through Cambridge, Arlington, and Lexington. 
All the territory of this district is " made land " in place of the bay 
whose name it takes, a beautiful sheet of water making up from Charles 
River, which at flood time spread out from the present Charles Street 
by the Common to the " Neck " (the narrow^ stem of the original penin- 




Hakvard Bridge 



sula) and Roxbury, and toward the hills of Brookline. The Public 
Garden was the " Round Marsh," or " the marsh at the bottom of the 
Common." 

The filling of the bay was planned in 1S52 by a State commission, the Com- 
monwealth having the right to the flats below the Hne of riparian ownership. At 
that time the bay was a great basin made by dams thrown across it for the utili- 
zation of its water power by mills on its borders. These dams were also used 
as causeways for communication between Boston and Roxbury and the western 
suburbs. They were the " Mill Dam,'" now included in lower Beacon Street ; the 
" Cross Dam," extending from the Roxbury side to the Mill Dam: and the cause- 
way, corresponding in part with the present Brookline Avenue (earlier the Punch 
Bowl Road), which extends from the junction of Beacon Street and Common- 
wealth Avenue southwest to the Brookline line. The filling was practically 
begun in 1857 and finished in 1886. It was done by the Commonwealth and the 
Boston Water Power Company. The Commonwealth owned 108.44 acres of the 
territory. On its sales of the land remaining after large gifts to institutions, 
and reservations for the city of Boston, and for streets and passageways, it made 
a net profit of upward of four million dollars. The avails of the sale were applied 
to educational purposes and to the endowment of several of the sinking funds of 
the State. 



76 



PUBLIC GARDEN 



The Public Garden is the gem of the city parks, essentially a flower 
garden, with rich verdure, a dainty foil to the plainer Common. The 




Bridge, Public Garden 



artificial pond in the middle of the inclosure is so irregularly shaped as 
to appear extensive, although its actual area is only three and three 
quarters acres. The iron bridge which carries the main path over the 
pond has been endowed by the local wits with the title of the " Bridge 

of Size," from its ponderous piers. 
The statues and monuments here 
are : 

On the Beacon Street side: 
Statue of Edward Everett, of 
bronze, by William W. Story. 
Erected in 1867. The cost met 
by a popular subscription. The 
Ether Moiiiiment, commemorating 
the discovei-y of anaesthetics, of 
granite and red marble, by J. Q. A. 
Ward. Erected in 1868. The 
ideal figures surmounting the shaft 
illustrate the story of the Good 
Samaritan ; the marble bas-reliefs 
represent (i) a surgical operation 
in a civic hospital, the patient being 
under the influence of ether, (2) the 
angel of mercy descending to re- 
lieve suffering humanity, (3) the 
interior of a field hospital, showing 
a wounded soldier in the hands 
of the surgeon, (4) an allegory of the triumph of science. This monu- 
ment was a gift to the city by Thomas Ivce. 




Channing Statue 



PUBLIC GARDEN 



77 




Entrance to Subway, Public Garden 



On the Boylston Street side : Statue of Charles Sumner, of bronze, 

by Thomas Ball. Erected in 1S7S. This was provided for by popular 

subscription. Statue of 

Colonel Tlionias Cass 

(commander of the Ninth 

Regiment, Massachusetts 

Volunteers, in the Civil 

War; killed at Malvern 

Hill, Va., July i, 1862), of 

bronze, by Richard E. 

Brooks. Erected in I SS9. 

A gift to the city by the 

Society of the Ninth 

Regiment. 

On the Arlington Street 

side : Statue of IVilltam 

Ellery Channing (facing 

the Arlington Street Church on the opposite side of the street, 

the successor of the Federal Street Church, which was the pulpit of 

Channing), of bronze, by Herbert Adams. The carved canopy, of gran- 
ite and marble, designed by Vincent 
C. Griffith, architect. Erected in 1903. 
A gift to the city by John Foster. 
On the marble columns of the can- 
opy and on the marble stone at the 
back of the monument are inscriptions. 
The equestrian statue of Washington 
(in the main path, facing the Arlington 
Street gate), of bronze, by Thomas 
Ball. Erected in 1869. Provided for 
by popular subscription. The marble 
Venus in the fountain near by was the 
first work of art placed in the Garden. 
The Arlington Street Church (Uni- 
tarian), which dignifies the corner of 
Arlington and Boylston streets, was 
the first church built in this quarter 
(1860-1861). Its exterior design is 
broadly after old London Wren 
churches. The steeple was the first in 

Boston to be constructed entirely of stone. In its tower is a chime of 

sixteen bells. The church organization dates from 1727. 




Washington Statue, 
Public Garden 



yS COMMONWEALTH AVENUE 

On the corner of Arlington Street and Newbury Street (the next street 
north opening from Arlington Street) is the house of the New Church 
Union, the headquarters of the New Jerusalem Church. Here are 
established the New Church libraries and the business departments of 
the Union, which is the business and financial representative of the 
Massachusetts Association of the New Jerusalem Church. 

Next to this building, on Newbury Street (No. 2), is the house of the 
St. Botolph Club, the representative literary and professional club of 
the city, taking its name from St. Botolph in old Boston, England 
(organized in 1880; Francis Parkman, the historian, the first president). 
It possesses a silver-gilt " loving cup " which formerly belonged to the 
corporation of the English Boston. In its art gallery exhibitions of new 
work by artists are given during the winter season. The picturesque 
church nearly opposite the St. Botolph is Emmanuel Church (Protestant 
Episcopal). It is built of the local Roxbury conglomerate stone. The 
church organization dates from i860, and this edifice was erected two 
years later. 

Commontuealth Avenue opens from the middle of Arlington Street, 
its parkway being directly opposite the main path of the Public Garden, 
which terminates at the Arlington Street gate. A lovely vista opens 
through the long park of beautiful trees. The succession of statues 
down the long walk are : 

Alexander Hamilton, of granite, by Dr. William Rimmer. Erected 
in 1865. A gift to the city by Thomas Lee, the same who gave the 
Ether Monument in the Public Garden. This was the first statue 
in the country to be cut from granite. The inscription characterizes 
Hamilton as "orator, writer, soldier, jurist, financier. Although his 
particular province was the treasury, his genius pervaded the whole 
administration of Washington." 

General John Glover of Marblehead, "a soldier of the Revolution," 
of bronze, by Martin Milmore. Erected in 1875. ^ gi^^ to the 
city by Benjamin T. Read. The inscription details the conspicuous 
features of Glover's miUtary service with his marine regiment of Mar- 
blehead men, notably his leadership in transporting the army across 
the river from Brooklyn to New York and across the Delaware in 
1776. 

William Lloyd Garrison, a sitting figure, of bronze, by Olin L. 
Warner. Erected in 1886. The fund for this statue was raised by 
popular subscription. Beneath the chair in which the figure is seated 
lies a representation of a volume of the Liberator. The inscriptions 
are quotations of the motto of the Liberator: "Our Country is the 
World — Our Countrymen are Mankind " ; and the declaration in 



COMMONWEALTH AVENUE 



79 



paper 
- 1 will 



: " I am in earnest — I will not equivo- 
not retreat a single inch — and I will 



Garrison's salutatory in hi 
cate — I will not excuse - 
be heard." 

Leif Ericson, the Norse discoverer, of the year looo; an ideal figure, 
of bronze, by Anne Whitney. Erected in 1886. The pedestal dis- 
plays reliefs, one representing a Norse scene, — a banqueting hall, with 
Leif returned from his voyages relating his discoveries ; the other 
the Norse landing on American shores. This statue is across Massa- 
chusetts Avenue where the parkway ends. 

On Berkeley Street^ at the corner of Marlborough Street, a block 
north of Commonwealth Avenue, is the beautiful stone edifice, with 
corner tower and steeple, of the First 
Church of Boston (Unitarian), fourth in 
succession from the rude little fabric of 
1632 on the present State Street (see p. 5). 
It was erected in 1868, succeeding the 
meetinghouse which stood on Chauncy 
Place (now Street), off Summer Street, 
in the business quarter, for sixty years. 
The Rev. William Emerson, father of 
Ralph Waldo Emerson, was the minister 
of the church (his service being from 
1 791 to 181 1) when that meetinghouse 
was built in 1808. 

On Berkeley Street, at the corner of 
Marlborough Street, south of the avenue, 
is the Gothic Central Church (Congre- 
gational Trinitarian), built in 1867. Like 
the First Church this is constructed of 
the Roxbury rubble, with sandstone trim- 
mings. Its fine spire, two hundred and 

thirty-six feet high, is the tallest in the city. This church (erected 
in 1867) is the successor of the first meetinghouse of the society, 
which stood on Winter Street, in the heart of the " down-town " shop- 
ping quarter, from 1841 to 1865. 

The only church on Commonwealth ATenue is the notable structure 
with its Florentine tower, at the western corner of Clarendon Street. 
This is the First Baptist Church, descendant of the pioneer Baptist meet- 
inghouse at the North End which the then proscribed sect built in 1679, 
and which not long after was nailed up by the court officers (see p. 57). 
This edifice was originally erected (in 1873) by the Brattle Square 
Church organization (Unitarian), to succeed the historic meetinghouse 




Leif Ericson Stati 



8o COPLEY SQUARE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS 

in Brattle Square (see p. 17). It was purchased by the Baptists after 
the dissolution of the Unitarian society and the sale of the church 
property by auction. The massive square stone tower, rising one hun- 
dred and seventy-six feet, with frieze of colossal bas-reUefs, gives this 
structure an especial distinction in the Back Bay architecture. The 
sculptured figures on the four sides of the frieze represent the four 
Christian eras, — baptism, communion, marriage, and death ; the statues 
at the angles typify the angels of the judgment blowing golden trum- 
pets. These figures were cut by Italian sculptors from designs by 
Bartholdi after the stones had been set in place. 

The lower south corner of the avenue and Dartmouth Street is 
impressively marked by the great marble hotel, the Vendome. Farther 
down, on the north side, below Exeter Street, is the Algonquin Club- 
house, a light stone building of striking fa9ade, sumptuously designed 
and arranged for the club's uses. The Algonquin (organized in 1885) 
is the representative business club of the city, composed largely of 
active men of affairs. In near neighborhood — on Beacon Street, 
nearly opposite the head of Exeter Street — is the University Club- 
house. It is a rich dwelling refashioned for club uses. It is especially 
favored by position with an outlook at the rear over the river. This 
club (organized in 1892), composed of college graduates resident in 
Boston and vicinity, is one of the largest of its class in the country. 

Below Exeter Street, also on the favored water side of Beacon Street, 
is the Holmes house (No. 296), the last town house of Dr. Holmes, iden- 
tified with the mellow productions of his latter years and old age, — as 
" The Poet at the Breakfast Table," " Over the Teacups," the grave 
and gay poems, " The Iron Gate," and " The Broomstick Train " on 
the advent of the trolley car. Farther down, at No. 392, is the home 
of James Ford Rhodes, the historian of the United States "from the 
compromise of 1850." Above Exeter Street, on the south side of 
Beacon Street (No. 241), is the latter-day home of Julia Ward Howe. 

Copley Square and its Surroundings. Copley Square is at the junction 
of Boylston Street, Huntington Avenue, Trinity Place, St. James Ave- 
nue, and Dartmouth Street. The cross streets, Berkeley and Clarendon, 
are near its eastern boundary ; the thoroughfare of Dartmouth Street 
makes its western bound. About the square and in its immediate neigh- 
borhood are grouped some of the most important institutions of the 
city, with noble buildings, beautiful churches, and attractive hotels. 
Bounding the square are : the Public Library, occupying the entire 
west side; the Museum of Fine Arts, ih.Q Westminster Chambers, and 
Trinity Church on the south side ; the Second Church and the Girls' 
Latin School on the north side; and the N'ew South Church marking 



PUBLIC LIHRARV 



8i 



the northwest corner. On Boylston Street east of the square, begin- 
ning at Berkeley Street, are : on the north side, the Natural History 
Museum and the main buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech- 
nology ; on the south side, the Youjig Men^s Christian AssociationhvLWd- 
ing and the Hotel Brunszvick. On Boylston Street west of the square 
is the Harvard Medical School, adjoining the Public Library and extend- 
ing to Exeter Street. On the lower corner of Exeter Street is the Hotel 
Lenox. Nearly opposite, on Exeter Street, is the Athletic Clubhouse, 
one of the largest of its class in the country. On Dartmouth Street, 
north, next beyond the New Old South Church, is the Boston Art Club- 
house, with entrance on Newbury Street. Opposite the clubhouse, on 



ff 



;HARLES ILlvaR.. 



E.^,C ON 



HEREFORD 
MA.3S. 


W 


1 


I 
% 


I 



5 C0^4M0^[WEALTH 






ami 




COHI.EY SoUARF, AN'I) VlCIXITY 



Dartmouth Street, is the Hotel Victoria. On Huntington Avenue, just 
outside the square, are the Hotel Nottingham, the Hotel Oxford, and the 
Copley Square Hotel. A short walk below, on Huntington Avenue, is 
the great building of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, 
with its fine halls. From the square Trinity Place leads directly to the 
Trinity Place station of the New York Central Railroad for outbound 
trains, and Dartmouth Street leads to the Back Bay station of the New- 
York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. From Huntington Avenue, at 
the corner of Irvington Street, a block below the square, is the passage 
to the Hiuitington Avenue station of the New York Central for inward- 
bound trains. 

The Public Library building is one of the notable architectural monu- 
ments of its day. It is built of granite of a peculiar pinkish white color, 



82 



PUBLIC LIBRARY 



the fa9ade classic in design. Its dimensions are two hundred and 
twenty-five feet long by two hundred and twenty-seven deep, and its 
height from the sidewalk to the top of the coniice is seventy feet. It 
is quadrangular in shape, surrounding a court, and covers with its broad 
entrance platform, exclusive of the court, an acre and a half of ground. 
The elegance of its proportions and the purity of its style are remarked 
as the chief architectural merits of the work. The main entrance is 
topped with a round arch, over which appears a medallion of the seal 
of the library by Augustus St. Gaudens. Sculptures by St. Gaudens 
are ultimately to be placed on the stone blocks at either end of the 

platform by the entrance 






Public Library 



doors. The vestibule, 
the entrance hall with 
high vaulted ceiUng, and 
the noble marble stair- 
case rising beyond are 
impressive features of 
the first floor. In the ves- 
tibule is the bronze statue 
of Sir Harjy Vaiie, by 
Frederick MacMonnies. 
In a niche of the entrance 
hall is the statue of Bee- 
t/ioTeii, also bronze, by 
Thomas Crawford, originally erected in Music Hall in 1 856. In the ceiling 
of this hall are wrought names of men identified with Boston, eminent 
in letters, art, science, law, and pubUc work. The great marble lions on 
either side of the first landing of the staircase are by Louis St. Gaudens. 
They were memorial gifts of the Second and Twentieth Regiments, 
Massachusetts Volunteers, in the Civil War. The decorations on the 
walls of the stairway and the corridor above are by Puvis de Chavannes. 
They represent, in separate panels. Philosophy, Astronomy, Plistory, 
Chemistry, Physics, Pastoral Poetry, Dramatic Poetry, Epic Poetry, 
and finally, in one symbolic composition, " The Muses welcoming the 
Genius of Enlightenment." The decorations of the Delivery Room, 
which opens from this corridor, are by Edwin A. Abbey, and illustrate 
the legend of the Holy Grail. The walls of the corridor of the upper 
floor, familiarly known as the " Sargent Hall," have in part the decora- 
tions by John S. Sargent which in their completed form will represent 
the triumph of religion. Only the panels of the east and west walls have 
yet been finished. The subject of the first of these is the confused 
struggle in the Jewish nation between monotheism and polytheism. 



PUBLIC I.UiRARY 



83 



That of the second is the dogma of the Redemption. The ceiling of 
the second Children's Room, on the principal floor, carries a painting 
by John Elliott representing the " Triumph of Time " ; twelve female 
figures symbolize the hours, and one male figure, Time. The Christian 
centuries are typified by twenty horses arranged in rows of four each. 
This decoration was given to the Library by citizens of Boston. The 
decorations of the lobby leading to the Children's Room from the main 
corridor are by Joseph Lindon Smith, and were given by Arthur A. 
Carey, a citizen of Boston. The lobby at the opposite end of the 
corridor leading to the Delivery Room was decorated by I'.lmer K. 
Garnsey. Besides its mural decora- 
tions the Library is rich in memorial 
busts and other art objects. 

The principal reading room, known 
as ZuiUs Hall (in honor of Joshua 
Bates, who gave the Lil^rary at its 
beginning, in 1852, a fund of fifty 
thousand dollars, besides an equiva- 
lent amount in books), is in its dimen- 
sions and architectural features the 
most important apartment in the build- 
ing. It is two hundred and eighteen 
feet long, forty-two and one half feet 
wide, and fifty feet high to the crown 
of the arches. The barrel-arched ceil- 
ing is deeply paneled and ornamented 
with rosettes. In this hall are collec- 
tions of reference books and works in 
general literature, accessible to the public on open shelves. Readers are 
also served at the tables by runners, who bring from the stacks such vol- 
umes as are requested for hall use. The Children'' s Rooms on this floor 
are entirely devoted to the needs of young readers. Special attendants 
aid the children in the selection of books, and instruct them in the use 
of the library. Nine thousand volumes are placed on open shelves 
here, mainly the better class of "juveniles," boys' and girls' fiction, and 
books of travel and adventure written for the young. Large tables are 
provided at which the children may read by themselves. The Children's 
Reference Room is a study room, and is equipped with books intended 
to be used by young students. Children come here to write composi- 
tions, to look up topics connected with their school work, and to pre- 
pare their daily lessons. A collection of the text-books used in the 




Bates Ha 



Boston public schools is an important feature of this 



and the 



84 PUBLIC LIBRARY 

books contained in it are alike helpful to those who have left school 
and to teachers from other places. General and special reference books 
are also shelved here, duplicating in some cases those kept in Bates 
Hall for older readers ; and there is a section of books on pedagogy 
and kindergarten methods for teachers. 

In connection with the work for children, the schools included among the 
agencies of the Library (sixty-six public and six parochial schools) must be 
mentioned. These are supplied with books either for topical reference or mis- 
cellaneous reading, which are usually delivered by the Library wagon and may 
be changed frequently. Each set of books is made up for the occasion, and the 
teachers' selection is followed as far as possible. The total number of volumes 
sent to the schools in 1902 was 12,261. Only a part of these was from the Cen- 
tral Library, for each large branch library supplies certain neighboring schools. 
Applications for Library cards are taken by Library employees in all the schools 
once a year. 

On the floor below are the Patent Roo7n, with the best collection of 
publications relating to patents to be found in the country, except that 
at Washington ; the Pei-iodical Room, with a complete file of current 
periodicals and magazines; and the Newspaper Room, in which over 
three hundred newspapers from all parts of the world are regularly 
received and placed on the reading files. The Department of Docii- 
tnents and Statistics is in the rear part of the building, approached 
through the arcade, across the courtyard from the main-entrance cor- 
ridor. It contains a large and constantly increasing collection of sta- 
tistical works, official publications, and books relating to economic 
subjects; also many rare and valuable historical manuscripts and 
broadsides. 

On the third floor are the Special Libraries, comprising the Fine Arts 
Department, the Allen A. Brown Library of Mnsic, and the Barton, Bar- 
low, Prince, Leivis, Bcnvditch, and Ticknor collections. The collections 
shelved on this floor are mainly intended for reference, and ample accom- 
modation is provided for the use of students and for research work. 
The Brown Library contains more than eight thousand volumes relating 
to music ; the Barton Collection (fourteen thousand volumes) is espe- 
cially rich in Shakespeariana, unequaled in the world, outside of two or 
three great English libraries ; and the Ticknor Library includes nearly 
seven thousand volumes of Spanish literature. These and the other 
collections designated by the names of the donors were presented to 
the Library. All of them contain many rare and exceedingly valuable 
books. The Pitte Arts Department contains, besides a carefully selected 
collection of books relating to architecture, painting, and the allied arts, 
more than fifteen thousand photographs from all over the world, besides 



MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS 85 

six thousand process pictures for the use of schools. Exhiliitions are 
held regularly in a room especially devoted to this purpose, and collec- 
tions of prints are sent to the schools and to the branch libraries and 
deposit stations. 

On the north side of the building, opening from Boylston Street, a 
large Lecture Hall is provided, in which lectures on educational or 
literary subjects are given during the winter season. 

The Boston Public Library system consists of the Central Library (this Copley 
Square building), ten Branch Libraries, in different parts of the city, each having 
permanent collections of books, twenty-two delivery stations (of which fourteen 
are reading rooms, and eight service stations and shop stations). Regular 
deposits of books are placed in seventy-two schools, thirty-six fire stations, 
and in sixteen other deposit stations. In all, therefore, there are one hundred 
and fifty-seven agencies for supplying books to the public. Regular daily 
wagon-delivery service is maintained between the Central Library and the 
outlying agencies. The administration of the Library is controlled by a board 
of five trustees appointed by the mayor, a librarian and assistant librarian, and, 
including chiefs of departments, a staff of two hundred and ninety employees for 
the regular service, and ninety-four for the Sunday and evening service. The 
Central Library is open daily from 9 A.m. to 10 p.m. (on Sunday from 2 p.m.) 
in the winter, closing one hour earlier in the summer, and the hours at the 
branches approximate this schedule, with some variation during the period from 
June to September. 

The Library comprises a collection of nearly nine hundred thousand volumes. 
About thirty thousand are annually added. It is a circulating library free to 
every resident of Boston, and the use of the books within the Library is open to 
all, whether resident of the city or not. It is not only the largest circulating and 
reference library in the United States, but it undertakes a greater variety of 
service than is rendered by the noted libraries of the world. By means of an 
interlibrary loan system it is serving scholarship throughout the country, its 
recorded applications for books showing a wide range of towns and cities and 
educational institutions. The annual circulation for home use approximates 
one million five hundred thousand volumes, including the circulation from the 
branches. Besides this there is an extensive use of books in the Library itself 
of which no statistical record is kept. 

The Library maintains its ow^n printing department and bindery. It issues a 
Monthly Bulletin of new accessions, and from time to time special bibliographies 
and other publications of importance. The annual appropriation made by the 
city for the maintenance of the institution is about $300,000. It also enjoys 
the income from about $385,000 of invested trust funds. Horace G. Wadlin is 
the present librarian. The architects of the Central Library were McKim, Mead 
& White. Its total cost, including the land, was $2,500,000. It was opened to 
the public in 1895. 

The Museum of Fine Arts, built of brick with terra-cotta decorations 
(John H. Sturgis and Sturgis & Cabot, architects), is in interesting 



86 



musp:um of fine arts 



contrast with the Public Library. It forms an irregular square about 
a central court. The reUefs on the Copley Square fa9ade represent : 
that at the extreme right of the entrance, " The Genius of Art," por- 
traying the nations paying tribute to Art, America being personified 
by a female figure holding in her hand Powers's " Greek Slave " ; that 
at the left, " Art and Industry " united. The heads in the roundels 
are of artists of distinction and patrons of art, the representative Ameri- 
cans being Copley, Crawford, and AUston. This museum, although 
only about a third of a century old (established 1870), ranks among 
the most important art museums of the world. It is the third in rank 
in casts and classic sculpture. The collection of objects of Japanese 

art is, in all its depart- 




irffi^ffr'fffr 






Museum of Fine Arts 



ments, the richest as 
well as the largest in 
the world. The collec- 
tions of textiles, wood 
carving, and metal work 
are extensive and valu- 
able. The picture gal- 
leries and the prints 
rooms occupy an entire 
wing of the building. 
The galleries contain 
collections of Italian, 
Dutch, and American work and the work of contemporary artists. 
In the American gallery (the Allston room) are numerous portraits 
of celebrated Americans. The Museum has a library mainly com- 
posed of works for specialists in the study of art, and it maintains 
the Museum School of Drawing and Painting. The Museum is open 
every week day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., except on Monday, when it closes 
at noon. The admission is twenty-five cents every day excepting Satur- 
day and Sunday, when it is free. 

Trinity Church (Protestant Episcopal) is one of the richest examples 
of ecclesiastical architecture in the city. It was the crowning work of 
the architect H. H. Richardson and is called his mastei-piece. Its 
style as defined by him is the French Romanesque, as freely rendered 
in the pyramidal-towered churches of Auvergne, the central tower pre- 
dominating. It is consti'ucted of yellowish granite, with brown freestone 
trimmings. The elaborate decorative work of the interior is by John 
La Farge. The chapel, with open outside stairsvay, is connected with 
the church by the open cloister, and here are placed stones from the old 
St. Rotolph Church in Boston, England, presented by the authorities 



TRINITY CHURCH 



87 



of that church. Trinity Church was consecrated in 1877. Its prede- 



cessor was destroyed 
Street at the corner 
of Hawley Street, a 
Gothic structure 
with massive stone 
walls and tower. 
Phillips Brooks was 
rector of Trinity from 
1869 to 1 89 1, when 
he was made Bishop 
of Massachusetts. 
The Phillips Brooks 
house is the rectory 
of the church, near 
by, on the northeast 
corner of Clarendon 
^ and New- 
bury streets. 
Trinity, 
founded in 
1728, is 
the third 



the fire of 1872. That stood on Summer 





Trinity Church 



Episcopal church established in Boston. 

The New Old South Church, so called to distinguish it from 
its still existing predecessor, the Old 
Sovith Meetinghouse (Congregational 
Trinitarian), is also noteworthy for rich- 
ness of design and ornamentation. It is 
in the North Italian Gothic style, and 
constructed mainly of the local Rox- 
bury stone. The great tower terminat- 
ing in a pyramidal spire, composed of 
combinations of colored stones, rises 
two hundred and forty-eight feet. 
Delicate carvings ornament the facade. 
In the beautiful arcade between the 
tower and the south transept are 
inscribed tablets. One bears this 
inscription : " Old South Church. Preserved and blessed of God for 
more than two hundred years while worshiping on its original site, 
corner of Washington and Milk streets, whence it was removed to this 



Nf.w Old South Church 



88 MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY 

building in 1875, ^^nid constant proofs of his guidance and loving favor. 
Qui trans tiilit sitstinet.'' Cummings & Sears were the architects of this 
church. 

The Second Church (Unitarian), descendant of the historic Old 
North Church of North Square, founded in 1649, i-'' ^^uilt in large part 
from the stones of the previous meetinghouse in Bedford Street, now 
in the business quarter, which was taken down in 1872. It is a plain 
Gothic exterior, beautified by a complete mantle of ivy. The interior 
is broad and lofty, showing the open-timbered roof. Interesting memo- 
rials of former pastors of distinction are here. In the transept at the 
right of the pulpit is a bust of Ralph Waldo Emerson (minister in 




NOI.OGV Bl'II.DINGS 



1829-1832) by Sidney II. Morse. On the other side of the transept is 
a portrait of Jolui Lathrop, the patriot minister of the Revolutionary 
period. In front of the pulpit is Cotton A'Iat/u'r''s pulpit cJiair. 

The two main buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology 
(founded by Professor William B. Rogers as a school of applied science, 
and chartered in 1861) occupy, together with the Natural History 
Museum, the entire square bounded by Boylston, Berkeley, Newbury, 
and Clarendon streets. They are the Rogers Building, dignified in 
design, with high portal approached by a noble flight of broad stone 
steps, and the severely plain IValker Building. In the former are the 
administrative oflices of the institution and the departments of mining, 
mathematics, drawing, history, economics, and English ; in the latter, 
the departments of physics and chemistry. Other buildings, the Plenry 
L. Pierce and Engineering buildings, in which are the departments of 
civil and mechanical engineering, architecture, naval architecture, biol- 
ogy, and geology, are in Trinity Place ; the Workshops are in Garrison 
Street, off Huntington Avenue ; and the Gymnasium is on Exeter 



NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 89 

Street. The several buildings comprise, in addition to drawing, recita- 
tion, and lecture rooms, eight laboratories or groups of laboratories. 

In the Rogers Building is Huntington Hall, in which the Society of Arts, 
organized with the institute for the encouragement of practical applica- 
tions of the sciences, has its meetings. Here, also, are given the free 
lecture courses of the Lowell Institute (founded in 1839 by the will of 
John Lowell, Jr.). The Lowell School of Practical Design, established 
by the trustees of the Lowell Institute (1872) for the promotion of 
industrial art in the United States, is maintained by the Institute of 
Technology in its workshops. In the rear of the main buildings, on 
Xewbury Street, is the TccJniology Clubhouse. 

The Natural History Museum, sedate and elegant in style and finish, 
fronts on Berkeley Street. It is the building of the Boston Society of 
Natural History, founded in 1831. It was erected in 1864. Over the 
entrance door is carved the society's seal, which bears the head of 
Cuvier. On the keystones of the windows are carved heads of animals, 
and a sculptured eagle surmounts the pediment. The collections in the 
halls and galleries of this museum are interesting and valuable, and are 
admirably arranged. Upon entering, in the first hall are seen the intro- 
ductory synoptical collection and sundry important geological speci- 
mens. From the ceiling of the main hall is suspended the large 
skeleton of a whale. In the library, which contains from thirty to 
forty thousand volumes, much consulted by students, are fine mineral- 
ogical, geological, and botanical collections. On the second floor is a 
hall filled with stuffed animals, geological, physiological, and fossil cases, 
and skeletons of elephants and extinct fauna. Conspicuous is the skele- 
ton of a gorilla. In the galleries here are New England tree and shrub 
and other botanical specimens ; also conchological collections. On 
the third and fourth floors are general ornithological and ethnological 
collections, with the magnificent Lafresnaye Collection of birds, nests, 
and eggs. Lecture halls and rooms are in the building, in which instruc- 
tion is given to classes of students. The museum is open to the public 
daily (except Sunday) from 9 a.m. to i p.m. and from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. 

Below Copley Square, in the neighborhood of Hnntini^ton Avenue, 
are other institutions of note. On Exeter Street, two blocks north, is 
the Massachusetts Normal Art School (established by the State in 1873), 
and on opposite corners the South Congregational Church, of which 
Edward Everett Hale is pastor emeritus, and the Boston Spiritual 
Temple. On St. Botolph Street, reached from Huntington Avenue by 
Garrison Street, is the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy (chartered 
1852). On the same street is Simmons Hall, the dormitory of the 
Simmons Female College (chartered 1899), established by the will of 



9° 



SYMPHONY HALL 




John Simmons, a Boston merchant, to furnish instruction in " such 
branches of art, science, and industry" as will "best enable women to 

earn an independent 
livelihood." 

The college has courses 
in household economics, 
secretarial work, library 
training, and science ; also 
courses preparatory to ad- 
mission to training schools 
for nurses. Henry Lafavor 
is the president, and Sarah 
L. Arnold the dean. 

The offices of this col- 
Chickering Hall lege are at 30 Hunting- 

ton Avenue. Farther 
down on the avenue is the Woman's Clubhouse in the Twentieth Century 
Building (No. 177). 

About the Junction of Huntington and Massachusetts Avenues. In this 
section are grouped more notable buildings, giving it a special distinc- 
tion. On the north side of Huntington Avenue, near the junction, is 
Chickering Hall, 
with ornamented 
fa9ade. Next, at 
the east corner of 
the two avenues, is 
Horticultural Hall, 
the fine building of 
the Massachusetts 
Horticultural So- 
ciety (organized 
1829), in which great 
exhibitions of flow- 
ers and fruits are 
held in their sea- 
sons. On the op- 
posit e corne r is 
Symphony Hall, successor of the old Music Hall as a " temple of 
music," where the concerts of the Boston Symphony Orchestra and 
the oratorios of the Handel and Haydn Society are given. 

Farther down Huntington Avenue, on the corner of Gainsborough 
Street, is the building of the New England Conservatory of Music 




Horticultural Hall 



MASSACHUSETTS HISTORIC A I. SOCIKTV 




Symphony Hall 



(established in 1867), the greatest institution of its kind in the country, 
embracing sixteen separate schools and training students in every 
branch of the art. Opposite this are the buildings of the New Eng- 
land Children's Hospital (incorporated in 1869). Still farther out is the 
Tufts College Medical and 
Dental School. 

Through IVestland 
Avenue, north of the 
junction of Huntington 
and Massachusetts 
avenues, we may reach 
the Fens, or Back Bay 
Park. At Hemenway 
Street is the Western 
entrance, with the 
Memorial Fountain, in 
commemoration of 
Ellen C. Johnson, 

superintendent of the State Reformatory School for Women at Sher- 
born, who left by her will a fund for the erection of a drinking font for 
animals at some public place in the city. 

On the Fenway, near Boylston Street, is the handsome house of the 
Boston Medical Library (founded in 1874), ornamenting the street. The 
principal reading room is Holmes Hall, named for Dr. Oliver Wendell 
Holmes and adonied with mementos of him. His own valuable med- 
ical library is preserved in the general collection of this library', the 

fourth in size of the 
medical libraries of the 
country. There is here 
the Storer collection of 
medical medals, remark- 
able in its variety and 
extent. 

At the corner of the 
Fenway and Boylston 
Street, facing the latter, is 
the house of the Massachusetts Historical Society (founded in 1791), the 
oldest historical society in the countiy, and probably in the world. This 
distinguished building was designed by Wheelwright & Haven, and 
was erected by the society in 1897-1899. It contains the society's rare 
library of forty-three thousand volumes, enriched with historical docu- 
ments and manuscripts. Over the entrance to the Dowse Library are 




Westla 



92 THE SOUTH END 

the crossed swords which used to rest above tlie library of William H. 
Prescott, and to which Thackeray alludes in the opening of " The Vir- 
ginians." The cabinet jmiseinn ^cv/r/W contains numerous interesting 
objects, among them the wooden Indian which topped the old Province 
House and the cannon ball which struck the Brattle Square Church 
during the Siege. The model of the historic meetinghouse is in the 
upper hall. The museum is open on Wednesday afternoons only, from 
2 to 5. The chief function of this society is to publish, and it has 
issued infinitely more publications than any other historical society 
in this country, and more than all the other societies combined, the 
number exceeding one hundred. Charles Francis Adams is the pres- 
ent president of the society, and Dr. Samuel A. Green has long been 
the librarian. The American Academy of 
Arts and Sciences (founded in 1780) is also 
JR established in this building. 

In the Fens, near by, is the monument to 
John Boyle O'Reilly, the Irish poet, editor, and 
athlete. We may pass along the Fens north- 
ward by a circling course to Charlesgate, and 
finish our tour in the newer residential part 
of this quarter, with its broad streets and fine 
John Boyle O'Reilly dwellings, locally termed the "New Back Bay." 
Monument Charlesgate is the passage through which 

Muddy River empties into the Charles River. 
The street ways on either side are called Charlesgate East and Charles- 
gate West. Bay State Road, making off from Charlesgate W^est to the 
riverside, is especially noticeable for its display of domestic architecture. 
On Charlesgate West and Commonwealth Avenue is the sumptuous 
Hotel Somerset. 

6. The South End 

The South End is now a faded quarter. Like the Back Bay it is 
composed largely of "made land." It was developed from the narrow 
neck connecting the old town with Roxbury, and was planned and 
built up on a generous scale to become the permanent fashionable part 
of the city. Such favor it was enjoying when the lavish development 
of the Back Bay began, and fashion was not long in turning from it and 
moving westward. With all its air of having-seen-better-days, however, 
this quarter still has attractions. Its streets are broad, some are shaded 
with fine trees ; numerous small parks are scattered through it ; many of 
the houses are yet substantial dwellings, with a look of roominess within; 



BOSTON CTTV llOSIMTAL 



93 



and various importaiU institutions are established within its borders. 
The latter most interest the visitor. 

Among the most noteworthy of these institutions are the Public Latin 
and English High Schools, on Warren Avenue, Dartmouth and Mont- 
gomery streets ; the Girls' High School, West Newton Street ; the Boston 
College (Roman Catholic, founded in iS6o), Harrison Avenue (No. 761), 
near East Newton Street ; the great Boston City Hospital, with its twenty- 
six buildings (a group of nineteen constituting the City Hospital proper, 
and a group of seven, in the South Department, for infectious diseases), 
occupying lands bounded by Harrison Avenue, East Concord Street, 
Albany Street, and Massachusetts Avenue ; and the group of buildings 

of the Massachusetts 

Homeopathic Hospital, 
with the School of Medi- 
cine (connected with 
Boston University), on 
East Concord Street 
and Harrison Avenue. 

Of the churches of 
tlie quarter the stone 
Cathedral of the Holy 
Cross (Roman Catho- 
hc), on Washington 
Street, at the corner of 
Maiden Street, is the 
greatest. It is the 
largest Catholic church in New England, and in some respects the 
finest. It is in the early English Gothic style. The interior is richly 
designed and embellished. The arch of the front vestibule is con- 
structed of bricks from the ruins of the Ursuline Convent on Mount 
Benedict (now leveled) in Somervdile, which was burned by a mob on 
the night of August 11, 1834. In the front yard of the edifice is the 
bronze statue of Columbus, by Alois Buyens (a replica of the San 
Domingo monument), erected in 1892. In the grounds at the rear, 
on the comer of Union Park Street and Harrison Avenue, is the arch- 
bishop's house, in which are the chief offices of the archdiocese. 
Another South P^nd Catholic church of note is the Church of the 
Immaculate Conception, on Harrison Avenue and East Concord Street 
(by the side of Boston College). The interior of this church is also 
rich in ornamentation. 

Of the older Protestant churches several have become " institutional 
churches," with numerous helpful activities. Such are the Berkeley 




A TvncAL Childuen's Playground 



94 



EAST BOSTON 



Temple, on Berkeley near Tremont Street ; the Every Day Church, 397 
Shawmut Avenue ; and the Warren Avenue Baptist Church, on Warren 
Avenue and West Canton Street. The Denison House (College Settle- 
ment) is at 93 Tyler Street, and the South End House at 20 Union Park 
Street. Among the churches still retaining the old parish methods 
are the Second Universalist Church, on Columbus x\venue ; the Clarendon 
Street Baptist Church, at the junction of Clarendon and Tremont streets; 
and the Church of the Disciples (Unitarian), on Warren Avenue and 
West Brookline Street, long the pulpit of James Freeman Clarke. The 
latter, however, is soon to move from this quarter to the Back Bay. 

Washington and Tremont streets and Shawmut and Columbus ave- 
nues are the great thoroughfares generally north and south through this 
quarter. Columbus Avenue opens at Park Square (from Boylston Street 
opposite the Common). In the square is the Emancipation Group, com- 
memorating the emancipation of the slaves by President Lincoln, an 
interesting piece of statuary by Thomas Ball. It was a gift to the city 
by Moses Kimball, long the owner of the old Boston Museum, and 
was erected in 1879. 



7. The Outlying Districts 

East Boston on its islands is a place of steamship docks and of great 
manufactories. In the days of wooden ships it was a center of ship- 
yards, whence fine craft were launched. Here were built splendid 
clipper ships for the California service in the gold-digging days. Now 




iNE Park 



its attractions for the visitor are slight, although several of its hill streets 
are pleasant, and wide harbor views open from various points. Belmont 
Square, on Camp Hill, marks the site of the fort erected in the Revolu- 
tionary period, and perhaps also the site of the fortified house of Samuel 
Maverick, the earliest white settler, in 1630. Wood Island Park, of the 
Metropolitan Parks System, lies on the harbor or south side of the main 
island. 



MARINE PARK 



95 



i 




Head House, Marine Park 



South Boston has also become a great industrial center and a place of 
shipping docks. Its points of popular interest to-day consist of the 
remnant of Dorchester Heights, — Telegraph Hill, — upon which is 
the monument " perpetuating the erection of American fortifications 
that forced the British to 
evacuate Boston, March 17, 
1776"; the Perkins Institu- 
tion for the Blind, the benefi- 
cent institution founded by 
Dr. Samuel G. Howe in 1829 ; 
and the beautiful water-front 
esplanade, the Marine Park, 
of the Boston Public Parks 
System. These are all at 
the east end of the district 
locally known as "The 
Point"; South Boston cars 
marked "City Point" reach 
them all. In the Marine Park 
is the admirable statue of 
Farragut, in bronze, by H. PI. Kitson. This was erected in 1893. The 
Point is a favorite yachting station, and several yacht clubhouses are 
situated here. In the lower part of the district the Lawrence school- 
house on West Third Street marks the site of Nook Hill, the historic 
interest of which is disclosed in the inscription on a tablet here. 

The Roxbury District also has interesting landmarks of the Revolu- 
tion. TliL^e are tlu- Roxbury forts, near Highland Street, in the neigh- 

■ borhood of Eliot Square, with its century- 

w ^ - - if \ old meetinghouse of the "First Religious 

' Society in Roxbury" (dating from 1632), 
t t'W the site of the first rude structure in 
J wliich John Eliot preached for more than 
I forty years. Roxbury Upper Fort is 
; marked by the lofty ornate white water 
4^ I I )i])e, on the hill of Highland Park, between 
I leach Glen and Fort avenues. The lines 
of the fort are indicated, and it is fittingly 
marked by a tablet. The site of the Lower Fort, a short distance 
northward, is pointed out in the yard of a dwelling on Highland Street. 
These forts, built by General Harry Knox, under the direction of Gen- 
eral Thomas, crowned the Roxbury lines of investment during the Siege 
of Boston. Highland Street, which leads from Eliot Square, is most 



Tablet a 



96 



ROXKURY DISTRICT 



interesting as the home of Edward Everett Hale, in a broad, roomy, old- 
time house (No. 39). On this street also was " Rocklands," the home 
of William Lloyd Garrison through his later years. On IVarren Street, 
not far from the Dudley Street terminal of the elevated railway, is the 
site of the birthplace of General Joseph Warren, now covered by a stone 
house built in 1846 by Dr. John Collins Warren, a tablet on its face 
informing us, "as a permanent memorial of the spot." Near by, on 
Kearsarge Avenue, w^as the home of Rear Admiral John A. Winslow of 
the Kearsarge which destroyed the Alabama in the Civil War. Here 
also is the Roxbury Latin School, only ten years the junior of the 
Boston Latin School, having been established in 1645. ^^^ ^'"'i-'' ^ciiool 

Warren was a master 
when he was but nine- 
teen years old. Near the 
old Boston line, at the 
corner of Washington 
and Eustis streets, is 
the ancient burying 
ground in which are the 
tombs of John Eliot and 
of the Dudleys, — Gov- 
ernor Thomas Dudley 
(died 1653), Governor 
Josepli Dudley (1720), 
C h i e f Justice Dudley 
(1752), and Colonel 
William Dudley (1743). 
In the western part of 
park in the Boston City 











ss^3 




^^^•■:' 


•sSii^^, 


^..■^2?'^=^^^ - 



IN THE WlLUKRNESS, FkANKLIN PaKK 



this district is Franklin Park, the largest singh 
Parks System. 

The West Roxbury District contains memorials of Theodore Parker, 
and embraces " Brook Farm," the place of the experiment in socialism 
by the Brook Farm Community of literary folk in 1841-1847, and the 
scene of Hawthorne's " Blithedale Romance." The old First Parish 
meetinghouse with its Wren tower, locally known as the Theodore 
Parker Church from Parker's nine years' ministry here, is still standing, 
though unused and dismantled. It is on Centre Street, close by the 
Central station of the railroad (Dedham Branch). Electric cars from 
Forest Hills pass its neighborhood. In front of its successor, a little 
farther up Centre Street, is a fine bronze statue of Parker. Farther 
along this main street, at the corner of Cottage Avenue, Parker's resi- 
dence also remains, — now occupied as the parish house of a neighboring 



DORCHESTER DISTRICT 



97 



Catholic church. Brook Farm is but httle changed in its outward 
aspect. It hes about a mile distant from Spring Street station on 
the railroad (by way of Baker Street). The Stony Brook Reservation of 
the Metropolitan Parks System is in this district. Forest Hills Cemetery, 
one of the most beautiful of modern burying grounds, is in another part 
of the district, close by the terminus of the Forest Hills lines of electrics 
and the Forest Hills station of the railroad. Here are the graves or 
tombs of General Joseph Warren, Rear Admirals Winslow and Thacher, 
William Lloyd Garrison, John (lilbert, the actor, Martin Milmore, the 
sculptor, and many others of distinction. At Milmore 's grave is the monu- 
ment representing the Angel of Death staying the hand of the sculptor, 
an exceptionally fine piece of sculpture by Daniel C. French. Jamaica 
Plain, in which are the Arnold Arboretum and Jamaica Park of the P)()ston 
City Parks System, is a part of this district. 

The Dorchester District is now essentially a place of homes. It 
embraces a series of hills, several of them commanding pleasant water 
views. Meetinghouse Hill, in the southern part, is crowned with a fine 
example of the New England meetinghouse of the early nineteenth 
century, in direct descent from the first meetinghouse of 1631. At 
Upham's Corner, on Dudley Street and Columbia Road, is the 
ancient burying ground, one of the most interesting in the country. 
Among the distinguished tombs here are those of Lieutenant Governor 
William Stoughton, chief justice of the court before which the witch- 
craft trials at Salem were held, and Richard Mather, the founder of the 
Mather family in New England. Many of the inscriptions on the stones 
are quaint, and there are a number of imposing tablets. 

The Brighton District was once the great cattle mart of New Eng- 
land, and famous also for its extensive market gardens and nurseries. 
A few of the latter remain, but the district is mainly a residential sec- 
tion so closely associated with newer Boston as to be a component 
part of it. 




98 



CAMBRIDGE 



II. THE METROPOLITAN REGION 

The thirty-six cities and towns comprising with modem Boston the 
MetropoUtan District (see Plate V), all lying in the "Boston Basin" 
[see p. 3], or touched by a circle with a radius of ten miles from the 
State House, are : 

Cities — Cambridge, Chelsea, Everett, Lynn, Maiden, Medford, Mel- 
rose, Newton, Quincy, Somerville, Waltham, and Woburn. 

Towns — Arlington, Belmont, Braintree, Brookline, Canton, Dedham, 
Hull, Hyde Park, Milton, Nahant, Lexington, Needham, Reading, 
Revere, Saugus, Stoneham, Swampscott, Wakefield, Watertown, Welles- 
ley, Weston, Weymouth, Winchester, and Winthrop. 

All of these places, with the exception of Hull and Nahant, are 
within the suburban districts of the railroads terminating in Boston, 
with frequent train service, and are embraced in the electric-railway 
system. 

CAMBRIDGE AND HARVARD 




^ J^ 






Harvard Square is our destination, and it is barely a half hour's 
ride by electric car taken in the Subway at Park Street station, or at 
Copley Square (Boylston Street), or further out on Massachusetts 
Avenue ; or by an electric car taken at Bowdoin Square. Let us agree 

to go by the latter 
route, purposing to 
return by the former, 
and not forgetting, ere 
we board the car in 
Bowdoin Square, to 
-lance at the venerable 
ULvere House, and 
< ~.pecially at the little 
iron-railed balcony from 
which Daniel Webster 
delivered many a 
famous speech. We soon reach Charles Street, with the County Jail 
frowning on the right, and cross Charles River by a temporary structure 
used while a new and massive bridge is building just north of it. 

The river crossed, we find ourselves in busy Cambridgeport so called, 
amid factories and workshops, notably the great Athenaeum Press of 
Ginn & Company, near the river. A mile or so beyond we pass 



Athenaeum Press 
First Street, near West Boston Bridge 



lARVARD UNIVKRSITV 



99 




Cherry Street ; and on Cherry Street (at the corner of Eaton Street) 
still stands the house in which Margaret Fuller was born. A little farther 
on at the left is Magazine Street, where, at the corner of Auburn Street. 
Washington Allston once lived. 
Nearby on the right one observes 
a fine building of reddish granite 
with brownstone trimmings and a 
clock tower. This is City Hall, 
the gift of Frederick II. Rindge. 
The ctrchitects were Longfellow, 
Alden & Harlow. A short 
distance back of the City Hall 
may be seen a tablet which marks 
the spot where General Israel Put- 
nam had his headquarters during 
the Siege of Boston. Other city 
institutions may be seen by leav- q^^^ Hall 

ing the car at Trowbridge Street, 

at the end of which will be found the Public Library (by Ware and Van 
Brunt, 1889) and the Manual Training wSchool (by Rotch and Tilden). 

These buildings 
also were the gift 
of Mr. Rindge. 
Close by are the 
Latin School and 
the English High 
School 

Let us suppose, 
however, that, 
with our minds 
fixed on the Har- 
vard University, 
we remain in the 
car until, round- 
ing a corner, we 
come upon a large 
Baptist church of 
slatestone. This 
has no connec- 
tion with the university, but it stands in strange contiguity with Beck 
Hall, perhaps the most costly and luxurious of Harvard dormitories, — 
not the property of the college. Alighting here, we find ourselves at 




Grounds of Harvard University 



IIARVARU UNIVERSITY 



once on sacred ground. In front of us, and to the left, is the "yard.'- 
To the right and separated from the yard by Qiiiucy Street is the new 
Harvard Union, erected 1901, of which Henry L. Higginson and the late 
Henry Warren were the chief donors. McKim, Mead & White were the 
architects. It contains offices for the college papers, bilUard rooms, 
a restaurant, a good library, and a large assembly room. It is a sort 
of home or meeting ground for graduates and undergraduates. Just 
beyond is the Colonial Club, where may be found the quintessence of 
Cambridge, the literary and academic elite. These buildings are on the 
right of Quincy Street. Upon the opposite side of the street, the first 

house, on the corner and 
within the yard, was for- 
merly the Harvard Observa- 
tory. Afterward it was the 
home of President Felton, 
and later of the venerated 
Professor A. P. Peabody. 
The boundary wall of the 
yard in front of this build- 
ing, built in 1 90 1, was given 
by the class of 1S80. The 
brick house next beyond it 
is the residence of President 
Eliot, and beyond that is a 
house occupied by Professor Shaler, upon the site of which is soon to 
be erected a hall in memory of Ralph Waldo Emerson. 

Let us now retrace our steps and, turning the comer by the sometime 
observatory, we come first to a gate given by Mrs. Wirt Dexter to com- 
memorate her son, Samuel Dexter, a member of the class of 1890, who 
died in 1S94. Next is the gate erected by the class of 1877, and 
entering here we find ourselves in front of the Library, or Gore Hall. 
The original building was the gift of Christopher Gore, a leading 
lawyer and governor of Massachusetts. Enlargements of modern date 
have increased its usefulness, if not its beauty. The library contains 
400,200 bound volumes, and this number is swelled by outlying collec- 
tions in various departments of the university to 607,100, — to say 
nothing of pamphlets. For students who feel unequal to mastering 
the library as a whole, a small lot of 22,500 volumes is provided 
on the easily accessible shelves of the reading room. Among the 
valuable private collections that have been contributed to the library 
are Parkman's books, George Ticknor's collection of Dante literature, 
and Carlyle's collection of books relating to Cromwell and Frederick 




HARVARD UNIVERSITY loi 

the Great. Emerging from the library and skirting the yard to the 
right, ^Ye come first to Sever Hall, a recitation building, simj)le, sub- 
stantial, and dignified, the work of the late II. II. Richardson. It was 
built in iSSo from a fund given by Mrs. Anne 1\. !'. Sever. To the left 
is the college chapel, called Appleton Chapel, a building of light stone 
erected in 1858, the gift of Samuel Ai)plt,'ton. Beyond it and facing on 
Cambridge Street is a new building of stone, almost white, brought 
from Indiana. This is the William Hayes Fogg Art Museum, erected 
in 1895, and given by Mrs. Elizabeth Fogg. It contains a large collection 
of casts, statues, engravings, coins, etc., but leaves something to be 
desired in point of beauty. Turning sharply to the left and continuing 
to skirt the yard, we find at the bend in the road the Phillips Brooks 
House, designed by A. W. Longfellow. It is the center of the religious 
life of the university. In this vicinity are two gates, one given by the 
class of 1876 and one by the class of 1886. 

Leaving this house behind us and turning our steps toward the center 
of the Yard, we come first to Holworthy, which was erected in 18 12 
from money obtained by a lottery. Back of Holworthy, by the way, 
is a gate given by George Von L. INIeyer, our ambassador to Italy. 
Holworthy, from its slightly elevated site at the head of the yard, 
occupies a commanding position, and has always been a favorite build- 
ing. It was the tirst dormitory that made any pretense to luxury, for 
it is arranged in suites of three rooms for " chums," — a study in front 
and two bedrooms in the rear of the building. Class-Day spreads and 
Commencement punches always found in Holworthy their fittest home. 
Ill front of Holworthy the Glee Club sings, and noted men gather in 
groups. Standing here we obtain the best view of the beautiful yard, 
with its great elms, its shadows, its splashes of sunshine on the turf; 
or, of a Cla.ss-Day night, its festoons of Japanese lanterns swaying from 
tree to tree. Who can number the romances that have been transacted 
or begun in the deeply recessed window seats, in the somber, academic, 
almost monastic shades of Holworthy Hall ! Time presses, however, 
and we must glance at the other buildings in the Quadrangle. 

Turning to the right or westerly side of the yai'd, we come first to 
Stoughton, a dormitory built in 1805. In its rear, or nearly so, is Holden 
Chapel, the gift (1744) of Madame Holden of London, and once the 
college chapel. It is now" used for society meetings. Just south of 
Holden Chapel is a gate given by the class of 1873, and north of that 
a gate and sundial erected by the class of 1S70. Next comes Hollis 
Hall, also a dormitory, which dates back to 1763 and was the gift of 
Thomas Hollis of London. Three generations of that family were 
benefactors of the college. This building was used as barracks by 



HAK\'AKI) UNIVERSITY 




Hakvard Gate, Class of 1877 



the American soldiers in the Revokition at the time when the college 
was temporarily removed to Concord. Next to Hollis is Harvard Hall, 
a building which replaced an earlier Harvard Hall burned in 1764. 

The present building 
was also used as bar- 
racks in the Revolu- 
tionary War. It now 
holds some special 
libraries. There is a 
cupola on Harvard 
Hall containing a bell 
which rings, for prayers 
and recitations. The 
space between the cor- 
ners of the two build- 
ings, Harvard and 
Hollis, is only five or six feet, and there is a tradition that once a 
student, trying to steal the tongue of the bell, heard the janitor mount- 
ing the cupola, and running down the steep roof of Harvard, jumped 
across the gap and landed safely on the roof of Hollis, whence he 
escaped. 

Next in order comes Massachusetts, but between Massachusetts Hall 
and Harvard Hall is the principal entrance from the street to the 
college yard, through the beautiful Johnston gateway, designed by 
Charles F. McKim. This is inscribed with the orders of the General 
Court relating to the establishment of the college in 1636-1639 and 
this extract : 

After fiod had carried vs safe to New England 

and wee had bvilded ovr hovses 

provided necessaries for ovr liveli hood 

reard convenient places for Gods worship 

and settled the civill government 

one of the next things we longed for 

and looked after was to advance learning 

and perpetvate it to posterity 

dreading to leave an illiterate ministry 

to the churches when our present ministers 

shall die in the dvst 

New Englands First Fruits. 

Massachusetts Hall, the oldest of the college buildings, was a gift to 
the college by the Province in 1720. This hall also was occupied by 
troops during the Revolution. Aftenvard it became a dormitory again. 



HARVARD UNIVERSITV 103 

later a lecture room, and it is now used for meetings and public pur- 
poses. Beyond Massachusetts, in our tour of the Quadrangle, comes 
Matthews Hall, a dormitory erected in 1872 through the generosity of 
Nathan Matthews of Boston. This hall is said to stand on the site of 
the old Indian College, which was built in 1654 and in which several 
Indian youths struggled with the classics. One of them, Caleb Chee- 
shahteaumuck, took a degree and died. Just beyond Matthews Hall, and 
facing on the square, is Dana Hall. This was formerly the Law School, 
but is now occupied by the Harvard Cooperative Association and by a 
psychological laboratory. We come next to Gray's Hall, a modern 
dormitory which faces Holworthy Hall, at the south end of the yard. 
It was the gift (1853) of Francis C. Gray of Boston, and its site is 
probably that of the first college building. Back of Gray's Hall, and 
close to the street, is an ancient wooden building, yet of dignified 
aspect, called Wadsworth House. This house was built in 1726, jointly 
by the Colony and by the college, as a residence for the presidents of 
the institution. It was Washington's headquarters until, as we shall 
presently see, he removed to the Longfellow house on Brattle Street. 
The present speaker of the Massachusetts House of Representatives, 
James J. Myers, who after his graduation at Harvard became a tutor 
and proctor, took up his residence in Wadsworth House at that time, 
and, with rare fidelity, has remained there ever since. Returning now 
to the Quadrangle, the substantial granite building standing a little 
back and near the street is Boylston Hall, built in 1857 from money 
bequeathed by Ward Nicholas Boylston, whose picture, in fiowered- 
silk dressing gown and cap, lights up Memorial Hall. Boylston Hall 
is devoted to chemistry. Next in order, and facing Matthews Hall, is 
Weld Hall, a dormitory given to the college in 1872 by William F. Weld. 
Beyond that is a simple, graceful, and dignified building of white granite, 
built in 181 5 from a design by Bulfinch. It is called University Hall, 
and for many years was the main recitation building. It is now used 
as an office building. Univei'sity Hall and Sever Hall might perhaps 
1)6 described as the two buildings in the yard which are beautiful in 
themselves, apart from any association. Beyond University, standing 
at right angles wuth Holworthy, is Thayer Hall, a dormitory given to 
the college in 1870 by Nathaniel Thayer. 

Passing out of the Quadrangle and continuing to Cambridge Street, 
which bounds the yard on the north, we have within view many build- 
ings, mostly of recent construction, belonging to the university. Oppo- 
site the Phillips Brooks House, on the other side of the street, is the 
Hemenway Gymnasium, given by Augustus Hemenway in 1878. To 
the right is the Lawrence Scientific School building, given by Abbott 



I04 HARVARD UNIVERSITY 

Lawrence in 1847, and reenforced in 18S4 l)y a building in Holmes's 
Field just beyond, erected by T. Jefferson Coolidge of Boston. In this 
last building the visitor may behold an electric machine given to the 
college by Benjamin FrankUn, and a telescope used by Professor John 
Winthrop. Immediately in front of us is a triangular-shaped piece of 
ground called the Delta, formerly the college playground, until Memo- 
rial Hall, designed by Ware and Van Brunt, was built there in the 
seventies. The statue in the Delta is an ideal statue of John Harvard, 
whose bequest of his library to the college in 1636 was really its start- 
ing point. It is the work of Daniel C. French, and the gift of Samuel 
J. Bridge. The exterior of Memorial Hall may perhaps strike the visitor 
as lacking unity and simplicity, but the interior will not disappoint him. 
Memorial Hall proper, where are inscribed the names of those Harvard 
graduates who died in the Civil War, is noble and impressive ; and the 
great dining hall, which occupies the whole western end of the building, 
with room for over a thousand students, which is paneled with oak, 
beautified by memorial stained-glass windows, and filled with pictures 
and busts, all of which have an historic and some of which have an 
artistic interest, is probably unique in this country. 

If, before entering Memorial Hall (and Sanders Theatre), we turn to 
the right on leaving the college yard, we shall come first to Robinson 
Hall, at the corner of Quincy Street and Broadway, the architectural 
building, containing many casts and engravings. On the opposite 
side of Broadway^ in the "Little Delta," is the old gymnasium, built 
in 1858, now used for miscellaneous purposes. 

Of the many other buildings belonging to the university in this neigh- 
borhood only a few caa be mentioned. Randall Hall, at the corner of 
Divinity Avenue, with a dining room that seats five hundred, is a good 
piece of architecture, constructed by Wheelwright & Haven. Beyond 
are the Semitic Museum ; Divinity Hall, an unsectarian theological school ; 
the Peabody Museum, founded in 1866 by George Peabody, the American 
banker of London; the Agassiz Museum; the Botanical Museum; the 
Museum of Comparative Zoology; and the Geological Museum. All of 
these are open to visitors, and all contain something to interest even 
the unscientific person. 

Returning to the vicinity of the yard, mention should be made of 
the Law School building, near the Hemenway Gymnasium, as this 
harbors one of the strongest departments of the univejsity. The 
Harvard Law School has not only a national but an international repu- 
tation, and it has been described by an English jurist as superior to any 
other school of the kind in the world. The building was designed by 
H. H. Richardson, the architect of Sever Hall, to which, however, it is 



WASHINGTON ELM 



105 



scarcely equal. The library contains forty-four thousand volumes. Near 
this hall once stood the yellow gambrel-roofed house in which Dr. Oliver 




Cambkiuge 
Wendell Holmes was born. It was removed about twenty years ago. 
The statue of Charles Sumner, by Miss Anne Whitney, is in the triangular 
plot of ground near by. 
Leaving the univer- 
sity buildings we cross 
the Cambridge Com- 
mon to the west of the 
yard, formerly, by the 
way, a place of execu- 
tion, and once the 
scene of an open-air 
sermon by Whitefield. 
Here is a bronze 
statue of John Bridge, 
the Puritan, in the garb 
of his time, an excellent 
piece of sculpture by 
Thomas R. Gould and 
his son, Marshall S. 

Gould. In the roadway, just west of the Common, stands the time- 
worn Washington Elm, to which is alifixed a tablet stating the historic fact 
that under this tree Washington first took command of the American 




ASHINGTON 



io6 



RADCLIFFE COLLEGE 



army. Opposite the Washington Elm is the group of buildings belong- 
ing to Radcliffe College, the girls' college, a recognized and highly suc- 
cessful part of the university. These buildings are on the corner of 
Garden and Mason streets. 

This venture of giving women instruction in the same studies that were pur- 
sued at Harvard was begun in a small way in 1S79. It was not a part of Harvard, 
but, as a humorous student remarked, it was a Harvard Annex. The name came 
into common use. The professors and tutors as a rule were strongly in favor 




Longfellow House 



of the scheme, some even offering to teach for nothing rather than have it fail. 
The Annex was a success. The Fay house on Garden Street was bought. Lady 
Anne Moulson in 1643 ^^^ given ^^looas a scholarship to Harvard, the first one. 
Her maiden name was Radcliffe, and as the Annex grew it was incorporated as 
Radcliffe College, and now has several fine buildings, a large number of students, 
and its diplomas bear the seal of the older institution and the signature of its 
president. In the Fay house, by the way, in 1836, the words of " Fair Harvard" 
were written by the Rev. Samuel Oilman of Charleston, S.C. 

Returning toward the college we pass Christ Church, which was 
built in 1760 by Peter Harrison, who designed King's Chapel in Bos- 
ton. Washington w^orshiped here. Adjoining the church is an old 
burying ground which dates from 1636, the year of the founding of the 
college. Near the fence will be observed a milestone bearing this 
inscription: "Boston, 8 miles. 1734." Tfiis was one of many mile- 
stones set up by Governor Dudley ; and what is now a legend was 



LONGFELLOW AND LOWELL HOUSES 



107 



t^t. « ^ -I I Jl-I 

iiyy yi:i 






once true, for, before the bridges were constructed over the Charles 
River between Boston and Cambridge, the highway connecting the 
two places ran through Boston Neck and what is now lirighton, and 
was no less than eight miles long. 

Some outlying spots might well be visited if time allowed, and espe- 
cially Soldier's Field, the present extensive playground of the univer- 
sity, and the gift of Major Henry L. Higginson. This borders upon the 
river, half a mile or so south of the yard, and near it are the Harvard 
boathouses. Brattle Street, the " Tory Row " of Provincial days, is 
easily reached by electric car from Harvard Square, and is full of inter- 
est. Here are the stone buildings of the Episcopal Theological School, 
and just above them 
the Longfellow house, 
one of the finest of 
colonial mansions. It 
was built about the 
year 1759 by Colonel 
John Vassall, a refugee 
of the Revolution. 
Washington took up 
his headquarters here 
when he removed from 
Wadsworth House, 
and here M a d a m 
Washington joined 
him. Afterward t h e 

estate passed into the hands of various owners: was used as a lodging 
house by Harvard professors when the widow Craigie owned it ; was 
occupied by such distinguished persons as Jared Sparks, Edward 
Everett, and Worcester, the dictionary maker ; and finally became the 
home of the poet Longfellow. It is now occupied by a daughter. Miss 
Alice Longfellow, and next to it is the home of another daughter who 
married a public-spirited citizen, Richard H. Dana, son of the distin- 
guished lawyer who wrote " Two Years Before the Mast," and grandson 
of the poet of the same name. About ten minutes' walk on Brattle 
Street beyond the Longfellow house brings us to the corner of Ebnwood 
Avenue, which leads past the familiar Lowell house, where James Russell 
Lowell was born, and which was his lifelong home. The seclusion of the 
house, which Lowell so much enjoyed, is now impaired by the parkway 
which skirts the Lowell grove. Mt. Auburn Street itself has been mod- 
ernized by a succession of pubUc hospitals and the like. Back of these 
hospitals, on the river, the curious visitor may behold the site where Leif 




Lowell House 



io8 MOUNT AUBURN 

Ericson built his house in the year looi, or thereabout, — according to the 
identitiration of Professor El:)en N. Horsford, whose other memorials of 
supposed Norsemen we shall encounter later. Close at hand is Mount 
Auburn, celebrated for its natural beauty, as well as for the distinguished 
dead who lie buried here. In the vestibule of the brownstone chapel at 
the left of the entrance to the cemetery are the much-admired statues of 
John Winthrop (by Greenough), John Adams (by Randall Rogers), James 
Otis (by Thomas Crawford), and Joseph Story (by his son). Turning to 
the left we seek Fountain Avenue and the graves of the Rev. Charles 
Low^ell, of his son, James Russell Lowell, and of the latter's three 
nephews, all of whom were killed in the Civil War. " Some choice 
New England stock in that little plot of ground." On the ridge back 
of this lot is the monument of Longfellow, and near by (on Lime 
Avenue) the grave of Holmes. If, instead of turning to the left from 
the entrance, we ascend the hill to the right, passing the statue of Bow- 
ditch, the mathematician, we shall come to the old Gothic chapel now 
used as a crematory. Facing this stands the famous Sphinx, the work 
of Martin Milmore. Among other monuments in various parts of the 
cemetery are those of William Ellery Channing (Green-Briar Path), 
Hosea Ballon (Central Avenue), Charles Sumner (Arethusa Path), 
Edward Everett (Magnolia Avenue), Charlotte Cushman (Palm 
Avenue), Edwin Booth (Anemone Path), Louis Agassiz (Bellwort 
Path), Anson Burlingame (Spruce Avenue), Samuel G. Howe (near 
Spruce Avenue), and Phillips Brooks (Mimosa Path). In the Fuller 
lot (Pyrola Path) is a monument to Margaret Fuller Ossoli. 

From the cemetery a Huron Avenue car will take us to the Astro- 
nomical Observatory, and by walking through the observatory grounds we 
can reach the Harvard Botanic Gardens, laid out in 1807. These gardens, 
open to the public, are full of interesting features, such as a bed of 
Shakespearean flowers, another of flowers mentioned by Virgil, and still 
another of such quaint plants as grew in an old-time New England garden. 

The sight-seeing resources of Cambridge are not yet exhausted, but 
the sight-seer may be; and so from the Botanic Gardens we will take 
an electric car for Boston, " stopping off," however, at Ha^-vard Scjiiare. 
Across Massachusetts Avenue, at the corner of Dunsier Street, we may 
observe the site, marked by a tablet, of the house of Stephen Daye, 
first printer in British America, 1 638-1 648. Here were printed the " Bay 
Psalm- P)Ook " and P^liot's Indian Bible. Farther down Dunster Street, at 
the corner of Mt. Auburn Street, is marked the site of the first meeting- 
house in Cambridge, set up in 1632 ; and still farther down, at the corner 
of South Street, is a tablet where once stood the house of Thomas 
Dudley, founder of Cambridge, who lived here till 1630. 



BROO KLINE 109 

From the south side of Massachusetts Avenue leads oti Bow Street, 
once the great highway through these parts ; and here may still be seen 
the colonial mansion occupied in prerevolutionary days by Colonel 
David Phii)s. In the same street the regicides VVhalley and Goffe were 
in hiding (1660) until the king, learning of their presence, ordered their 
arrest ; they fled to New Haven. Just above Bow Street is Plymptoii 
Street, where, shut in by modern brick dormitories, is a fine wooden 
colonial mansion, constructed about 1761 by the Rev. East Apthorp, 
rector of Christ Church. Mr. Apthorp, it was sujjposed, aspired to 
be a bisho]), and consec^uently his house was called in derfsioii the 
"Bishop's Palace." Burgoyne was lodged here after his surrender at 
Saratoga. 

Taking an electric car again, we return to Boston via the new Hai'- 
7'ard Bridge. Two hundred years ago this would have been a ride on 
horseback, or in a chaise, of eight miles, and over a rough road. Now 
it is a trip of three or four miles, accomplished, luxuriously, in less than 
half an hour. Cotton Mather would have shuddered at the change ; 
and yet the University is now so large, and so completely a little world 
in itself, that even the proximity of Boston can hardly rufifle its com- 
posure or divert its scholastic energies. 

BROOKLINE 

Brookline is the richest suburb of Boslcjn and in many respects the 
most attractive, with numerous beautiful estates and tasteful "villas" 
and charming drives. During all the years since its population entitled 
it to a city charter, its people have steadfastly refused to give up their 
primitive government by the New England town meeting, just as they 
have declined all propositions looking to annexation to Boston, although 
their territory is embraced on three sides by the encroaching munici- 
pality. It began, however, as a possession of Boston. As " Muddy 
River," so first called from the stream which still bears the name and 
contributes no little to the attractiveness of the Fenway section of the 
Boston City Parks System, its fertile fields were originally utilized by 
the chief settlers at Boston as a " grazing-place for their swine and 
other cattle, while corn" was on the ground in Boston. For a time, 
through this usage, it was known as "Boston Commons." It was set 
off as an independent town only in 1705, when the name of Brooklyn 
was given it, and its inhabitants were "enjoyned to build a meeting- 
house and obtain an Orthodox minister," — so closely were civic and 
ecclesiastical prerogatives blended in the government then. 

We may reach Brookline from Boston easily, quickly, and cheaply 



no BACK BAY FENS 

by several routes. The Newton Circuit line of the New York Central 
Railroad (South Station, or Trinity Place Station, a few steps from 
Copley Square) skirts and traverses the town, and has four stations 
within its borders. Various trolley lines cover it more generally, — via 
Tremont Street and Roxbury Crossing to Brookline Village ; via Boyls- 
ton and Ipswich streets and Brookline Avenue to the same point ; via 
Beacon Street to the Chestnut Hill reservoir; via Huntington Avenue 
and Brookline Village to several destinations. F'or the purpose of rapid 
exploration the trolley is superior to the steam railway, and the last-named 




Bridge in the Fens 



line is the most convenient. In the Subway, or on Boylston Street or 
Huntington Avenue, or at Copley Square we may take any outward-bound 
car bearing the legend " Brookline Village via Huntington Avenue." 

Leaving Copley Square we soon pass the succession of notable build- 
ings about and beyond Massachusetts Avenue, and presently traverse a 
quite open territory. On the left are the large grounds and buildings 
of the Boston American Baseball Club ; and if we look still farther 
to the south we can see beyond the New York, New Haven & Hartford 
Railroad tracks the similar plant of its rival (National) association. On 
our right is a wide expanse of the land reclaimed from the primeval 
salt marsh, whereon occasional circuses and other tent shows encamp. 
Beyond this not inviting tract we catch glimpses of the Back Bay 
Fens, — part of the Boston City Parks System, — which follow the 
general course of the tortuous Muddy River from its mouth at the 



GARDNER MUSEUM 




Charles to a point near Brook line Avenue, where they narrow into the 
Riverw'ay. 

Near the Tremont entrance to the Fens from Huntington Avenue 
we get a view of "The Isabella Stuart Gardner Museum of Art," as the 
Italian palace built by Mrs. John E. Gardner from materials imported 
by her from Venice is officially called, — its opening to ticket holders 
at stated intervals constituting it a public museum in the eye of the 
law and so permitting the admission, duty free, of the magnificent col- 
lection of foreign antiquities and works of art wdth which it is enriched. 
Outwardly the building is severely plain and its background gives no 
idea of palace surround- 
ings, but from its upper 
windows the outlook 
across the Fens, the 
city, and the river is 
attractive. A little far- 
ther on we pass the 
House of the Good 
Shepherd, a Catholic 
institution for the shel- 
ter and reclamation of 
wayward women and 
girls, — a large brick 
structure set in ample 
grounds. 

As we cross the Riverway just at the foot of Leverett Pond, into 
which the river here widens, a pleasing vista opens out to the left. On 
either side of the tranquil lake are superb driveways, which of a pleasant 
afternoon are crowded with vehicles. A few rods farther on we are 
brought to our immediate destination. Village Square, where free trans- 
fers to other trolley lines may be made. Since our present object is to see 
something of the historical side of Brookline, as well as the part wherein 
is most exhibited the progress attained in the art of the landscape archi- 
tect, we will here transfer to another car. We may remark in passing 
that on the left of the street (Washington) by which we entered the 
square stood in the old days the " Punch-Bowl Tavern," built about 
1730, — before the Revolution a favorite junketing place for British 
officers from the Boston garrison, and for nearly a century the stopping 
place of the stagecoaches for Worcester and other inland towns, and 
for the great goods wagons, the pioneers of our modern freight trains. 

Boylston Street, originally the Worcester turnpike, branches off to the 
left, and since the Ipswich Street line of cars from Boston, mentioned 



The Gardner Museum of Art 



112 POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 

above, continues out through this street, we will take one of them for 
the rest of our journey in this direction. For a little way the street is 
lined with buildings more utilitarian than elegant, but soon we pass 
on the left the immense and modernly complete William H. Lincoln 
Schoolhouse and enter upon a region of large and imposing estates, 
rising to either side of the road on the great pudding-stone ledges, the 
country rock of all this section. In two or three minutes more we 
come face to face with the granite gatehouse of the old Brookline Res- 
ervoir (fifty years ago the chief distributing basin of the Boston Water- 
works), still in service, though its capacity is diminutive as compared 
with reservoirs of later date or with the needs of the city. 

Here we will leave the car for a stroll over earless streets in Brook- 
line's choicest parts. We take Warren Street up the hill to Wahnit 
Street^ the first turn to the left. On either side are handsome dwellings 
with generous grounds, and on the far corner of Walnut Street stands 
the fine stone church of the old First (Unitarian) Parish. A little 
way below^ on Walnut Street, is the ancient Town Burying Ground, 
lying close to the sidewalk, a serene old-time inclosure encompassed 
by modern structures, with mounds and vales, rural paths and vener- 
able trees. Near the street, one of the highest of the mounds contains 
the tombs of the Gardner and Boylston families, both prominent in 
Brookline town history. Perhaps the most eminent Boylston who lies 
here was Dr. Zabdiel Boylston, who introduced in America the practice 
of inoculation, as the tablet's extended inscription relates. He died 
in 1766, aged 87. The slab over the Gardner tomb contains thirty 
names, among them that of the single minuteman from Brookline 
killed at Lexington. A near-by ancient headstone informs that the 
widow of the Rev. Increase Mather of Boston lies buried here. 

Returning to Warren Street (named for the famous Boston surgeon. 
Dr. John C. Warren, who owned the lands through which it winds), 
we may continue for a mile or more between splendid estates with 
stately houses set in velvety lawms fringed with trees. At the opening 
of Dudley Street is the fine old " Clark house," built early in the nine- 
teenth century, latterly the home of Frederick Law Olmsted, the noted 
landscape architect, to whose skill a good part of the town ow'es much 
of its beauty. The extensive country seat beyond it, covering many 
acres, is the Gardner place, that of the late John E. Gardner; and 
on the left hand is the beautiful Sargent place, the estate of Professor 
Charles S. Sargent, perhaps the richest in the town as regards landscape. 

At Cottage Street Warren Street turns off abruptly to the right and, 
after a somewhat erratic course, loses itself in Heath Street, which 
emerges upon Boylston Street just above the Reservoir. On the 



POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 113 

right-hand farther corner of Cottage Street is the unique and celebrated 
old Goddard house, wliosc huge chimney l)ears the date 1730. Its quaint 
architecture, the old-fashioned garden which surrounds it, and the beauti- 
ful trees and shrubs which form its setting, make it one of the most 
worthy memorials of Province days. Next beyond, on the Warren Street 
side, is the castlelike country house of the late Barthold Schlesinger, 
behind noble trees and dominating a grand expanse of diversified land 
scape. Joining this extensive estate is the equally noteworthy Winthrop 
place, the former country seat of the late Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, 
its lands stretching to Clyde Street. A httle farther along, on the 
left, is the Lee place, long the summer home of the late Henry Lee, 
a sterling Postonian of his day; on the right, the Augustus Lowell 
estate, — these among others; and where Warren Street ends in Heath, 
the Theodore Lyman estate, by some authorities named as the finest of 
modern country seats in this region. 

We skirt this beautiful place as we continue through Heath Street. 
Turning down Boylston Street to the right, we soon see on the oppo- 
site (north) side of the way Fisher Avenue, which climbs over the hill 
of the same name on top of which are two reservoirs, one belonging to 
the city of Boston, the other to the town of Brookline. On the lower 
Cfnner of Boylston Street stands the stately residence of Henry M. 
Whitney, its sides mantled in ivy. On a shaded slope, a little below, 
is the old Boylston house, occupying the site of the original homestead 
of the family, which was once almost seignorial in this town. Its head 
was Thomas Boylston, 2d, a surgeon who settled here in 1665, and 
whose son was the eminent Dr. Zabdiel Boylston, whose monument we 
saw in the old burying ground. One of the daughters was the wife of 
John Adams and mother of the second President of the United States. 
Dr. Zabdiel Boylston built the present house. During the Revolution 
it sheltered some of the patriot troops. 

At Cottage Street, on our route through Warren, we might have 
turned off to the south for a walk to Jamaica Pond and Park (Boston 
City Parks System), something more than a half mile distant ; and at 
Clyde Street we might have taken a stroll southwest for three quarters 
of a mile to Clyde Park, the property of the Boston Country Club, where 
the most fashionable racing events and golf and tennis matches here- 
abouts take place. But there is more to see in the northern part of 
the town. 

Accordingly we take a car back to Village Square, changing there to 
one bearing the legend "Newton Boulevard." This conveys us along 
Washington Street, through the business center, pa.st the post office, 
the steam railroad station, — trains cross underneath the street, — the 



114 POINTS OF INTEREST IN KROOKLINE 

fine granite Town Hall, and the brick Public Library building (capacity 
of this library, 75,000 volumes) on the right. We now enter upon a 
region of ample, homelike-looking houses, generously encompassed by 
well-kept grounds. 

To our left we see Aspinwall Hill rise sharply, its sides here and there 
showing open patches of pleasant lawn among the tree-embowered 
estates. An occasional break in the line of front walls inclosing the 
Washington Street properties accommodates a " path " of steep stairs 
leading up to Gardner Road, the first of the series of streets partly 
encircling the hill. Many others there are, in sweeping curves or cres- 
cents, entering upon and continuing short bits of straight highway. The 
landscape architects have happily avoided the mistake of trying to lay 
out a swelling hilltop in rectangles. 

We may alight at Gardner Path, hedge- and vine-bordered, which will 
bring us up to the most picturesque part of Gardner Circle. To our left 
is the Blake estate, occupying part of the original Muddy River farm 
of the Rev. John Cotton, the early colonial minister of the church 
in Boston. Above, on one of the most sightly parts of the slope, stood, 
until within a year or two, the old Aspinwall house, shaded by fine elms. 
Its site now bears a modern mansion. Dr. William Aspinwall, who 
built it in 1803, was a notable physician in his day, a minuteman from 
the town, and a patriot all through the Revolution. His house — a 
grand one in its period, and to its last day a dignified, ample structure — 
was once the only dwelling on this side of the hill, and commanded the 
whole sweep of the Charles River and the then distant town of Boston 
in its outlook. Ascending to the top of the hill, if we desire, by a sort 
of switch-back arrangement of curving and gradually rising roads, we 
pass many attractive residences, mostly new, our highest point being 
reached on the S-shaped Addington Road, two hundred and forty feet 
above sea level. From here, so far as the breaks between the rows of 
apartment houses will permit, we catch glimpses of country hills to the 
south, and of the village at our feet ; to the north, across the Beacon 
Street Boulevard, rises Corey Hill, two hundred and sixty feet high, 
formerly part of the extensive farm of Deacon Timothy Corey, now 
covered with showy modern estates. 

We can descend to the boulevard in a few minutes by Addington 
Path and Winthrop Road, and take any Newton Boulevard car, west- 
bound, which will convey us shortly to Beacon Circle, directly facing 
which is the high embankment and gatehouse of the Chestnut Hill 
Reservoir, through which flows a great part of the water supply of Bos- 
ton. Here to the left is the High-Service Pumping Station, a group of 
solid buildings of some architectural merit, especially when seen across 



POINTS OF INTEREST IN BROOKLINE 115 

the beautiful expanse of waters making up the reservoir. 'Jlie pumps 
are among the largest and finest of their class. 

From this point our car turns to the right through Chestnut Hill 
Avenue, along the eastern edge of the reservoir, and immediately we 
reenter Boston. To our right are various roads with English and Scotch 
names, making up the Aberdeen District, an attractive and healthful 
addition to the city's "sleeping room," lately built up in the midst of 
what was primeval forest and ragged ledges of pudding stone. To our 
left, as Ve turn into Commonwealth Avenue, the grounds surrounding 
the twin lakes of the reservoir have been taken by the Metropolitan 
Water Board and converted into the Reservoir Park, one of the most 
restful and charming pleasure grounds to be found in the neighborhood 
of any great city. All around the winding outlines of the basin runs 
a trim driveway, and beside it a smooth gravel footpath. On all sides 
of the lake are symmetrical knolls, covered with forest trees and the 
greenest of turf. The banks to the water's edge are sodded and bor- 
dered with flowering shrubs ; and the stonework, which in one place 
carries the road across a natural chasm, and the great natural ledges, 
are mantled with clinging vines, and in autumn are aflame with the 
crimson of the Ampelopsis and the Virginia creeper. On the southern 
side, close to the narrow isthmus dividing the upper from the lower 
lake, stands a classical gatehouse, and behind it Chestnut Hill rears its 
wooded mass, crowned with some attractive dwellings. A pleasant, 
shaded road winds to the hilltop, which commands a noble prospect. 

Our car continues along Commonwealth Avenue, which here crosses 
a high ridge. To the right the view embraces a pretty stone chapel, 
thrifty truck patches sloping away from our feet, a deep, verdant valley, 
with Strong's and Chandler's ponds nestling in its greenery. At the 
foot of the hill below us stands the Catholic Theological Seminary of 
St. John, a cluster of buildings imbedded in noble trees. The estate 
which it occupies was once an extensive country seat, known as the 
Stanwood place, comprising many acres of beautiful wooded land ; and 
much of its beauty in woodland has wisely been retained. On our left 
we pass Evergreen Cemetery, and beyond several handsome estates 
set well back from the street. At the foot of the hill, Lake Street, we 
reachthe boundary line of the city of Newton, and here is a little transfer 
station, where we change to a car of the Cominottwealth Avenue line, 
which traverses the beautiful extension of the famous Boston avenue, — 
this part called the Newton Boulevard, — leading to various sections of 
Newton and to the country town of Weston. 



1 6 NEWTONS AND WESTON 



THE NEWTONS AND WESTON 



Along Newton Boulevard to the Newtons and Weston. From the trans- 
fer station at Lake Street (reached by all electric cars from the Subway 
or Copley Square marked " Newton Boulevard ") our car first climbs the 
long slope of Waban Hill, the highest of Newton's many hills, — three 
hundred and twenty feet, — lined with modern houses whose chief 
recommendation is the charming outlook which they enjoy. On the 
summit, to our right, is the reservoir of the city of Newton. From this 
point the road stretches out in graceful, sweeping curves for about five 
miles, to the old stone bridge crossing the Cha7'les River to Weston, 
at nearly the westernmost apex of the town. The road is practically 
perfect, — a broad, smooth driveway on either side of a turfed and 
shaded park through which the double tracks of the trolley line run, per- 
mitting of high speed. Advantage has been taken of the naturally 
diversified configuration of the country to make the highway as pictur- 
esque as possible, and we smoothly climb lofty ridges, gayly swing down 
their farther slopes, wind around the shoulders of swelling knolls, and 
whirl through shady forest depths in as much comfort and with nearly 
as much speed as the occupants of the many automobiles which find 
this their most delightful trip out of Boston. 

We pass between the villages of Newton, Newtonville, and West 
Newton on our right ; Newton Center, Newton Highlands, and Waban 
on our left, and through one edge of Auburndale, which here skirts the 
river. Our terminus is the favorite pleasure ground called Norumbega 
Park, where the trolley company has provided on the shore of the 
stream a variety of attractions for many tastes, — an open-air theater, 
an extensive menagerie, a cafe, and a large boathouse, where canoes 
and rowboats may be hired. A launch plies the river between the park 
and Waltham, making hourly trips daily, afternoon and evening. 

Canoeing is the all-engrossing sport on this part of the river, and just 
around the bend to our left is the Riverside Recreation Ground. We 
cannot see it, for a high wooded promontory shuts off our view; but 
we may take a canoe and paddle up through the stone arch of the 
Weston Bridge, and in a few minutes we shall be in the thick of the 
fleet at Riverside, where on a pleasant afternoon or evening the water 
is often so densely covered that one might almost cross the stream by 
stepping from one canoe to another. Frequently during the summer the 
fleet parades, decorated with lanterns, bunting, and flowers, and various 
water fetes are held at odd times. The grounds and boathouses are 
extensive and well equipped ; and near by are the houses of the Newton 
Boat Club, the Boston Canoe Club, and the Boston Athletic Association, 



NEWTONS AND WESTON 117 

whose large membership helps to swell the crowds upon the river oi\ 
these occasions. 

As we stand at the ireston Ih-idge, looking west, the noble mass of 
Doublet Hill, with its twin summits respectively three hundred and forty 
and three hundred and sixty feet high, rises directly before us. On the 
hither slope, during 1902-1903, the forces of the Metropolitan Water 
Board have been busily at work, constructing an equalizing reservoir and 
the channel leading to it, and laying the great sixty-inch mains down 
from the reservoir to and across the river. A thirteen-mile aqueduct, 
much of it tunneled through the rock, brings the water from the Sud- 
bury dam in Southboro, through Framingham, Wayland, and Weston 
to this new reservoir. The huge mains constructed during the summer 
of 1902 along the Newton Boulevard will convey the additional supply 
to the' Chestnut Hill basins. 

From its summit Doublet Hill presents a fine view of the surrounding 
country, and its ascent is easy, either by a path through the wood or 
via South Avenue (which forms the western continuation of Common- 
wealth Avenue through Weston and Wayland) and Newton Street, which 
branches off a little to the right and leads to Weston village and the sta- 
tion of the Boston & Maine Railroad. If we take the latter course we 
shall pass the residences of many professional and business men, who 
find Weston a quiet and healthful home. Thus far the trolley road has 
not invaded the old town ; but the selectmen have granted a franchise 
lately to a company which proposes to build from Waltham, and very 
soon the ubiquitous electric cars will be whizzing and clanging through 
the shady streets, so long sacred to private vehicles. 

To the left of South Avenue, East Newton Street pursues a winding 
course to the river at Newton Lower Falls, a factory village, where one 
may take a train for Boston if he so desires. On the way one passes 
"Kewaydin," the extensive estate of Francis Blake (inventor of the 
Blake telephone transmitter), a castellated structure standing on a high, 
stone-walled bank. 

But probably the most generally interesting spot to be reached by a 
short walk from Weston Bridge is the famous Norumbega Tower, built 
by the late Professor Eben N. Horsford to commemorate the site of 
the Norsemen's fort founded by Leif Ericson about the year 1000, as 
Professor Horsford held. He elaborately carried out his identification of 
Watertown with the Vinland of the Northmen, and traced their wharves, 
canals, docks, and walls along the river to this point, the site of their 
stronghold, where may still be seen — at least the professor saw them — 
the remains of the moat and dam which the Northmen constructed. 
On this walk a short distance up South Avenue we take the first turn 



ii8 NORTHERN NKWTONS 

to the right, River Street, and follow that street along the riverside for 
about half a mile, to the mouth of Stony Brook, which divides \Yeston 
from ^Yaltham. The tower is a structure of field stone, with an inside 
staircase giving access to a lookout at the top, and it bears a tablet 
upon which is inscribed a detailed description of the Norsemen's works 
according to Professor Horsford's theory. 

Here the wateis of Stony Brook are collected by a dam across the 
mouth of the narrow gorge, forming one of the reservoirs of the city of 
Cambridge. Beyond it, the towering bulk of Prospect Hill, in Waltham, 
cuts off further view in this direction. We might reach Prospect Hill 
by a walk of about three miles, but it would be better to return to 
Norumbega Park and Boston. 

The Northern Newtons. By way of varying our route and seeing some- 
thing of the northern Newtons, we will take a red car, which turns off 
the boulevard at Washington Street and follows that chief thoroughfare 
of this section down the steep incline through West Newton, a conven- 
ient and — away from the railroad — a pretty residential section. This 
is also the civic center of Newton, the City Hall standing near the New 
York Central Railroad station. We pass it soon after reaching the foot 
of the hill, Washington Street swinging around to the right and hence- 
for%vard following the steam railroad tracks. These were depressed a few 
years ago, at great expense, so as entirely to eliminate grade crossings — 
of which there were many — throughout the city. This street is the chief 
business avenue all along through Newtonville to Newton, — anciently 
Newton Comer, — where our line ends and we may transfer to cars for 
other villages or for Boston, via Brighton and Commonwealth Avenue. 

Taking one of the latter, a ride of less than five minutes through 
Tremont Street brings us to Waverley Avenue, where we alight if we 
wish to see the Eliot Monument, commemorating the first preaching to 
the Indians by John Eliot, " the apostle." It is rather a stiff climb up 
Waverley Avenue to Kenrick Street (on the left), and a few minutes' 
walk along Kenrick Street to a lane on the right, which leads a few 
steps down to the unique monument, — a handsome balustraded ter- 
race, on the face of which are set tablets bearing the names of Eliot 
and his associates, and this inscription : 

Here at Nonantum, Oct. 28, 1646, in Waban's wigwam 

near this spot, John Eliot began to preach the gospel to 

the Indians. Here he founded the first Christian 

community of Indians within the English colonies. 

The view from the top of the terrace is very fine. It embraces 
much of the ground which we traversed on our way out from Boston, 



N E W I'O N A N 1 ) \\' ELI Ai S I Ai V 119 

including the wooded slope of Waban Hill just opposite, Strong's and 
Chandler's ponds in the valley to our left, and St. John's Catholic 
Seminary in its grove close beside the Boulevard. 

We may, if we wish, cross over Waban Hill via Waverley and Grant 
avenues, returning to Lake Street transfer station, and choose one of 
two or three pleasant routes back to the city. The cars via Coolidge's 
Corner and the Beacon Street boulevard will show us all the latest tri- 
umphs of the builder's art in blocks and apartment houses ; those via 
Commonwealth Avenue will take us swiftly over a magnificent ridge, — 
the northwestern end of Corey Hill, — from the top of which a sweep- 
ing view is had of Boston, Cambridge, and many towns beyond. The 
road is winding and runs up hill and down dale, like its Newton pro- 
longation ; and since it is not much built up as yet, and there are few 
intersecting streets, our speed is but little less than that of the automo- 
biles which make this a favorite course. Either car we may take will 
soon bring us back to Copley Square or the Subway. 

Newton was originally part of Cambridge, but in 1691 was set off as Newton 
by the General Court, its previous designation having been Little Cambridge. Its 
Indian name of Nonantum is perpetuated in one of the least attractive of its 
many villages, — a manufacturing hamlet on the north side, separated from 
Watertown only by the river. The area within the city limits is nearly tliirteen 
thousand acres, and its contour is very diversified, a number of fine hills rising 
to heights of from two hundred to three hundred and twenty feet. The Charles 
River forms the meandering boundary line, separating Newton from Watertown, 
Waltham, Weston, Wellesley, and Needham, successively. The main line and 
also the Newton Circuit branch of the New York Central Railroad traverse the 
city and serve the various sections with a dozen stations. A number of electric 
lines, radiating mostly from the business center, — anciently Newton Corner, now- 
plain Newton, — thread all sections. 

NEWTON AND WELLESLEY 

The many trolley lines radiating from Boston to all its suburbs make 
it easy to reach widely separated places of interest in a single afternoon, 
or at most in a day. In such a trip could be included the southern 
Newtons, Wellesley, Natick, Needham, W^altham, and W^atertown. 
The territory embraced in these places is very extensive ; but if, 
instead of describing the wide arc of a circle including them, one 
traverses several chords of that arc, the various points are easily and 
rapidly covered. 

Essaying first the southernmost of these chords, we may take a lioston 
& Worcester car in the Subway, thence ride out through Brookline 
and Newton via Boylston Street and its continuations in W^ellesley, 



I20 NEWTON AND WELLESLEY 

almost in a bee line to Natick ; or we may take a blue car marked 
" Natick " from the Subway, passing through Commonwealth Avenue 
and the Newton Boulevard to Washington Street, Newton ; thence 
to the left through Auburndale and the " Lower Falls " to the same 
destination. 

If we choose the route last mentioned, — by the blue car marked 
"Natick," — our course from the intersection of the Boulevard and 
Washington Street, in Newton, is up quite a steep rise, past the 
Woodland Park Hotel on the right, — a roomy, wooden building, in 
wide-spreading, shaded grounds. At the next street opening above 
we get a glimpse of the large building of the Lasell Seminary, a noted 
school for girls ; and a little farther on we cross the track of the 
Newton Circuit steam line, the Woodland station being close at our 
right. We pass attractive houses by the way, nearly all surrounded 
by generous grounds and several shaded by natural forest trees. As 
we cross Beacon Street we pass the Newton Hospital^ an excellent 
example of the cottage type of such institutions, standing in large and 
well-kept grounds. 

Our course continues in the same general direction, southwest, to 
Newton Lower Falls, a small, conventional factory village, where the 
water power of the Charles River has been utilized to propel woolen 
mills and one or two paper mills since about 1790. An ancient burying 
ground here contains the graves of Revolutionary soldiers. 

At this point we cross the river and enter the town of Wellesley. For 
the rest of our way the trolley track parallels the main line of the New 
York Central Railroad. That part of Wellesley through which we first 
pass is locally known as '^The Fanns,'" though the village and railroad 
station are some distance to our right. Wellesley is by nature one of 
the most picturesque towns in eastern Massachusetts, and its natural 
beauties have been enhanced by the art of the landscape architect. 

As we continue along Washington Street, to our left rises Maiigus 
Hill, three hundred feet high, on top of which is the town reservoir. 
About a mile from the town line we pass the neat stone Wellesley Hills 
station of the steam railroad, which just above has made its way through 
a deep rock cutting in the high ledge. Beyond is an attractive stone 
church (Unitarian), and on the left the Wellesley High and Dana Hall 
schools. Nearly a mile farther, in a picturesque inclosure of ten acres, 
shaded by fine trees and bordered on its hither side by a gurgling brook 
overhung with water willows, stands the Wellesley Town Hall and Public 
Library building, a gift to the town by the late II. Hollis Hunnewell, 
all complete, in 18S1, when the town was set off from Needham and 
incorporated (its name being taken from Mr. Hunnewell's notable estate, 



WELLEST.EY 121 

which in turn was named from Mrs llunnewell's maternal grandfather, 
Samuel Welles, who about 1750 owned the place). The Town Hall is 
of stone, in the style of a French chateau, with porch facing the square, 
surmounted by a clock. The library is a distinct part of the building, 
with a separate entrance. 

A short distance beyond we come to Wellcsley Square, wliere is the 
Needham trolley line. Here carriages may be taken for a drive to 
the Hunnewell estate, which is generously open to the public. An 
hour may profitably be given to visiting it. The grounds embrace five 
hundred acres, of which sixty acres nearest the house have a frontage 
on the beautiful Lake IVabatt, named for the Indian chief who was 
Eliot's first convert. Two long avenues of fine trees extend from the 
public way to the house, on one side of which is a vast lawn, on the 
other a French parterre, or architectural garden. Broad flights of stairs 
lead down therefrom to the parapet wall along the lake front, through 
successive terraces with evergreens on either side, trimmed into various 
fanciful forms. Along the lake shore is an Itahan garden, with prim 
array of formal clipped trees. Great hedges of hemlock and arbor 
vitas, fine vistas down avenues of purple beeches and white pines, 
extensive conservatories, and a graceful azalea tent, all add to the 
charm of the place. 

Near by is the Robert G. Shaw estate, a picturesque mansion house 
set among fine trees and surrounded by beautiful lawns. Not far away 
— just where the Charles River in one of its most sinuous bends forms 
the boundary line between Wellesley and Dover^ — is the Cheney place, 
country seat of Mrs. B. P. Cheney, Midow of a pioneer in the express 
business of America and in transcontinental railroads, an estate of two 
hundred acres. The views up and down the river here enhance the 
natural beauties of the land, which is highly diversified. The estate is 
laid out in a mingling of lawns, flower gardens, woods, groves, meadows, 
and fields. The five great elms which surround the house, tradition 
says, were brought from Nonantum, now Newton, and planted here by 
one of the friendly Indian tribe whom Eliot taught. The lawn of six- 
teen acres, inclosed by fine hedges, is one of the noteworthy features. 

Still farther south — indeed almost at the southern boundary of the 
town, where Ridge Hill, two hundred feet high, slopes to the placid 
waters of Sabrina Pond — is the famous Ridge Hill farm, of eight hun- 
dred and seventy acres. This attained most of its fame during the life- 
time of a former owner, William Emerson Baker, who made a fortune in 
sewing machines, and who delighted in giving great fetes here on occa- 
sion, providing for the amusement and mystification of his guests vari- 
ous surprises, drolJ and bewildering, sumptuous feasts, and odd sports. 



122 WELLESLEV COLLEGE 

But Wellesley's chief fame lies in Wellesley College, for women, which 
crowns the rounded hilltops on the north side of IVabaft Lake, toward 
which its four hundred and fifty acres of grounds gently slope. On the 
lake are the college boathouses, whence on " Float Day " go forth the 
class crews of young women to show off their prowess as oarswomen 
before the admiring gaze of relatives and friends ashore. The college 
is at the left of Central Street, through which our car continues on its 
way to Natick. A short distance beyond the square, as we cross Blos- 
som Street, we catch the first glimpse of the buildings and pass the East 
Lodge, one of the entrances to the grounds. A little beyond, the white 
dome and low, square building of the new observatory ^ — gift of Helen 
Miller Gould — cap a gentle hillock. Across the valley, on the crest of 
a fine ridge, stands College Hall, the main building, designed by Ham- 
matt Billings. Its ground plan is a double Latin cross, and its fa9ades 
are broken by bays, pavilions, and porches, topped by towers and spires. 
Within, the great central hall is open to the glass roof, seventy feet 
above. In this building are the college ofiices, the library, the chapel, 
the dining room, class and lecture rooms, and laboratories ; and in the 
upper stories, dormitories. 

Other buildings are the Stone Hall, gift of Mrs. Valeria Stone of 
Maiden, devoted to botanical work and dormitories, on another knoll 
overlooking the lake ; the Farnsworth School of Art, gift of Isaac I). 
Farnsworth, covering a hillock opposite College Hall; the Music Hall, 
the Gymnasium, the " Barn," and several cottages, homes of professors 
and instructors, in which also a few of the students are sheltered. 

Wellesley College was founded by the Hon. Henry F. Durant, formerly a 
conspicuous member of the Massachusetts bar, who died in Wellesley in 1881, 
aged fifty-nine. The greater part of his fortune was devoted to its establishment 
as a "non-sectarian institution for the training of Christian teachers, wives, and 
mothers." In this work he had the ardent cooperation of his wife, Mrs. Pauline 
Adeline (Fowle) Durant, who continued, after his death, to carry on the work as 
jointly they had planned it. The college was chartered in 1871, and formally 
opened in 1875. The scheme of its founder included these features: a faculty 
composed of women only, and a selected board of trustees comprised of both 
women and men, in whom the property of the college and its administration 
should be vested. 

Our car passes for nearly a mile along the northern side of the college 
estate, and at the farther end, where the road crosses between Lake 
Waban and Morse's Pond, stands another lodge at the western entrance 
of the inclosure. 



NATICK AND NKEDIIAM 123 



NATICK AND NEEDHAM 

We continue along Central Street and soon cross the line into the 
town of Natick. At our left rises Broad''s Hill, three hundred feet 
high ; at our right is the railroad, close alongside. We reach Natick 
station in fifteen minutes from Wellesley Square. The village is chiefly 
devoted to shoe manufacturing. Here is the Morse Institute Library, 
founded by the bequest of Mary Ann Morse, \\\\o died in 1S62. It 
was dedicated on Christmas day, 1873. Here also is the former 
homestead of Henry Wilson, the " Natick cobbler," as he was known for 
many years, who rose from the shoemaker's bench to the Senate of the 
United States and the Vice Presidency. It is a roomy, plain house of 
wood, painted white, standing back a little way from the street, under 
majestic elms. In the square near the station is the Soldiers^ Monument 
of the Civil War, flanked by brass siege guns. 

A branch trolley line runs hence to Needham, and if we desire to see 
more relics of the Indian apostle Eliot, we may take the car to South 
Natick, only a mile and a half southeast. On the way we pass over 
Carver Hill, two hundred and eighty feet high, whence a splendid view 
of the upper Charles River country is gained. In the South Natick 
village center is the Eliot Oak, under which, tradition says, Eliot 
preached his first sermon to his then newly established plantation of 
praying Indians, in 1650. Here he did much of his work of translating 
the Bible into the Indian language ; and here, in 1651, his converts built 
their first schoolhouse and church. Here, also, are to be seen the Eliot 
Monument, set up by the citizens in 1847, ^'^'^^ t^^ headstone from the 
grave of Daniel Takawambait, the first native minister, set into a granite 
block alongside the near-by sidewalk. The Eliot Church (Unitarian) 
is the fifth on the site of the rude structure reared by the red men. It 
is a typical New England meetinghouse of the early nineteenth century. 
It has no connection, except by name and location, with that founded by 
Eliot. 

South Natick is said to have been the original Oldtown of Harriet 
Beecher Stowe's " Oldtown Folks." 

From here to Needham, about five miles, the route lies mostly through 
a smiling farming country. We cross the Charles twice within a mile, 
and at Charles River Village, which we pass midway, its waters drive 
some paper mills. Needham is a quiet, dignified village of the conven- 
tional type, with a fine new high-school building and one or two other 
public edifices of brick. 

Changing here to a car for Newton, a ride of a mile north brings us 
to Highlandville, the north village of Needham, where a Carnegie public 



124 



ECHO BRIDGE 



library will soon be raised, and where are a couple of shoe factories. 
Two miles farther, in a generally northeasterly direction, the trolley 
line again crosses the Cha}-ies River, which, since we left it at South 
Natick, has made divagations into Dover and Dedham, skirted West 
Roxbury, and has assumed a path of comparative rectitude as the 
boundary line between Needham and Newton. 



THE SOUTHERN NEWTONS 

The railway enters the factory village of Newton Upper Falls, and 
traverses several rather depressing streets in the zigzags necessary for 
the car to mount the lofty brownstone cliff through which the river cut 
its way in ages past, and at the foot of which the village nestles. 

It will interest us more if we leave the car just before it crosses the 




Rustic Bridge and Cave, Hemlock Gorge 

bridge and take the path, plainly marked, to the left, into Hemlock Gorge, 
one of the smallest but most picturesque of the Metropolitan Park Reser- 
vations. Its area is only about twenty-four acres, but it includes a wild, 
rocky chasm, through which the swift, narrow river makes its way, dense 
thickets, and a grand growth of old hemlocks towering over all. This 
park was established in 1895. ^^ its upper end is the famous Echo 
Bridge, perhaps the most photographed bit of masonry in the neighbor- 
hood of Boston. It is a finely proportioned structure, reminding one 
much of the noted Cabin John Bridge near Washington, though on a 
smaller scale. It is the means by which the aqueduct from the Sudbury 
River crosses the Charles on its way to Boston. We may walk across it, 
enjoying the attractive outlook over the river, the falls, and the gorge. 



np:wt()n center T25 

and descend by the stone stairs to the bduk of the stream and try the 
remarkable echoes which give the bridge its name. From the northern 
end of the bridge a narrow plank walk between two houses brings us 
out to Chestnut Street, where we may again take the car, whicli, sweep- 
ing around the right, along the edge of the high cliff, gives a good view 
of the village at its foot. 

The most direct route from Boston to PZclio Brid,!.je and Hemlock (iorge is bj^ 
a Boston & Worcester trolley car, which passes over the Back Bay, through Brook- 
line and Newton, directly to the upper end of the (iorge, where the deep, black 
water sweeps through the narrow chasm close beside the track. Alighting here, 
one can explore the reservation in a short time. By this route, also, it is a delight- 
ful ride to Wellesley Hills (where the line crosses that of the Natick cars by which 
we came out), and so on to Framingham and Worcester. 

Continuing a mile or so farther, in the same general direction, we 
cross the tracks of the New York Central Railroad, and also those of 
the Boston & Worcester electric railway, at the neat and busy village 
of Newton Highlands. All about on the swelling slopes, in attractive 
modem houses, dwell many of Boston's business men. Swinging around 
to the left into Walnut Street, our course is over a wooded eminence 
thickly studded with residences. Descending its farther slope, we pass 
on our left the Gothic arched entrance of the Newton Cemetery, one of 
the most beautiful, by nature and art, of any around Boston. A little 
farther down we see, away to our left, the great power house of the street 
railway system. 

At the Newton Boulevard, where is a commodious waiting room, one 
may transfer to cars for Boston or to other parts of Newton. We might 
take a side trip hence to Newton Center via Homer Street, but the route 
is not particularly attractive ; a better way to that pretty village is 
reached by taking a Boulevard car from Boston, and changing at Centre 
Street. This route passes the old burying ground of the town, where 
lie the first settlers, a great granite monument of modern date bearing 
their names. Of a later period are the graves of heroes of the French 
and Indian and Revolutionary wars, — Major General William Hull, 
Brigadier General Michael Jackson and sons, officers in the Revolu- 
tion, the son and namesake of the apostle Fallot, and others noted 
in the early annals of the town. The old first parish church formerly 
fronted this ground, and its first pastor was buried here in 1668. At 
Newton Center are many beautiful residences, and on Institution Hill 
stand the buildings of the Newton Theological Institution, founded by 
the Baptists in 1826, as a training school for the ministry. Its grounds 
are extensive, and the view in all directions is inspiring. Within the past 



126 NEWTONVILLE 

few years, under the presidency of the Rev. Nathan E. Wood, D.D., 
much money has been added to the funds of the school, a new Hbrary, 
chapel, and dormitories have been built, and the whole hilltop has been 
laid out in most attractive landscape style. At the foot of the hill lies 
Crystal Lake, as the former Wiswall's Pond is known. It was named 
from old Elder Wiswall, in whose homestead it was included. A splen- 
did road around its shores is one of the attractions of " the Center." 
The stone Baptist Church, of pure Gothic architecture, is one of the 
finest in Boston suburbs. 

But our car is bound north, to Newtonville, and immediately after 
crossing the Boulevard we pass a forest-covered hill on the left, while 
to our right is a deep, shady valley, through which brawls a swift brook 
down rocky ridges. It is a charming section, and some of the prettiest 
homes of the city are along this way. One famous estate which we 
soon go by is Brooklawn, once the home of General Hull, of Revolu- 
tionary fame; since 1854 that of ex-Governor William Claflin, who has 
dispensed hospitality to many distinguished guests here. Just beyond, 
on the left, is the stately High School ; on the other side, the Claflin 
School ; and again on the left, the attractive house and grounds of the 
Newton Club. A little farther on we come to the business center of 
Newtonville, where we cross the New York Central tracks and Wash- 
ington Street. Here change may be made for Newton proper and most 
of the other villages. Soon we turn into Watertown Street and pass 
through the village of Nonantum, where on the left are the Nonantum 
worsted mills ; also a tiny pond, bearing the lofty title of Silver Lake. 

In a few minutes, turning sharply to the right, we are in Galen 
Street, in the small corner of Watertown lying south of the Charles, 
leading to the old bridge, a few rods long, by which we are to cross 
into Watertown Square. 

As we cross the bridge we observe granite tablets on either side. 
These were erected by the late Professor Eben N. Horsford, one of them 
to mark his Norsemen sites, — that on the left, w^hich is inscribed "Out- 
look upon the stone dam and stone-walled docks and wharves of Norum- 
bega, the seaport of the Northmen in Vineland." The other has this 
inscription : " The old bridge by the mill crossed Charles River near this 
spot as early as 1641." 

WALTHAM 

It is but a few steps to Watertown Square, where cars from Boston 
and Cambridge arrive by several routes, and where we change to a car 
for Waltham. Our course all the way is along old Main Street, to the 
foot of Prospect Hill, at the terminus of the route. Here we alight 



WALTIIAM 127 

and, following the plain directions on guideboards, climb, first by the 
street crossing the Central Massachusetts Division of the Boston "& 
Maine Railroad, and aftei-ward by a winding path through the natural 
woodland park which the city of Waltham has made of the upper part 
of the hill, to its summit. P'rom the outlook, four hundred and eighty- 
two feet above sea level, — the highest eminence in the Metropolitan dis- 
trict except the Great Blue Hill in Milton, — we may see to the north, on 
a clear day, as far as Kearsarge (seventy-five miles) and several other 
mountains of southern New Hampshire ; as well as Wachusett, Watatic, 
and Asnybumskit in central Massachusetts. The view embraces all the 
towns within a radius of twenty miles or more. In taking this noble 
hill and laying it out as a reservation, the city has wisely refrained 
from " fixing it up " or making it a " parky " affair. Its wildness and 
naturalness are its chief charms. 

Returning to Main Street, we will take a car for about a mile east, 
passing along the pleasant, shaded thoroughfare, to the Com>non, on 
which stands the Soldiers' Monument, and near which is the station of 
the Fitchburg Division, Boston & Maine Railroad. A branch of the 
trolley company's lines to Newton, by the Moody Street bridge, crosses 
the Charles River just south of the Common. On our way down from 
Prospect Hill, three or four blocks before reaching the Common, we 
pass on the left a great elm on the comer of Upper Main Street and 
Grant Avenue, which bears a tablet stating that General Burgoyne's 
army halted under its branches when on the march from Saratoga to 
Cambridge in 1777. 

That was when Burgoyne and his men, taken prisoners at Saratoga, 
were being escorted by their Continental captors to imprisonment on 
Prospect Hill, Somendlle, then a part of Charlestown. One division 
of the prisoners came this way, through Lexington ; the other, via 
"Weston and Newton. 

The great works of the American Waltham Watch Company, on the 
south side of the river, for Waltham includes in its limits quite a slice 
of trans-Charles territory, attract many visitors. These are the most 
extensive watch-making factories in the world, and the buildings are 
not only immense but are ornamental in design and surrounded by 
handsome grounds adorned with flower beds and shrubbery'. 

Waltham is famous also as having been the birthplace and lifelong home of 
Nathaniel Prentiss Banks, " the bobbin boy " as he was called in the days of his 
early political successes, who became, successively and rapidly, inspector in tlie 
Boston Custom House, member of the legislature, member of constitutional con- 
vention, congressman and speaker of the House (after a contest lasting two 
months and requiring one hundred and thirty-two ballots to decide it), all 



128 WATERTOWN 

before he was forty; later, governor of the state, major general of volunteers in 
the Civil War, congressman again, and United States Marshal. 

On lower Main Street, near the Watertown line, we pass on the left 
the famous old Governor Gore house, built by Christopher Gore, friend 
of Washington, governor and senator of Massachusetts, and donor of 
the Harvard College Library, named for him Gore Hall. It is a sightly 
dwelling, well placed on a gentle slope overlooking the street and shaded 
by majestic elms. It is of brick, and in its early days was perhaps the 
finest of suburban residences. It is still preserved in its original char- 
acter by the family of the late Theophilus W. Walker, who for many 
years resided here. 

WATERTOWN 

We cross the boundary of Watertown and soon are at the village 
green, to the left, where the Soldiers' Monument stands, and there is 
a roomy playground for the children. Just beyond, the Public Library, 
a brick building with pillars in front, is perhaps the most noteworthy 
piece of modern architecture in the place. 

At the square in Watertown Center, the choice of three routes 
back into Boston is open to us : via North Beacon Street, along the 
river into Brighton and Allston ; via Arsenal Street and Western 
Avenue into Central Square, Cambridge, and across the Harvard 
Bridge, by which way the Charles is crossed three times ; and via 
Mount Auburn Street and Harvard Square, Cambridge. The first 
route has little to recommend it save rather pretty river views. 

The second is the proper way if one wishes to visit the United States 
Arsenal, a collection of large buildings of brick, with slate roofs, inclosed 
in one hundred acres of grounds, lying between Arsenal Street and the 
river, with a wharf and landing just below the North Beacon Street 
drawbridge. Here is a complete equipment of machinery, heavy and 
fine, for the manufacture of artillery, projectiles, and gun carriages. 
Permission to enter and view the W'Orks is easily obtained from the 
commandant's oiiice. Close at hand also are the yards of the Water- 
town Cattle Market, at the station on the steam railroad known as 
Union Market. 

But the route into Boston which contains most of historic interest, 
as well as attractiveness of surroundings, is that by Mount Auburn 
Street, which diverges from the square to the left of the other tw^o. 
Since w^e have to change cars here, it will pay us to walk a few rods 
to Marshall Street, turning up to the left to read the tablet marking 
the site of the Marshall Fowle House, in which General Joseph Warren 



WATERTOWN 129 

spent the night before the battle of Bunker Hill. James Warren, his 
successor as president of the Provincial Congress, afterward occupied 
this Fowle house, and here his wife entertained Mrs. Washington in 
1775, when on her way from Mount Vernon to Cambridge in her own 
coach and four, with negro postilions in liveries of scarlet and white, 
a guard of honor, and a military escort. There was some pomp and 
gorgeousness even in those simple and primitive republican days. 

Next beyond Marshall Street (left) is Common Street, one of the 
most interesting points in our jouniey, for here is the old burying 
ground and churchyard of the fourth meetinghouse of the First Parish. 
The building itself was demolished in 1S36, and its successor was placed 
nearer the business center of the town. In this old church, built in 
1755, were held the Boston town meetings during the Siege, and here 
— as a massive stone tablet against the fence informs — sat the Pro- 
vincial Congress from April 22 to July 19, 1775; here the "Great and 
General Court," or Assembly, was originated and held its sessions from 
July 29, 1775, to November 9, 1776, and from June 2 to 23, 1778. In 
March, 1776, this church was selected as the one in which to hold the 
observance of the Boston Massacre, when the oration was delivered by 
the Rev. Peter Thacher of Maiden, on " The Dangerous Tendencies of 
Standing Armies in Times of Peace." 

Nearly all the way to the Cambridge line we pass pleasant estates 
on either side; but our next point of historic interest is at the corner 
of Grove Street, on the right, where the old burying ground, dating 
from 1642 and originally adjoining the first meetinghouse of the 
settlement, lies directly on the highway, separated from it only by a 
low wall. In the grass-grown and vine-covered grounds are ancient 
gravestones of quaint design, the earliest date being 1674. 

Here stands a granite obelisk, presented to the town on the one 
hundredth anniversaiy of the contests at Lexington and Concord by 
the descendants of John Coolidge, the one Watertown man killed in 
the running fight with the British flank guard near Arlington Heights. 

Continuing toward Cambridge we come to Belmont Street on the 
left, from which, if we choose, we may walk through Coohdge Street 
to another of the Norse memorials marked by Professor Horsford as the 
amphitheater or assembly place of those earUest discoverers. It is a 
spacious, natural, semicircular depression in the earth, its sloping sides 
broken into six terraces or benches, thickly grass-grown. 

Returning to Mount Auburn Street we are soon by the Mount 
Auburn station, and here we may take a train for Boston over the 
Fitchburg Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad, or a trolley car 
for the city direct, via Harvard Square, Cambridge. 



130 MILTON 



MILTON AND THE BLUE HILLS 

The quickest way to reach Milton is by a train on the Mihon branch 
of the New York, New Haven & Hartford Raih-oad, leaving the South 
Station at twenty-three minutes past each hour and reaching Milton 
station in about twelve minutes. The pleasantest way is by trolley car 
(Ashmont and Milton) from the Subway via Mount Pleasant ; or by 
elevated train to Dudley Street terminal, thence by surface car to Grove 
Hall transfer station, and changing there to a Milton car via Washington 
Street, Dorchester, and Codman Hill. Taking this last-mentioned route 
we have a particularly fine view of the harbor and islands from the 
point near Melville Avenue, where the street passes over one shoulder 
of Mount Bowdoin. We also pass several of the pleasantest estates in 
Dorchester, and the old Second Parish Church (on the left at Norfolk 
and Centre streets), dating from 1807, a typical New England meeting- 
house of that period. Farther on, as our route continues over Codman 
Hill, past the old Codman mansion house, now a dairy farmhouse, we 
roll along under noble old trees and have a taste of real country air 
from the hillside, studded with buttercups in their season. 

At the village known as Milton Lower Mills, though the larger part 
of it is on the Boston side of the Neponset River, the Boston street-car 
system ends and other lines start out, — for Dedham via Hyde Park, 
and for Brockton via Randolph, connecting at both points with lines to 
other places. Whether we have come out by steam or electricity, we 
shall want to walk about a little here. The chief industry of the village 
is the manufacture of chocolate, and the great stone-trimmed brick build- 
ings of the Walter Baker Company cover a large space on both sides 
of the river and utilize its considerable water power. From the bridge 
one gets a view on the left of the slight falls ; and in a rock rising above 
the water is set a bolt bearing a tablet with an inscription recording 
that the tide of April 16, 1851, reached the top of the bolt. This was 
the famous high tide of the storm which destroyed the Minot's Ledge 
lighthouse, and was six feet eight and one-half inches above the average 
high w^ater, here about ten feet. 

Only a little way beyond the bridge, on the Milton side, — a short 
flight of steps up from the Milton steam railroad station brings us 
directly to it, — stands the "Suffolk Resolves" house, shaded by three 
venerable English elms, which has been called the "birthplace of Amer- 
ican liberty." It is a two-story yellow, double house, of which one half 
is now devoted to a watchmaker's shop. Beside the pillared portico a 
marble tablet bears an inscription in antique Roman characters, relating 
the history of the Suffolk Resolves, which, adopted in this mansion by 



MILTON HILL 131 

delegates from the Suffolk County towns September 9, 1774, "led the 
way to American Independence." 

At the time of tlie convention the house was the mansion of Daniel Vose, 
the great man of tlie section, owner of several of the industries of the town 
— his chocolate mills, founded in 1765, were the first in the colonies — and a 
zealous patriot. The convention was composed of delegates from the nineteen 
towns then comprised in Suffolk County, which also included all now embraced 
in Norfolk County. They had held their first session in the old Woodward 
Tavern at Dedham a day or two before. Paul Revere was the messenger who 
carried the Resolves to Philadelphia. 

Contmuing up the gentle slope of Adams Street w^e pass several old- 
time houses on either side of the road. One on the right, just where 
Canton and Randolph avenues branch off, w^as m early days the Rising 
Sun Tavern. Canton Avemie is the direct route by the Great Blue Hill 
to Canton, while Randolph Avemie cuts through the Blue Hills Reserva- 
tion farther south, and continues on to Randolph and Brockton. A 
line of trolley cars (of the Old Colony system) diverging to the right 
lower down the slope, at Central Avenue, skirts the base of the hill, 
passes through Milton Center, and comes out in Randolph Avenue 
before reaching the Reservation, affording an easy means of arriving at 
this great pleasure ground, — the largest of the Metropolitan system. 

But there are reasons for prolonging our walk a little farther up 
Milton Hill, on Adams Street. All along the way are fine old estates 
which have been handed down from generation to generation of fami- 
lies noted in local — and some in national — annals. On the left side 
a pleasantly situated villa is the home of Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney, 
though her early home, in which her first works were wTitten, was in 
Milton village. A few steps beyond, on the right, stands a house of 
modem exterior, well back from the street, in whose fabric is incor- 
porated the historic house of Governor Hutchinson, his country seat. 
To this house he withdrew at the time of the closing anti-tea meetings 
in the Old South Meetinghouse in Boston ; and it was from this 
house that he started on his final voyage to England in June, 1774, 
never, as it fell out, to return. Its situation is indeed a most pleasant 
one, as he described it to George III, and the view which it commands 
across the meadow at the foot of the hill is yet an exceptionally fine 
prospect. It is gratifying to observe that the great field in front, on 
the lower side of the street, has been taken for a public reservation, as 
Governor Hutchinson'' s Field, so that the lovely prospect is safe from the 
obstruction of buildings. 

Hutchinson's vast estate was confiscated in the Revolution and was 
subsequently sold. Since 1829 it has been in the Russell family. 



132 MILTON 

At the top of the hill the old Dr. Holbrook tnansion, built in 1801, 
is noted for having been the scene of a brilliant entertainment to 
Lafayette during his last visit to America, in 1824. Beyond are the 
extensive estates so long associated with the Forbes family, — John AL, 
the master spirit of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad for 
many years ; J. Malcolm, equally noted in connection with the American 
Bell Telephone Company ; Captain Robert B. and J. Murray Forbes ; 
also the fine country seat of the late Oliver W. Peabody of the Boston 
banking house of Kidder, Peabody & Co. ; and farther on the summer 
place of his partner, the late Henry P. Kidder. 

At the old " Algerine Corner" — now commonplace Union Square — 
a road on the right diverges to the town center. A^t Otis Street, a little 
beyond, was, in provincial times, the estate of the royal governor, Jonathan 
Belcher, bought by him about 1 728, and his country seat during his service 
of about eleven years. It was he who placed along the road to Boston 
the Belcher milestones, one of which is to be seen in the wall of the 
Peabody place, bearing the legend " 8 miles to B Town House. The 
Lower way. 1734." 

Adams Street continues through the square past East Milton, a half 
mile farther on, a bustling village, its trade having a granite foundation, 
— quite naturally, for it adjoins West Quincy, where are the quarries 
which give to Quincy the title of "the granite city." We might pro- 
long our walk to East Milton and there take a car to Quincy, only three 
and a half miles distant. It would be better, however, to look over 
the northern part of Milton and go to Quincy by another route. From 
Union Square, Cdntre Street runs " cross town " to Randolph Avenue, 
which we left at the beginning of our walk. By way of Centre Street 
a walk of some three quarters of a mile would bring us to the old 
Town Cemetery, where rest the forefathers of many present citizens, 
the oldest gravestone bearing date of 1687. The Ministerial Tomb is 
near the entrance, and has a quaint inscription setting forth that it is 
" to be, abide and remain forever" as such. The names of the first 
minister, Peter Thacher, who died in 1727, his wife Susanna, and 
several succeeding ministers and their families are inscribed on the 
upright slab. Near the middle of this burying ground is a monument 
which attracts the most attention. This is the granite bowlder over the 
grave of Wendell Phillips and his wife. Phillips died Februaiy 2, 1884, 
and his body was first placed in the Phillips family tomb in the Old 
Granary Burying Ground, Boston, but after the death of Mrs. Phillips, 
two years later, it was removed hither. The inscription on the bowlder 
was written by him and it attests the simplicity and the chivalry of 
the man : 



BLUE HILLS RESERVATION 



33 



Ann and Wendell I'liillips. 

Died April 24, 18S6- February 2, 18S4. 

Aged 73. Aged 73. 



Passing through the burymg ground we emerge near Randolph 
Avenue, where stands the famous old Milton Academy, founded m 
1 805-1 806, and a good type of the New England academy of that 
epoch modernized. A 
little farther on, at 
White St7'eet, we reach 
Milton Center, or Milton 
Churches, as this sec- 
tion is more generally 
known, the group of 
buildings set in the 
pleasant square and 
shaded by lofty elms. 
The twin churches, as 
the local title goes, are 
the Unitarian (succes- 
sor of the original First 
Parish Church) and the 
East Church (Evangeli- 
cal Congregational), 
founded in 1834, when 
the great schism in 
New England theology 
took place. Between 
them stands the Town 
House and at one side 
the high school. A fine 
Public Library of brick 
with granite trimmings is near completion close by. 

Here we may take the car which has come around through Central 
Avefiue and now makes in a southeasterly direction for Randolph Avenue. 
which it follows for nearly a mile before the edge of the Blue Hills Reserva- 
tion is reached. Through the Reservation it runs, for nearly two miles 
Crossing the range between Chickatawbut Hill on the left and Hancock 
Hill on the right, one has a fine view over much of the chain of emi- 
nences. Great Blue Hill, away beyond Hancock, with the weather 
observatory and kite-flying station on its summit, being in plain sight for 
a considerable distance. 




Observatory, Gre.\t Blue Hill 



134 MATTAPAN AND THE NEl'ONSET 

From near the " twin churches " Thacher Street runs northwesterly 
for about a mile (past the site of the house built in 1689 by the Rev. 
Peter Thacher, first minister of the town) to the Blue Hill Pai-kway of 
the Metropolitan system, which leads into the western (or Great Blue) 
section of the Reservation. Trolley tracks are laid through its center, 
and in due time cars will convey the pilgrim well up into this part of 
the range. The building of a new bridge over the Midland Division of 
the New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad on the Boston side 
of the Neponset River puts a terminus perforce to trolley trips from 
Boston in this direction. 

It is a pretty walk along the broad and shaded parkway to the river, 
which here is spanned by a new stone bridge, built by the Metropolitan 
Park Board. Crossing it we are in Mattapan, the most southwesterly 
village of the Dorchester District, Boston, whence we have a choice of 
ways for the return journey, — street cars via Blue Hill Avenue and 
Franklin Park, trains over the Milton branch from a station close by 
the river, or over the Midland Division, station half a mile north, at the 
crossing of Blue Hill Avenue. The Milton branch route takes us for 
two or three miles alongside, and twice across, the picturesque Neponset, 
whose shores are now protected by the Metropolitan Board, and amid 
whose wooded nooks one catches a glimpse of a rustic footbridge and 
the sheen of a little waterfall. 

QUINCY 

Quincy is quite easy of access either by train or trolley. By train 
from the South Station (Plymouth Division, New York, New Haven & 
Hartford Railroad) the distance is eight miles and the fare fifteen cents. 
By electric car from Washington and Franklin streets to Neponset 
Bridge, or by the Ashmont and Milton line to Field's Comer, there 
transferring to the Neponset car, — and from Neponset Bridge to 
Quincy, — the distance is about the same, and the fare is ten cents. 
By either way the route is similar, — out through South Boston and 
the bay side of the Dorchester District to the village of Neponset 
at the mouth of the river (after crossing which we are in the bounds 
of the city of Quincy), but a short distance from the station and village 
of Atlantic, after which follow Norfolk Downs, Wollaston, and Quincy 
Center, — all within three miles. The tracks of the steam and electric 
roads run parallel and close to each other most of the way. 

Arrived at Quincy, all the places of historic interest are within a short 
radius. Right at the square, where the trolley line connects with other 
lines for the Weymouths, Brockton, and elsew^here, and within a gunshot 



QUINCY 



135 



of the railroad station, stands the "Granite Temple," as the present 
P'irst Parish Church, built in 1828, is called, from a phrase in the will 
of John Adams, who, in leaving to the town certain granite quarries, 
enjoined upon his townsmen to build " a temple " to receive his remains. 
His injunction was well obeyed. The structure, with its front Doric 
pillars supporting a pediment and square tower with colonnaded belfiy 
crowned by a dome, is a good specimen of the architecture of the first 
half of the nineteenth century. Its interior is dignified. The mural 
monuments here commemorate the two Presidents of the Adams family 
and their wives, and the tablets 
are to the memory of John Wheel- 
wright, the first minister, banished 
for " heresy " with Coddington, 
Anne Hutchinson, and others, 
and to other later pastors. 

In the basement beneath the 
church are the tombs of the two 
Presidents and their wives in 
granite sarcophagi. Application 
to the sexton and the payment 
of a modest fee prescribed 1)\ 
the church enables the visitor to 
descend into the electrically 
lighted vault and, through a doonvay protected by a grille, to gaze upon 
the tombs. On either side of the doonvay are inscriptions on marble 
tablets. 

The body of the ancient black hearse in which the remains of the 
Presidents were conveyed is also preserved in this basement in a glass 
case. 

Across the way from the church is the granite City Hall, and close 
by is the old burying ground where are the graves of the early min- 
isters of the parish, among them John Hancock, father of the famous 
"signer" and governor; the tombs of Dr. Leonard Hoar, third presi- 
dent of Hansard College, and his wife and mother; of Heniy Adams, 
immigrant ancestor of the Adams family ; of John Quincy Adams, in 
which his body was placed before removal to the church opposite ; of 
the first of the Quincys — Edmond ; and of Josiah Quincy, Jr., who 
at thirty-one years of age died, in 1775, on the ship which was bringing 
him back from his mission to England in behalf of the patriots. 

Near by, on Washington Street, is the fine Crane Public Library, and 
not far away, on Hancock Street, the Adams Academy, founded by a gift 
to the town in 1822 by President John Adams, and opened in 1872 — a 




ROTHY Quincy 



136 



ADAMS FAMILY 



classical school of high order. On Adams Street, which diverges to the 
west and continues through to West Quincy and Milton, stands the 
famous Adams mansion, originally the country seat of Leonard Vassall, 
a West Indian planter and a royalist like all of his name. Sequestered 
in the Revolution, it became the home of President John Adams from 
1787 till his death. In it were celebrated his golden wedding and the 
weddings of his son. President John Quincy Adams, and of his grand- 
son, Charles Francis Adams, Sr., once minister to Great Britain. It is 
now occupied by the great-grandson, Brooks Adams, and much of the 
interior finish and furniture is retained. 

On Hancock Street, facing Bridge Street, is the old Quincy mansion 
house, containing some part of the original dwelling of Edmond 

Quincy, built about 1634, and dating 
itself from 1705. Here was bom 
Dorothy Quincy, the original of Dr. 
Holmes's poem, "Dorothy Q.," whose 
granddaughter was the poet's mother. 
Another Dorothy Quincy, descendant 
of the first, was the wife of John 
Hancock. 

From the square, in a southeastern 
direction, we walk or take a Brockton 
car past the old burial ground of Christ 
Church, Braintree (the present city of Quincy was part of Braintree from 
1640 to 1792), in whose grass-grown mounds repose many of the early 
settlers. 

At the comer of Ifidependettce Street and Franklin Avenue the car 
passes two time-stained houses standing close together, restored and 
maintained as sacred memorials, to which the attention of more visitors 
is turned than to any other buildings in Quincy. The older and smaller 
house is the birthplace of John Adams. The other and larger house, 
with the old well sweep in the back yard, is the birthplace of John Quincy 
Adams. It was presented by the present Hon. Charles Francis Adams 
to the Quincy Historical Society, which has restored it to its original 
condition and made it a museum of historic relics. 

Much of the early history of the Massachusetts Bay Colony is related 
to this old town, notably Mount Wollaston, the high ground at the next 
station on the way into Boston. It was the " Menymount " of Thomas 
Morton, whose revels with his crew of graceless roysterers and his may- 
pole, set up in 1627, caused his banishment by the stem Puritan elders. 
The zealous antiquarian might spend days in tracing out the historic 
sites and in viewing the historic mansions of Quincy. 




Birthplace of John Adams 



DEDHAM 137 



DEDHAM 



Dedham is one of the oldest of the suburban towns, and was at first 
one of the most extensive. Its territory, allotted by the General Court 
in 1635 to twenty-two proprietors, who had moved hither from Water- 
town and Roxbury a few months before, embraced nearly all of the pres- 
ent Norfolk County. In August they had signed a " town covenant " 
binding them to "walk in a peaceful conversation" and to establish "a 
loving and comfortable society." The name they proposed for their 
settlement was Contentment. The General Court, however, overruled 
their choice and gave the new parish the title of Dedham from the 
English town whence several of the settlers had come. It is a quiet, 
dignified old town, with majestic trees shading its streets, many old man- 
sions, and picturesque river views. The Charles River, with its " Great 
Bend," encircles the northern end of the town, and the Neponset River 
is on its eastern border. The two streams are connected by " Mother 
Brook," the oldest canal in the country, dug by the enterprising colo- 
nists in 1 639-1 640. Several lofty hills break the surface of the town, 
and there are beautiful drives and trolley rides in several directions — 
notably to Westwood (formerly West Dedhai , three miles from the 
center. The main street is High Street, running nearly east and west 
through the village and then turning off shaiply to the southwest on 
its way to Westwood and Medway. Along this street are scattered 
most of the historic monuments. 

We reach Dedham by train over the Providence Division, New 
York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (though we could go in an 
electric car from Forest Hills), and alight at the stone station, with its 
imposing clock tower, at the center of the village. One block away is 
the granite Memorial Hall, serving the double puipose of a town house 
and a monument to the soldiers of the town who served in the Civil 
War. On the comer of Church Street, next above, is the low-arched 
brick building of the Dedham Historical Society, with an interesting col- 
lection of antiquities and documents. On the right-hand side of High 
Street, a little farther on, is the old Dr. Nathaniel Ames house, the home 
of the famous almanac maker from 1772 to his death, fifty years later. 
Just beyond stood till 1897 the Fisher Ames house, the home of 
Nathaniel's distinguished brother. This is now removed to River 
Place, and with enlargements and improvements has become the home 
of Frederick J. Stimson, author and lawyer. 

On the next street at the right, Ames Street, is the site of the old Wood- 
ward Tavern, dating from 1658, where met the Suffolk Convention in 
1774, which at its adjourned meeting in the Vose mansion at Milton 



r3S 



COURT HOUSE AND FAIRBANKS HOUSE 



adopted the Suffolk Resolves. Just above Ames Street on High Street 
is the mansion house built in 1795 ^Y J^-^^g^ Samuel Haven, in front of 
which are several st?tely English elms brought from England in 1762, 
still vigorous and full of foliage. Opposite is the granite Court House, 
surmounted by a dome, for Dedham is the shire town of Norfolk County. 
Next beyond the Court House is the ancient Village Green, in the 
comer of which stands the locally famous "Pitt's Head," or Pillar of 
Liberty, a square granite pedestal about two feet high, which formerly 
was surmounted by a tall wooden column and a bust of William Pitt. 
It was erected July 22, 1767. A bronze tablet on its eastern face, 
placed in 1886, on the two hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the 
town, gives its history. 

At the upper end of the Green stands the Unitarian Church, built in 
1 763, the third in succession from the original parish meetinghouse 

built in 1638. Just across 
High Street is the First 
Congregational Church, also 
ancient and, like the other, 
in the conventional Wren 
style. Along both sides of 
the street for some distance 
are houses mostly dating 
from the late eighteenth and 
early nineteenth centuries, 
very comfortable looking, 
with their ample lawns 
shaded by great elms. 
Two objects of special historic interest are easily reached by a short 
walk from the center. Along Eastern Avenue, which runs south from 
the railroad station and curves around through rows of water willows to 
East Street, is the way to the Fairbanks house, one of the oldest houses 
in the country. It was built about 1650 by Jonathan Fairbanks, to 
whom the lands surrounding it were allotted in 1637. In 1896 it was 
purchased by John Crowley, a public-spirited citizen, for preservation by 
the Dedham Historical Society, from "Aunt Rebecca" Fairbanks, who 
still hves in it, though above ninety years old. Previous to that time, 
during the two hundred and forty-six years of its existence, it had always 
been owned by a Fairbanks. 

The other historic relic, only a short distance from the Fairbanks 
house, is the "Avery oak." It is a great tree, older than the town, with 
a circumference, five feet from the ground, of sixteen feet. Its owner 
at the time is said to have refused seventy dollars for it from the 




WINTHROP 139 

l)uilders of the Constitution, who desired it for timber for "Old Iron- 
sides." It is still sturdy and thrifty. It has been secured for preservation 
by the Dedhani Historical Society. 

WINTHROP AND REVERE 

Winthrop alone among the northern suburbs of Boston is without a 
trolley line, and that it has none is due to the excellent service afforded 
by the Winthrop circuit of the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad. 
The ferry house and station of this railroad are at Rowe's Wharf, 
directly opposite the elevated railway station of the same name. The 
ferryboats leave every iifteen minutes daily, connecting with trains at 
Jeffries Point, on the East Boston side of the harbor; and the fare to 
any of the nine stations in Winthrop is but five cents. The line makes 
a loop around the town, reaching every section of it, and the trains 
alternate in direction. 

Winthrop is an ancient settlement but a comparatively modern town. 
For nearly a century after the first settlement its territory belonged to 
Boston, but in 1739 it becarae a part of Chelsea. In 1846 it was joined 
to Revere (the Rumney Marsh of early days) to form the new town 
of North Chelsea. It became an independent town six years later, 
taking the name of Winthrop in commemoration of Deane Winthrop, 
sixth son of Governor John Winthrop, who lived here for many 
years in a house still preserved, and here died about 1703 or 1704, 
aged 81. The first name of the hamlet was Pullen Poynt, but the 
year 1753 saw the establishment of a codfishery station at the 
extreme eastern end, and the '• syndicate " which promoted that 
enteiprise rechristened the place Point Shirley, from the governor of 
the Province. The fishery " trust " proved a failure, but Point Shirley 
was found to be so pleasant that a number of Boston families built coun- 
try houses here, the Hancocks among the rest. A roomy brick house 
still standing at this point of the town, which retains the name of Point 
Shirley, is by some assumed to have been John Hancock's house, but 
this is doubtful. In later days the present Point Shirley became noted 
through " Taft's," a hostelry famous for its fish and game dinners, now 
only a memory. Until about 1876 Winthrop remained a slumbrous farm- 
ing town within five miles of the city across the harbor but known only 
to the few. Then it was rediscovered, and the building of the narrow- 
gauge railroad made it easy of access. With the advent of this railroad 
a beach settlement was laid out, streets with nautical names were cut 
through, and lots were sold off. A colony of summer cottages sprang 
up in a season or two, and " Ocean Spray " and " Cottage Hill " became 



140 



WINTHROP BEACH 




familiar names. In course of time substantial houses to a large extent 
replaced the shells first erected ; a beautiful, broad boulevard, with walks 
on each side, was built by the Metropolitan Parks Commission along 
the ocean front where had been a town way known as " The Crest " 
(destroyed by a gale in November, 1898) ; and the old farms of the 
inland part of the town became thickly covered with residences. 

The fine half-moon sweep of the Winthrop Beach, something more 
than a half mile in length, is crowned at either end by a high bluff: that 
to the seaward, the Great Head of old, now trivially named " Cottage 

Hill " ; and that at the north- 
eni end, Grover's Cliff, now 
occupied by Fort Heath, 
a strong work, mounting 
several twelve-inch rifled 
guns, which was rushed to 
completion during the Span- 
ish war. Inland a little 
way is Fort Banks, with its 
sixteen breech-loading mor- 
tars and an extensive group 
of buildings, sufficient for a 
large army post. 

On the eastern side of Crystal Bay, which almost isolates the beach 
section from the " old town," is the Winthrop Yacht Clubhouse. The 
railroad loop crosses this bay by a long bridge with a draw at the 
channel. One may spend an afternoon pleasantly by taking a train to 
Winthrop Center and walking over to the harbor side of the town. 
Along Pleasant and Sargent streets and Court Park Road is probably 
the most agreeable course, making the circuit of Court Park (so named 
in honor of Judges George B. Loring and John Lowell, who formerly 
owned the whole area now laid out in house lots), where are the 
Winthrop Golf Club's links, and continuing through Pleasant Street 
along the harbor front to the station just beyond Main Street, taking 
here a train to Winthrop Beach. From this point Cottage Hill may be 
climbed for the view of the town, the bay, and the harbor. 

A walk along Winthrop Beach naturally follows, with the surf pounding 
on the right, and off beyond it the outer island, Nahant, to the north, 
and the open sea in view, with a glimpse occasionally of a steamer 
coming in. Near the upper end of the beach we should turn off and 
pass through Neptune Avenue and Shirley Street (the latter the old 
county road), by the Ocean Spray station of the railroad, to the old Deane 
Winthrop house on the right, marked by a tablet. A few steps farther 



Winthrop Boulevard 



REVERE BEACH RESERVATION 141 

to the intersection of Revere Street, and we are at the entrance of 
Fort Banks, the saluting batteiy, the brick hospital, and the command- 
ant's headquarters. We may follow Revere Street up a moderate slope 
to Summit Avenue, and taking this street to the right we shall get 
other fine views, while about us is picturesque Winthrop Highlands, as 
this section of the town is called. It is but a few steps down the east- 
ern end of Summit Avenue and along Crest Avenue (to the left) to the 
Highlands station. Here we may take the next Boston-bound train 
back to Orient Heights (as soon as we cross Belle Isle inlet we are on 
Breed's Island, the newer part of East Boston), and at this station change 
to a train passing over the main line for Crescent Beach at the lower end 
of the famous Revere Beach. On the way we pass the station at Beach- 
mont at the foot of a fine hill thickly covered with houses, the other side 
of which we have seen from Summit Avenue, Winthrop Highlands. 

At Crescent Beach the railroad is but a few rods back from the great 
beach boulevard of the Metropolitan Parks System, which extends along 
the ocean front for two miles with its splendid roadway and broad 
promenades on either side. The Revere Beach Reservation embraces 
the whole length of the beach to the Point of Pines, at the mouth 
of Saugus River. Near the middle of its length is an ornate band 
stand, and near its northern end the great State Bath House (the rail- 
road has a station just at the rear of the Bath House), from which on 
Labor Day, 1902, 8721 persons went into the water, the total for the 
season being 113,783. The boys' bath room will accommodate five 
hundred boys at a time. All along the shore side of the boulevard are 
various amusement places, — the steeplechase, the roller coaster, elec- 
tric boats on a small lake, refreshment booths and restaurants, tintype 
galleries, and all the paraphernalia of a modern seaside resort for the 
people. Perfect order is preserved by the Metropolitan Park police. 
On a warm afternoon and evening the visitors are numbered by scores 
of thousands, and the driving along the superb roadway makes an 
interesting pageant. 

From the southern end of the Reservation the Revere Beach Parkway 
extends nearly five and a quarter miles west to the lower end of Med- 
ford, where it joins the Fellsway, leading north to the Middlesex Fells. 
The electric cars of the Boston & Northern system run through the 
turfed center of this parkway — till the Revere station of the Boston & 
Maine Railroad is reached, and there the Parkway crosses the tracks 
overhead. At the Revere station they take a more direct route via 
W^inthrop Avenue and Beach Street, through Revere Center to Fenno's 
Comer, whence they turn sharply off to the left into Broadway and so 
through Chelsea into Boston. 



142 CHELSEA 

Much of the history of Revere has been identical with that of Win- 
throp, as we have seen. Up to 1852, when the latter town set up for 
itself, they had been associated municipally from the veiy first. In 187 1 
the name of North Chelsea was changed to Revere. With the excep- 
tion of its beach section and the bold drumlin now covered by the semi- 
summer-resort settlement of Beachmont, it is a quiet town, still largely 
devoted to farming, with the scattered homes of old families. On the 
way inward through Broadway, before we cross Snake or Mill Creek, 
which lies partly in the Parkway, we may see off to the left the old 
Yeaman house, built about 1680, a typical farmhouse of the early days, 
with its gambrel roof and lean-to. 

CHELSEA 

When we cross Snake Creek we are in Chelsea, which in 1634 was 
made a part of Boston by one of those terse, phonetic orders of the 
General Court, so much more definite than the long-drawn "acts" of 
our modem legislatures, that " Wynetsemt shall belong to Boston." 

Chelsea has numerous attractive features. Within its limits is the 
fine curving eminence of Powderhorn Hill, which we reach on our right 
and may ascend by a direct avenue from Broadway. The spreading 
building on its summit is the Massachusetts Soldiers' Home, originally 
erected for a summer hotel. From the pleasant lawn and long shaded 
verandas of this institution, where the broken soldiers of the Civil 
War sit and smoke their pipes through the long summer afternoons, 
one may look far down the harbor and well-nigh all over the city 
below. From the top of the old reservoir near by the view takes in 
the Mystic marshes and the whole sweep of hills bounding the Boston 
Basin. 

To the northwest of Powderhorn, and lying mostly in Everett, is 
Mount Washington, reached by Washington Avenue, through which 
trolley cars run, and to which we may cross through Summit and Win- 
throp avenues at the west end of Powderhorn. Turning into Wash- 
ington Avenue to the right, a few steps bring us to Washington Park, 
maintained by the Chelsea Park Commission. Set into the park wall 
is a large flat stone bearing this legend : This stone, once a doorstep of 
the old Pratt tnansion visited by Washington during the siege of Boston, 
stands opposite the barrack-grounds of Colonel Gerrish^s regiment of 

1775-7^- 

Another landmark of earlier date is the Way-Ireland house, — in later 
years the Pratt family homestead, — in which Increase Mather was in 
hiding for a time before he sailed for England in April, 1688, as agent 



1 



\ 



SOMERVILLE, MEDFORl), AND MALDEN 143 

for the colonists, to intercede with the king against the oppressions of 
Andros. It stands near the foot of this hill, just off Washington Avenue, 
which winds to the right and continues to Woodlawn Cemetery. 

Returning by a Washington Avenue car down Broadway and, if we 
choose, into Boston through the Charlestown District, we shall cross 
the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine just beside the Chelsea 
station. Near by is Union Park, in which stands the Chelsea Soldiers' 
Monument. At Bellingham Square, where we turn into Broadway, we 
take a course directly southwest to the bridge over the Mystic into 
Charlestown. As we near the bridge we see on our right the extensive 
grounds occupied by the United States Naval Hospital and the Marine 
Hospital, the former for sick and disabled officers and men of the navy, 
the latter for invalids of the merchant marine. The grounds are sightly, 
sloping to the river and shaded by ancient trees. 

On the farther end of the tract, where the Island End River joins the 
Mystic River, is the site of Samuel Maverick's fortified house, built in 
1624-1625. Maverick described it as having "a Pillizado iiflankers and 
gunnes both below and above in them which awed the Indians," and no 
wonder. It was here that Maverick entertained Governor Winthrop 
and his associate leaders on their first coming in 1630. Maverick 
aftenvard removed to Noddle's Island, now East Boston. 

SOMERVILLE, MEDFORD, AND MALDEN 

It is a pleasant trip to Medford, by the way of Somerville, with much 
historic interest. Taking an elevated train to the Sullivan Square ter- 
minal, and there changing to a Highland Avenue car, a fifteen minutes' 
ride will bring us to Central Square, at the eastern end of Prospect 
Hill. This hill is historic as the site of the citadel, the most formidable 
works in the American lines during the Siege of Boston, and as the 
place where the Union flag with its thirteen stripes was first hoisted, 
January i, 1776. These facts are related upon a tablet which stands on 
the present top of the hill, with the exception of one small point fifteen 
feet or so lower now than at that time. On its long summit General 
Putnam made his headquarters after the battle of Bunker Hill, and 
here also during the winter of 1 777-1 778 were quartered the British 
troops captured at Saratoga with Burgoyne. The point left uncut is 
now reserved in a park, and an obsei-vatory is to be built on its summit. 

Central Hill beyond, over which our car soon passes, is also associated 
with the Revolution. Its summit is an open, parklike space, at the 
easterly end of which is observed a miniature redoubt with cannon 
mounted. This is intended to mark the site of French's Redoubt 



144 TUFTS COLLEGE 

thrown up after the battle of Bunker Hill, which became a part of the 
besieging lines of Boston. 

In this highland common are grouped a series of public buildings, — 
the City Hall, the Public Library, the High School, and the English 
High School. 

On Winter Hill, northward, stood another Continental fort, and the 
chief one, connected with the Central Hill battery and the citadel on 
Prospect Hill by a line of earthworks. Near the foot of Central Hill, 
in a well-preserved old house marked by a tablet, are seen the head- 
quarters of General Charles Lee during the Siege. Over on Spring 
Hill, to the west. Lord Percy's artillery for a time covered the retreat 
of his tired infantry on that memorable 19th of April. On Willow 
Avenue near Davis Square, West Somerville, a tablet records a sharp 
fight at this point, and marks graves of British soldiers here. 

At Davis Square we leave the car and walk through Elm Street, 
W'hich curves to the right, to the junction of College Avenue, Broadway, 
and Powderhouse Avenue. Here, in a little park, stands the picturesque 
as well as historic Old Powder House, a tower with conical top, thirty feet 
high and about twenty feet in diameter at the ground, with thick walls 
of brick, and barred doorway and window. 

It was first a mill, built about 1 703-1 704, and became a Province powder house 
in 1747. On September i, 1774, General Gage seized the 250 half-barrels of gun- 
powder stored within it and thereby provoked the great assembly of the following 
day on Cambridge Common. In 1775 it became the magazine of the American 
army besieging Boston. 

To the northwest from this park it is but a few minutes' walk through 
College Avenue to the pleasant grounds of Tufts College, which covers 
nearly all of College Hill and commands a wide and charming prospect 
of the surrounding country. Just beyond the railroad station (South- 
em Division, Boston & Maine) we enter Professors Row, which follows 
the curve of the hill to the left, and pass the houses of President 
Capen and others of the faculty ; also Metcalf Hall, a dormitory for 
women students. To the right, on the crest of the hill, reached by a 
broad walk under lofty elms, stand the chief buildings of the college : 
Ballon Hall, the oldest ; the noteworthy Goddard Chapel, of stone, with 
a hundred-foot campanile; the Barnum Museum of Natural Histojy, 
built and endowed by the famous showman and containing among 
other things the skeleton of the great elephant Jumbo ; the Goddard 
Gymnasiitm ; East and West Halls, dormitories ; the Library and the 
two Divinity School buildings. Miner Hall and Paige Hall. On the other 
side of College Avenue, near the entrance by which we came, are the 



WINCHESTER I45 

Commons building, the Chemical Building, and the Brotnjield- Pearson 
School ; these last two being part of the technical school plant. 

From the college grounds it is a pleasant walk to Main Street, Medford, 
through College Avenue and Stearns Street. On Main Street, between 
George and Royall Streets, we come upon a most interesting relic of 
Provincial days. This is the Royall mansion house, built by Colonel 
Isaac Royall in 1738. An earher house on its site, erected before 1690 
it is said, was utilized in its construction. A building at one side was 
originally the slave quarters, the only structure of its kind remaining in 
Massachusetts. In 1775 the mansion was the headquarters of Stark's 
division of the Continental army. It is now occupied by the Sarah 
Bradlee Fulton Chapter, D. A. R., and is open to visitors for a modest fee. 

Another relic of an earUer period cherished here is the Craddock 
house, said to date from 1634, and so entitled to the distinction of 
being the oldest existing house in the country. It stands some distance 
down the Mystic River side, on Riverside Avenue, toward East Medford. 
Opposite it, on the other side of the river, — the Somerville (Winter 
Hill) side, — lay Governor Winthrop's Ten Hills Farm. 

In Medford Square electric cars can be taken for Maiden, Melrose, 
and Everett in one direction, and for Winchester, Woburn, and Lowell 
in another. Forest Street is a Medford entrance to the Middlesex Fells. 

Across to Maiden is an agreeable ride. The route passes the Mid- 
dlesex Fells Parkway, a Maiden entrance to the southeasterly section 
of the Fells, the most romantic part of the Reservation. As it nears 
the finish the parkway widens into Fellsmere, a small park with pleas- 
ing landscape features. In Maiden Center is the PubUc Library and 
Art Gallery, noteworthy as one of the best examples of the work of 
the architect H. H. Richardson in public buildings. 

WINCHESTER 

Winchester, which touches the western side of the Fells, is one of the 
most picturesque towns of the metropolitan region. Its natural beauty 
in wooded hill and vale, river and lake (the Mystic ponds), is unusual, 
and this has been to a great extent worthily retained in the building up 
of the town. It is next to Brookline, perhaps, in richness of possessions 
and as a favored residential place for substantial business and profes- 
sional men of Boston. It has a few large country seats, some old-time 
family mansions, and a great variety of tasteful houses of modern build. 
It is connected with Medford and Arlington by electric lines, and so 
with Boston ; but the more direct connection is by railroad (Boston & 
Maine, North Station). 



46 PUBLIC PARKS 



III. PUBLIC PARKS 

BOSTON CITY SYSTEM 

Boston Common, 48 1 acres. Central District. Bounded by Tremont, 
Park, Beacon, Charles, and Boylston streets. 

Public Garden, 24^ acres. Edge of Back Bay District. Bounded by 
Charles, Beacon, Arlington, and Boylston streets. 

Commonwealth Avenue Parkway. Back Bay District, middle of Com- 
monwealth Avenue from Arlington Street to entrance of Back 
Bay Fens. 

Back Bay Fens, 115 acres. Back Bay District, from the Charles River 
to beginning of River\vay. Reached by any Beacon Street car, 
alighting at Charlesgate ; or from Massachusetts Avenue at Com- 
monwealth Avenue by a walk of three minutes. 

Riverway, 40 acres. Back Bay District and boundary between Boston 
and Brookline. Reached by Huntington Avenue car, alighting at 
Tremont entrance, near the Gardner Museum ; or by same car at 
Leverett Park ; or by Ipswich Street and Brookline Avenue car, 
alighting at Audubon Road. 

Leverett Park, 60 acres. Joins Riverway on the south. Boundary 
between Roxbury District and Brookline. Reached by Hunting- 
ton Avenue car or by any Brookline Village car (two minutes' 
walk from Village Square). 

Jamaicaway. Connects Leverett Park with Jamaica Park. Mostly in 
West Roxbury District. Walk of three quarters of a mile from 
Huntington Avenue car. 

Jamaica Park, 120 acres. Jamaica Plain, West Roxbury District. 
Jamaica Pond occupies most of its area. Reached by Jamaica 
Plain car from the Subway (and short walk), or by train on Provi- 
dence Division, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, to 
Jamaica Plain station, and thence by a walk of ten minutes via 
Green, Myrtle, and Pond streets. 

Arborway, S^y acres. Connecting Jamaica Park with the Arnold Arbore- 
tum, and the latter, in turn, with Franklin Park. 

Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Park, 223 acres. West Roxbury District, 
continuing the system southward from Jamaica Park. Fine trees 
and shrubs. Reached most conveniently by train on Providence 
Division, New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad, to Forest 
Hills station ; or by street car to Forest Hills, either via Jamaica 



PUBLIC PARKS 147 

Plain (from Subway), or via elevated train to Dudley Street terminal, 
and then by surface car via Washington Street to Forest Hills. 

West Roxbury Parkway, 150 acres. West Roxbury District, connect- 
ing the Arnold Arboretum with the Stony Brook Kesen^ation of 
the Metropolitan Parks System. 

Franklin Park, 527 acres. Between Roxbury, West Roxbury, and 
Dorchester districts. Reached by Cross-Town car to Grove Hall 
transfer station, and thence by Blue Hill Avenue car to main 
entrance opposite Columbia Road ; or by elevated train to Dudley 
Street terminal, thence by surface car to Grove Hall transfer sta- 
tion, and Blue Hill Avenue car, as above. From the entrance 
wagonettes take parties of visitors around an extensive tour of the 
park for twenty-fi\e cents each. 

Franklin Field, 77 acres. Dorchester District. Its nearest corner is 
separated from one corner of Franklin Park only by Blue Hill 
Avenue, cars traversing that avenue being the direct way to it. 
Chiefly used for baseball and other outdoor sports. 

Dorchester Park, 26 acres. Near Milton Lower Mills, Dorchester Dis- 
trict. A natural park, very rocky and thickly wooded. Directly 
reached by any Ashmont and Milton car. The pleasantest way is 
via Grove Hall transfer station, Washington Street, and Codman 
Hill, Dorchester. 

Dorchesterway, 6 acres. Dorchester District, connecting Franklin 
Park and the Strandway, via Columbia Road. 

Strandway, 260 acres. South Boston. Borders the shore of Old 
Harbor, extending to the Marine Park at City Point. 

Marine Park (including Castle Island), 288 acres. South Boston. Bath- 
ing beach with city bath house ; long pier extending out into the 
harbor, with drawbridge connecting it with Castle Island (here is 
Fort Independence, now disused) and a breakwater opposite, form- 
ing a pleasure bay for small boats. Reached by South Boston car 
from Washington Street or from Park Square. 

Wood Island Park, 211 acres. Harbor side of East Boston, toward 
Governor's Island. Public bathing houses, gymnasiums, and out- 
door sports of various kinds. Attractive landscape architecture. 
Reached by train on Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, every 
fifteen minutes, from Rowe's Wharf (elevated railway station 
opposite) to Wood Island station. 

Charlestown Heights, 10 acres. Charlestown District. Summit of 
Bunker Hill, overlooking the Mystic River. 

North End Beach and Copp's Hill Terraces, 7 acres. North End. 
Bathing beach and playground for children. Reached by Atlantic 



148 METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 

Avenue elevated train to Battery Street station, or by East Bos- 
ton or Chelsea Ferry surface car to Atlantic Avenue (short walk). 
Just above the terraces is the historic Copp's Hill Burying Ground. 

Charlesbank, 10 acres. West End. Lies along the Charles River from 
Craigie's Bridge to West Boston Bridge. Open-air gymnasium and 
playgrounds. Attractively laid out and affording fine views of the 
lower Charles. Reached most conveniently by Cambridge car from 
Park Square via Charles Street, or from Bowdoin Square. 

Rogers Park, 69 acres. Brighton District. Reached by Newton car 
via Allston and Brighton, alighting at Lake Street (short walk). 

Chestnut Hill Park, 42 acres. Brighton District. Surrounding the 
Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Beautiful grounds, trees, and shrubs ; 
fine driveway and footpath ; woods and rocks. Reached by New- 
ton Boulevard car to Lake Street transfer station ; also by Reservoir 
cars to end of route (short walk). 

Besides the city parks mentioned above there are many public pleas- 
ure grounds in various parts of the city which are not under the juris- 
diction of the Boston Park Commissioners but under that of the 
superintendent of public grounds. The Common and Public Garden, 
indeed, belong to his domain, but as an essential and initial part of the 
park system they are included in the above table. 

A number of playgrounds, provided with simple outdoor gymnastic 
apparatus and with ball grounds and tennis courts laid out, are provided 
in several sections of the municipality, and are fully improved during the 
open months. 

METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 

Nantasket Beach Reservation, 24.51 acres. Hull. Splendid bathing. 
Reached by Nantasket steamer from Rowe's Wharf (Atlantic 
Avenue elevated station opposite), or by train on New York, New 
Haven & Hartford Railroad to Old Colony House ; thence by 
Nantasket Branch (third-rail electric) to the beach. 

Quincy Shore, 37.97 acres. Quincy. Along the shore of Quincy Bay. 

Blue Hills Reservation, 4857.96 acres. Milton, Quincy, Braintree, 
Randolph, and Canton. Includes the higher portion of the Blue 
Hill range. Wild rocky heights ; widespreading views in all direc- 
tions. Reached by train on the Milton Branch, New York, New 
Haven & Hartford Railroad, to Milton ; then by trolley car for 
Brockton, via Randolph Avenue, to the edge of the Reservation. 

Neponset River Banks, 926.41 acres. Boston, Hyde Park, Dedham, 
Westwood, Milton, and Canton. 



METROPOLITAN SYSTEM 



i49 



Stony Brook Reservation, 463.72 acres. Boston and Hyde Park. 
Densely wooded hills ; Muddy Pond ; fine driveways. Reached by 
trolley car for Dedham from Forest Hills. 

Charles River Banks, 563.20 acres. Boston, Cambridge, Watertown, 
Waltham, Weston, Newton, and Wellesley. 

Beaver Brook and Waverley Oaks Reservation, 58.35 acres. Belmont 
and Waltham. Contains the famous old oak trees and a pictur- 
esque brook (subject of Lowell's " Beaver Brook "), with ponds and 
waterfall. Reached by Waverley car from Subway or by train on 
Boston & Maine Railroad (Fitchburg or Central Massachusetts divi- 
sions) to Waverley station (short walk). 

Hemlock Gorge Reservation, 23.10 acres. Newton and Needham. The 
Charles River cuts its 
way here through a 
narrow, deep gorge 
shaded wath fine old 
trees. Echo Bridge 
is across the river 
above the gorge, — a 
symmetrical piece of 
masonry, with a won 
derful echo beneath 
it. Reached by car 
via Newton, or by 
Boston & Worcester 

(electric) car via Boylston Street, Brookline ; also by train (Newton 
Circuit, New York Central) to Newton Upper Falls. 

Middlesex Fells, 1882.95 acres. Maiden, Melrose, Stoneham, Medford, 
and Winchester. Beautifully diversified scenery, — hills, ponds, 
brooks, ledges, and forest ; splendid walks and drives. Reached 
by elevated train to Sullivan Square terminal, thence by surface car 
to Maiden, or to Medford, or to Winchester via Medford, or to Mel- 
rose ; or by train on Boston & Maine Railroad (Western Division) to 
Wyoming Station. 

Mystic River Banks, 2S9.44 acres. Somerville, Medford, and Arlington 

Winthrop Shore Reservation, 16.73 acres. W^inthrop extends along 
the ocean front for about a mile. A broad boulevard with side- 
walks on both sides. Fine views of the ocean, Nahant, and the 
outer islands. Reached by train every fifteen minutes on Win- 
throp Branch, Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, from 
Rowe's Wharf (elevated railway station opposite) to Winthrop 
Beach, Shirley, or Ocean Spray stations. 




Nantasket Beach 



50 



M E T 1^L O P C ) J . rr A X S \' S T E .M 



Revere Beach Reservation, 67.44 acres. Revere. A broad boulevard 
with walks extending along the ocean for about two miles. State 
bath house, band stand, refreshment houses, and a great variety of 
amusements. The beach superb and the bathing excellent. Reached 
by train every fifteen minutes on the main line of the Boston, Revere 
Beach & Lynn Railroad from Rowe's Wharf, or by trolley car from 
the Subway (Scollay Square, Adams Square, or Haymarket Square 

stations), via Charlestown, 
Chelsea, and Revere. 
King's Beach and Lynn Shore 
Reservation, 10.81 acres. 
Swampscott and Lynn. 
Along the ocean front of the 
northern part of Lynn and 
the southern shore of 
Swampscott. Reached by 
trains to Lynn and trolley 
cars for Swampscott through 
Ocean Street. 
Lynn Woods, Free Public Forest, 
2000 acres. Comprising 
woodland of great natural 
beauty, maintained by the 
Lynn Park Commission. 
The second largest munici- 
pal pleasure ground in the 
United States. Three main 
entrances: one to the Great 
Woods Road ; second, to 
Dungeon Rock, on Wal- 
nut Street — both these 
reached by electric cars 
properly marked, from the square in Lynn at the central railroad 
station ; the third or western entrance, from the old Reading road 
to Walden Pond — most convenient for carriages and bicycles from 
Boston and suburbs. 
Hart's Hill, 23.9 acres. Wakefield. Reached by trains on Boston & 
Maine Railroad (Western Division) to Wakefield, or by trolley car 
from Sullivan Square terminal of the elevated railway via Maiden 
and Melrose. 




Rustic Bridge 

MlDDLI 



AND Waterfall, 
SEX Fells 



PARKWAYS 151 

Governor Hutchinson Field. Milton. Fart of the estate of the royal 
governor in the years immediately preceding the Revolution. Fine 
view of the Neponset River and its meadows, Boston city and 
harbor, and Massachusetts Bay. Reached by train or trolley car 
to Milton I.>ower Mills, and walk of ten minutes through Adams 
Street. 

PARKWAYS 

Furnace Brook, 3.326 miles in length. Quincy. 

Blue Hills, 2.280 miles. Boston and Milton. 

Neponset River, 1.120 miles. Hyde Park and Milton. 

West Roxbury, 1.5 10 miles. Boston, West Roxbury District. 

Fresh Pond, .520 mile. Cambridge. 

Middlesex Fells, 4.605 miles. Maiden, Medford, Somerville. 

Mystic Valley, 2.900 miles. Medford, Winchester. 

Revere Beach, 5.240 miles. Revere, Chelsea, Everett, Medford. 

Lynnway, .690 mile. Revere, Lynn. 

Nahant Beach, 2.230 miles. Nahant. 




152 ARLINGTON 



IV. DAY TRIPS FROM BOSTON 

LEXINGTON AND CONCORD 

Lexington is reached from Boston by electric car via Arlington, or by 
train, Boston & Maine Railroad, North Station. Concord is also reached 
by both electric and steam cars. To include both places in a single trip 
there is a choice of routes : one wholly by trolley car, another partly by 
trolley and partly by steam car (from Lexington to Concord), a third 
wholly by train. The route wholly by electrics is by an Arlington 
Heights car, passing along Massachusetts Avenue through Cambridge 
and Arlington, to the Lexington town line ; thence by a Boston and Lex- 
ington electric car, through East Lexington to Lexington Center, by the 
historic green ; thence to Concord by way of Bedford, finishing in the 
main square of the town. To reach Concord directly from Boston 
the usual and by far the quickest way is to take the steam railroad. 
There are two routes, — one by the Fitchburg Division of the Boston & 
Maine, the other by the Southern Division, the latter being the line 
which comes through Lexington. 

The trolley-car route to Lexington passes numerous historic points in 

Arlington (the early Menotomy, later West Cambridge), all associated 
with the affair of the 19th of April, 1775. Before the town line is 
reached the visitor must needs be on the lookout for tablets. In 
North Cambridge (Porter's Station on the near-by railroad) is the first 
one. This stands just above the church beyond " Porter's," the old 
hotel, a relic of past days. It marks a point where four Americans tvere 
killed by British soldiers on the retreat. Two miles and more beyond, 
after a brick car house is passed and the railroad crossed, the next tab- 
let may be seen, on the right side of the road. This marks the site of 
the Black Horse Tavern, where three members of the Committee of 
Safety of 1775 — Colonel Azor Ome, Colonel Jeremiah Lee, and 
Elbridge Gerry of Marblehead — were spending the night of the i8th 
of April, and barely escaped capture by the British soldiers on the 
march out to Lexington and Concord. 

Nearing the town center, the Arlington Hcaise is marked, " Here 
stood Coopei'''s Taver7i, in which Jabez Wyman and Jason Winship were 
killed by the British, April 19, 1775." A little way beyond this tavern, 
at the right, is Mystic Street, down which, a hundred yards from the 
avenue, is a tablet inscribed with this marvelous tale : " Near this spot 
Samuel Whittemore, then eighty years old, killed three British soldiers 



EAST LEXINGTON 153 

April 19, 1775. He was shot, bayonetted, beaten, and left for dead, 
but recovered and lived to be ninety-eight years of age." At the junc- 
tion of the avenue and Pleasant Street, in front of the church green, a 
tablet records that "at this spot on April 19th, 1775, the old men of 
Menotomy captured a convoy of English soldiers with supplies, on its 
way to join the British at Lexington." Behind the church on Pleasant 
Street is the old burying ground where a number who fell in the fight 
during the British retreat were buried. Farther down Pleasant Street, 
on the borders of fair Spy Pond, is the Jioine of JoJui T. Trowbridge, 
author and poet. On the avenue again, above the church green, is the 
fine Robbins Memorial Library, and a little beyond this, near the corner 
of Jason Street, another tablet appears, identifying the " site of the house 
of Jason Russell, where he and eleven others were captured, disarmed 
and killed by the retreating British." Farther along on the plain near- 
ing Arlington Heights are two or three old houses which suffered damage 
in the fight. At the top of the incline the " Foot of the Rocks,^^ as this 
]3oint w^as called at the time of the Revolution, is reached. To the left 
a road leads up to " the Heights," from which a beautiful view is to 
be had. 

The car stables close to the Lexington line are only a little way 
beyond. Here the change is made to the Lexington car a few steps 
above. 

East Lexington, or the East Village as it used to be called, is now a 
tranquil hamlet, with an old-fashioned store or two, some comfortable- 
looking houses along the main avenue, a few memorials of the British 
invasion, and a little church in which Emerson occasionally preached 
(the octagonal structure on the right side of the avenue, known as the 
Follen C/iJirch, from Charles Follen, the German scholar, its minister, 
who was lost in the burning of the steamer Lexington on Long Island 
Sound in 1840). At the junction of the avenue and Pleasant Street is 
a tablet set up beside a drinking fount, which marks the point where 
the first armed man of the Revolution was taken, — only to rearm him- 
self and fight later on Lexington Green. He w^as Benjamin Wellington, 
a minuteman. A short distance beyond is a plain white house, on the 
right side, upon which is a tablet identifying it as the " home of Jonathan 
Harrington, the last survivor of the Battle of Lexington." This, how- 
ever, was not the place where Jonathan lived at the time of the fight. 
He was a boy then (a fifer to the minutemen) and lived with his father, 
another Jonathan Harrington, whose house also is standing, a little 
farther on, at the corner of Maple Street. In the sidewalk in front of 
the latter house is one of the largest elms in New England. One 
day in 1753 the elder Jonathan drove an ox team to Salem, and on 



^S4 



.EXINGTON 



the way back he pulled up an elm shoot to brush the flies off the 
oxen. When he got home he set it out, and this great tree has grown 
from it. 

Lexington. After passing the rural station of Munroe's, on the rail- 
road, the first object of interest, and a worthy one, is Miuiroe's Tavern, 
standing on an elm-shaded knoll at the left of the avenue. On its face 
is a tablet thus inscribed: "Earl Percy's headquarters and hospital, 
April 19, 1775. The Munroe Tavern built 1695." Percy occupied the 
room on the left of the entrance door, and this was made the temporary 
hospital. The room on the right was the taproom, where the soldiers 
were freely supplied with liquor. 

When the retreat began some of the soldiers discharged their guns, killing 

John Raymond, who had served them and who was trying to escape through 

a back door. A bullet 
hole made by one of the 
British musket balls is 
still seen in the ceiling 
of this room. The 
departing soldiers also 
started a fire in the 
tavern, but it was put 
out. In the southeast 
part of the second story 
was the tavern dining 
room, and here W'ash- 
ington dined in Novem- 
ber, 1789, when on his 
last journey through 

New England. This house was much larger then, with spreading outbuildings. 

Abandoned as a tavern years ago, it has been preserved as a memorial of the 

Revolution. 

As the town center is approached historic sites multiply. The hill on 
the left is marked as the point where one of the British fieldpieces was 
planted to command the village and its approaches. Near it, we are 
informed by the same tablet, " several buildings were burned." A httle 
way beyond Bloomfield Street, at the left, is about the point where 
Percy met Smith's retreating force, and at the right, in front of the 
High School, a granite cannon marks the spot where he planted a field- 
piece to cover the retreat. 

Arrived at Lexington Green, — the Ctnumon where the "battle" 
occurred, — the visitor will find every point of importance designated 
by a monument or tablet. Thus at the lower end is the stone pulpit 
marking the site of the first three meetinghouses, a " spot identified 




LEXINGTON ^55 

with the to^vn's history for one hundred and fifty years." Near by is a 
bronze statue of a yeoman with gun in hand standn^g on a heap of 
roclvs Where the minutemen were lined up is indicated by a bowlder 
inscnbed with the words of Captain Parker : " Stand your ground. Don't 
fire unless fired upon, but if they mean to have a war, let it begm here. 
On the west side of the ground is the old stone monument now in a 
beautiful mantle of ivy, which the State erected in 1799, and for which 
the patriot minister of Lexington, Jonas Clarke, wrote the oratorical 
inscription In a stone vault back of it are deposited the remains of 
those who fell in the engagement, which were removed to this place 
from their common grave in the village burying ground. With the 
modern houses about the green are three which were standing at he 
time of the battle. On the north side is a house m an old garden 
which was the Buckman Tavern, "a rendezvous of the minutemen a 
mark for British bullets," as the tablet on its face states. On the 
south side a plain white house bears the legend "A witness of the 
battle" On the west side, at the corner of Bedford Street, is a 
house in which lived Jonathan Harrington, who, "wounded on the 
Common" in the engagement, "dragged himself to ^^e door and died 
at his wife's feet." A few steps from the Unitarian Church, on this 
s[de is a lane with a bowlder at its corner marked "Ye Old Burying- 
Ground 1690." Among the many quaintly inscribed gravestones here 
are the tombs of the ministers John Hancock, grandfather of Gov- 
ernor John Hancock, and Jonas Clarke, and monuments to Captam 
Parker of the minutemen and Governor William Eustis, who was 
a student with General Joseph Warren and served as ^ ^^]^^^l^} 
Bunker Hill and through the war. He was governor of the State 

'""ofnlncock Street is the historic Hancock-Clarke house (moved 

from its original site on the opposite side of the way), the home of the 

r^L" ters, first Hancock and then Clarke. Here John Hancock and 

lamuel Adams were stopping the night before the battle, and were 

flsed at midnight from then- sleep by ^f^^^^^-^^Z"^^^ \Z 

taken by their guard to Captain James Reed's m Burlmgton. The 

venerabL house is now a museum of Revolutionary f^^-J-^^ 

Town Hall, below the green, are the Memorial Hall and Carey I ublic 

. Li" ary, in which is a larger museum of relics, with luimerous portraits, 

old Prints and Major Pitcairn's pistols, captured during he ret eat. 

Here are tatues of The Minuteman of '75; The Union Soldier ; John 

Hancock, bv Thomas R. Gould; -^. Samuel Adams by Martin 

Milmore. In the public hall above is a nne pamtmg of the Battle of 

Lexington by Henry Sandham. _ 



156 



CONCORD 




Concord 



Waltham Street, opening directly opposite the Town Hall, leads 
toward the birthplace of Theodore Parker, in Spring Street, about two 

miles distant. 

BATTLE i IGROUN'D 



Concord. The heart 
of the town is the 
square in the center, 
where the most con- 
spicuous object is 
the 

Unitarian Church, 
destroyed by fire in 
1900, and wisely re- 
built on the old simple 
and dignified lines. 
This was the site of 
a still older meeting- 
house where the Pro- 
vincial Congress sat. 
Next to it is the 

Wright Tavern, 
dating from i 747. 

Here Major Fitcairn drank his toddy on the day of the fight. 
Taking the Lexington road from the square we pass, first, the 
Concord Antiquarian Society^s house, full of relics and old furniture, 

and, a little farther, on a road diverging to the right. 

The Emerson house, where Ralph Waldo Emerson Uved the greater 

part of his life and where he died. His study is preserved as he left 

it. The house is now 

occupied by his daughter. 

Miss Ellen Emerson. 

Returning to Lexington 

Street and proceeding 

about a quarter of a mile, 

we come to 

The School of Philosophy 

and Alcott house. The 

unpainted, chapel-like 

building was the home of 

the school, and the house 

near it was the " Orchard House," in which the Alcott family lived for 

twenty years. Here Louisa M. Alcott wrote " Little Women," which 

turned the tide in the family's fortunes. Just beyond, under the hill, is 




The Alcott Hol'se 



CONCORD 



157 



The Wayside, also occupied at one time by the Alcotts, but better 
known as the home of Hawthorne after the return from Europe. Here 
the family were living at the time of Hawthorne's sudden death in New 
Hampshire. " Hawthorne's Walk " is on the crest of the ridge that 
rises abruptly behind the house. Returning to the square, we ascend, 
on the right, the old 

Hillside Burying Ground. Here are historic graves, including those 
of Emerson's grandfather and Major John Buttrick, who led the fight 
at the Old North Bridge ; and some unique epitaphs, especially that of 
John Jack, the slave. The church 
near this burying ground is now a 
Catholic church, and turning the 
corner of the lane on which it 
stands, we soon come to 

Sleepy Holloiv Cemetery. Here, 
on a high ridge beyond the beauti- 
ful hollow which gives the ceme- 
tery its name, are, in proximity, the 
graves of Hawthorne, of Emerson, 
of Thoreau, of Louisa M. Alcott 
and her father. Near the foot of 
this slope should not be over- 
looked the Hoar family lot and 
the beautiful epitaphs placed by 
the late Judge Hoar upon the 
monuments to his father, Samuel 
Hoar, and to his brother, Edward 
Hoar. The exquisitely appropri- 
ate inscription on the Soldiers' 
Monument in the square was also 
written by Judge Hoar. Return- 
ing once more to the square, and proceeding thence on Monument 
Street for about half or three quarters of a mile. 

The Old Manse, where Emerson wrote " Nature," and Hawthorne 
lived for a time, is seen on the left, standing back from the road. 
The- study of both Emerson and Hawthorne was a small room at the 
back of the second floor. This house was built ten years before the 
battle at the bridge close by, and was for many generations the house of 
the minister of the village. A little this side of it is the home of Judge 
Keyes, which dates from before the Revolution, and in the ell of which 
may still be seen the hole through which passed a musket ball fired at 
some patriot who was standing in the doorway at the time of the fight. 




Battle Monument 



158 CONCORD 

The Battle Ground. The wooded lane just beyond the Old Manse 
leads to the scene of the battle at the Old North Bridge, the stor)' of 
which is told by the inscriptions on the monuments there. Most 
pathetic is the simple inscription which marks the graves of unknown 
British soldiers killed on the spot. French's bronze Minuteman fitly 
stands on the opposite side of the river, at about the point where the 
Amiericans made their attack. 

Hotcse of the First Minister. If on our way back we turn to the right 
after crossing the railroad tracks, and then to the left, we shall pass the 
site of the house in which Peter Bulkeley, the first Concord minister, 
lived, — he who made the bargain with the Indians for the land of Con- 
cord, which secured to the colonists its "peaceful possession." This 
is on Lowell Street, and a few steps farther and facing the square, 
our starting point, is a low wooden block, a part of which was one of 
the storehouses sacked by the British. 

Continuing through the square and turning to the right, the first 
house beyond the very pretty bank building is one a part of which is 
said to have been the original blockhouse built by the first settlers as 
a defense against the Indians. Beyond, on the left, at the junction 
of the two roads, is the 

Concord Public Library. Here are some interesting busts and pictures, 
and a collection — astonishingly large — of books written by residents 
of Concord. 

Homes of the Hoar Family. Continuing on the main street, the fourth 
house from the blockhouse was the home of Samuel Hoar, the first 
of the name. Here were born his eminent sons, the late Judge Hoar 
and Senator Hoar. The next house is the home of the present Samuel 
Hoar, now the leading man of the town ; and the next beyond that is 
the home of the widow of Sherman Hoar, Judge Hoar's youngest son. 
On the left, near the corner of Thoreau Street and secluded by a hedge 
of trees, is the 

Thoreau House. Here Thoreau lived during the last twelve years of 
his life, and here he died of consumption. The Alcott family also 
lived in this house for several years. The site of Thoreau's hut by 
Walden Pond is marked by a cairn made by visitors. Still continuing 
on the main street and bearing to the right, we find, just beyond the 
little stone Episcopal church which stands on the left. 

The Home of Frank B. Sanborn. Here, in what is perhaps the pret- 
tiest house in Concord, and close to tJie river, lives Frank Sanborn, 
the last of the men who gave Concord a world-wide reputation, and 
fam6us as an antislavery man, as schoolmaster, lecturer, and author. 
A tt\ile or more beyond the Sanborn house is 



NORTH SHORE 159 

The Concord Reformatory. This institution, intended for younger and 
the less hardened criminals, is a large one, and is believed to be a model 
of its kind. 

Concord Schools. Concord has always been remarkable for its schools ; 
and besides its public schools it contains an Episcopal boarding school, 
with grounds sloping to the river, not far from the Sanborn house, and 
also a Unitarian boarding school, situated on the road to Lowell, about 
three miles beyond the village. 

Home of Edward Emerson. On the same road, a mile or so beyond 
the village, is the home of Emerson's only son, Dr. Edward Emerson, 
a physician and artist, and the author of that most valuable and 
interesting book, " Emerson in Concord." 

THE NORTH SHORE 

Lynn (about 12 miles distant from Boston) can be reached in twenty 
minutes by steam railroad (Boston & Maine, Eastern Division, from 
the North Station) or by the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn Railroad, a 
longer route but running closer to the sea, w^hich begins with a short 
trip in a ferryboat, taken at Rowe's Wharf, Atlantic Avenue (a station 
of the elevated railway close by). If time can be spared, one may 
journey pleasantly to Lynn in Boston and Northern electric cars, taken 
in the Subway at the Scollay Square station, and running through the 
Charlestown District (past the Navy Yard), Chelsea, Revere, and thence 
straight across the broad Saugus marshes with their numerous inlets, 
and with the ocean in sight on the extreme right. We reach first 

West Lynn. The works of the General Electric Company and 
numerous shoe factories are here. A mile or so beyond is 

Lynn proper, a great shoe city. At Central Square electric cars may 
be taken for trips in various directions, especially to the Lynn Woods, 
the beautiful reservation of about two thousand acres. From Central 
Square, also, " barges " (a kind of long-drawn bus) run to the aristo- 
cratic summer resort of 

Nahant (" cold roast Boston "), the oldest of eastern summer resorts, 
occupying a rocky promontory. A large white mansion is the home 
of Henry Cabot Lodge. There is also good sea bathing here, cold 
as ice water. To the northeast is Egg Rock with its lighthouse, show- 
ing a fixed red light. Returning to Lynn, an electric may be taken, 
if one desires, to 

Saugus. Here are the Boardman houses, so called, the homes of 
minutemen in 1776, and " Appleton's pulpit," a huge rock, from which 
in September, 1687,, Major Samuel Appleton of Ipswich harangued 



i6o MARBLEHEAD AND SALEM 

the people in favor of resistance to Andros. Here also is the site of 
the first iron mine and foundry in the Colony. 

Returning again to Lynn, we may take an electric car for Salem via 
Swampscott and Marblehead, — a pleasant route passing many summer 
homes and traversing the Lynn Shore Reservation of the Metropolitan 
Parks System, which at its northern end joins King's Beach in Swamp- 
scott. Passing Beach Bluff and Clifton Heights, we come to 

Marblehead, the quaint, irregular town with crooked streets full of 
old-time suggestions. Barges or a steam ferry may be taken here to 




The Churn, or Spouting Hor-n, Marblehead Neck 

Marblehead Neck, the site of a summer hotel and of the clubhouses 
of the Eastern and Corinthian Yacht Clubs. At the north end of the 
town is Fort Sewall, and various islands are in sight, notably "Misery" 
island, which is devoted by a club to sports and merriment. From 
Marblehead we may go by electric car or by steam railroad — or one 
might have gone directly from Boston by the Boston & Maine (North 
Station) — to 

Salem, once the chief port of New England. Here are many stately, 
reposeful old houses : the Custom House in which Hawthorne was 
employed; the County Jail and Court House, in which many relics of 
the witchcraft persecution are preserved ; Gallows Hill, where the 
condemned were hun^; the Roger Williams house; the house on 



TOWNS NEAR SALEM i6i 

Federal Street in which Lafayette was entertained in 17S4 and 
Washington in 1789; Hawthorne's birthplace on Union Street, and 
various Hawthorne homes and landmarks ; and the Pickering mansion, 
built in 1649. Here also are the Essex Institute and the Peabody 
Academy of Science, with their interesting collections of documents, 
relics, and curiosities, many of them redolent of the sea and foreign 
commerce. 

Near-by towns are 

Peabody, named for George Peabody, the London-Americin banker, 
with the Peabody Institute, containing, besides many relics, a portrait 
of Queen Victoria, given by her to Mr. Peabody ; and 

Danvers, the home of General Israel Putnam, and at one time of 
Whittier. Here stands the fine old Hooper or Collins house, one of 
the best of Provincial mansions remaining, which General Gage used 
as his headquarters in the summer of 1774; and not far away is the 
Colonial farmhouse once occupied by Rebecca Nourse, the good house- 
wife and kind neighbor who was executed for witchcraft. 

From Salem electric cars run through Beverly to the tip end of Cape 
Ann; but from Beverly they take an inland course through the towns 
of Wenham, Hamilton, Essex, and West Gloucester, whereas the 
Gloucester branch of the steam railroad diverges to the east at Beverly 
and runs along the coast. 

Beverly, settled in 1628, is now a shoe town in one part and a summer 
resort in the other parts. There are many wooded walks and drives 
here, and through Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms, West Manchester, 
and Manchester-by-the-Sea, noted for its "singing beach," which gives 
forth a musical note as one walks over it. Here also is the Masconomo 
House, a famous summer hotel and the scene of open-air drama. 
Beyond are Magnolia and 

Gloucester, the port from which the hardy fishermen sail to " The 
Banks " for cod and haddock, and to which many of them never return. 
Kipling's " Captains Courageous " is the best guide book for Gloucester. 
At the extreme tip of Cape Ann is 

Rockport, famous for its granite quarries, for its breakwater, built by 
the Federal government, and for its rocky scenery, much haunted by 
artists. The Isles of Shoals lie off the shore, and also Thatcher's Island, 
with its twin lights. 

Salem Itinerary. A day might well be devoted to Salem alone. The 
following itinerary, arranged for the visitor who has only an hour or two 
for its exploration, embraces the more important or most interesting 
places and sites. 



i62 SALEM 

The start is made from Town House Square (Washington Street at 
the crossing of Essex Street), a little way above the railroad station. 
On Washington Street, between the station and the square, on the west 
side of the railroad tunnel, is seen the 

Joshua Ward House (No. 148), in which Washington passed a night 
when in Salem on his tour of New England in the autumn of 1789. 
He occupied the northeast chamber of the second story. This house 
IS on the site of the dwelling of the high sheriff, George Corwin, the 
executioner of the witchcraft victims in 1692. 

From Town House Square turn into Essex Street east. The Unita- 
rian Church on the southeast corner occupies the site of the 

First Meetinghouse, built prior to 1635 for the first church in Salem, 
formed in 1629. The present is the fourth in succession on this spot. 
The second one was the place of the examinations of the unhappy 
accused " witches '' before the deputy governor and councilors from 
Boston in April, 1692. Beside the third one, "three rods west" of it, 
facing Essex Street, stood the 

Town House in which in 1774 met the last General Assembly of the 
Province of Massachusetts Bay and the first Provincial Congress. A 
short distance up Essex Street, at No. 10 1, is the 

Peabody Academy of Science (founded upon an endowment by George 
Peabody, the American banker in London), in the East India Marine 
Building. This contains the natural history and ethnological collec- 
tions of the Essex Institute, and the nautical museum of the East 
India Marine Society (dating from 1799), with large additions, so 
arranged as to be educational rather than merely entertaining. On the 
opposite side of the street, at No. 134, is 

Plummer Hall, the house of the Salem Athencrum (proprietary library, 
24,000 volumes). This occupies the site of the house in which William 
H. Prescott, the historian, was bom, and in which earlier lived Nathan 
Read, who invented and successfully sailed a paddle-wheel steamboat in 
1 789, some years before Fulton. In Colony days the Downing-Bradstreet 
house was here (the homestead lot being covered by this building and 
its neighbor, the Cadet Armory), first the home of the Puritan Emanuel 
Downing, whose son George Downing gave his name to Downing Street 
in London, and afterward that of Simon Bradstreet, the last colonial 
governor. Next above Plummer Hall is the 

Essex Institute (No. 132), which comprises the Institute museum of 
historical objects, manuscripts, documents, and portraits, many and rare, 
the largest and most notable collection of its kind in the country ; and 
the library, containing about 85,000 volumes, 302,000 pamphlets, and 
700 volumes of manuscript. The visitor upon entering the Institute 



SALEM 



■63 




F OF Hawthoknk 



should procure a copy of its guide, which gives the details of the inter- 
esting exhibit here. 

From Essex Street on the south side, just above these institutions, 
turn into Union Street, which leads to the 

Birthplace of Hawthorne, in the ancient gambrel-roofed house, No. 27. 
This house dates from before 1692, and belonged to Hawthorne's 
grandfather, Daniel Hathonie (the romancer changed the spelling of 
the name) after 1772. Hawthorne was 
born (1804) in the northwest chamber. 
Back of this house, facing on Herbert 
Street, is the 

Herbert Street Hawthortie House (nov, 
a tenement house, Nos. 10 >< and 12), 
formerly owned by Hawthorne's mater- 
nal grandfather. Manning, in which 
much of the author's boyhood was 
passed, and where he afterward lived 
and wrote at intervals during his man 
hood. His " lonely chamber " was tht j 
northwest room of the third story. 

From Derby Street, which Union 
Street crosses, pass to Charter Street northward, in which is the 

Charter Street Burying Ground, " Old Burying Point," dating from 
1637, fancifully sketched by Hawthorne. Here are graves or tombs of 
Governor Simon Bradstreet ; the witchcraft judge Hathorne and other 
ancestors of Hawthorne; the two chief justices Benjamin Lynde, 
father and son ; Nathaniel Mather, younger brother of Cotton Mather 
of Boston, precociously learned and pious, who died " an aged man at 
nineteen years " ; Richard More, a boy passenger on the Mayflower ; 
and " Dr. John Swinnerton, physician," whose name Hawthorne util- 
ized in two of his romances. Adjoining the burying ground is the 

'■'■Dr. Grimshawe" House {t,^ Charter Street) of "Dr. Grimshawe's 
Secret" and "The Dolliver Romance," — the home of Dr. Nathaniel 
Peabody at the time of Hawthorne's courtship of Sophia Amelia 
Peabody, who became his wife. 

On Derby Street, a short distance westward, is the 
Salefn Custom House. The office which Hawthorne occupied as sur- 
veyor of the port in 1 846-1 849 was the comer room of the first floor, 
at the left of the entrance. The stencil, " N. Hawthorne," with which 
he marked inspected goods, is preserved here as a memento ; the de.sk 
upon which he wrote is in the Essex Institute. The room in which he 
fancied the discovery of the scarlet letter is on the second floor of the 



i64 



SALEM 



easterly side of the building, in the rear of the collector's otiice. In 
Hawthorne's time this was an unused room, with boxes and barrels of 
old papers. 

Three or four streets east of the Custom House is Turner Street, by 
which return should be made to Essex Street. On Turner Street the 
old house No. 54 is marked the 

House of the Seven Gables. This is not correct, for Hawthorne, upon 
his own statement, took no particular house for his model in the romance 
of this name. The house is interesting, however, as one which Haw- 
thorne much frequented, it then being the home of the Ingersoll family, 

his relatives. It may 
/ have suggested the title of 

the romance. Here the 
"Tales of Grandfather's 
Chair" originated. 

From Turner Street cross 
Essex Street to Washington 
Square, with its stately 
houses of early nineteenth- 
century build, bordering the 
fine Common. On the north 
side, at the corner of Winter 
Street, is the 

Story House, in which lived 

Judge Joseph Story, and 
Salem Custom House , , . ttt.,,. ,,r 

where his son, William W. 

The -f marks the office occupied by Hawthorne ^^^^^ ^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ SCulptOr, 

was born. On Mall Street, the second street from this side, the house 
No. 14 was 

Hawthorne's Mall Street House, where " The Scarlet Letter " was 
written. The study here was the front room in the third story. 

From the west side of the square take Brown Street to St. Peter's 
Street, thence pass to Federal Street, and so to Washington Street 
again by Town House Square. On Howard Street, north from Brown 
Street, is the Prescott Schoolhouse, said to be near the site of the place 
where Giles Corey, the last victim of the witchcraft frenzy, was pressed 
to death. On Federal Street is the site of the 

Witchcraft Jail of i6g2, covered by the house (No. 2) of the historical 
scholar, Abner C. Goodell. In this jail the persons accused of witch- 
craft were confined, and from it the condemned were taken to the place 
of execution. Some of the timbers of the old jail are in the present 
house. 




SALEJVI 165 

On Washington Street, just about where Federal Street enters, is the 
site of 

Governor Endicoifs "faire house." At the southern comer of Wash- 
ington and Church streets stood the 

Bishop House, where in 1692 Hved Edward and Bridget Bishop, the 
latter the first witchcraft victim to be hanged. About opposite, on the 
west side of Washington Street, near Lynde Street, was the 

House of Nicholas Noyes, minister of the first church at the time of 
the witchcraft delusion, and a firm believer in it. In the middle of the 
street here stood the 

Court House of i6g2, where the witchcraft trials were held. In the 
present Court House, at the end of Washington Street, facing Federal 
Street, are 

Witchcraft Documents and Relics, in the custody of the clerk of the 
courts. Among these are the manuscript records of the testimony 
taken at the trials, the death warrant of Bridget Bishop, wuth Sheriff 
Corwin's return thereon, recording that he had " caused her to be hanged 
by the neck till she was dead and buried," the last words being crossed 
with a pen, apparently by the careful sheriff on second thought ; and 
some of the " witch-pins " which were produced in court as among the 
instruments of torture used by the accused. Through Federal Street 
west and North Street north is reached the 

North Bridge, in place of the bridge of Revolutionary days, where the 
" first armed resistance to the royal authority was made " on a Sunday 
in February, 1775, nearly two months before the affair at Lexington and 
Concord, when the advance of the British force, led by Lieutenant 
Colonel Leslie, to seize munitions of war, was arrested by the people 
of Salem. A spirited painting, " The Repulse of Leslie," is in the Essex 
Institute. 

Return through North Street to Essex Street west. On the corner 
of North Street (310 Essex Street) is the 

Witch House, so called persistently without warrant beyond the tra- 
dition that some of the preliminary examinations of accused persons 
were held here, it being at the time of the delusion the dwelling of 
Judge Jonathan Corwin of the court. It i.s said to have been earlier 
the home of Roger W^illiams (in 1635-1636). It is the oldest house 
now standing in Salem. 

Through Summer Street from Essex pass to Chestnut Street, lined 
with great elms and bordered by many fine old-time mansions. At 
No. 18 was 

Hawthorne'' s Chestnut Street House, which he occupied less than two 
years at the beginning of the surveyorship period. Little literary work 



i66 



SALEM 



appears to have been done here. At an earher period John Pickermg, 
the Greek lexicographer, hved in this house. On Broad Street, the 
next street south, at No. i8, is the many-gabled 

Pickering House, dating back to 1660, the birthplace of Timoth.y 
Pickering, the distinguished soldier and statesman of the Revolution 
and member of Washington's cabinet. Opposite, at the head of Broad 
Street, is a succession of school buildings, — 

The Latin and High Schools, the former of which is one of the oldest 
in the country. Behind these buildings is the 

Broad Street Burying Grotuid, second in age to the Charter Street 
Burying Ground, having been laid out in 1655. Here are the tombs 

of the Pickerings, of Corwin, the witch- 
craft sheriff, and of General Frederick 
W. Lander. 

Return to Essex Street, and after a 
call at the Public Library (No. 370), on 
the corner of Monroe Street, and a 
glance at the fine old-time mansions of 
the neighborhood, — notably the Cabot 
house, dating from 1748, for a third 
of a century the home of William C 
Endicott, Justice of the Supreme Court 
and member of President Cleveland's 
cabinet, — take a car for 

Gallows Hill, where the nineteen 
victims of witchcraft were hanged. It 
is on Boston Street (the old Boston 
Road), approached from Hanson Street, where the conductor should 
be signaled to stop. 

Returned to Town House Square, the visitor may, if he have time, 
spend a few minutes profitably in the City Hall in looking over the 
unusual collection of portraits here. They include a Washington 
painted by Jane Stuart, a copy of a half-length portrait by her father, 
Gilbert Stuart ; a portrait of President Andrew Jackson by Major R. 
E. W. Earle of his military family in 1833; and portraits of Endicott. 
South of the railroad .station is a nest of old buildings in old streets, 
among them the Ruck house, 8 Mill Street, dating from before 1651, 
interesting as the sometime home of Richard Cranch, where John 
Adams frequently visited (Adams and Cranch married sisters), and 
at a later time occupied by John Singleton Copley, the Boston painter, 
when here painting the portraits of Salem worthies. 




Chestm I -SlRI 



Salem 



THE SOUTH SHORE 167 



THE SOUTH SHORE 

The pleasant places along the South Shore between Quincy and 
Plymouth are brought into connection with Boston and with each other 
by electric-car systems, while the steam railroad traverses the country 
closest to the shore. The most direct electric-car route from Boston 
to Plymouth is through Quincy, Braintree, South Braintree, Holbrook, 
Brockton, Whitman, Hanson, Pembroke, the Plymouth Woods, West 
Duxbury, and Kingston. For this route the Neponset car should be 
taken at the Dudley Street terminal of the Elevated. The trunk line 
continues through Quincy to Brockton, where change is made to the 
Plymouth line. Other lines between Quincy and Brockton pass through 
Quincy Point, across Weymouth Fore River, through Weymouth, cross- 
ing Weymouth Back River, Hingham, the Old Colony Woods, Nan- 
tasket, Hingham Center, Rockland, and Whitman, making connection 
at the latter place with the Plymouth line. 

The pleasantest steam-railroad journey is by the South Shore route 
(New York, New Haven & Hartford system. South Station), passing 
through Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Cohasset, Scituate, 
Marshfield, Duxbury, and Kingston, to Plymouth. The more direct 
route is by the main line through Braintree, South Weymouth, Abington, 
Whitman, Hanson, Halifax, and Kingston. 

Hingham is one of the loveliest as well as one of the oldest towns in 
Massachusetts (settled in 1633). Its broad main street is shaded by 
magnificent elms. Its Old Ship Church, with pyramidal roof and bel- 
fry, dating from 1679, ^^ ^he oldest existing meetinghouse in the country, 
and the quaintest. In the burying ground near it is the grave of John 
A. Andrezu, the war governor, marked with a statue by Gould. Com- 
fortable mansions of old type abound in the town. On a sightly hill is 
the home of John D. Long, governor, congressman, and Secretary of the 
Navy. 

Cohasset, with irregular rocky coast, commanding a wide extent of 
ocean prospect, is the most favored place of the upper South Shore for 
summer seats. On and about its quite renowned Jerusalem Road are 
numerous extensive estates with elaborate houses and grounds. The 
Jenisaiem Road to an unusual degree blends the charms of sea and 
shore. 

Scituate also enjoys a beautiful ocean front, with fair beaches and a 
pretty harbor, protected by rocky cliffs. This town is the scene ^Sam- 
uel Woodworth's lyric, " The Old Oaken Bucket." The old farm where 
the poet was born, which he immortaUzed in his song, was close by the 
present railroad station. 



l68 MARSIIP^IELI) AND DUXBURY 

Marshfield was the country home of Daniel Webster. The Webster 
place is some distance from the railroad, eastward. The ride or walk 
to it is along a country hillside road, from which beautiful views occa- 
sionally disclose themselves. The place originally included a part of 
" Careswell," the domain of the Plymouth Colony governor, Edward 
Winslow. Half a mile back from it is the tomb of Webster^ on Burying 
Hill, a tranquil spot among fields and pastures overlooking the sea. 
Before the tomb, of rough-hewn granite, a plain marble slab displays 
the epitaph which Webster dictated the day before his death (1852). 
In this inclosure are monuments to early Pilgrim settlers. 

Duxbury, the home of Elder Brewster, Miles Standish, and John and 
Priscilla Alden, is marked by the Standish Momimeiit oxv Captain's Hill, 
which looms up in the landscape, visible in a wide extent of country 
round about. Here is still standing the Stajidish Cottage, containing, it 
is believed, some of the materials of Standish's own house, on the slope 
of Captain's Hill; and in another part of the town is the ancient Atden 
homesi'ead, on the original Alden farm, which can be seen from the 
windows of the railroad car. In about the middle of the village, in the 
oldest of its burying grounds, the supposed ^nzz^*? of Standish is marked 
by a monument, — a miniature fortress. Here are also graves of the 
Alden family, and possibly the grave of Elder Brewster. 

Kingston, part of Plymouth till 1726, when setting up for itself it 
took its name of King's town in honor of George the Second, on his 
birthday, is a typical Old Colony town, with a cheerful air of substan- 
tiality. It has a number of interesting landmarks, the most notable 
being the Major fohn Bradford house. Major John was the last of 
the Bradford family to possess the Bradford manuscript, now returned 
from its adventures and safely housed in the State House at Boston 
(see p. 43). 

Plymouth is entered by either the railroad or the trolley line, close to 
its historic points. A walk not fatiguing from its length will embrace 
them all. If arrival is made by trolley car, the National Monianent is 
passed at the entrance to the town. It is but a short distance from 
the railroad station, and if the visitor comes by train it might well be 
visited first, although it is in the opposite direction from the other 
Pilgrim sites. The way is through Old Colony Park, a short tree-lined 
walk from the rear of the station to Court Street, thence, to the right, 
to Cushman Street and to Allerton Street. The great granite pile, 
surmounted by the colossal figure of Faith, and with groups of sitting 
figures, is seen placed to advantage in a broad open space on the crown 
of a hill. It was designed by Hammatt Billings, and finally completed 
nearly thirty years after the corner stone was laid. 



PLYMOUTH 



69 



Returning to Court Street and approaching the town center, FilgrifH 
Hall is reached, a little way beyond the head of Old Colony Park. In 
the front yard is a stone tablet inscribed with the words of the compact 
signed in the cabin of the Mayflower. The collection in the halls of 
the building, comprising Pilgrim anticjuities, paintings, prints, and other 
historical objects, is of great extent and value. Most interesting to 
many visitors is the 
Standish case, in 
which is the 
doughty cap- 
tain's sword, 
said to be of 
early Persian 
make. 

Above Pil- 
grim Hall is 
the County ( 
House, on the 

site side of the street, back 
from a green park, in which are 
precious documents of Pilgrim 
days. These are preserved in 
the oiSce of the registry of 
deeds, and include papers bear- 
ing the signatures of Bradford 
and Standish, orders in Brad- 
ford's handwriting, Standish's 
will, the plan of the first allot- 
ment of lands, the plotting of 
the first street (the present 
Leyden Street), and the original patent of 1629 granted to Bradford 
and his associates. 

North Street, just above the Court House, to the right from Court 
Street, leads to Plymouth Rock, under the high granite canopy also 
designed by Billings. The side gates in the iron railing are open dur- 
ing the daytime so that visitors may step upon the stone. Close by is 
Pilgrim Wharf. 

CoWs Hill, where the first houses of the colonists were set up, and 
where their first burials were made in unmarked graves, rises from the 
opposite side of Water Street, reduced and rounded now from a ragged 
elevation to a symmetrical green mound. On the brow is a small park 
overlooking the harbor. Here at the head of Middle Street, which 




Plymouth 



lyo PLYMOUTH 

opens from Carver Street, a tablet marks the spot where the skeletons 
of two of the forty-four Pilgrims, nearly half the number, who died dur- 
ing the first hard winter, were found a century and a half after. These 
remains, with parts of five other skeletons, are entombed in the chamber 
of the canopy over the rock. 

Leyden Street, next beyond Middle Street, the first and chief Pilgrim 
street, leads up to Burial Hill. Beyond its start at Carver Street the 
site of the first, or " common," house is seen, marked conspicuously, on 
the left side. 

Burial Hill rises abruptly from elm-shaded Town Square, a block 
from Main Street, practically a continuation of Court Street. Odd 
Fellows Building, on the comer of Main Street, marks the site of Gov- 
ernor Bradford'' s house. The site of the first meetinghouse is supposed 
to be covered by the tower of this building. Burial Hill was the place 
of the first forts, which served also as meetinghouses, and these are 
marked by oval tablets in the burying ground. The spot where the 
watch house was erected in 1643 i^ similarly marked. The most impor- 
tant monuments here are over the graves of the Bradfords and of the 
Cushmans. The Governor Bradford obelisk occupies a point com- 
manding the fullest view of the town below. Among other graves of 
note here are those of John Howland, the last survivor in Plymouth of 
the Mayfio^uer passengers, and Adoniram Judson, the early missionary 
to Burma. 

Watsoti's Hill, where the first Indians appeared to the colonists, and 
whence came the friendly Samoset and after him Massasoit, lies to the 
southward of Burial Hill. And below is seen the Town Brook crossing, 
where Massasoit and his braves were met by the Puritan leaders, from 
which meeting resulted the famous " league of peace." 




IIAKIIOK AND HAV 171 

V. EXCURSIONS AND TOURS 

HARBOR AND BAY 

To Pemberton (Hull) and Nantasket. By steamboats of Nantasket 
Beach Steamboat Company. Hourly from Rowe's Wharf (Atlantic 
Avenue circuit elevated railway station at door). Fare, 25 cents each 
way. Passengers have their choice of going to Nantasket by boat or 
landing at Pemberton and continuing to Nantasket along the shore 
by the third-rail electric trains of the New York, New Haven & Hart- 
ford Railroad. .Stations at Stony Beach, Allerton, Waveland, Kenberma, 
Bayside, and Windermere. 

To Crow Point and Hingham, By steamboats of above-named company 
from same wharf. Fare, 25 cents each way. 

To Plymouth. By steamboats of above-named company from same 
wharf. P^are, 75 cents each way. At Plymouth carriages are at the 
wharf for the tour of the town. Plymouth is also reached by railroad 
and electric lines (see South Shore, under Day Trips). 

To Provincetown. By steamer Cape Cod from Snow's Arch Wharf, 
near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic Avenue circuit, elevated railway 
(for details, see advertisements in daily papers), or by trains of the 
New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (Plymouth Division) from 
South Station. The trip by water across the bay is very pleasant on a 
calm day. The steamer remains at Provincetown for an hour or two, 
giving visitors opportunity to look over the quaint town, and especially 
the great sand dunes which rise back of it and break off the strong 
northeast gales. 

To Hough's Neck (a pleasant resort in the city of Quincy). By steam- 
boats from Snow's Arch Wharf, four times daily. 

To Nahant. By steamboats from Lincoln Wharf, close to Battery 
Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit, elevated railway. The boats 
pass out through Shirley Gut, between Winthrop and Deer Island. 
(For details of sailing, fares, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) 

To Gloucester. By steamboats from Central Wharf, near State Street 
station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Fare, 50 cents each w^ay ; round trip, 
75 cents. (For details of times of sailing, see advertisements in daily 
papers.) The boats of this line pass along the picturesque North Shore 
for the whole way, making a delightful trip. Gloucester is also reached 
by railroad and electric lines (see North Shore, under Day Trips). 

To Newburyport and Haverhill. By steamboats from Lewis Wharf, 
near Batteiy Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. (For details of 
sailing.^, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) 



172 MAINE COAST AND CANAIHAN TOINTS 



THE MAINE COAST AND RIVER POINTS 

To Portland. By steamboats of the Eastern Steamship Company 
from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. 
Every evening at 7. Fare, ^1.25 each way; stateroom extra, according 
to location. 

To Rockland and Bangor. By steamboats of above-named company 
from Foster's Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station. Every evening 
(except Sunday) at 5. These boats connect at Rockland w4th steamers 
of the same line for Mount Desert ; also with boats for various island 
and shore resorts in Penobscot Bay. 

To Bar Harbor (Mount Desert). By trains of the Boston & Maine 
Railroad (North Station) to Portland, at 7 p.m., Tuesdays and Fridays ; 
connecting at Portland with steamer Fran/; /ones of the Portland, Mount 
Desert & Machias Steamboat Company, which leaves at 11 p.m., arrives 
at Rockland early in the morning, and thence proceeds by daylight 
through the beautiful scenery of the islands in Penobscot Bay, touch- 
ing at Islesboro, Castine, Deer Isle, Sedgwick, Blue Hill, Brooklin, 
Southwest Harbor, Northeast Harbor, and arrives at Bar Harbor at 
about 2 P.M. Returning, leaves Bar Harbor at about 10 a.m. 

To Bath and Augusta. By steamers of the Eastern Steamship Com- 
pany from Union Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue 
circuit. Every evening (except Sunday) at 6. 

CANADIAN POINTS 

To Eastport, Me., and St. John, N.B. By steamers of the Eastern 
Steamship Company from Commercial Wharf, near State Street station, 
Atlantic Avenue circuit. Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. 

To Yarmouth, N.S. By steamers of the Dominion Atlantic Railway 
Company from Long Wharf (elevated railway station at the door). 
(For details of sailings, etc., see advertisements in daily papers.) At 
Yarmouth connections are made with other steamers of the line for 
ports along the south shore of Nova Scotia; also with trains of the 
Dominion Atlantic Railway for the " Land of Evangeline," the Annap- 
olis Valley, Halifax, and (via Digby and steamer across the Bay of 
Fundy) St. John, N.B. 

To Halifax, N.S., Cape Breton, and Prince Edward Islands. By steam- 
ers of the Plant Line from Lewis Wharf, near Battery Street station, 
Atlantic Avenue circuit. Tuesdays and Saturdays at noon. At Halifax 
connect with trains of the Intercolonial Railway for all parts of Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec; at Hawkesbury, C.B., with trains 



COASTWISK POINTS 173 

of the Intercolonial Railway for the Bras d'Or Lake, Sydney, and Louis- 
burg; at Charlottetown, P.E.I., with trains of the Prince Edward Lsland 
Railway for all parts of the island. At Sydney, C.B., the steamer Bruce 
may be taken for Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, connecting there 
with the Reid Newfoundland Company's railroad across the island of 
St. John's, a journey of twenty-eight hours. 

OTHER COASTWISE POINTS 

To New York around Cape Cod, through Vineyard Sound and Long 
Island Sound. By steamers of the Joy Steamship Company from 
wharf near the South Boston end of the Congress Street bridge. (For 
details, see advertisements in daily papers.) 

To Philadelphia. By steamers of the Boston & Philadelphia Steam- 
ship Company from India Wharf, near Rowe's Wharf station, Atlantic 
Avenue circuit. Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, at 3 p.m. Fare, 
^10 each way; round trip, ^iS, including meals and stateroom berth. 

To Norfolk and Baltimore. By steamers of the Merchants and Miners 
Transportation Company from Battery Wharf (station of elevated rail- 
way at the door). Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, at 

2 P.M. 

To Savannah, Ga. By steamers of the Ocean Steamship Company 
from Lewis Wharf, near Battery Street station, Atlantic Avenue cucuit. 
Wednesdays, at 3 p.m. 

To Charleston, S.C. By steamers of the Clyde Line. Twice a week. 
(For details, see advertisements in daily papers.) 

To Jamaica. By steamers of the United Fruit Company from Long 
Wharf, State Street station, Atlantic Avenue circuit. Sailings twice a 
week. Fare, ^35 each way ; round trip, ^60, meals and stateroom berth 
included, during the summer season. (For details, see advertisements in 
daily papers.) 

RAILROAD TOURS 

To Hyannis. By trains of the New York, New Haven & Hartford 
Railroad, Plymouth Division (South Station). Eight trains daily. A 
journey of about two hours and a half, via Bridgewater, Middleboro, 
Buzzards Bay, and Yarmouth. 

To Woods Hole. By the same route as the above to Buzzards Bay ; 
thence via Monument Beach and Falmouth. Trains and running time 
are about the same as to Hyannis. At Woods Hole is the Marine 
Biological Laboratory, incorporated in 1888 and opened in the summer 
of that year. Here investigations in marine biology are systematically 



174 RAILROAD TOURS 

and constantly pursued by a corps of scientists, aided during the summer 
months by students from several of the universities. 

To Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. By trains to Woods Hole, as 
above ; thence by steamers of the Marine District, New York, New 
Haven & Hartford Railroad. Train from Boston at 1.38 p.m. makes 
close connection at Woods Hole. At Nantucket the steamer connects 
with trains of the Nantucket Central Railroad for Siasconset. 

To Newport, R.I. By trains of the New York, New Haven & Hart- 
ford Railroad, Providence Division (South Station). Eight times daily 
(from Back Bay station four minutes later), via Mansfield, Taunton, and 
Fall River. A journey of about two hours. Also by trains of the same 
division to Providence, R.I., frequently through the day, a ride of one 
hour; thence by steamers of the Providence, Fall River & Newport 
Steamboat Company. The ride down Narragansett Bay is very beau- 
tiful. Round trip, 60 cents. 

To the White Mountains. By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad 
(North Station), Southern Division, via Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, 
Concord, and Franklin, N.H.; Western Division, via Lawrence, Haver- 
hill, Dover, and Rochester, N.H. ; Eastern Division, via Salem, New- 
buryport, Portsmouth, and Rochester, N.H. (or via Portland, Me., and 
Maine Central Railroad by Sebago Lake and Bartlett, N.H.); to all 
mountain points. By either route a choice of two or three through 
trains daily can usually be had. The exact leaving time of each train 
can be obtained from advertisements in the daily papers, or by inquiry 
at the information booth in the waiting room of the North Station, or 
at the company's up-town passenger office, comer of Washington 
and Milk streets, where tickets may be bought and parlor-car seats or 
Pullman berths secured. 

To Lake Champlain, Vermont Resorts, Montreal, and Canadian Points. 
By trains of the Boston & Maine Railroad, Southern Division, via Lowell, 
Concord, N.H., White River Junction, Vt., and Vermont Central Rail 
road; Fitchburg Division, via Fitchburg, Keene, N.H., Brattleboro and 
White River Junction, Vt., and Vermont Central Railroad; or via Rut- 
land, Vt., and the Rutland Railroad to Burlington ; thence through the 
midst of Lake Champlain, over its beautiful islands to Alburgh, and 
on to St. Johns, P.Q. The same remarks as to train service, hours of 
leaving, etc., apply as in the case of the White Mountain trips. 

To Saratoga, Lake George, and the Adirondacks. By trains of the Bos 
ton & Maine Railroad, Fitchburg Division, via Fitchburg, Greenfield, 
North Adams, and the Hoosac Tunnel. 'The same remarks as to train 
service, etc., apply as in the case of the two last outlined trips. 



IMPORTANT J'OTNTS OF INTKRKST 175 

VI. IMPORTANT POINTS OF INTEREST 

For the Visitor whose Time is limited 

The visitor who has only two or three days to spend in Boston will find the 
following list of leading points of interest helpful in arranging an itinerary. 

Old South Meetinghouse. Washington Street, corner of Milk Street. Loan 
historical collection here. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fee, 25 cents. 

Old State House. Head of State Street. Memorial halls with historical col- 
lections. Open from 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. ; Saturdays from 9.30 to 4. Free. 
(Temporarily closed, summer of 1903, on account of Subway building beneath it.) 

Faneuil Hall. Faneuil Hall Square. Also military museum of the Ancient 
and Honorable Artillery Company in their armory on the upper floors. Open 
from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M., except Saturdays and Sundays. Free. 

King's Chapel. Tremont Street, corner of School Street. Dating from 1754. 
Interesting interior. 

King's Chapel Burying Ground. Tremont Street, adjoining the Chapel. 
Oldest in Boston, established at about the time of the settlement. Contains 
tombs of the Winthrops, John Cotton, Governor Feverett, and numerous other 
Colonial families. 

Granary Burying Ground. Tremont Street, midway between Beacon and 
Park streets. Dating from 1660. Tombs and graves of governors of the Colony 
and the Commonwealth, and of Samuel Adams, James Otis, John Hancock, Paul 
Revere, Peter Faneuil, the parents of Benjamin Franklin, with many others of 
distinction or interest. 

Park Street Church. Corner of Tremont and Park streets. Dating from 
i8og. Historic. Interesting specimen of early nineteenth-century architecture, 
notably the tower and spire. 

St. Paul's Church. Tremont Street, near Temple Place, opposite the Com- 
mon. Dating from 1820. Interesting interior. Pew No. 25 that of Daniel 
Webster. 

State House. Beacon Hill. Beacon Street and State House Park. Front 
P^rt — the " Bullinch Front" so called — built 1795-1797; the extension erected 
1889-1895. Decorated interior. Numerous interesting features. Memorial Hall, 
with the batth flags, statues, and portraits. The " Bradford manuscript " in the 
State Library. State House Park, with statues and monume-" 

Shaw Monument. Beacon Street against the Common, opposite tlxC State 
House. Memorial to Colonel Robert G. Shaw, commander of the first regiment 
of colored troops in the Civil War. A statue in high relief upon a bronze tablet. 

Boston Athenaeum. loVz Beacon Street. Proprietary library. Dating from 
1807. oldest in the country. Interesting interior. 



176 IMPOKTANl' I'OINTS OK INTEKKST 

House of the Historic Genealogical Society. 18 Somerset Street. Contains 
the most extensive and valuable genealogical collection known. Op:n to visitors 
without fee or charge from 9 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily, except Sundays and holidays. 

Old West Church, Cambridge Street, corner of Lynde Street, West End. 
Now the West End Branch of the Public Library. Built in 1806. Interior 
architecture well preserved. Successor of the West Church of the Revolutionary 
period, which was occupied as barracks by the British, who pulled down the 
steeple and used it for firewood, the patriots having employed it for signaling 
the camp at Cambridge. 

Christ Church, Salem Street, North End. Oldest existing church in Boston. 
Interesting interior. Open daily. Fee, including view from the tower, 25 cents. 

Copp's Hill Burying Ground. Hull Street, opening opposite to Christ Church. 
Oldest part dating from 1660. Historic tombs and graves. 

Paul Revere's House. North Square; also various other old houses and his- 
toric sites of the North End. 

Bunker Hill Monument. Monument Square, Charlestown District. A few 
minutes' ride on the elevated rr.ilway from the North Station station. Revolu- 
tionary relics in the lodge. Opsn from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Fee, 20 cents. 

United States Navy Yard. Approach from City Square through Chelsea Street, 
Charlestown District. Naval Musoum cp^n from 9 A.M. to 4 p.m. Free. 

Natural History Museum. Berkeley Street, corner of Boylston Street, Back 
Bay. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with the exception of Wednesdays 
and Saturdays, when the hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free on these days; fee 
at other times, 25 cents. 

Art Museum. Copley Square, Back Bay. Open week days from 9 a.m. to 
5 P.M., with the exception of Mondays, when the hours are i to 5 p.m. Free on 
Saturdays and Sundays (Sunday hours from i to 3 p.m.) ; fee other times, 25 
cents. 

Public Library. Copley Square. Back Bay. Mural decorations by John S. 
Sargent, Edwin A. Abbey, and Puvis de Chavannes. Largest library in the 
world for free circulation. Open daily from 9 a.m. to g p.m. (through the summer 
months; other seasons till 10 p.m.) ; Sunday from 2 to 9 p.m. (summer; 10 p.m. 
other seasons). 

Trinity Church. Copley Square. One of the richest examples of ecclesias- 
tical architecture in the country. 

Harvard University Buildings and Museums. Cambridge; less than thirty 
minutes' ride by electric car from the Subway or Copley Square. (See Cambridge 
and Harvard, pp. 98-109.) 

Various parts of the chain of parks comprised in the Boston City Parks 
System and the public reservations embraced in the Metropolitan Parks System 
are within easy reach by electric or steam cars (see Public Parks, pp. i4^:'-i50 ; 
and there are pleasant harbor excursions to be enjoyed occupying only a few 
hours or part of a day. (See Harbor and Bay, under Excursions and Tours, 
p. 171.) 



INDEX 



Abbey, Edwin A., 82. 

Aberdeen District, 115. 

Adams Academy, Quincy, 135. 

Adams, Charles Francis, Sr., birthplace, 

34, 48; town house, 70. 
Adams, Charles Francis, Jr., g2 ; gift to 

Quincy Historical Society, 136. 
Adams, Henry, tomb, 135. 
Adams, Herbert, 77. 
Adams House, Boston, 34. 
Adams, John, portrait, 13, 14, 33 ; statue of, 

at Mt. Auburn, 108; gifts to Quincy, 

135; birthplace, 136. 
Adams, John Quincy, portrait, 13, 14; si e 

of mansion house, 34; tomb, 135; birtii- 

place, 136. 
Adams mansion, Quincy, 136. 
Adams, Samuel, portrait, 13, 14; statue, in 

Adams Square, 15, 16; tomb, 26, 27, 48; 

statue at Lexington, 155. 
Adams Square, Boston, modern, 16. 
Adams Street, Milton, 131; Quincy, 136. 
Addington Road, Brookline, 114. 
African church, first, Boston, 6g. 
Agassiz, Louis, monument, Mt. Auburn, 108. 
Alcott, A. Bronson, 71. 
Alcott, Louisa M., Boston homes, 71 ; Con- 
cord home, 156; grave, 157. 
Alcott family, homes, 156, 157, 158. 
Alden homestead, Duxbury, 168. 
Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, Boston homes, 70, 

71. 73- 

Algerine Corner, Milton, 132. 

Algonquin Clubhouse, Boston, 80. 

Allston, Washington, head of, 86; home,qq. 

American Acad, of Arts and Sciences, 92. 

American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions, 45, 46. 

American House (site of Warren's house), 
Boston, 1 8. 

American Peace Society, 30. 

American Unitarian Association, 45. 

American Waltham Watch Company, 127. 

Ames, Fisher, 137. 

Ames, Nathaniel, 137. 

Ancient and Hon. Artillery Company, ori- 
gin, 5; armory, 13; annual evolutions, 33. 

Andrew, Governor John A., portrait, 13, 
41, 42 ; grave and statue at Hingham, 167. 

Andros, Lady, tomb, 23. 

Andros, Sir Edmund, 5; subscriber to 
King's Chapel, 24, 25 ; church organiza- 
tion coerced by, 52 ; refuge of, 53. 

Anthology Club (Boston Athenaeum), 46. 

Appleton Chapel, Cambridge, loi. 

Appleton, Samuel, loi. 

Appleton's pulpit, Saugus, 159. 



Apthorp, Rev. East, 109. 

Arborway, 146. 

Archbishop's house, Boston, 93. 

Aristides, statue, 70. 

Arlington, 152, 153. 

Arlington House (Cooper's Tavern), 152 

Arlington Street Church, Boston, 77. 

Army and Navy Monument, Boston, 32. 

Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Park, 97, 

146. 
Arnold Arboretum and Jamaica Park, 97. 
Arsenal, Watertown, 128. 
Art Gallery, Maiden, 145. 
Art Museum, Boston, 46, 85, 86. 
Ashburton Place, Boston, 47. 
Aspinwall Hill, Brookline, 114. 
Athenitum, Salem, 162. 
Athletic Clubhouse, 81. 
Atlantic Avenue, Boston, 10, 53. 
Avery oak, Dedham, 138. 

Back Bay, extent, 74; filling, 75; District, 
plan, V. 

Back Bay Park. See Fens. 

Back Bay station, 81. 

Baily, Rev. John, 26. 

Baker, William f^merson, 121. 

Ball, Thomas, statues by: of Andrew, 41 ; 
Quincy, 49; Washington, 77; Sumner, 
77; birthplace, 68; group by, 94. 

Ballou Hall, Tufts College, 144. 

Ballou, Hosea, mon't, Mt. Auburn, ic 8. 

Bancroft, George, 11. 

Banks, Nathaniel Prentiss, 127. 

Banner, Peter, architect, 29. 

Baptist Church, present First, Boston, 57. 

Baptist Church, Cambiidge, 99. 

Baptist Church, Newton (Renter, 125. 

Baptist meetinghouse, site of first, 56, 57. 

Barnum Museum, Tufts College, 144. 

Barre, Col. Isaac, 12. 

Barricade, site, 10. 

Bartholdi, architect, 80. 

Bartol, Cyrus A., home, 72 ; pulpit, 74. . 

Bates, Joshua, S3. 

Battle fiags, 42. 

Battle ground, Concord, 158. 

Battle of Lexington, painting, 155. 

Bay Psalm-book, loS 

Bay State Road, 92. 

Beach Bluff, 160. 

Beachmont, 141, 142. 

Beacon, on Beacon Hill, 40, 41. 

Beacon Hill, original, i, 68. 

Beacon Hill Reservoir, 69. 

Beacon Street, 39, 45, 68, 80. 

Beacon Street Mall illustrated, 31. 



177 



178 



INDEX 



Reaver Brook and Waverley Oaks, 149. 

Beck Hall, Cambridge, qq. 

Bedford Street, Lexington, 155. 

Beethoven, statue of, 82. 

Belcher, Gov. Jonathan, 25; estate, 132. 

Belcher milestones, 132. 

Belknap, Rev. Jeremy, tomb, 26, 52. 

Belknap .Street (now Joy Street), 69. 

Bell Alley (part of Prince Street), 59. 

Bellingham, Gov. Richard, 21, 26. 

Belmont Square, East Boston, 94. 

Bennington, trophies captured at, 44. 

Berkeley Temple, Boston, 93. 

Bethel, Father Taylor's, 59. 

Beverly, 161. 

Billings, Hammatt, architect, 122, 16.S, 169. 

Bishop, Bridget, death warrant, 165. 

Bishop house, Salem, 155. 

Bishop's Palace, Cambridge, 109. 

Black Horse Lane, 57. 

Black Horse Tavern, 152. 

Blackstone Street, 56. 

Blake, Francis, estate, 117. 

Blaxton, Rev. William, pioneer, i, 68. 

Blaxton's spring, 70, 71. 

Blockade of Boston, the, farce, 14. 

Blue Ball, Sign of the, 55. 

Blue Hill Parkway, 134. 

Blue Hills Reservation, 3, 131, 133, 148. 

Board of Trade Building, Boston, 11. 

Bolton, Charles Knowles, 47. 

Booth, Edwin, home of, 72; grave of, loS. 

Boston, founded, i ; incorporated, 2 ; pop- 
ulation, 3; Postal District of, 3; Post 
Office Department, 3. 

Boston American Baseball Club, iiu. 

Boston Art Clubhouse, 81. 

Boston Athenseum, 46, 47. 

Boston Athletic Association, 116. 

Boston Basin, 3. 

Boston Canoe Club, 116. 

Boston City Hospital, 93. 

Boston City Parks System, 64, 146-148. 

Boston College, 93. 

Boston Common, surroundings, 31-34; 
old print of, 45 ; 146. 

Boston, frigate, site of shipyard, 64. 

Boston Massacre, site, 5, 17; graves of 
victims, 26, 28, 51. 

Boston Medical Library, 91. 

Boston Museum, site, 91 ; picture of, 21. 

Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 46, 85, 86. 

Boston pier, original, 10. 

Boston Sconce (South Battery), 10. 

Boston Society of Natural History, 89. 

" Boston Stone, 1737," 56. 

Boston Street, Salem, 166. 

Boston Symphony Orchestra, 30. 

Boston Tea Party, 16, 51. See also Tea 
Party Wharf. 

Boston Theater, 34. 

Boston University, 47. 

Bostonian .Society, 9. 

Bosworth Street, Boston, 25. 



Bow .Street, Cambridge, 109. 

Bovvdi.ch, Nathaniel, 108. 

BoAdoin, Gov. James, 17; tomb, 26. 

Bowlder (Lexington), 155. 

Boylston, Dr. Zabdiel, 112. 

Boylston house, Brookline, 113. 

Boylston Street, Brookline, in. 

Boylston, Ward Nicholas, 103. 

Brackett, Walter ^L, 9. 

Bradford, Gov. William, site of house, 
Plymouth, 169; monument to, 170. 

Bradford, Maj. John, house, Kingston, 168. 

Bradford Manuscript, 43, 51, 168. 

Bradstreet, Simon, 162; grave, 163. 

Braintree, 2. 

Brattle Square Church, 79; site, 17; cannon 
ball, 92. 

Brattle Street, Boston, 16, 17. 

Brattle Street, Cambridge, 107. 

Brattle, Thomas, Jr., 23. 

Brattle, Thomas, Sr., tomb, 23. 

Brazer's Building, 5. 

Brazier's Inn (later Hancock Tavern), 15. 

Brazier, Madam, 15. 

Breed's Hill, site of Bunker Hill Monu- 
ment, 16. 

Breed's Island, 2, 141. 

Brewster, Elder, 168. 

Brick Meetinghouse, Boston, 6. 

Bridge, John, statue of, 105. 

Bridge, Rev. Thomas, 22. 

Brighani, Charles E., 40. 

Brighton District, Boston, 3, 97. 

Brimstone Corner, 29. 

British Coffee House, 7. 

Broad Street, Salem, 166. 

Broad's Hill, Natick, 123. 

Brook Farm, 97. 

Brooklawn, 126. 

Brookline, 2, 109-115. 

Brookline Reservoir, 112. 

Brooks, Phillips, 48 ; rector of Trinity 
Church, 87; grave, 108. 

Brooks, Richard F., 77. 

Brunswick Hotel, 81. 

Bryant, J. G. F., 40. 

Buckman Tavern, Lexington, 155. 

Bulfinch, Charles, architect, 23; designer of 
" Bulfinch P>ont," 12, 40, 41, 43, 60, 74, 
103. 

Bulkeley, Peter, 158. 

Bunch-of-Grapes Tavern, 6, 7. 

Bunker Hill, 68. 

Bunker Hill Monument, 65 ; description, 
66-68; Association, 44, 67. 

Burgoyne, Gen. John, 14, 51, 109, 127. 

Burial Hill, Plymouth, 169. 

Burlingame, Anson, portrait, 13 ; monu- 
ment, Mt. Auburn, 108. 

Burnet, Gov., 25. 

Burns, Anthony, meeting against rendition 
of, 15 ; riot over, 19. 

Burying ground, Arlington, 153 ; Milton, 
132 ; Quincy, 135; Salem (Broad Street) 



INDEX 



179 



166, (Charter Street) 163; Watertown, 
129; ancient Town, Brookline, 112; Ye 
Old, Lexington, 155. 

Burying Hill, Marshfield, 168. 

Business Quarter, Boston, 3. 

Bussey Park, 146. 

Buttrick, Maj. John, memorial, 42; grave, 

Byles, Rev. Mather, 34. 
Bynner, Edwin L., 59. 

Cabot house, Salem, 166. 

Cadet Armory, Salem, 162. 

Cambridge, 98-109. 

Cambridge Common, 105. 

Cambridgeport, qS. 

Camp Hill, East Boston, 94. 

Caner, Mr., rector of King's Chapel, 24. 

Cape Ann, 3. 

Capen, E. H., Pres. Tufts College, 144. 

Capen, Hopestill, 56. 

Captain's Hill, Duxbury, 168. 

"Careswell," Marshfield, 168. 

Carey PubHc Library, Lexington, 155. 

Cass, Col. Thomas, statue of, 77. 

Castle Island, 147. 

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, Boston, 93. 

Cattle Market, Watertown, 128. 

Central Burying Ground, Boston, 34. 

Central Church, Boston, 79. 

Central District, Boston, 3, 4. 

Central Hill, Somerville, 143. 

Centry Hill, 41. 

Chamber of Commerce, 11. 

Chandler's Pond, 115, 119. 

Change (formerly Flagg) Alley, 15. 

Channing, William Ellery, Boston pulpit, 

53 ; home, 70 ; statue of, 77 ; monument, 

Mt. Auburn, 108. 
Charles River banks, 149. 
Charles River village, 123. 
Charles Street, 72, 73. 
Charles Street Jail, 73. 
Charlesbank, 73, 148. 
Charlesgate, 92. 
Charlestown, first settlement of, i, 66; 

annexed to Boston, 2, 3, 65-68. 
Charlestown Bridge, 57. 
Charlestown ferry, 57. 
Charlestown Heights, 147. 
Charter Street, Boston, 57, 64. 
Charter Street, Salem, 163. 
Cheapside (subsequently Cornhill), 16. 
Checkley tomb, 27. 
Chelsea, 2, 142, 143. 
Cheney estate, 121. 
Cherrv Street, Cambridgeport, 99. 
Chestnut Hill Park, 148. 
Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 114. 
Chestnut Street, Boston, 72. 
Chestnut Street, Salem, 165. 
Cheverus, John, 15. 
Chickatawbut Hill, 133. 
Chickering Hall, 90. 



Child, Lydia Maria, 59. 

Child, Tom, 56. 

Chilton, Mary, 23. 

Choate, Rufus, portrait, 13; statue, 20. 

Christ Church, Boston, 59-61. 

Christ Church, Cambridge, 106. 

Christ Church burial ground. Brain tree, 

136. 
Church, Benjamin, 23. 
Church of England established in the 

Colony, 24. 
Church of the Advent, Boston, 73. 
Church of the Disciples, Boston, 94. 
Church of the Immaculate Conception, 

Boston, 93. 
Churches, convenient, in Boston, ix, x. 
City Hall, Boston, 3, 48, 49; Cambridge, 

99; Newton, 118; Quincy, 135; Salem, 

166; Somerville, 144. 
City Point, South Boston, 95. 
City Square, Charlestown, 66. 
Claflin estate, 126. 
Claflin School, Newtonville, 126. 
Clarendon Street Baptist Church, Boston, 

94. 
Clark- Frankland mansion, site of, 59. 
Clark house, Brookline, 112. 
Clarke, James Freeman, 48; note from 

Hawthorne to, 71, 94. 
Clarke, Jonas, Lexington, 155. 
Clifton Heights, 150. 
Clough, George A., architect, 20. 
Clyde Park, 113. 
Cockerel (formerly New Brick) Church, 

Boston, 58. 
Cohasset, 167. 
Cole's Hill, Plymouth, 169. 
College Hill, Medford, 144. 
College of Pharmacy, Boston, 89. 
College Settlement, Boston, 94. 
Collins house, Danvers, 161. 
Colonial Club, Cambridge, loo. 
Colonial prison, Boston, 19. 
Colonial Theater, Boston, 34. 
Columbus Avenue, 94. 
Columbus statues: Louisburg Square, 70; 

Cathedral grounds, 93. 
Committee of Correspondence, Boston, 14. 
Commonwealth Avenue, 74 ; statues in, 

78, 79, 146. 
Commonwealth Avenue Parkway, 146. 
Concord, 156-159; routes to, 152; map of, 

156. 
Concord Antiquarian vSociety, 156. 
Concord Reformatory, 159. 
Concord schools, 159. 
Congregational House, present, 45, 46; old, 

47- 

Congress Street, Boston, former, 4 ; pres- 
ent, 46. 

Constitution, timber sought for, 139. 

Constitution Wharf, Boston, 64. 

Continental forts, sites of, Somerville, 143, 
144. 



i8o 



INDEX 



Conway, Field Marshal, 12. 

Coolidge, John, gift of descendants of, to 

Watertown, 129. 
Coolidge, T. Jefferson, 104. 
Cooper's Tavern, site, 152. 
Copley, John Singleton, portraits by, 13, 

38; site of house, 39; estate, 68, 86; 

sometime home of, at Salem, 166. 
Copley Square, car lines passing through, 

vi; surroundings, 80. 
Copley Square Hotel, 81. 
Copp, William Igave name to Copp's Hill), 

62, 64. 
Copp's Hill, 59-65. 
Copp's Hill Burying Ground, 61-64. 
Copp's Hill Terrace, 64, 147. 
Corey, Giles, " witchcraft" victim, Salem, 

164. 
Corey Hill, Brookline, 114. 
Corinthian Yacht Clubhouse, 160. 
Corn Court, 15. 
Cornhill, 16. 
Corwin, George, sheriff, 162 ; witchcraft 

memorials of, Salem, 165 ; grave, 166. 
Corwin, Judge Jonathan, 165. 
Cottage Hill, Winthrop, 139. 
Cotton Hill, Boston, site, 20. 
Cotton, Rev. John, preacher, 5: estate, 

20; tomb, 22 ; original farm, 114. 
Country Club, Brookline, 113. 
County Jail, Boston, 73 ; Salem, 160. 
Court House of 1692, Salem, 165. 
Court House, present, Boston, 20; Ded- 

ham, 138; Plymouth, 169; Salem, 160. 
Court Park, Winthrop, 140. 
Court Street, 16, 19. 

Cow (or Horse) Pond, Boston Common, 33. 
Craddock house, Medford, 145. 
Cradle of American Liberty, 14. 
Cranch, Richard, 166. 
Crane Public Library, Quincy, 135. 
Crawford, Thomas, statues by, of Bee- 
thoven, 82 ; James Otis, 108 ; head of, 86. 
Creek Lane, 56. 
Crescent Beach, 141. 
Crispus Attacks Monument, 33. 
Crystal I>ake, Newton, 126. 
Cummings & Sears, architects, 88. 
Gushing, Lieut. Gov. Thomas, tomb of, 26. 
Cushman, Charlotte, 25; birthplace, 58; 

monument, Mt. Auburn, loS. 
Cushmans, graves of the, Plymouth, 170. 
Cushman School, Boston, 58. 
Custom House, 13oston, 11 ; Salem, 160, 

163. 

Daille, Rev. Pierre, 26. 

Dana Hall School, Wellesley, 120. 

Dana, Richard H., Sr., 72. 

Dana, Richard H., Jr., 107. 

Dan vers, 161. 

Dasset Alley (now Franklin Avenue), 17. 

Davenport, Rev. John, tomb of, 22. 

Davis, Capt. Isaac, 42. 



Davis Square, West Somerville, 144. 

Dawes, Col. Thomas, monument to, 22. 

Daye, Stephen, first printer, 108. 

Dedham, 137-139. 

Dedham Historical Society, 137-139. 

Deland, Margaret, homes of, 70, 72. 

Denison House, Boston, 94. 

Derby Street, Salem, 163. 

Deshon, Moses, artisan, 9, 14. 

D'Estaing, allusion to, 56. 

Devens, Maj. Gen. Charles, statue of, 44. 

Dexter, Mrs. Wirt, gate given to Harvard 

by, 100. 
Dickens, Charles, in Boston, 25. 
Diocesan House, 69. 
Dock Square, 4, 16. 
Dorchester District, i, 3, 97. 
Dorchester Heights, 95. 
Dorchester Neck, 2. 
Dorchester Park, 147. 
Dorchesterway, 147. 
Doublet Hill, Weston, 117. 
Downing-Bradstreet house, Salem, 162. 
Dowse Library, 91. 
Drowne, "Deacon" Shem, artificer, 13, 

52, 58; grave of, 62. 
Dudley, Gov. Joseph, 25 ; milestones set 

up by, 106. 
Dudley, Thomas, 108. 
Dudleys, tomb of the, 96. 
Duel, first fought in Boston, 7. 
Dummer, Gov. William, 26. 
Dunster, Henry, 6. 
Dunster Street, Cambridge, 108. 
Durant, Henry F., Wellesley College, 122. 
Durant, Pauline A. F., 122. 
Duxbury, 16S. 

East Boston, 2, 3, 94. 

Eastern Yacht Clubhouse, 160. 

East India Marine Building, Salem, 162. 

East Lexington, 153. 

East .Street, Dedham, 13S. 

Echo Bridge, 124, 149. 

Edward Everett Square, Dorchester, 75. 

Egg Rock, off Nahant, 159. 

Elevated Road, time tables furnished by, 

vii; lessee of Subway, 36; map of, 37. 
Eliot, Andrew, minister of the New North 

Church, 59, 60. 
Eliot, President Chas. W., inscriptions on 

monuments by, 24, 32, 37 ; pupil of Latin 

School, 48; residence, 100. 
Eliot, John, son of Andrew, minister, 60 ; 

site of church of, Roxbury, 95 ; tomb, 96. 
Eliot, John, the "apostle," 5. 
Eliot Church, South Natick, 123. 
Eliot Monument, Newton, 118; South 

Natick, 123. 
Eliot Oak, South Natick, 123. 
Eliot School, North End, 57. 
Elliott, John, 83. 

Elmwood Avenue, Cambridge, 107. 
Emancipation Group, Park Square, 94. 



INDEX 



i8: 



Emerson, Dr. Edward, 159. 

Emerson, Ellen, 15ft. 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo, pupil of Latin 
School, 48, 51; minister Second Church, 
Boston, 5S, 88, 100; home of, Concoid, 
156; in Old Manse, 157; grave, 157. 

Emerson, Rev. William, 46, 79. 

Emerson house, Lexington-, 156. 

Emmanuel Church, 78. 

Endicott, (iov. John, 1 ; site of house, 
Boston, 20; site of house, Salem, 166; 
portraits, 166. 

Endicott, William C, 165. 

English High School, Boston, 93 ; Cam- 
bridge, 99; Somerville, 144. 

Episcopal Church Association, 6g. 

Episcopal church, second, established, 60. 

Episcopal Theological School, 107. 

Ericson, Leif, statue, 79 ; supposed site of 
house, 107, 108. 

Essex Institute, Salem, 161, 162. 

Essex Street, Salem, 162, 165. 

Ether Monument, 74, 76. 

Eustis, Gov. William, 155. 

Everett, Edward, portrait, 13; statue, 41, 
76, 45, 48, 107; grave of, Mt. Auburn, 
108. 

Evergreen Cemetery, Brookline, 115. 

Every Day Church, 94. 

Exchange Building, 11. 

Exchange Street, former, 4. 

Excursions and tours, 171-174. 

Exeter Street, 89. 

Eye and Ear Infirmary, 73. 

Fairbanks house, Dedham, 13S. 

Faneuil, Peter, 8, 12, 14; successors, 14; 

mansion, 21 ; tomb, 26. 
Faneuil Hall, location, 4, 11 ; description, 

12, 13; the second, 14; lottery for, 14; 

surroundings, 15. 
Faneuil Hall Market, 16. 
Faneuil Hall Square, 15 ; west side, 16. 
Farnsworth, Isaac D., gift to Wellesley 

College, 122. 
Farragut, Admiral, statue of, 95. 
Fay House, Cambridge, 106. 
Federal Building, 52, 53. 
Federal Street, 53. 
Federal Street, Salem, 161, 164. 
Federal Street Church, 53. 
Federal Street Theater, 53. 
Fellsmere, 145. 
Fellsway, 141. 

Felton, President, sometime home of, 100. 
Fens, 91, 92, no, 146. 
Fields, James T., " Curtained Corner " of, 

49; home of, 73. 
Fields, Mrs. Annie, 73. 
First Baptist Church (present), 17, 79 ; 

first meetinghouse, site of, 56. 
First Meetinghouse, Salem, 162. 
First Parish Church, Brookline, 112. 
First Parish Church, Quincy, 135. 



I'irst Parish meetinghouse, Watertown, 

First Religious Society in Roxbury, 95. 

First (afterward North) Street, 57. 

Flagg (afterward Change) Alley, 15. 

Fogg Art Museum, Harvard Univ., 101. 

Follen Chur.h, East Lexington, 153. 

" Foot of tiie Rocks," Arlington, 153. 

Forbes family estates, Milton, 132. 

Forest Hills Cemetery, 97. 

Forest Street, Medford, 145. 

Fort Banks, Winthrop, 140. 

Fort Heath, Winthrop, 140. 

Fort Hill Square, 53. 

Fort Independence, 147. 

Fort Sewall, Marblehead, 160. 

Forts : Boston, 147; Revolutionary, Rox- 
bury, 95 ; Marblehead, 160; first, at Ply- 
mouth, 170; Winthrop, 140. 

Foster, John, 64, 77. 

Foster Lane, 64. 

Fowle, Marshall, 128. 

Frankland, Sir Harry, 59. 

Franklin, Benjamin, printing office, work 
place of, 17 ; mon't to parents of, 27 ; at 
Latin School, 48 ; statue, 48 ; birthplace, 
52 ; place of baptism, 52 ; boyhood home, 
55 ; origin of ballad by, 63 ; gift of, to 
Harvard, 104. 

Franklin, James, brother of Benjamin, 17. 

FrankHn, Josiah, dwelling and shop, 55 ; 
tomb of Franklui and his wife, 26 ; mon- 
ument, 28. 

Franklin Avenue, 16, 17. 

Franklin Field, 147. 

Franklin Park, 9O, 147. 

Free Masons' hall, first, 55. 

Freeman, Rev. James, King's Chapel, 24. 

French, Daniel C, statues by: Rufus 
Choate, 20; Maj. Gen. Hooker, 44; 
John Harvard, 104; the Minuteman, 
158; monument to Mihnore, 97. 

French's redoubt, 143. 

Frog Pond, Boston Common, 32, 33. 

Frothingham, Richard, 61. 

Fuller, Margaret, birthplace, 99; monu- 
ment, Mt. Auburn, 108. 

Gage, Gen. Thomas, 61, 104; headquarters, 
Danvers, 161. 

Gallop, Capt. John, 62. 

Gallop's Island, 62. 

Galloupe house, 62. 

Gallows Hill, Salem, 160, 166. 

Gardner, Mrs. John L., art museum, m, 
112. 

Gardner Circle, Brookline, 114. 

Gardner family tomb, BrookHne, 112. 

Garnsey, Elmer E., 83. 

Garrison, Wm. Lloyd, first public anti- 
slavery address, 29; first office of the 
Liberator, 53 ; mobbing of, 53 ; statue, 
78; home, 96 ; tomb, 97. 

General Theological Library, 69. 



:82 



INDEX 



Gerrish's, Col., regiment (Revolution), 142. 

Gerry, Elbridge, at Black Horse Tav- 
ern, 152. 

Gilbert, John, tomb, 97. 

Gilman, Rev. Samuel, author of " Fair 
Harvard," 106. 

Ginn & Company, publishing house, 37, 
38, 47; Athenseum Press, 98. 

Girls' High School, 93. 

Gloucester, 161, 171. 

Glover, Gen. John, statue of, 78. 

Cioddard Chapel, Tufts College, 144. 

(ioddard Gymnasium, Tufts College, 144. 

(ioddard house, Brookline, 113. 

(ioffe, regicide, log. 

Goodell, Abner C, Salem, 164. 

Goose, Mary, 29. 

Gore, Gov. Christopher, tomb, 26; gift of 
Gore Hall, Harvard, 100; house, 128. 

Gould, Helen M., gift to Wellesley Col- 
lege, 122. 

(iould, Marshall S. and Thomas R., statu 
of Bridge by, 105. 

Gould, Thomas R., statues by: Hancock 
(Lexington), 155; Andrew, 167; (with 
Marshall S. Gould), Bridge (Cambridge) 
105. 

Governor Gore house, Waltham, 128. 

Governor Hutchinson Field, Milton, 151. 

Governor's Alley (Province Street), 52. 

Grammar school, Boston, first, 60. 

Granary, the town, 30. 

Granary Burying Ground, site, 8, 25, 26. 

Cirand Lodge of Mass., 35; of the Prov- 
ince, first, 55. 

Granite Temple, Quincy, 135. 

Gray, Francis C, gift of Gray's Hall to 
Harvard, 103. 

Gray, Judge Horace, house of, 70. 

Great Blue Kill Observatory, 133. 

Great Cove, 4, 10. 

Great Elm, Boston Common, 32. 

Great Fire of 1711, 6, 8; of 1760, 7; of 
1872, 53, 87. 

fireat Head, Winthrop, 140. 

" Great House" of the governor, Charles- 
town, 66. 

Greater Boston, 3. 

Green, Dr. .Samuel A., 92. 

(ireen Dragon Tavern, site, 55. 

Green Lane (now .Salem Street), 56. 

Greenough, Richard, statue of Franklin 
by, 4S ; statue of Winthrop by, 108 ; 
Bunker Hill Monument devised by, 67. 

Cireenwood, Francis W. P., grave of, 62. 

Griffin's Wharf, scene of Boston Tea 
Party, ■;4. 

Griffith, Vincent C, 77. 

Grover's Cliff, Winthrop, 140. 

Hale, Edward Everett, birthplace, 25 ; 
homes, 47, 96; at Latin School, 48; pul- 
pit, 8q. 

Hale, Nathan, 47. 



Hamilton, Alexander, statue of, 78. 

Hamilton Place, 30. 

Hancock, Ebenezer, 56. 

Hancock, Lydia, 39. 

Hancock, Rev. John, grandfather of Gov. 
Hancock, tomb in Lexington, 155. 

Hancock, Rev. John, 2d (father of (iov. 
Hancock, Sr.), grave in Quincy, 135. 

Hancock, Gov. John, 13 ; store, 15, 17 ; 
tomb, 26, 27, 28; monument, 27, 28; 
mansion, 37-39, 47; at Latin School, 48; 
supposed house of, at Point Shirley, 139 ; 
at Lexington, 155 ; statue, 155. 

Hancock, Thomas, 39. 

Hancock Avenue, 37. 

Hancock-Clarke house, Lexington, 155. 

Hancocli estate, 40. 

Hancock Hill, Milton, 133. 

Hancock house, 37-39, 47. 

Hancock monument, 27, 28. 

Hancock Row, Boston, 56. 

Hancock Street, Boston, 6g ; Quincy, 136 ; 
Lexington, 155. 

Hancock Tavern, 15. 

Hancock's Wharf, 65. 

Handel and Haydn Society, 90. 

Harrington, Jonathan, Sr., East Lexing- 
ton, 153. 

Harrington, Jonathan, fifer to the minute- 
men, Lexington, 153 ; a minuteman 
killed at Lexington, 155. 

Harrington houses. East Lexington, 153 ; 
Lexington, 155. 

Harrison, Peter, architect: King's Chapel, 
23 ; Christ Church, Cambridge, 106. 

Hart's Hill, Wakefield, 150. 

Hartt, F.dmund, grave of, 62, 64. 

Harvard, John, monument, 66; site of 
dwelling of, 66; supposed place of grave, 
66; statue, 104. 

Harvard Bridge, 109. 

Harvard Cooperative Association, 103. 

Harvard Dental School, 74. 

Harvard Library, 100. 

Harvard Medical School, 74, 81. 

Harvard Musical Association, 30, 72. 

Harvard Observatory, 100, 108. 

Harvard Union, 100. 

Harvard University, 99-108; Harvard 
Union, 100 ; gates, 100, 10 1 ; library, 100 ; 
Sever Hall, loi ; Appleton Chapel, loi ; 
Fogg Art Museum, loi ; Phillips Brooks 
House, loi ; dormitories, 101-103 ; 
Hemenway Gymnasium, /03 ; Lawrence 
Scientific School, 103 ; Laboratory, 104 ; 
Memorial Hall, 104 ; Robinson Hall, 
104; old gymnasium, 104; Semitic Mu- 
seum, 104 ; Divinity Hall, 104 ; Peabody 
Museum, 104 ; Agassiz Museum, 104 ; 
Botanical Museum, 104 ; Museum of 
Comparative Zoology, 104 ; Geological 
Museum, 104; Law School, 104; Rad- 
cliffe College, 106 ; Soldier's Field, 107; 
Observatory, 108; Botanic Gardens, 108 



INDEX 



183 



Hathorne, Judge, of the " witchcraft 

court," Salem, 163. 
Haven, Judge Samuel, house, Dedham, 138. 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel, customs otificer, 
Boston, 11; the prison in the "Scarlet 
Letter," 19; scene of the " Legends of 
the Province House," 52 ; l.irihplace, 
Salem, 61 ; note from, to J. F. Clarke, 
71 ; later homes in Salem, 163, 164, 165 ; 
mementos of, Salem, 163 ; in (_)id 
Manse, and the Wayside, Concord, 157; 
grave, 157. 
Hawihorne's Walk, Concord, 157. 
Haymarket Theater, site, 34. 
Healy, G. P. A., 12. 
Hemenway, Augustus, gift of, to Harvard, 

103. 
Hemenway, Mrs. Mary, 51. 
Hemenway Street, qi. 
Hemlock Gorge, Newton Upper Falls, 

124 ; Reservation, 149. 
Henchman, Daniel, bookshop of, 5. 
Henry L. Pierce Building, Sci. 
Hibbens, Anne, 32. 

Hizginson, Henry L., patron of Boston 
Symphony Orchestra, 30; one of the 
donors of Harvard Union, 100; donor 
of Soldier's Field to Harvard, 107. 
Higginson, Thomas W., ig. 
High School, Lexington, 154; Milton, 133; 
Newtonville, 126; Salem, 16G; Somer- 
ville, 144; Wellesley, 120. 
High Street, Boston, the original, 5 ; Ded- 
ham, 137, 138. 
Highland Park, 95. 
Highand Street, 95. 
Highland ville, 123. 
Hillard, George S., homes of, 71. 
Hillside Burying Ground, Concord, 157. 
Hingham, 167. 170. 

Hoar, E. R., Judge, 157; birthplace, 158. 
Hoar, George F., 43; birthplace, 158. 
Hoar, Leonard, tomb of, 135. 
Hoar family, monuments. Concord, 157; 

homes, Concord, 158. 
Hog (Breed's) Island, 2. 
Holbrook mansion, Milton, 132. 
Holden, Madame, gift of, to Harvard, loi. 
Hollis, Thomas, gift of, to Harvard, loi. 
Hollis Street Church, 34; united with 

South Congregational, 89. 
Hollis Street Theater, 34. 
Holmes, Oliver Wendell, quoted, 17, 29 ; 
memorial tablet in King's Chapel, 24; 
homes of, 25, 38, 47, 51, 73, 80; me- 
mentos of, in Boston Medical Library, 
91; birthplace, 105; grave, 108. 
Holmes Hall, Boston Medical Library, 91. 
Homeopathic Hospital, 47, 93. 
Hooker, Maj. Gen. Joseph, statue of, 44. 
Hooper house, Danvers, 161. 
Horse (or Cow) Pond, Boston Common, 33. 
Horsford, Eben N., Norse memorials by, 
108, 117, 126, 129. 



Horticultural Hall, 90. 

Hotels, principal, of Boston, vii. 

Houdon, Jean Antoine, sculptor, 61. 

Hough's Neck, 171. 

Hougliton, Mifflin & Co., publishing 

house of, 45. 
House of the Good Shepherd, m. 
" House of the Seven Gables," 164. 
Howard S.reet Salem. 164. 
Howe, Julia Ward, homes of, 72,^0. 
Howe, Samuel G., lounder of Perkins 

Ins it itioii for the blind, 95; grave, 108. 
Howells, William D., 71. 
Howland, John, grave, Plymouth, 170. 
Hull, .70. 
Hull, John, the " mint master," 21 ; tomb, 

27,61. 
Hull, Maj. Gen. William, grave, Newton, 

125; former estate, 126. 
Hull Street, origin of name, 61. 
Hunniwell, H. Hollis, gifts to Wellesley, 

120; estate, 121. 
Huntington Avenue, 75. 
Huniington Avenue station, 81. 
Huntington Hall, 8g. 
Huichinson, Anne, 50. 
Hutchinson, Gov. Thomas, bir.hplace, 58, 

59; seat in Milton, 131. 
Hu chinson tomb (Copp's Hill), desecra- 
tion of, 63. 

Important points of interest in Boston, 

175- 
Indian of old Province House, 92. 
Indian Bible, Eliot's, 108. 
Independence Monument (first\ 41. 
Information Bureaus at railroad stations, 

vii. 
Ingersoll family, home, Salem, 164. 
Institute of Technology, the Mass., Si ; 

buildings, 88. 
Institution Hill, Newton, 125. 
Isabella Stuart Gardner, Museum of Arts, 



Jack, John, slave, Concord, 157. 
Jackson, Brig. Gen. Michael, grave of, 125. 
Jacob Sleeper Hall. See Boston Univer- 
sity. 
Jamaica Park, 146. 
Jamaica Plain, 97. 
Jamaica way, 146. 
Jeffries, B. Joy, 72. 
Jeffries Point, East Boston, 139. 
Jerusalem Road, Cohasset, 167. 
Jewett, Sarah Orne, home of, 73. 
Johnson, Ellen C, memorial to, 91. 
Johnson, Isaac, colonist, i. 
Joy Street (formerly Belknap Street), 69. 
Judson, Adoniram, grave of, 170. 
Julien, M., grave of, 34. 

Keayne, Capt. Robert, site of house of, 5 ; 
will, 10. 



i84 



INDEX 



Keith's Theater, 34. 
Kemble, Fanny, 25. 
Keyes, Judge, historic house of Concord, 

Kidd, Caot., in colonial prison, ig. 

Kidder, Henry P., estate, Milton, 132. 

Kilby Street, origin of name, 7. 

Kimball, Moses, 94. 

King (now State) Street, 7. 

King, Thomas Starr, 34. 

King's Beach and Lynn Shore Reservation, 

150, 160. 
King's Cliapel, description, 23, 24, 25, 48. 
King's Chapel Burying Ground, 21. 
Kingston, 16S. 

Kitson, H. H., sculptor, 95. 
Knox, Henry, bookshop of, 5, 13, 95. 
Kraus, Robert, sculptor, 33. 

La Farge, John, decorations by, 86. 
Lafayette, the Marquis de, 35, 43, 67; in 

Salem, 161. 
Lafayette Mall, 34. 
Lafresnr.ye Collection, 89. 
Lake, Capt. Thomas, 63. 
Lamb Tavern, 34. 
Lander, Gen. F. W., grave of, 166. 
Langdon, Samuel, at Latin School, 48. 
Lasell Seminary, 120. 
Lathrop, Rev. John, minister of Old North 

Church, prave of, 26 ; site of dwelling, 

58; portrait in Second Church, 88. 
La.in School, Boston. See Public Latin 

School. 
Latin School, Cambridge, 99; Roxbury, 

96; Salem, 166. 
Lawrence, Abbott, former residence, 45; 

gift to Harvard, 104. 
Lawrence schoolhouse, South Boston, 95. 
Lee, Gen. Charles, headquarters of, 144. 
Lee, Henry, 51; estate, Brookline, 113. 
Lee, Col. Jeremiah, at Black Horse 

Tavern, 152. 
Lee, Jesse, grave of, 62. 
Lee, Thomrs, gifts of, to city, 76, 78. 
Lefavour, Henry, 90. 

Leslie, Lieut. Col., at Salem Bridge, 165. 
Levcrett, Gov. John, site of house, 6; 

tomb, 23. 
Leverett, John (president of Harvard), at 

Latin School, 48. 
Leverett Park, 146. 
Leverett Pond, 11 1. 
Leverett's Lane, 4. 
Lewis's Wharf, 64, 65. 
Lexington, 154, 155; arms captured at, 44; 

routes to, 152; map, 154; Lexington 

Green, 154. 
Lexington Street, Lexington, 156. 
Leyden Street, Plymouth, 170. 
Liberator, first offices of, 53. 
Liberty Tree, 34. 
Liberty Tree Tavern, Boston, 35. 
Lind, Jenny, in Boston, 71. 



Lodge, Henry Cabot, former Boston home, 

70; at Nahant, 1^9. 
Long, John D., Hingham home of, 167. 
" Long Path," Holmes's, Boston Common, 

39- 
Long Wharf, 10. 

Longfellow, A. W., architect, loi. 
Longfellow, Alden & Harlow, architects, 

99. 
Longfellow, Alice, 107. 
Longfellow, H. W.,71; house, Cambridge, 

107; grave, icS. 
Longfellow house, Cambridp-e, 107. 
Loring, Judge, Winthrop estate, 140. 
Louisburg Square, 70, 71. 
Louis Philijjpe in Boston, 15. 
Love Lane (now Tileston Street), 60. 
Lovell, John, master Latin School, 14. 
Lowell, Augustus, estate, Brookline, 113. 
Lowell, Rev. Charles, pulpit, 74; grave, 

108. 
Lowell, James Russell, 33, 37, 51; home 

of, Cambridge, 107; .crave, 108. 
Lowell, Judge John, Winthrou estate, 140. 
Lowell, John, Jr., founder of Lowell Insti- 
tute, 89. 
I,owell, Percival, house of, 72. 
Lowell House, Cambridge, 107. 
Lowell Institute, 89. 
Lowell School of Practical Design, 89. 
Lowell Street, Concord, 158. 
Lyman, Arthur T., 147. 
Lyman, Theodore, estate, Brookline, 113. 
Lynde, Benjamin, ist and 2d, graves of, 

163. 
Lynn, 159. 

Lynn Shore Reservation, 150. 
Lynn Woods, 150. 

Mackerel Lane (now Kilby Street), 6, 7. 

McKim, Charles F., architect, 37, 102. 

McKim, Mead& White, architects, 85, 100. 

MacMonnics, Frederick, statue by, 82. 

Magazine Street, Cambridge, 99. 

Main Guardhouse (1768-1770), 5. 

Main Street, Medford, 145. 

IMajestic Theater, 34. 

Malcom, Capt. Daniel, gravestone of, 63. 

Mall Street, Salem, 164. 

Manchester-by-the-Sea, 161. 

Mann, Horace, statue of, 41. 

Manual Training School, Cambridge, 99. 

Marblehead, 160. 

Marblehead Neck, 160. 

Marine Biological Laboratory, Woods 
Hole, 173. 

Marine Hos ntal, Chelsea, 143. 

Marine Park, South Boston, 95, 147. 

Market Street (afterward Cornhill), 16. 

Marshall Fowle house, Watertown, 128. 

Marshall's Lane (no\v Street), 55, 56. 

Marshfield, 168. 

Masconomo House, Manchester-by-the- 
Sea, 161. 



INDEX 



Mason, Dr. Lowell, 29. 

Masonic Temple, 35. 

Massachusetts Afsociation of the New 
Jerusalem Church, 78. 

Massachusetts Avenue, extent of, 75 ; in 
Arlington, 152, 153. 

Massachusetts Charitable Eye and Ear 
Infirmary. See Eye and Ear Infirmary. 

Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Asso- 
ciation, 8r. 

Massachusetts College of Pharmacy. See 
College of Pharmacy. 

Massachusetts General Hospital, 73, 74. 

Massachuse ts His.orical Society, 16, 17; 
founder of, 26, 52 ; building, 91. 

Massachusetts Homeopathic Hospital. 
See Homeopathic Hospital. 

Massachusetts Horticultural Society. See 
Horticultural Society. 

Massachusetts Institute of Technology. 
See Institute of Technology. 

Massachusetts Normal Art School. See 
Normal Ait School. 

Alassachzisetts Spy, 56. 

Massacre of 1770, 7. 

Mather, Cot >n, at Latin School, 48; 
minister of the Old North Church, 58 ; 
tomb, 62, 88. 

Mather, Increase, site of house. North 
Square, 57; Hanover Street house, 60; 
tomb, 62, 142. 

Mather, Mrs. Increase, grave in Brook- 
line, 112. 

Mather, Nathaniel, grave in Salem, 163. 

Mather, Richard, tomb, in Dorchester, 97. 

Mather, Rev. Samuel, house, 59; tomb, 62. 

Ma'hcr-Eliot house, 60. 

Mathers, Church of the, 58. 

Mattapan, 134. 

Matthews, Nathan,giftof, to Harvard, 103. 

Matthews, Nathan, Jr., 36. 

Maugus Hill, Wellesley, 120. 

Maverick, Samuel, fortified house of, 94, 
M3- 

Mead, Edwin D., 5. 

Medford, 145. 

Meetinghouse Hill, Dorchester, 97. 

Memorial Fountain (Ellen C. Johnson), 91. 

Memorial Hall, Cambridge, 49 ; Dedham, 
137; Lexington, 155. 

Menotomy, early name of Arlington, 152. 

Merchants' Exchange, 11. 

Merchants Row, 7. 

" Merrymount," 136. 

Merwin, Henry C, house of, 72. 

Metropolitan District, cities and towns in, 
98. 

Metropolitan Sewerage District Depart- 
ment, 3. 

Metropolitan Svstem of Parks, 3, 148-151. 

Metropolitan Water Board, 3, 117. 

Metropolitan Water District, 3. 

Meyer, George von L., gift of, to Har- 
vard, 10 1. 



Middlesex Fells, 145, 149. 

Military Company of Massachusetts, 
first, 5. 

Milk Street, 52, 53. 

Mill Bridge, 56. 

Mill Creek (now Blackstone Street), 56. 

Mill Pond, filling, 41, 51, 56. 

Mill Street, Snlem, 166. 

Milmore, Martin, monuments by : in Bos- 
ton, 32; Charlestown, 65; Mt. AuLurn, 
108 ; statues by : in Boston, 78 ; Lexing- 
ton, 15s; tomb of, 97. 

Milton, 130-134. 

Milton Academy, 133. 

Milton Churches, 133. 

Milton Lower Mills, 130. 

Minuteman statue: Lexington, 155; Con- 
cord, 158. 

Misery Island, 160. 

Monument Street, Concord, 157. 

More, Richard, Mayflower passenger, 
grave of, 163. 

Morse Institute Library, Natick, 123. 

Morse, Rev. Jedidiah, 66. 

Morse, Samuel F. B., birthplace of, 66. 

Morse, Sidney H., sculptor, 88. 

Morton, Dr. W. T. G., monument to, 74. 

" Mother Brook," 137. 

Mother Goose, 29. 

Motley, John Lothrop, house of, 45 •, at 
Latin School, 48; boyhood home, 72. 

Moulson, Lady Anne, 106. 

Moulton's Point, 65. 

Mt. Auburn Cemetery, 108. 

Mt. Auburn Street, Cambridge, 107. 

Mt. Vernon Street, 47, 72. 

Mt. Wollaston, 136. 

Muddy River, 92, log. 

Munroe's Tavern, Lexington, 154. 

Murray, W. H. H., 31. 

Murray's Barracks, 17. 

Museum of Fine Arts. See Art Museum. 

Museum School of Drawing and Painting, 
86. 

Music Hall, old, 30. 

Myers, James J., 103. 

Myles, Rev. Samuel, 60. 

Mystic ponds, 145. 

Mystic River banks, 149. 

Mystic Street, Arlington, 152. 

Nahant, 159. 

Nantasket Beach Reservation, 148. 
Napoleon willow, 64. 
Natick, 123. 

National Monument, Plymouth, 168. 
Natural History Museum, 81, 89. 
Naval Hospital, Chelsea, 143. 
Navy Yard, Charlestown, 65. 
Needham, 123. 
Neponset River, 134. 
Neponset River banks, 148. 
New Brick (afterward Cockerel) Church, 
58. 



1 86 



INDEX 



New Church Union, 78. 
New England Children's Hospital, 91. 
New England Conservatory of Music, 90. 
New England Historic Genealogical Soci- 
ety, 47- 
New Jerusalem Church, headquarters, 78. 
New Old South Church, 87. 
Newman, Robert, site of home of, 61. 
Newspaper Row, 52. 
Newton Boat Club, 116. 
Newton Boulevard, 115, 116. 
Newton Cemetery, 125. 
Newton Center burying ground, 125. 
Newton Club, 126. 
Newton Highlands, 125. 
Newton Hospital, 120. 
Newton Lower Falls, 117, 120. 
Newton Theological Institution, 125. 
Newton Upper Falls, 124. 
Newtons, the, 116-119, 124-126. 
Nonantum, 119; present village, 126. 
Nook's Hill, South Boston, 95. 
Normal Art School, 89. 
Norse Memorials. See Horsford. 
North Battery ( Battery Wharf), 10, 64. 
North Bridge, Salem, 165. 
North Cambridge tablets, 152. 
North Church. See Old North Church. 
North Cove, 41. 

North End, 3, 4, 54-65; beach, 147. 
North End (afterward the Eliot) School, 57. 
North (jrove Street, 24. 
North Shore, 159-166. 
North Square, 57, 58. 
North Station, Boston, vii. 
North Street, 57. 
Norumbega Park, 116. 
Norumbega Tower, 117. 
Nourse, Rebecca, witchcraft victim, 161. 

Ocean Spray, 139. 

" Old Corner Bookstore," 49. 

Old Court House, 18, 19, 48. 

Old Manse, Concord, 157. 

OH North Bridge, Concord, 157, 158. 

Old North Church, 58, 61. 

Old Powder House, Somerville, 144. 

Old Ship Church, Hingham, 167. 

Old South Meetinghouse, 50, 51. 

Old State House, 4, 5, 8, 9. 

Old s'one monument, Lexington, 155. 

Old Town Dock, 15. 

"Oldtown Folks," scene of H. B. Stowe's, 

123. 
Olmsted, Frederick Law, 112. 
Orchard House, Concord, 156. 
O'Reilly, John Boyle, monument to, 92. 
Orient Heights, 141. 
Orne, Col. Azor, at Black Horse Tavern, 

152. 
Otis, James, 7; in Faneuil Hall, 14; tomb 

of, 26, 27 ; picture representing, 42 ; 

statue, 108. 
Otis Street, Milton, 132. 



Oxenbridge, Rev. John, tomb of, 22. 
Oxford Hoiel, 81. 

Paine, Robert Treat, 13 ; tomb of, 26 ; 

at Latin School, 48; portrait, 13. 
" Palisadoed " fort, first, Charlestown, 66. 
Parade Ground, Boston Common, 33. 
Parker, Capt. John, of the Lexington 

minutemen, 44, 155. 
Parker, Theodore, indicted, 19; pulpit, 

31, 44; statue, 96; birthplace, 156. 
Parker House, 25, 48. 
Parkman, Dr. George, 74. 
Parkman, Francis, houses of, 72, 78. 
Parkman, Samuel, 12, 13. 
Park Street, 44, 45. 
Park Street Church, 29, 30. 
Park Theater, 34. 
Parkways, 151. 
Peabody, 161. 
Peabody, Rev. A. P., sometime home of, 

100. 
Peabody, Dr. Nathaniel, house of, Salem, 

163. 
Peabody, Oliver W., estate, Milton, 132. 
Peabody, Sophia, 71, 163. 
Peabody Academy of Science, Salem, 161, 

162. 
Peabody Institute, Peabody. 161. 
Peabody Museum, Harvard, 104. 
Pearl Street, 46, 53. 
Pelham, Penelope, 21. 
Pemberton Square, 20, 21. 
Percy, Lord, 39, 144 ; at Lexington, 154. 
Perkins, Thomas Handasyd. 26. 
Perkins Institution for the Blind, 95. 
Phillips Brooks, house of, 87. 
Phillips Brooks House, Harv. Univ., loi. 
Phillips, Mayor John, 26. 
Phillips, Wendell, 13 ; first antislavcry 

speech of, 14; indicted, ig, 27; birth- 
place, 37, 69 ; grave, 132. 
Phipps, Spencer, 15. 
Phipps Street, Charlestown, burying 

ground, 65, 66. 
Phips, Sir William, 64. 
Pickering, John, Salem, 166. 
Pickering house, Salem, 161, 166. 
Pierpont, Rev. John, 34. 
Pilgrim documents, Plvmouth, i6g. 
Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, 169, 
Pillar of Liberty, Dedham, 138. 
Pillory, 4. 

Pinckney Street, 71. 
Pitcairn, Major, 57, 61, 155, 156. 
" Pitt's Head," Dedham, 13S. 
Pleasant Street, Arlington, tabkt, 153. 
Plummer Hall, Salem, 162. 
Plymouth, 167, 16S-170. 
Point of Pines, 141. 
Point Shirlev, 139. 
Pormont, Philemon, 48. 
Post Office, t;2. 
Post Office Square, 53. 



INDEX 



Powderhorn Hill, Chelsea, 142. 
Powers, Hiram, statue by, 41, 86. 
Pratt mansion, Chelsea, relic, 142. 
Prescott, Col. William, statue of, 66. 
Prescott, William H., tomb of, 35 : house, 

40; birthplace, 162; the "crossed 

swords,"' 92. 
Prince, Rev. Thomas, tomb, 26; librarv 

of, 51. 

Prince Street (formerly P)lack Horse 
Lane), 57. 

Prison Lane (afterward Court Street), ig. 

Prospect Hill, Somerville, 143 ; Waltham, 
118, 126.^ 

Province Court, 52. 

Province House, 52, 72. 

Province vStreet ((jovernor's Alley), 52. 

Public Garden, statues and monuments, 
76, 77, 146. 

Public Latin School, various sites, 48; 
distim;uished pupils of, 48, 93. 

Public Library, Boston, first provision for, 
10; site of first, 34; present, 82-85. 

Public Libraries: Arlington (Robbins 
Memorial), 153; Brookline, 114; Cam- 
bridge, 99; Lexington (Carey), 155; 
Concord, 158; Maiden (Converse Me- 
morial), 14s ; Milton, 133 ; Quincy, 135 ; 
Salem, 166; Somerville, 144; W'ater- 
town, 128; Wellesley, 120. 

Public parks, 146-151. 

Pudding Lane (now Devonshire Street), 5. 

Puling, John, 61. 

Piillen Poynt, 139. 

Punch-Bo vl Tavern, 11 1. 

Putnam, Gen. Israel, headquarters, Cam- 
bridge, 99; Somerville, 1.43; birthplace 
of, 161. 

Putnam, Gen. Rufus, 7. 

Puvis de Chavannes, decorations by, 82. 

Quaker meetinghouse, 17. 

Quakers, incarceration of, 19; execution, 32. 

Queen Street (afterward Court St.), 16, ig. 

(Quincy, 2, 134-136. 

Quincy, Dorothy, 135, 136. 

Quincy, Edmond, tomb of, 135 ; dwelling, 

136. 
Quincy, Josiah (first mayor of Quincy), 1 1 ; 

house of, 45; statues of, 49. 
Quincy, Josiah, Jr. (d. 1775), 135. 
Quincy Historical Society, 136 
Quincy House, 17. 
Quincy mansion house, Quincy, 136. 
Quincy Market House, 11. 
Quincy shore, 148. 
Quincy Street, Cambridge, 100. 

Radcliffe College, 106. 
Radical Club, 72. 
Randolph, 2. 
Randolph, Edward, 24. 
Ratcliffe, Rev. Robert, in Colonial prison, 
19; rector of King's Chapel, 24. 



Rawson, Edward, 26. 

Read, Benjamin T., gift to city by, 78. 

Read, Nathan, Salem, 162. 

Red Lion Inn, site of, 58. 

Reed, Capt. James, 155. 

Reformatory, Concord, 159. 

Reid, Robert, painter, 42. 

Reservoir Park, 115. 

Revere, 2, 141, 142. 

Revere, Paul, tomb of, 26, 55; North 
Square house, 57, 58; tablet in Christ 
Church, 60 ; site of last home, 64; foun- 
dry, 64, 131 ; at Lexington, 155. 

Revere Beach, 141 ; Reservation, 150. 

Revere House, 98. 

Revolutionary soldiers' graves, Newton, 
120. 

Rhodes, James Ford, home of, 80. 

Richardson, H. H., architect, 86, loi, 104, 
145. 

Ridge Hill Farm, 121. 

Rimmer, Dr. William, statue by, 78. 

Rindge, Frederick H., gifts of, to Cam- 
liridge, gg. 

I'^ising Sun Tavern, 131. 

Riverside, 116. 

Iviverside Avenue, Medford, 145. 

Riverside Recreation Ground, 1 16. 

Riverway, 146. 

Robbins Memorial Library, Arlington, 153. 

Rockport, 161. 

Rogers, Randall, statue by, 108. 

Rogers, William B., 88. 

Rogers Building, Inst, of Tech., 88, 89. 

Rogers Building, Washington Street, 5. 

Rogers Park, 148. 

Ropes, John C, house of, 72. 

Rotch and Tilden, architects, gg. 

Rowe's Wharf, i3g. 

Roxbury District, i, 2, 3, gs, g6. 

Roxbury Latin School, g6. 

Royal Customhouse, site of, 7. 

Royal Exchange Lane (now Exchange 
Street), 4. 

Royal Exchange Tavern, site of, 7. 

Royall mansion house, Medford, 145. 

Ruck house, Salem, 166. 

Rumford, Count (Benjamin Thompson), 
56. 

Rumney Marsh, 139. 

Russell, Jason, house of, Arlington, 153,. 

Russell estate, Milton, 131. 

St. Andrews Lodge, 55. 

St. Botolph Church, Boston, Eng., gift to 

Trinity Church, 86. 
St. Botolph Clubhouse, 78. 
St. Botolph Street, 89. 
St. Gaudens, Augustus, sculpture by, 37, 

82. 
St. Gaudens, Louis, sculpture by, 82. 
St. John Theological Seminary of, 115. 
St. Margaret's Hospital, 71. 
St. Paul's Church, 35. 



i88 



INDEX 



Salem, i ; points of interest, i6o, i6i ; 
itinerary, 162-166. 

Salem Street, 56. 

Sanborn, Frank B., house of, Concord, 158. 

Sandham, Henry, painting by, 155. 

Sargent, Charles S., estate, B ookline, 112. 

Sar^'cnt, John S., paintings by, 82. 

Sargent, Mrs. John T., museum of, 72. 

Saugus, 159. 

Swage, Maj. Thomas, tomb of, 23. 

Schlesinger estate, Brookline, 113. 

S:hool of Philosophy, Concord, 156. 

School Street, 48. 

Scituate, 167. 

Scolliy Square, vii. 

Second Church, Copley Square, 58, 88. 

Second Parish Church, Dorchester, 130. 

Second Regiment, M.V.M., 82. 

Second Universalist Church, 94. 

Senate, the Little, 14. 

Sergeant, Peter, 52. 

Sever, Mrs. Anne E. P., gift of, to Har- 
vard, lOI. 

Sewall, Chief Justice Samuel, diarist, 21 ; 
tomb of, 26; " confession of contrilion,"' 
52, 56. 61. 

Shaler, Professor, house of, 100. 

Shattuck, Samuel, and "The King's Mis- 
sive," 20. 

Shaw, Judge Lemuel, house of, 69. 

Shaw, Maj. Samuel, monument to, 63. 

Shaw estate, Wellesley, 121. 

Shaw Memorial, 37. 

Shawmutt, meaning of, i. 

Sheaf e, Jacob, tomb, 23. 

Shedrack, slave, 19. 

Shepard Memorial Church, Cambridge, 58. 

Shirley, Gov. William, 25. 

Shopping district, 35. 

Shrimpton's Lane, 4. 

Shute, Gov. Samuel, 25. 

Silver Lake, Nonantum, 126. 

Simmons, Edward, paintings by, 42. 

.Simmons Female College, 89. 

Simmons, John, founder Simmons Female 
College, 90. 

Sims, Thomas, slave, 19, 

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Concord, 157. 

Smibert, John, 13; portraits by, 38. 

Smith Court, antislaver}- landmark in, 69. 

Smith, Rev. Samuel F., author of "Amer- 
ica," 29; birthplace, 61. 

Soldiers' Home, Chelsea, 142. 

Soldiers' Monuments: Boston Common, 
32,65; Charlestown, 65; Chelsea, 143; 
Concord, 157; Natick, 123; Waltham, 
127; Watertown, 128. 

Somerset Club, 39. 

Somerset Hotel, 92. 

Somerset Street, 47. 

Somerville, 143, 144. 

Sons of Li 5erty, 5, 34. 

South Avenue, Weston, 117. 

South Battery (Rowe's Wharf), 10. 



South Boston, 2, 95. 

South Congregational Church, 89. 

South End, 92. 

South Shore, 167-170. 

South Station, Boston, vii. 

Spa/ks, Jared, 107. 

Spiritual Temple, 8g. 

Spring Hill, Somerville, 144. 

Spring Street, Lexington, 156. 

Spy Pond, 153. 

S amp Act, excitement over, 5, 14, 34, 58. 

Standish, Miles, cottage and grave, 168; 

sword, 169. 
Standish Monument, Duxbury, 168. 
Stark, Brig. Gen. John, gifts to State, 44, 

145. 
State House, 40-44 ; Annex, 39, 68. 
State Library, 43. 
State Street, 4, 5, 7. 
Stebbins, Emma, statue by, 41. 
Stimson, Frederick J., house of, Dedham, 

137- 
Stoddard hou^e, site of, 57. 
Stone, Dr. A. L., 30. 
Stone, Mrs. Valeiia, gift to Wellesley 

College, 122. 
Stony Brook, 118; Reservation, 97, 149. 
Storer collection of medical medal >, 91. 
Story, Judje Joseph, statue of, loS ; home 

of, Salem, 164. 
Story, William W., statues by, 66, 76, 

loS, 149; 1 irthplace, 164. 
Stoughton, Lieut. Gov. William, tomb of, 

97- 
Strandway, 147. 
Strong, Gov. Caleb, 13. 
Strong's Pond, 115, 119. 
Stuart, Gilbert, portraits bv, i^,, 46; grave, 

34, 166. 
Stuart, Jane, copy of Washington portrait 

by, 166. 
Sturgis & Cabot, architects, 85. 
Subway, 31 ; Park Street station, 35 ; ma;i 

of route, 36. 
" Suffolk Resolves " house, Milton, 130. 
Sullivan, Gov. James, tomb of, 26. 
Sumner, Charles, first antislavery speech 

of, 14, 30, 41 ; home of, 69 ; statues, 77, 

105 ; grave of, 108. 
Sumner, Gov. Increase, tomb of, 26. 
Swinnerton, Dr. John, grave of, Salem, 

163. 
Symphony Hall, 90; illustration, 9:. 

Taft's Hotel, Point Shirley, 139. 
Takawambait, Daniel, 123. 
Talleyrand in Boston, 15. 
Taylor, Rev. Edward T., 59. 
Tea Party Wharf, 53, 54. 
Technology Clubhouse, 89. 
Telegraph Hill, South Boston, 95. 
Ten Hills Farm, Winthrop's, 145. 
Thacher, Rear Admiral, tomb of, 97. 
Thacher, Rev. Peter, of Milton, 132, 134. 



INDEX 



89 



Thacher, Rev. Peter, oration of, 1776, izg; 

inscription to, 132. 
Thaclier, Rev. Thomas, tomb of, 23. 
Thatcher's Island, 161. 
Thayer, John E., 70. 

Thayer, NathiniLl, 70; gift to Harvard, 103. 
Theaters in Boston, viii, 34. 
Theodore Parker Church, West Roxbury, 

96. 
Thompson, Benjamin. See Rumford, 

Count. 
Thoreau, Henry D., grave at Concord, 157; 

house, 158; site of hut at Walden, 158. 
Ticknor, George, house of, 44. 
Ticknor & Fields, 49. 
Tileston, John, earlv schoolmaster, 57. 
Tory Row, Cambridge, 107. 
Touraine, Hotel, 34. 
Town Dock, 4, 16. 
Town Halls: B ookline, 114; Lexington, 

155, 156; Wellesley, 120, 121. 
Town Hill, Charlestown, 66. 
Town House, Boston, first. 8, 10; second, 

8 ; meeting place of first Episcopal 

church, 24 ; Milton, 133 ; Salem, 162. 
Train, Enoch, 70. 
Transcendental Club, 72. 
Tremont Row, 20. 
Tremont Street, 20; mall, 34. 
Tremont Temple, 25. 
Tremont Theater, 34. 
Trimountane, i. 
Trinity Church, 86. 
Trinity Place station, 81. 
Trowbridge, John T., home of, Arlington, 

153- 
Tufts College Medical and Dental School 

in Bjston,9t; buildings on College Hill, 

144, 145. 
Turner Street, Salem, 164. 
Twentieth Century Building, 90. 
Twentieth Century Club, 47. 
Twentieth Regiment, M.V.iM., 82. 
Twin churches, Milton, 133. 

Union Club, 45. 

Union Market station, 128. 

Union Stone, site, 56. 

Union Street, 55. 

Union Street, Salem, 161, 163. 

Unitarian Building, 45. 

Uni arian Church, Concord, 156 ; Lexing- 
ton, 155. 

United States Arsenal, Watertown. See 
Arsenal, Watertown. 

United States Naval Hospital. See Naval 
Hos (ital. 

United States Navy Yard. See Navy 
Yard, Chai-lestown. 

University Clubhouse, 80. 

Upham's Corner burying ground. Dor- 
chester, 97. 

Upsall, Nicholas, Red Lion Inn, 58 ; 
grave, 62. 



Ursuline Convent, bricks from, in Cathe- 
dral, 93. 

Vane, Sir Harry, site of house of, 20 ; 

statue, 82. 
Vassal, Col. John, 21, 107; Leonard, 136; 

William, 21. 
Vendome, Hotel, 80. 
Vergoose, Elizabeth, 29. 
Victoria, Hotel, 81. 
Victoria, Queen, portrait, 161. 
Vigilance Committee, 14. 
Villagi Green, Dedham, 138. 
Village Square, Brookline, iii, 113. 
Vinland, the Norse, 117. 
Vose mansion, Milton, 131, 137. 

Waban Hill, Newton, 116, 119. 

Waban, Lake, 121. 

Walden Pond, Concord, 158. 

Walker Building, 88. 

Walker, Henry Oliver, paintings by, 42. 

Walnut Street, 72. 

Walnut S.reet, Brookline, 112. 

Waltham, 3, 126-128. 

Wal ham Street, Lexington, 155. 

Waltham Watch Company, 127. 

Ward, J. A. A., sculpture by, 76. 

Ward, Jo?hua, house, Salem, 162. 

Ware and Van Brunt, architects, c;g. 

Warner, Olin L., statues by, 44, 78. 

Warren, Henry, 100. 

Warren, James, house in Watertown, 129. 

Warren, Dr. John, 49. 

Warren, Dr. John Collins, tablet erected 
by, 96, 112. 

Warren, Gen. Joseph, 13 ; site of house of, 
18; obsequies, 24; tombs, 27, 35, 51, 55, 
97 ; statue, 67 ; birthplace, 96, 129. 

Warren, William, comedian, 21. 

Warren Avenue Baptist Church, 94. 

Warren Bridge, 65. 

Warren Street, Brookline, 112. 

Washington Elm, Cambridge, 105. 

Washington, George, portrails, 12,46, 166; 
busts, 43, 61; statues, 41, 77; in Cam- 
bridge, 103, 106, 1C7; in Chelsea, 142; 
at Munroe's Tavern, Lexington, 154; in 
Salem, 162. 

Washington, Martha, 129. 

Washington Monument Association, 41. 

Washington, Mt., Chelsea, 142. 

Washington Park, Chelsea, 142. 

Washington Square, Salem, 164. 

Washington Street, 5, 16; in Newton, 118; 
Salem, 161, 165. 

Watch house, Plymouth, 170. 

Watertown, i, 126, 12S, 129. 

Waverley Oaks Reservation, 149. 

Way-Ireland house, Chelsea, 142. 

Wayside, The, Concord, 157. 

Webster, Daniel, 14, 33; statue of, 41; 
orations. Bunker Hill Monument, 67, 
98 ; Marshfield home and tomb, 16S. 



90 



INDEX 



Webster, Prof. John W., 74. 

Weld, William F., gift of, to Harvard, 103. 

Welles, Samuel, 121. 

Wellesley, 120-122. 

Wellesley College, 122. 

Wellington, Benj.imin, minuteman, 153. 

Wellington Hills, 3. 

Wendell, Judge Oliver, tomb of, 23; site 
of house, 25 

West Cambiidge, later Arlington, 152. 

West Cedar Street, 72. 

West Church, 74. 

West Lynn, 159. 

West New on, iiS. 

West Roxbury District, 3, g6, 97. 

West Roxbury Parkway, 147. 

Weston, 117. 

Weston Bridge, 116, 117. 

Westwood, 137. 

Whalley, regicide, 109. 

Wheelwright, John, 135. 

Wheelwri ht & Haven, architects, 91, 104. 

Whipp'-ng post, 4. 

Whipple, Edwin P., house of, 71. 

Whitefield, scene of open-air sermon by, 105. 

Whitney, Anne, statues by, 16, 79, 105 ; 
former home of, 70. 

Whitney, Henry M., estate, Brookline, 113. 

Whitney, Mrs. A. D. T., homes of, 70, 131. 

Whittemore, Samuel,- tablet, Arlington, 
152. 

Whittier, John G., home of, in Danvers, i6i. 

Willard, Josiah, tomb of, 26. 

Willard, Rev. Samuel, tomb of, 26. 

Willard, Solomon, architect, 18, 29, 66, 67. 

William H. Lincoln Schoolhouse, Brook- 
line, 112. 

Williams, Roger, house, Salem, 160, 165. 

Willow Avenue, West Somerville, tablet, 
144. 

Wilson, Henry, homestead, Natick, 123. 

Wilson, Rev. John, first minister, 5, 6. 

Winchester, 145. 



Winslow, Edward, "Careswell," 16S. 

Winslow, John, 23. 

Winslow, Rear Admiral John A., 13 ; 

house, 96; tomb, 97. 
Winslow family, tomb of, 23. 
Winter Hill, Somerville, 144. 
Winthrop, 139-141. 

Winthrop, Dcane, 139; house of, 140. 
Winthrop, Fitz John, 22. 
Win.hrop, Gov. John, first house, i, 6; 

second house, 50; statues, 18, ig, 108; 

tomb, 22, 44, 51, 66, 143 ; Ten Hills 

F'arm, 145. 
Wintlxrop, Jrhn, Jr., tomb of, 22. 
Winthrop, Prof. John, tomb of, 22 ; tele- 
scope used b;', 104. 
Winthrop, Margaret, 22. 
Winthrop, Robert C, 113. 
Winthrop, Wait Still, 22. 
Winthrop Shore Reservation, 149. 
Winthrop Square, Charlestown, 65. 
Wiswall's Pond, Newton, 126. 
Witch House, Salem, 165. 
Witchcraft, documents and relics, Salem, 

165; jail of 1692, Salem, 164. 
Wolcott, Gov. Roger, 43. 
Woman's Clubhouse, 90. 
Wood Island Park, 94, 147. 
Woodbridge, Benjamin, killed in duel, 7; 

grave of, 28, 32. 
Woods, Henry E., editor, 47. 
Woodward Tavern, Dedham, 131. 137. 
Woodworth, Samuel, scene of his " Old 

Oaken Bucket," 167. 
Worcester, Joseph E., in Cambridge, 107. 
Worthylake, George, 63. 
Wrieht Tavern, Concord, 156. 
Writing School, first. Free, iS ; first, 60. 

Yachting, off City Point, 95. 
Yeaman house, Chelsea, 142. 
Young Men's Christian Association, 81. 
Young Men's Christian Union, 35. 




PLATE I 



LJU UU ^LJ uu uu 

BERKELEY 




AROUND COPLEYl^QUAR^.'l / u. 



PLATE II. 




PLATE III. 




Sc3/e-J200 Ft to an inch. 
/ EXP LA NA T/ON. 

Steam Railroads 

E/ectric ,. . 
isc«^ Carns^e Roads == 



PLATE IV. 







1 










2 






3 






y // ^ 




~r 


/ 


A i 




^ W 


1 


/ \ ( ^ 




r 


/ J 


J 


V 


m 




\^ 


^ w?^!j 


Pir^ 




/ ^ 


'^ ^ 




N 


1/^ 




~Hv/ 




1 XTm 




) \y 


^ 




? 


la^lMTd 








V/ «ll>c 


A 


m 




I 


/ 


f 


1 




CummingsvilllV 


w 




\ l^^ 




^ 


=^=/ 






-^k/(/3 \» 


/ \n^;M^'. ^^; 




yt 


J 


5^ 


jrfcoln 


? 








mi 






B 


^^vA 




W/ 


r 


~Tv 






-flefghtr^^ 


\<^^^^^ 


M 


w 


4 


1 


1 "^^ 


Abridge 
)s}rvoir 






fj 


\ 


/7 


\^ 


>f^ 


9Ctville 








\f\ 


( 


f 


^ 


^"^ri 








N_ C?C---i\ ^^HV^ 




r=\ 1/ 


\ 


1 


* v^^ 


^l^^resDs 






^J^"^ 


^foburn hT6^|?4^^ 




%^^\^ 


fttfi— 


3j 


^^ 


^^C" 




S^^^^^a^^ 




.yM0i- _^[^^ 




?^^ 


X 


"^ 


^ 


^ 




^\_^^^ 








^^ 




/ 


=%^ 


^ 




.:i:^^^wt0 




_^5|.gf7~g5Btiaa 


^ 






1 


C 






1 




.^ 


^©ns^ 


v^^ 




^-^L^hest^ 










f 




"? /^ 




_^\^_^ Hifti?[^nds _^,^»»^*^ 






CQi^^ate 


/ 






"vUesle 




K 


1 


/OT^/a^^^ 


H 




LNo.Natick 


f 






^ifflW 




f 


^^^^ 


§ 




i«r- 


^^^Sli^^v^ 


^ 


Highia 


=^;g=^ ^ '^>- 




1 














* 










VJ( NjOoP-Tj^ 


i 


^M 


ffi.X 




L 


^^^^W-Rft 


^i^J 




■~W 










s. 


//j 






/Na 


^^^^ 




Uisiy Ih^B 


D 


/ Mor|^ille/( 1 


^ 


V 


^ 


4/^ 


^^ 




^S 




'x X 


/ 




^^ 


fe=^ 


^^ 


^ 




^^,iu^M^ \ 










^^ / 


r 




y^ 




■vsr^^^/^l ■ // 




V 5^^ 




/ 


/ 






f 


/^&ll'/1 




\0PrillEHT/lBD3} 


(^c ff//// 


^ 


SBsraM 


1 




Wq^twood 




:-f^^ /^ 



PLATE V 




Cliff ' Sfeam Railroads 

■'•^ / Electric " — 

Carnage Roads 




BAY 



\G^eatHead / 

'-^-fi^"*^^ ^^-'j// MASSACHUSJ^TTS 

/ Gftvetjior's Id. \) ^"""^ 

^* ^-Jv-J^ C?/'_y ■- — „, -.-'" 

;o1^fife#")/¥ir^''T INDEPENDENCE "'^^^_ 

ai" Long/" \ ^^ .__*ii'^::L 



ige Long/f \ ^>=»-v^^ 

>Dorchester-4 ^ "^ '^ \ 

Bay ^ ___JD "^ _^ 

ANDREwf/ ^^ 



¥ 
% 






^ Lower 



(X Pleasant % 



PLATE V I. 




PLATE VII. 




PLATE VIII. 




NEW ENGLAND 
STATES 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 078 083 2 t 



